You know that excitement you get when you score the best parking spot at the office? Well that's how we felt. There was no better place to put your boat in the whole island. I was very happy.
There was a park running along the quay to the left with beautiful grass and lots of trees. A dog friendly cafe sat close by on the waterfront with fresh croissants and excellent coffee. Roq was very happy.
There were gourmet shops, restaurants and even a warehouse type food store. Hideko was very happy.
Saint Barts is not cheap but it is a beautiful place. We looked at some of the houses for sale just for fun. I can tell you for certain that this place is over bought. The investment era is over, prices are in the lifestyle only zone.
They have an airport but it is situated so that planes have to nearly take the roofs off of cars on the road at the top of the hill as they dive bomb their way down the hill side to land and stop before they bob into the lagoon at the end of the short run way.
Kelp Fiction had a rolly night in the bay and moved into the harbor today. We all went out to a great cafe for a nice dinner of steak frites. We were supposed to leave today but the two crews were unanimous in the decision to stay a few days.
06/12/2007, Saint Barts
We got up at 7 to get the boat ready. It was such a beautiful anchorage we hated to leave but by 9 Kelp Fiction was coming around Saint Martin and it was time to head out. Cindy had done an amazing job sewing up the bimini, it looked like new. When we inquired Fred said that they didn't go ashore for dinner. Sure Fred.
We had a nice couple/three hour sail over to Gustavia in Saint Barts. I always like to anchor in the more remote spots but between the 5 of us we decided to move straight into Gustavia as we needed to get south. We passed the island Ill Fourchue and Anse De Colombier (a bay on the northwest side of Saint Barts) and both looked lovely.
As we came into Gustavia Bay we noticed a whole much of kids racing small sailboats. Some of them were real hams and spent more time entertaining us than sailing. We also saw a turtle swimming around the anchorage which is always a good sign.
The anchorage in the fairly open bay outside of Gustavia is pretty crowded. A lot of the boats look like they are rooted for the summer. After surveying the place we decided that the north side of the bay looked least crowded and swelly. Traveling with friends on a mono gets you a lot more tuned into the swell in a place.
As we drove through the north side of the anchorage I noticed that the place was pretty tightly packed with mooring balls. I didn't really know what the mooring ball rules were here as the cruising guide didn't say much about it. I noticed an odd hole in the middle of the mooring field. After a quick pass Hideko and I decided to try to fit in.
We anchored and set on a short scope. Even snugged up we were probably liable to get a bit close to some of the other boats if the wind shifted greatly. No predicted but you never know. I jumped in to look at things underwater.
Ah ha! No wonder there was a hole in this exact spot. Right off our bow was a beautiful, perfect mooring. It had a cracked ball full of water sitting on the bottom but otherwise idyllic. I hauled the mooring up and Hideko tied us off. Now we were really set! It would have been a hassle to bring the anchor up at this point so we just left it down as it would be inoperative for our stay.
Fred, Cindy and Jill came along right about then. I love watching Fred motor through an anchorage. The people who owned Kelp Fiction prior to Fred and Cindy we named the "Aets". The Aets made a whole in the top of the Amel dodger to allow the helmsman to stand up and see out. Fred refers to this addition as the Aets Hole. Watching him cruise by with his head sticking out of it always makes me smile. Fred anchored on the north side but a ways out.
As Kelp Fiction got settled Hideko and I hopped in the dinghy and headed in to town to clear in. The inner Gustavia harbor is immaculate. It is by far the cleanest port I have found in the Caribbean. There are large walls set up for stern to docking all around the harbor and the center is full of tightly spaced moorings that boats tie up to bow and stern. The effect is something like a parking lot at a shopping mall, but more, say, nautical. Cute little shops and bistros line the quay and the hills above. It is picturesque to say the least.
We cleared in and the staff were very professional and courteous. When I asked if we could come into the harbor they said sure and told us to tie up along side right up front. Wow. During high season there would be a row of 150 footers waiting to go stern to in that much space. As much as I hated to give up our nifty re-floated mooring spot we couldn't pass the offer up. We zipped back to the big boat and moved into Saint Barts.
