06/24/2007, The Exclusion Zone
It was a cloudy morning and the weather forecast made a couple of nights in Montserrat look like a good idea prior to making the crossing to Guadalupe. We all wanted to see the island so it was just as well.
Both Kelp Fiction II and our boat were still flying the yellow flag so we set out to the main quay to clear in as the first order of business. Apart from the concrete quay and the yard, the port consists of a warehouse and a security trailer. We arrived just as the customs officer got in and cleared in with no hassle. Montserrat doesn't get a lot of visitors and the officer was pleased that his signature was going on a Japanese passport.
A taxi/tour guide had hailed us on the VHF when we arrived and he was waiting for us at the gate. We piled in the van and set off for a day of exploring. There's not much to Montserrat these days. Most of the folks are very nice but the population is only about 15,000. Little Bay is scheduled to be the new capital but development is moving slowly for justifiable reasons. The main settlement has relocated to an area near the top of the hills in the northern part of the island. Great views but not a lot of flat land to work with.
There had previously been a ferry that brought tourists a couple of times a week to Montserrat from the more prosperous Antigua. Montserrat is a dependent territory of the UK. Given the choice of the subsidized ferry or an airport, the government of Montserrat shut down the ferry and built an airport. It is a nice airport in the hills near the settlement but not capable of handling more than a 16 seater. Due to the expense of flying in, a lot fewer folks visit the island now.
If you look at a guide to the Caribbean pre the 1997 eruption, Montserrat is heralded as the Emerald of the Caribbean. Pictures of the beautiful town of Plymouth and the lovely harbor of Road Bay impress. Unfortunately all of the areas where people previously lived, worked and played are restricted now. Much, including Plymouth and the old airport, is now wiped out, buried in ash and stone. You can only go in if you need to retrieve something from your former business or residence and then only with a police escort. Eruptions of pyroclastic flow take only 90 seconds to reach the ocean and the poisonous fumes kill instantly.
We stopped by a tourist outpost that was being built on the west side of the island. It is at the edge of the restricted zone and offers panoramic views of the desolation around the old airport. You can clearly see how the runway disappears under several feet of rock and ash. We stopped at the observatory on the west side of the island as well. It was closed but it is situated so that you can see the entire volcano and some of the primary run off zones. The beach near the old harbor is about 100 yards farther out into the ocean now.
The volcano is massive and dominates the horizon. You can only rarely see the top as it is typically enshrouded in steam and clouds. Man is no match for the forces of nature. All we can do is try to predict Mother Nature's actions and get out of the way accordingly. You can discover more at the Montserrat Observatory web site here: http://www.mvo.ms/
06/23/2007, Little Bay
Saint Kitts is a nice place, but unfortunately for us we spent all of our time in a concrete marina (thanks to me and the flu, or whatever it was). The perfect anchorage may lie just down the coast, who knows. To get perfect anchorage status for us the anchorage must be a protected anchorage with not too many boats, it has to have inviting "jump in" water, a nice beach and good snorkeling/diving/fishing near by, and finally, a waterside café with fresh bread and WIFI, serving three meals a day. Not too much to ask? So far we have found pieces but not the whole place.
So today we're off to Montserrat. The Saint Kitts Port Authority referred to the island as Monster Rat. Cute. I guess a little inter island humor should be expected seeing as how Nevitians (those on Nevis) and Kittitians (those on Saint Kitts) have quite a rivalry going and they are from the same country. Nevis tries to succeed every once in a while but from what I hear they don't want to take their part of the national debt with them when they go so things are at a general impasse.
The weather has been tough for our entire stay in Saint Kitts and today is not really much different. Twenty knot winds and pretty good sized seas. We sailed south along Saint Kitts and then along the narrows between Saint Kitts and Nevis. The narrows between the two islands are famous for being a tricky place to navigate with strong currents and lots of rocks.
As we sailed along the coast of Nevis the wind came around and we either needed to tack our way up to Montserrat or motor sail. So motorsail it was.
About half way across the channel between Montserrat and Nevis is an Island called Redonda. It is basically a huge, inhospitable looking, rock. While it formally belongs to Montserrat no one really goes there except the occasional dive boat. At one point some interesting folk from Antigua claimed the rock and renamed it the Kingdom of Redonda. Apparently the king comes by now and again to climb to the top of his kingdom and then goes home to Antigua.
As we approached Montserrat it materialized out of the clouds and haze like an apparition. This is the one island in the Caribbean I have wanted to see more than all others. The volcano erupted as recently as this last winter, spewing ash into the sky that dusted our boat as we were crossing the south coast of Puerto Rico. It is an intriguing island, with the smallest population of any nation in the Caribbean at 5,000.
