SailBlogs
Bookmark and Share
Swingin' on a Star
Ship's log for the circumnavigating Saint Francis 50 catamaran, "Swingin on a Star".
Hammock Day
Randy
09/09/2007, Clifton Harbor

A cool breeze ran late into the morning today. We made good use of it by sleeping in. I declared the day "Hammock Day" shortly after getting up. Hammock Day is a day where no one asks anyone else to do anything and everyone can do anything they want (as long as it doesn't involve asking someone else to do something). This generally eliminates any sort of organized activities and usually produces a lot of reading in the hammock. Sometimes an ambitious project begins, but not usually.

A big (wide and long) tropical wave is supposed to arrive tonight with a bit of rain, possibly squalling in and out over the next day and a half. The wind was coming northeast in the late afternoon and I fully expected to wake up facing southeast.

We moved the boat deeper into the anchorage to cut down on the potential swell. Note the position. This is the place you want to be in Clifton Harbor. You're close to the beach, you have beautiful views all the way around, it is a flat spot in what can otherwise be a bit of a rolly harbor, no dinghies have any reason to zip by your bow, and it is a short trip through settled water to the town dinghy docks. There are reefs all around this little hole but the bottom is sand and it is 10 feet or more throughout. Set up to the east with 75 feet of chain and you'll be good for anything except a west wind or a southern swell. The only draw back is that the reef break brings in a light but steady flow of sea grass bits and plant parts floating on top of the crystal clear water.

Hideko ran some errands in town and I did my duty, reading in the bow hammock. Swinging in the breeze and looking out over the blue water with one foot dragging in the current, I had to pinch myself a few times.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Star Trek Marathon
Randy
09/08/2007, Clifton Harbor

Star Trek Marathon. Nuf said. The Original Series is in the bag and we are charging forward in to the movies. Every once in a while I look out the window and think how much I love the fact that we live here. I can watch Star Trek without feeling like I need to run outside and jump in the ocean because we're always on the ocean, every day as beautiful as the last.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Recoup
Randy
09/07/2007, Union Island

We love entertaining friends. I think Hideko and I would be great at running a charter yacht. The only problem would be that if it was our boat, we'd toss the average charter client overboard in the first five minutes.

We had a great time with our friends aboard. Having guests sort of drives you to do fun stuff. There's nothing better than sharing great experiences and places with friends. Also when friends are aboard you sort of put all of the projects and chores on the back burner.

So back to the front burner. Today was boat clean up day.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Goodbye
Randy
09/06/2007, Union Island

All too soon it was time for Razmig and Atsuko to get back to LA. We dinghied ashore for breakfast at Bougainvillea before they caught their flight. Bougainvillea is a tourist hangout which means that the prices are high by island standards. They do a nice job of it though and served great fruit, all you can drink coffee and juice, all you can eat toast and jam, as well as the standard bacon and eggs. We've been getting a great lunch for $5US so you still feel robbed when you pay $25.

Razmig and I stopped by the airport to clear them off of the boat papers and onto their flight on the way to breakfast. The best round trip deals to the southern Caribbean always seem to be through Barbados. It worked out well this time because you can get to Barbados from everywhere. Razmig and Atsuko hopped over to Grenada from Barbados and back from Union. The inter island flights can be pricey, however.

We sadly saw Razmig and Atsuko off at the airport. The guy at the desk let us just walk right through security with them. I don't even think the metal detector was working. We waved as long as we could see their plane.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Tobago Cays
Randy
09/05/2007, Tobago Cays

This was Atsuko and Razmig's last day with us and we had saved the best. Everyone was up early so we weighed anchor and headed out to the Tobago Cays. We were anchored in front of Jamesby, the southernmost of the four main islands, by 9:30. The Tobago Cays are simply idyllic. When you think of inviting water and beautiful deserted islands, this is what you see.

It can get crowded here but the park was blissfully empty. Our early arrival had something to do with it but it was also part of our payback for skipping around the storms during hurricane season.

Everyone enjoyed snorkeling and exploring Jamesby. Somehow I ended up scrubbing the waterline for a bit. When I climbed back aboard I was rewarded by fresh pizza. Hideko had made pizza dough from scratch and whipped up some fantastic za.

In the afternoon we moved over to Baradel (a whopping quarter mile away). There's a turtle sanctuary marked by a buoyed line around the south side of the island. There are turtles galore here. Everyone had a great snorkel with the turtles and it was hard to keep track of how many we all saw. Many of the local folks in the Caribbean eat sea turtles and they are typically a bit shy when it comes to humans in the water. They are protected in the park however and seem to know it, more or less ignoring the large mammals with bright colored fins careening about.

The sun was getting low in the sky and I had never sailed out the south exit of the reefs surrounding the Cays. We piled everyone back aboard and made our way slowly out through the reef. Hideko was on the bow but with the sun only 20 degrees or so above the horizon it was just about impossible to read the water. Our charts had proven very accurate in this area and I had some bearings to work with from the cruising guide so it wasn't too hairy.

We anchored off of Palm Island to give Atsuko and Razmig one last amazing beach to play on. No one ended up going ashore but Hideko and Razmig went for a snorkel. They were generally nonplused (I don't think they went all the way around to the north where the amazing reef is). Right as they were about to return they sighted a huge Spotted Eagle Ray making the effort worth while.

