After being in Grenada for three weeks we decided that it was time to see the island. Liz on Aratinga organizes trips to the Friday Fish Fry in Gouyave and also sets up island tours. I have never met Liz but she is very kind in helping out the visiting cruisers through the Grenada Cruisers Net (VHF68 M-S at 7:30AM).
We were joined by two other couples and a single hander. One couple from England on Turtle, the single hander from Saint Thomas USVI, and the other couple, circumnavigators Marvin and Ann, from Saint John USVI. Marvin and Ann took off for the South Pacific from the west coast of the US in a home made trimaran in the 60s! I asked Marvin a lot of questions about his travels. Things were very different then. Have compass and sextant will travel. No one knew about storm season or El Niņo, and GPS, satellite weather and the rest were a long way off. Voyaging to distant lands took an awful lot of courage in those days.
Our tour guide and driver was Chris, apparently filling in for the usual guy who was on vacation. We visited the rain forest in the national park and saw some of the monkeys there along with vistas of the volcanic crater lake and the Atlantic Coastline.
Our next stop was the Rivers Rum distillery which I highly recommend. The distillery operates in exactly the same fashion as it did decades ago. The Rum is made from sugar cane grown locally and crushed by a water wheel driven mill. The initial boilers are heated by bagas (the dried cane husks) and a bit of wood or other fuel. The bagas is heaped into huge piles all over the place. Some of it is tilled back under as mulch. The boiled cane juice is enriched with molasses if need be and pumped into concrete vats (the old wood vats became too expensive to maintain) and allowed to ferment. No yeast is added, they simply allow the airborne yeast (and whatever else is in the vicinity) to take hold and do its thing. After eight days of fermenting the fermented cane juice is distilled using three wood fired boilers. The resulting Rum is tested for specific gravity and if it is found to contain less than 75% alcohol it goes back for another round of distillation. Apparently the 75% stuff is illegal to take on a flight so they make a weaker 68% variety to just squeak under the aviation limits. The vintage process is amazing to watch but I would not want to have to imbibe any large quantity of the results.
We also stopped by the Nutmeg co-op. There are several co-ops of this sort on the island. The one we visited employed eight people. Prior to hurricane Ivan's devastation the facility employed 140 individuals. The country is at 10% of its previous production yet they still rate third in the world.
A high priority stop for the chocolate lovers was the Cocoa plantation. The Grenada Chocolate Company is no longer open for tours but the plantation provides a full perspective of the process from pods on the tree through to the production of chocolate and Coco Tea (a spicy Granadian Hot Chocolate).
We had lunch at a nice little place called Good Food in Grenville. They happened to have Oil Down, the national Grenadian dish, and it was quite tasty. Oil Down is hard to come by because, as I understand it, it is typically made at home and takes a fair amount of effort.
The balance of the trip included seeing various sights and stopping at vista points along the way. Grenada is a lovely island and the people are very kind and friendly. Our day long tour was well worth the time spent.
08/22/2007, Martin's Marina
We received our mail today. Saint Brendan's Isle is fantastic, no junk mail, all packaging broken down to make bulk shipping more efficient, and flawless service. Our mail arrived in Saint Georges in only two days. It took another two days to actually get it. I used an agent this time which cost about $50 US (in addition to the $50 US I had to pay Grenada). Not bad considering the amount of stuff we received.
We pretty much buy everything on line so there can be a lot of mail. We rarely get any useful service from stores or dealers because we leave the neighborhood shortly after we arrive in almost all cases. If an outfit knows you can't walk into the store they will often ignore you when you email or call for help. For instance, we have some badly rusted links in the new anchor chain we bought from Ropes Inc. in Fort Lauderdale. I emailed Jack, the principal as I understand it, and he asked me to bring it in. I told him that I was in Grenada and heading through the canal. After that, no more responses. This type of thing is fairly common and even if someone wants to help it may be impossible for you to arrange to get the thing that needs service to them or vice versa. For this reason we have decided that we are much better off buying things at the cheapest possible price from online sources. Online outlets tend to provide no service, but seeing as how we rarely get useful service anyway, we might as well save on the purchase.