It had to happen sooner or later. For the first time ever Swingin' on a Star did not end up where we planned at the beginning of the voyage.
We left Marigot Bay, Saint Martin with Kelp Fiction II at around noon. As both boats were coming around the north tip of Saint Martin some nasty clouds started moving in. Before you know it, wham, 35 knots on the nose and 4 knots SOG. Ugly.
As we approached the clouds I put a reef in the main. Once things heated up to full blast we decided that lass sail was called for. It was getting pretty bumpy as we rolled the jib up to the reef two mark. Next, to my great pleasure, I got to go forward to put the second reef in the main. Ug. Wet? Very. Windy? Like really windy.
I jacked in and went forward to battle with the big sail. I asked Hideko to to head up, which was a challenge over all of the wind noise. She couldn't point too high though or the jib would flog to shreds. Not high enough and I would have to drag the main into the sail bag. I let off on the halyard and was happy to only have to climb up on the boom once to pull the main neatly to reef two.
My next prayer was that the reef ring would be within reach of the clip. It wasn't of course. That only happens in fair weather. I muscled it over by hand though without using a come along on the winch so I got things clipped in pretty quick. The reefing winch we added in Saint Martin came in very handy as I cranked the leech line in tight and threw the jammer.
I am now on a mission. All controls in the cockpit or bust. Perhaps Trinidad...
Meanwhile KFII was unhappy. Fred came on the VHF and told me that their bimini had started to rip. After some though they decided to turn around and head for Grand Case. Likely excuse, Grand Case is known as the culinary center of the Caribbean.
Anyway we weren't going anywhere without our friends so we decided to let the boom out and head back downwind to Tintamarre which was just aft of the beam a couple miles off. The water near shore was almost flat and the wind was knocked down to the high 20s so we decided to set up shop.
What a beautiful island. We anchored in a little harbor on the western beach. The place reminded me of Big Sand Cay in Turks and Caicos. Not as remote and not as much sand but still a very beautiful place.
I snorkeled a bit to check out the anchor in case any whoppers like the squall that had just blown by came in the night. All was well and the water was a wonderful clear blue. We had just bought an Olympus Stylus 770SW, which in many ways is just a normal digital camera. The exception is that it is water proof down to 30 feet! It is very cool. I brought it with me and took a picture of our anchor so Hideko could sleep well too.
06/10/2007, French Saint Martin
We left the FKG dock at 7:45 this morning so that we could make it to the French side of the lagoon in time for the 9AM bridge opening. Crossing the lagoon was dicey. There are some very shallow spots over on the French side near the channel markers that lead to the bridge. When we got close Fred met us in his dinghy.
The bad news was the bridge just looked too skinny for my comfort and they didn't seem to be opening anyway. So much for the short cut. We told Fred we were just going to go out the Dutch side so he headed back to Marigot Bay.
We made it back in time for the 9:30 Simpson Bay Bridge opening. There was quite a procession of boats waiting to exit.
We had a nice sail part of the way around the island and motored the rest of the way in. Marigot Bay is a beautiful anchorage. The french town looks as charming as any you might find in Europe and the bay is well protected, looking out onto Anguilla a few miles away.
We anchored up and dinghied over to visit with Kelp Fiction and go swimming (finally!). Later on we went to a really neat Vietnamese restaurant in Marigot. Great food, wonderful ambiance and fantastic hostess!
06/09/2007, Saint Martin Lagoon
Well it has been great getting stuff done on the boat. A short walk to Island Water World one way and Budget Marine the other, FKG and Electec right at the end of the dock and virtually everything else a short dinghy ride away in a protected lagoon.
It is time to head south however. There's dense vegetation growing on my waterline (and I'm not diving in here to work on it), beautiful anchorages are calling, I want to play with the new toys and most of all the canes are a brewin'.
Also the crime rate seems to be fairly high here. We have a dog aboard which, knock on wood, pretty much makes us immune to theft. Unfortunately we have logged many boat break ins in the last 2 weeks and one dinghy theft. No worse than Marina Del Rey I suppose but as the boat density decreases the percentage exposure of the remaining targets seems to be getting uncomfortable. Comes with the developed territory I guess.
