12/29/2007, Pigeon Point
We returned our rental car today and tried the pancake house for breakfast. Jeremy at the rental car place dropped us off which was nice of him. The food at the pancake house was good but service was subject to Caribbean speed and accuracy. Order a berry smoothie, get a banana smoothie, but hey as long as what you get is tasty you're ahead of the game.
After walking back to the beach we moved the big boat up the coast a little to Pigeon point. Pigeon point is one of those anchorages behind a reef that looks wide open but is really pretty settled. You can't get greedy though, if you try to move in all the way to the north east you'll drop anchor in shallow sand over rock. Most of the time this anchorage is much less rolly than Store Bay.
The Pigeon Point is a park and coming from land you have to pay $3 US to get in. If you're on a yacht and land your dinghy on the beach you may have to pay or you may not. Seems to depend on who's on patrol. One guy told us we didn't need to pay when we dinghy in and another guy told us to pay.
There are a number of establishments back in the palms including shops near the entrance, a SCUBA outfit, a dock where the glass bottom boats shuttle folks back and forth to the reef, a fast food and bar area, a proper sit down restaurant and a water sports shack. The water sports folks rent wind surfers and kite board set ups as well as lessons.
Stian and Tina were enjoying the beach when we got there and had their new wind surfer all set up. Stian had bought the wind surfer in Chagarams right before he left for $25 US, not a bad deal! The mast is a little short for the sail but otherwise it is great. Stian spent some time teaching Hideko and I how to get going. It was a lot of fun falling into the water over and over but I think we'll need a day on a starter rig to get going.
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We teamed up with the Doris crew and rented a car for an island tour today. We met Stian and Tina along with little August (1) and only slightly larger Agnes (3) at the beach and then set off to find a suitable vehicle. We had tried to reserve a car by phone yesterday but the effort was comical at best. Showing up in person seemed the only reliable way to secure transportation.
Fortunately there are several rental facilities in Crown Point due to the international air port. We settled on Tobago United Auto Rentals run by a fellow named Whatty. A young man named Jeremy helped us get going and I would recommend the establishment.
We took the entire day to circumnavigate the island, stopping to take photos, inspect anchorages and just take in the beautiful island. Tobago is a remarkable place. It has all of the Robinson Crusoe with just enough commerce to allow you to go diving and rent a kite board easily. The island has a population of about 50,000 and a large percentage live in the Scarborough area. The rest of the island is pretty thinly inhabited.
The roads were pretty good and from what I understand they had just paved the last bit of the coastal loop. We traveled slowly up the south coast to Speyside stopping for a few minutes in King's Bay which was very scenic. There were two yachts anchored in King's Bay but the swell was rolling in causing them to do the mono hull two step.
When we arrived in Speyside you could tell that the undersea experience was the driving force in town. Dive shops and glass bottom boats lined the beach. The current runs strong through this area keeping the marine life interesting. I look forward to diving here in the days ahead.
We stopped in at Jemma's Tree House for lunch. A cruise ship was in town and hordes of cruiseliners were prowling around their buses as they waited for tables. Somehow we got seated and served in the midst of all of this. I couldn't believe how fast the service was. I had never seen anything like it in the Caribbean. I suppose the cruise ship schedule had whipped them into a fervor. They certainly were prospering from the effort.
Jemma's is a neat place and is fun with a cruise ship mobbing the place, but would be fabulous on a quiet day. The tables are at all different levels up in the trees and the restaurant looks out over the bay with Little Tobago and Goat island just off shore. We ordered chicken, fish and lobster and everything was fantastic. A good place to stop if you're in the neighborhood.
From Speyside we continued on to Charlotteville which is just over the hill on the north side of the island. Charlotteville is situated on Man of War Bay, an impressive sweeping harbor with various places to anchor. Swell seemed to get in to this bay as well but it seemed that those anchored in the eastern end of the bay might avoid the better part of any rolling.
We continued on down to Bloody Bay where it is said the French, English and Spanish all got into a brawl at one point. From there we headed over the hill into the rain forest. The mountains here reach over 500 meters and the park is the oldest in the Caribbean. Many birds can be found here and we saw flights of parrots traveling about often.
At the bottom of the rain forest we took a hike up to Argyle Falls. It was a nice hike and a beautiful waterfall. The kids seemed to enjoy the waterfall but weren't too happy about the hiking part.
The day was wearing on so we made our way back to the beach in Store Bay. We did a little unexpected exploring after things got dark but ultimately made our way back to the dinghies and home after a nice big picture tour of the island.
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12/27/2007, Store Bay
We spent another day reading and cleaning up on board. We did catch up with our friends on Doris and Andromeda as well.