One of the items we received in our 2 foot cube of mail was the Raymarine Smart Controller, purchased at Defender.com. It is basically a little sea talk RF remote. The transceiver plugs into a sea talk port on your main system and the remote plugs into a charger. Once charged you can walk anywhere on the boat and use the remote to control the autopilot but you can also set custom alarms, check wind speed and direction, view the GPS position, and just about anything else. I am particularly happy to have this access at the nav station and in our cabin. I have Raytech v6 on the nav computer but sometimes it is a bit much to fire up the entire computer for a simple navigational task. Now I can just glance at the remote. We also have no instruments in our cabin. With the remote I can be snug in bed and still have the remote right next to me with various anchor alarms and what not enabled.
08/21/2007, Martin's Marina
Martin's Marina is a small marina with one main dock, tees on both ends and a connector dock at midpoint leading ashore. They have fuel, water and 50Hz power but that's about it. The little pub has beer and rum and some snacks but nothing you could call an actual meal. The benefit of this setup is that within a week you know everyone on the dock.
Odyssey is a beautiful traditional cutter with a couple working in construction management. Dickels is a 53 foot Hallberg Rassy that the Dutch owner leaves here while abroad. Kelp Fiction, El Pirata, Blue Star, Monaco and an empty Leopard completes the list.
Monaco is a 130 foot motor yacht with a crew of seven. Jose, the Mate, and I have had a lot of great chats on the dock so we decided to get together for drinks tonight. Jose and his wife Louise, Monaco's stewardess, came over to Swingin' on a Star for a great evening of mixing. Jose was born in Uruguay and grew up in Mallorca. He was a chef on yachts in the Mediterranean for a while and then became a First Mate, traveling the Caribbean. Louise was born in Australia and has also spent quite a bit of time in exotic locals working on yachts. Wonderful folks with amazing travels and stories.
Meeting folks like this is certainly the best thing about cruising. We will be leaving Martin's Marina soon for new places and Jose and Louise will be retiring to tour America and start a family in Mallorca. We hope to see them again when we get to the Mediterranean.
08/20/2007, Swingin' on a Star
I went to make a nice peanut butter and jelly sandwich today and realized that we had run out of sandwich bread. Hideko to the rescue. In a matter of hours Hideko and mixed, beat up, proofed and what ever other violence you need to do to produce a fantastic loaf of sandwich bread. She had baked a lot of great baguettes over the last few months but this was the first time that she had come to the rescue of the peanut butter and jelly cause.
I spent the rest of the day preparing plans for our South Pacific Crossing. Hideko and I have been totally focused on getting far enough south to be out of the hurricane belt and in the insurance zone since the British Virgin Islands. Once here we began to realize that it won't be long before the longest crossing in our circumnavigation will be before us.
We have done a fair bit of pre-planning for the crossing of course. That said it is amazing how much work you really need to do to properly vet a real solid crossing plan. Jimmy Cornel's World Cruising Routes is always a good place to start planning any route. From Jimmy's work you can get the best routes and weather windows. This is really just the start though.
It has been about a weeks worth of work to get all of the data together to field our first draft of a plan for the South Pacific Crossing. We have decided that we would like to have six aboard for the trip. This means soliciting participation from four sailing friends. Here's the draft we're working with:
While route and timing specifics can not be determined precisely at this point, a general framework is in place targeting the Spring of 2008 using a well defined route from Colon Panama to French Polynesia. A crew commitment of two months would involve transit from Panama City, Panama to Papeete, Tahiti. A three month commitment would allow for transit from Colon through the canal and throughout the length of French Polynesia, perhaps returning from Bora Bora. A one month commitment risks becoming overdue on the return side but could be possible for crew wanting to make the ocean crossing only. Crew preferences will weigh heavily on the specific anchorages and durations of stay.
The tropical storm season in the Northern seas begins in June. The tropical storm season in the Southern seas ends in March. Our transit targets the month of April in an attempt to acquire the best possible conditions for the crossing.