The entire southern part of the island has been wiped out or marked off limits. This is sad because Montserrat used to be known as the emerald of the Caribbean, and the area in the south was where the main port and all of the larger settlements were located. The only port of entry now is Little Bay. I assure you that it is a little Bay.
When we arrived around three in the afternoon the Bay had about four or five other boats anchored and there was precious little room for too many more without crowding. We anchored and lowered the dinghy to see about clearing in. In the French islands if customs is closed, no big deal, grab a bite at a café, shop a bit, just make sure that you clear in at the first opportunity. The British islands tend to be a little more uptight. I walked up the quay and approached the only person in view on the entire island. He had on a uniform and was tending a shack just inside the large chain link and barbed wire fence.
I asked him if we could clear in and he was very friendly. It was Saturday at four in the afternoon so no one was handy. He made a few calls but couldn't raise anyone. I said thanks and that we would come back in the morning first thing. Then I asked if it would be ok for us to go ashore to grab a bite to eat. A cloud passed over head. No, you must stay on your boat, was the response. Check.
So Hideko, Roq and I marveled at the intriguing island from the bay as we welcomed Kelp Fiction into the anchorage.
06/22/2007, Saint Kitts
We talked about leaving today but giving Randy, and the weather, one more day to get better seemed like a good idea. I went to the marina office to close out our bill and on the way picked up Chinese takeout for dinner. Yum.
(photo looking south over the apex of the Saint Kitts hour glass toward Nevis)
06/21/2007, Port Zante
Today Randy finally started to feel better. Kelp Fiction kept checking in to see if Randy was Ok. They didn't need to wait for us but they did. Good friends. Cindy even made Randy some chicken soup.
We were all getting antsy to move south. We were three weeks into hurricane season and still pretty far north. Our insurance requires us to be south of 12 degrees north by the first of July which is right around the corner
(This photo shows the botanical gardens on Saint Kitts)
Today we are going to the doctor. The dock master told me that medical services at the hospital are free of charge. Saint Kitts has socialized medicine and medical services are fairly inexpensive throughout the country. I was going to take Randy to a doctor on call at the drug store but the doctors were there only at night. So the hospital it was.
We had Junie, the same taxi driver who took us on the tour, pick us up at the boat. Junie told us to go to the emergency room at the hospital for faster service. That saved us about two hours. We were still there five hours.
The doctor gave Randy an IV to hydrate him. Randy didn't really want an IV but was too tired to fight. The first nurse stabbed around for a few minutes trying to find the vein and then finally gave up and started over. Not pretty. Randy almost threw up during the process.
While I was waiting for Randy's tests to come back a medical school intern from India came to talk to me. She thought I was a Chinese girl that she knew. It was interesting to know that the Saint Kitts Medical School has many international students, mainly from India. It just so happened that the international students were having a tour of the hospital. The hospital was pretty crowded.
Junie came by a few times to see if we were ready to leave but IVs take a while to soak in. When the tests finally came back and the IV was done the prognosis was that Randy had the flu. We picked up some more vitamins and had Junie take us back home.
(This photo show the view from the British Fort north to Statia, aka. Saint Eustatia)
06/19/2007, Saint Kitts
Over the counter drugs work sometimes but Randy was still running a fever this morning. I suggested seeing a doctor but because Randy hates going to the doctor (and generally doesn't) I made a deal with him. High fever for three days straight and you go to the doctor.
This picture is of Black Rocks, an eroded set of volcanic rocks on the northeast coast of Saint Kitts.
06/18/2007, Port Zante Marina
When I woke up this morning Randy asked me to check his temperature. For the first time I can remember he had a high fever, 103 degrees! Before we started cruising I stocked up on many over the counter medicines and one of them was a fever reducer. Although Randy didn't have an appetite I gave him a piece of bread and made him take the medicine (he hates to take medicine). He spent all day sleeping and I felt helpless not being able to make him feel better.
What do you do when your husband is sick? Go shopping! Well not for shoes but to get better medicine and healthy groceries. Cindy, Jill and I went to explore Basseterre and look for a drug store. Monday was very lively in the main circuit. We were stopped by many fruit sellers on the street. We paused at a place that sold unfamiliar fruits where Cindy bought Star Fruit and Sour Apples. We have since come to love Soursop and Sour Oranges (like an orange crossed with a lemon) as well. Nothing better than Soursop juice.
After picking up some medicine at the drug store, which was well stocked, and shopping at the market, I went back to the marina to check up on my sick husband. His favorite meal when he's sick is a Grilled Cheese Sandwich and Tomato Soup, not the most nutritious cuisine. So even though I would have preferred to cook something more nutritious, I made him a nice Grilled Cheese to go with Alias.
(This photo shows the view from the Plantation north to Saint Eustatia)