Store Bay is not a bad anchorage. It is very close to the shops and restaurants in the larger Crown Point area. There are a couple of nice beaches, a beach bar, some great restaurants including Latitude 11 and a great pizza place run by actual Italians. It is easy to get into and clear of hazards until you get in near the moorings for the tour boats. You have to keep clear of the power cable that runs to Trinidad at the north end and most of the anchorage is in 30 feet of water.
On the down side Store Bay can be loud. The odd 747 comes in to the airport fairly low to the water from time to time and the music from the hotels and passing glass bottom boats can get impossing. The swell comes in on the beam a bit as well.
We are going to try the Pigeon Point anchorage up the coast just a bit in a day or two.
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We cleared in to Tobago today. It is a bit of a hop from Store Bay over to Scarborough. We didn't really have a plan for getting there when we left the big boat on the dinghy. As we were hauling our dinghy up the beach a German couple arrived on their dingy. We helped each other get our respective dinghies up the beach and they told us they were headed for customs. They were nice enough to give us a ride in their rental car.
Konrad and Maria are a fun couple cruising the Caribbean on KataMaria, their Leopard 42. Our ordeal gave us a lot of time to get to know each other.
We started off at immigration. Konrad had tried to clear out yesterday but was told to come back after the holiday and to see immigration first. You can not clear yachts at the airport (it is too close to Store Bay the principal yacht anchorage...), though you will often be told to go there, to no avail as Konrad had also discovered. The immigration folks at the port in Scarborough were not home when we arrived. Our next stop was customs. We rang the bell as instructed by the sign on the door. No answer. We decided that persistence might be in order. After about 15 minutes an officer finally came to the door. He was drying his hair because he had just taken a shower. He was going on 30 hours straight because the last two relief officers had no showed on him. We felt bad for him sitting in that office for the holiday.
He stamped our clearance doc and told us we were done. I asked him if we needed to check back in to visit other anchorages (as I had heard we would have to do) and he said no you are all set. Good enough for me. He did say that we would have to see immigration and customs before returning to Trinidad.
Konrad did not get so lucky. He was told that he had to see Immigration first. The customs guy called the immigration officer, who said he would meet us at the port in one hour. We thanked the customs officer and walked around Scarborough for a bit. Almost nothing was open but we found a place to get a soda and the girls bought some fresh produce from a street vender.
We waited at immigration for a half hour past the designated meeting time and the officer did not show up. Frustrated Konrad returned to the customs office and they called immigration again. The answer this time was that the immigration officer's car wouldn't start so another officer was going to go to the airport, get the keys from the guy with the bad car and then meet us at immigration in 30 minutes. So we waited at immigration for another hour. A German single hander and a British couple, both just arrived in Charlottville from across the Atlantic, walked up at that point. Chrlotteville is on the other side of the island and they have customs there but you have to come to Scarborough for immigration.
As we waited I noted how quiet the town was, it was a holiday of course. A pack of five dogs trotted down the middle of the street with an apparent agenda. A while later they came back the other direction. The immigration officer finally arrived and Konrad wrapped up his business in about 20 minutes. Then we had to go back to customs for the third time.
Scarborough is not a place you want to bring your boat if you can avoid it. Cruise ships come in there but there are no services for small boats. I have seen people anchor up behind the new break water for short periods but I don't think that Scarborough would be a preferred spot for anything other than a short stop.
After our five hour customs and immigration session we treated ourselves to lunch at Latitude 11. Konrad and Maria enjoyed the restaurant as much as we did and had made a connection with the German chef. After lunch we dinghied back to the big boat for a relaxing afternoon and waved goodbye to Konrad and Maria who were on there way to the next island.
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12/25/2007, Store Bay
It was a little cloudy today so Hideko, Roq and I opted to have a relaxing Christmas day aboard Swingin' on a Star. It was great to spend a day at anchor in the clean blue water again. Tobago appears to be a beautiful place to spend the holidays.
|Trinidad and Tobago||
Today we sailed for Tobago. We had been in Chagaramas for a while and managed to get a few things done but still haven't even started on the big projects. Everyone is either too busy or not working so we decided to stop swimming up stream and come back in mid January. In the mean time Tobago here we come.
The Guyana Current (Equatorial Current, Lesser Antilles Current, or what ever else you would like to call it) makes a strong showing in the gap between Trinidad and Tobago. Most folks Sailing for Tobago from Trinidad hug Trinidad's north coast and then shoot across the smallest possible gap.
There is one other play in the play book however and we were going to try it. The flood tide in this area is supposed to create an opposing current and on a spring tide you can even cancel out the Guyana current, so they say. It was a full moon and max flood looked to be at around 13:30.
I was particularly fond of this plan because it allowed us to leave around 9AM in order to make the channel crossing at 13:30. We already had the boat pretty much ready to go and had all of our routes set up on paper and electronics.