We cooked up our now famous (to us anyway) Steak Frites, complete with Béarnaise sauce, and enjoyed our last night together in the Grenadines.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Salt Whistle Bay
Randy
09/04/2007, Mayreau

The crew spent the morning snorkeling and exploring Sandy Island. Lots of places in the Caribbean have a "Sandy Island" equivalent. Turks and Caicos has Big Sand Cay, the BVI has Sandy Cay and Sandy Spit, and Cariacou has Sandy Island. These "sandy" spots seem to be universally great places. This particular island has been getting smaller with each storm however and soon may be Sandy Bar.

There's a lot of coral built up on the north side of the island, presumably to protect the island from the north swell in the winter. The coral forms little pools that are connected to the ocean but only by small intricate channels. There are no real trees left living on the island but there are two good sized dead ones. The pelicans have requisitioned these and use them as a spotting platform for their hunting expeditions. The balance of the island is just beautiful white and pink sand.

Roq and I explored the island while Hideko, Razmig and Atsuko went snorkeling around the northeast point, which they rated as their favorite snorkeling spot of the trip. They found two lobsters on their exploration. Lobster season had just opened here September 1 but visitors are not allowed to take them. I was hoping that we would find a way to get Razmig and Atsuko in on a Lobster barbeque while they were here.

Razmig and Atsuko had to fly home on the 6th so we were really saving the best for last on this trip. We weighed anchor at just after noon and sailed over to Union Island on a moderate breeze. Razmig and I went to the airport to clear the boat in and to get plane tickets to Barbados for Atsuko and him. We tried to find a place to eat but low season had set in and few places were open and those that were only served lunch around noon.

We left Clifton harbor and sailed up the leeward coast of Mayreau for Salt Whistle Bay. Salt Whistle is one of the most beautiful anchorages you can find, but like most such anchorages, it has fallen victim to its own popularity. I secretly was hoping that the recent storms might have scared off all of the tourists.

As we came around the point I was pleasantly surprised, there were only four or five other boats. When we were here last folks were anchored out past the entrance of the bay. The contingent tonight consisted of a large sport fisher med moored to the beach, a small cruising boat from France and three Switch charter cats. Switch.fr is a French charter outfit and they seem to charter year round with no problem. The French are hard core sailors.

While we were setting the anchor a glass over plywood power boat came over. I always try to be nice to these guys but I am usually predisposed to avoid purchases. We really don't need much once we're out and about. We had fresh fruit from the market, Hideko catching fresh fish (although she's been striking out lately), we were set. We exchanged greetings, I said "yualright?", he said "gudgud", he gave me his pitch and I almost said, "thanks mon, we're good", but a car locked up the brakes in my head, jammed the shifter into reverse and floored it. He had just asked if we wanted to join in on a lobster beach barbeque. Whoa. I RSVPed for four. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Sailing to Sandy Island
Randy
09/03/2007, Cariacou

It felt like we were just getting started on the trip today and yet our friends were going to be leaving so soon. A Tropical Storm smack in the middle of your vacation can have that effect. Hideko had cleared us out yesterday so we were ready to do some serious cruising and we had an ambitious plan for the next few days.

We said another sad goodbye to all of our friends at Martin's Marina and got on our way. We motored out the west entrance of Mount Hartman Bay and up around the point to Saint Georges. Entering the Saint Georges harbor, we anchored in the lagoon just in time for a nice downpour. I wondered if we would get a whole day of good sunny weather for Razmig and Atsuko. We were at the peak of the rainy season of course.

After a short pounding the rain blew off and we decided to risk a trip to the Carenage in the dinghy. Saint Georges is really a quaint little town and has to be one of the classics in the Caribbean. We walked through a one way tunnel, used equally by people and cars, beneath the old fort to emerge in the wharf area. The famous Saint Georges market is just a few blocks down. We explored the market for a bit and bought lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. There is a fish market on the docks as well but Hideko was determined to catch her own. We tried to find a place that was serving Oil Down but to no avail. Our second choice was the tasty pineapple/bacon burgers at the Port Louis Marina.

We returned to Swingin' on a Star a bit late. It was getting toward 13:00 and it was a ways to Cariacou, our planned destination. We decided to make a go for it. I hauled up the anchor and Hideko drove us out into the Caribbean Sea. As usual when you're behind a big island the wind was a little fluky but we put up all the canvas to see what would come our way. It turned out to be a great sail though we ran one motor the whole way to keep the speed up in the lulls. Razmig and Atsuko enjoyed evading the sun by moving from the port pulpit chair, to the starboard trampoline, to the starboard pushpit chair, etceteras.

We arrived at Sandy Island just outside of Hillsborough Harbor right before sunset. The little anchorage south of Sandy Island is breath taking. The conditions were very settled and we had an infinite collection of stars above. As the night wore on there was a bit of ruckus out on the water, we were all curious as to what was going on. Upon looking over the side we saw large globs of bio-luminescence appearing and disappearing all around the boat. Hideko got out the flood light and we discovered that the eerie lights were coming from jellies floating along with the current. Large schools of small fish were swarming about the area as well. Even more bizarre was the appearance of several fishing bats, snatching a meal from the water. I'm not exactly sure who was eating who but it was intriguing to watch.

Grenada

Newer ]  |  [ Older ]

 

 
Powered by SailBlogs

copyright 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 Randy & Hideko Abernethy, all rights reserved