Week 1: Second Week of March - Cristobal, Panama/Canal Preparations
Week 2: Third Week of March - Panama City/Canal Transit
Week 3: Fourth Week of March - Las Perlas Islands/Crew Shake Down
Week 4: First Week of April - North Pacific Crossing
Week 5: Second Week of April - Galapagos
Week 6: Third Week of April - South Pacific Crossing Week I
Week 7: Fourth Week of April - South Pacific Crossing Week II
Week 8: First Week of May - South Pacific Crossing Week III
Week 9: Second Week of May -The Marquesas
Week 10: Third Week of May -The Tuamotus
Week 11: Fourth Week of May -The Eastern Society Islands
Week 12+: June -The Western Society Islands and onward
Our goal is to make this crossing with 6 crew and a dog aboard. We have three empty cabins and couples are certainly welcome. Minimum crew for the crossing will be three and maximum will be eight. Crew will be responsible for a watch each day while in transit and will also share in the operational responsibilities of the boat. The watch plan with 6 crew would involve 2 hours on and 2 hours stand by, followed by 2 hours on and 2 hours standby. This puts each member of the crew at the helm for 4 hours a day and standing ready to assist for 4 hours a day with 16 hours off. Cooking, cleaning and maintenance tasks will also be shared amongst the crew.
08/19/2007, Southwest coast
Fred has been making us awesome espresso almost every morning so I though I would try to return the favor today. I made a Hollandaise sauce, the way my Dad taught me, and poached up some eggs for Eggs Benedict. Cindy has an overt dislike for anything associated with eggs so it was breakfast for three. Fred brought the coffee and ate at our boat, perhaps because Cindy wouldn't let him aboard with a plate full of eggs in an egg sauce.
Jay and Tami on Blue Star had rented a car so we all hopped a ride with them over to Aquarium on the West coast for lunch. The Aquarium restaurant is a really fun spot with good music and a great beach. We had great food out on the patio and got in a swim or two as well. We watched a beautiful sun set over the Caribbean sea from our table prior to heading home.
08/18/2007, Mount Harman Bay
We met Jay and Tami from Blue Star, the last Lagoon 570, today. We first talked to Jay in Saint Lucia. Fred and I were tooling around and we stopped to say hi, particularly because I noticed that Jay's boat didn't have the steering out on the quarter like all of the other big Lagoons. I'm not a fan of being exposed out at the corner of the boat, particularly in trying conditions when you don't feel comfortable leaving everything up to the autopilot. Jay had highly customized his boat, to the point of having the helm moved to the bulk head.
We saw them prior to that in the anchorage in Dominica. We had a longer chat today and I found out that they had just bought property in Dominica to build their dream house on. Not a bad plan. Dominica is a beautiful island and certainly one of the less traveled in the Caribbean.
Blue Star came to Port Egmont from Dominica to get out of the possible path of Dean two days ago. Once Dean had moved on they came into Mount Hartman to relax and do some work on their boat. Jay was tirelessly working above and below deck and up in the rigging. Jay was not very happy with his boat from the factory and had done a lot of fairly expensive work to get it the way he wanted it.
08/17/2007, Martin's Marina
We stayed around the boat all day today just to be safe. Dean was wracking Martinique this morning but we saw little of his fury. The wind came around all the way to the South which was interesting. The southern harbors of Grenada are all open to the south with the exception of a few which are deep enough that they bend around providing 360 degree protection. Most also have reefs breaking up the entrance.
A large (I'm guessing 70 foot) Swan came in today from Prickly Bay. The captain said things were getting untenable on the dock there. Both Prickly and Hartman are open to the wind from the south but Hartman has a reef across the entire entrance. We definitely saw some chop coming in at Hartman but nothing concerning. It was overcast and we had a good sea running from the south but the wind never got over 15 knots in the harbor.
I was woken up at 2AM with the wind howling in the rigging and the boat bucking gently on her tethers. I got up to look around and noticed the wind sustaining speeds of over 30 knots. I got a drink and waited to see if things were going to get any more interesting. The rain was hammering down on the deck for a good hour but then things settled. That was it. One weak squall and Dean was off to the Central Caribbean.