Getting off the dock was an interesting exercise. We had two nasty lines tied out front. We removed the cross ties taking us down to two quarter lines on the stern to the dock. Billy, who lives on his Peterson across the dock from us, helped me with the stern lines while Hideko was out in the dinghy getting the bow lines off of the buoys. I just made sure that we didn't slide into the 100 foot Turkish motor sailer to port.
Once the scuzy lines were aboard I drove over to the fuel dock and Hideko met me there on the dink. Hideko fueled us up while I took the dink over to customs. We didn't have to visit immigration but they want you to check in and out of customs when you go to Tobago or any other anchorage for that matter. I think one of the main reasons folks don't cruise Trinidad and Tobago is that the government makes it a real hassle. Between the north coast of Trinidad and the various anchorages of Tobago is would be a fun place to gunkhole. Sailing around casually like this is almost impossible though because you have to check in with customs every time you go somewhere.
The check out didn't take long and I felt bad for the guys working on Christmas eve. I was their only customer at the time. When I got back to the boat we put the dink up on deck and headed north. As expected it was rather bumpy where the currents cross right as you exit in to the Atlantic but things settled into a 4-6 foot shortish swell after that. Not a dream, but not bad at all either. We stayed close to the North coast to keep out of the current and did a nice 9 knots as we motor sailed along the coast. If we can manage it we'd love to stop at several of the beautiful anchorages we saw along the way.
A story told by another sailor made this sound bureaucratically untenable. The guy told me that upon notifying customs in Tobago that he would be heading back to Chagarams but stopping in each of two anchorages on the way they said, "you'll have to go to Chagaramas first then sail back to the other anchorages". Apparently the Tobago folks can't clear you for Trinidad anchorages. When he told then that he could only sail down wind and that these anchorages were miles upwind from Chagaramas, the official was taken aback, not realizing sailing upwind was difficult. After a moment of reflection he said that he was sorry about the wind but that the sailor would have to go to Chagaramas.
About a third of the way along the coast we ran across a fleet of fishing boats. They were classic looking craft with huge flocks of birds perched all about them, the overflow winging about waiting for a spot to open. Dodging the patchwork lines they inscribed back and forth along my path gave me something to do for a half hour or so. They clearly knew they had the right of way.
We turned onto a heading of about 070 and made for Tobago at around 12:30. At first I was encouraged. It seemed like the tide was holding off the prevailing current. Then as we got further and further into the channel the heading and COG began to diverge. At its worst we were being set about 12 degrees off track and losing as much as a knot and a half of way. So much for the tidal current cancelation theory, given the 12 degree set at a boat speed of eight to nine knots the prevailing current works out to be over 1.5 knots. Even though our current plans didn't work out, it was a blue sky day along our track and a pleasant sail.
We arrived at the anchorage in Store Bay and parked right behind Doris who was still right where I left her. I was happy we would get to meet Stian's family. We had also agreed to join Hideko's friends on Andromeda for Christmas eve dinner at Latitude 11 around 7PM.
We got Swingin' on a Star settled and took showers quickly so that we wouldn't hold up the works. Store Bay doesn't have a jetty or pier to land on but the swell that was on its way hadn't come in yet, so the beach landing didn't look too bad tonight. After getting dressed up (in so far as you ever really get dressed up in the Caribbean) we dinghied over to Andromeda.
Andromeda is a Dean 42. Michal, the skipper, spent quite a bit of time in South Africa working with the factory to get her they way he wanted. She is a lovely catamaran with a great interior. We shared a celebratory glass of Champaign with Michal, his wife Mary, Alexandra their 15 month old, their nanny Bethn, and their friend Courtney who was visiting for the holidays.
We spent the rest of the evening enjoying a wonderful dinner at the splendid Latitude 11, a short walk from the beach. I had the Christmas special with fantastic turkey, stuffing and gravy not to mention the other four courses. Others enjoyed fillet mignon and wahoo. It was a great evening and a wonderful chance to interrogate the very experienced Andromeda crew. Everyone had a wonderful Christmas eve, even Roq who greatly appreciated the fillet left overs.
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We were prepping our boat for a trip to Tobago today and we decided to check on the lines as we got things ready to go. We had recently purchased two brand new 100 foot long ¾ inch three strand nylon lines to use as coconut tree lines. They had never been used prior to our arrival in Chagaramas but they came in handy for tying the bow off to the buoys out front.
The photo here shows what one month in the water at Chagaramas did to our lines. We are going to let them sun bleach for a couple days and then soak them in soapy water for a couple more to see if we can get them to recover. The huge amounts of hard growth (barnacles and what not) totally amazed me. Glad we have fresh bottom paint.
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