We freaked out at the last minute and had the local mattress factory build us a custom mattress for our cabin. I was on the fence about our cushion mattress. It is not bad but it is not a mattress. These days you can get a crazy comfortable pillow top monster mattress in the US if you are willing to shell out for it. This place was making what seemed like good mattresses but I don't think they had access to the materials you find back in the states. I got the top of the line and custom sized it only ran $625 delivered! We're likin' it so far but time will tell it it holds up in a marine environment.
06/08/2007, FKG Dock
AIS rules. AIS is the Automated Information System required on most commercial vessels and large pleasure boats. Cruising boats can get a receiver and easily pick up this information for display or chart plotter integration.
An AIS transmitter broadcasts a vessel's name, position, heading, speed, destination, ETA, mode of propulsion, length, beam, draft, MMSI and more over VHF. A well placed antenna will pick up shipping traffic 15 to 20 miles off. Because the system provides location, course over ground and speed over ground you can very accurately predict a collision danger.
I wanted to install this in Fort Lauderdale but the unit I ordered (Sitex) didn't arrive in time. It has been in my project box for a while now. Our friends on Rosario have AIS running and I was so jealous when we discussed it with them in the Bahamas. David said that one of his favorite things about AIS was that he could hail the other vessel by name. Getting on 16 and hailing "shipping traffic at lat/long" is likely to turn up dead air. Hailing "Andrea Star", gets their attention (perhaps wondering who is close enough to read the name on the bow).
I order the Sitex unit because that was what Raymarine used in their demo booth at the '06 Miami boat show (they now have their own unit). You can do a quick and dirty install but if you go by the book it is a fair amount of work. The AIS receiver needs its own antenna. If you hook it up to your VHF every time you transmit you blast the AIS, possibly loosing data, possibly damaging the AIS box. I decided to put the antenna on the port side of the traveler arch rather than opening the can of worms that installing it at the top of the mast (the optimal place) would have been.
I had my SSB and VHF hooked up to the E120 chart plotter NEMA port for position data and DSC info. They run at 19,200 though and the AIS can output a lot of data in a busy port and prefers 384,000. This means you need to get a NEMA to SeaTalk bridge to support the radios so that you can crank up the port speed on the NEMA to 384,000. Check. Once everything is installed you need to make sure that you have a newish version of the E120 software running.
Our setup is running and it is fantastic. I wish we had it crossing the Gulf Stream and the windward passage. The E120 has a bug causing it to alarm every time you get into a situation where there are no targets. This is annoying but hopefully a fix is on the way.
Two things used to require a bit to much exertion on our boat. Raising the main (check) and bringing the dink aboard.
Getting our Walker Bay onto the aft deck used to require manually lifting the 8 HP off of the dinghy transom and loading it into the lazarette or stowing it on the rail of the big boat. Not easy on the joints for us old folks.
We had originally tried to hoist the dink with the retractable davits. It worked fine but our davit retraction line doesn't run too fair through the arch and makes it pretty impossible to lift much more than the Walker Bay empty. Putting the dink away turned into quite a chore. Take the motor off and put it away, clip in the dink, raise it up, and strap it down. My strap down system involved looping some nylon strapping around the swim platform pipe and other mumbo jump that took a fair amount of time to adjust.
We have revolutionized this whole mess. FKG set us up with a nice Lewmar 4 part block and tackle and we have welded eyes onto the swim platform pipe and the davit verticals near the bottom.
We can now tilt up the outboard on Little Star, haul it up on the block and tackle rig, bring the davit in, and drop it on the chocks. To strap it down I just clip two come alongs to the four hard points and ratchet them down. Awesome.
The only thing I'd do different is that I would get blocks with jammers (I still may). FKG welded some nice cleats on the davit so we cleat off the lines once the dink is in the air. This is trickier than it sounds on the heavy end. Jammers would let you just heave and go.
P.S. Easy dingy stowage has been a snap for us since the upgrade. We are in Saint Lucia now and even in anchorages where we get in at sunset and leave a dawn we have no second thoughts about dropping the dinghy for a quick ashore. I also don't have to stow the gas tank or unlock the outboard security setup. We drop it in the water and it's ready to go.