01/25/2008, Port Louis
It is Friday and we have three more work days to go before we have to take off on Tuesday. While I hate to admit it, we have gotten more work done on the boat than I expected at this point, even so we were a bit behind on several fronts. The fiberglass work had taken longer than expected do to the difficulty of the work space, the extra grinding required to remove the glass laid up over the hulls gel coat and the large amount of clean up.
Johnny Sails was supposed to start on our project Wednesday but has only stopped by once to re-measure some things. This worried me because it is easy to imagine how a sail maker during regatta week could be distracted. I was still hoping he would come through though because he is a wonderful guy who uses the best materials (Sunbrella, UV safe thread, etceteras) and really understood what we wanted made.
On the bright side I met Nick of TechNick, who runs the steel fabrication shop in the Spice Island Marine complex. I asked him if he could make me a water-sports board rack on short order. I couldn't believe he said yes. Since our great experience wind surfing, Hideko and I have been trying to find a place to stash a windsurfing board. While at it I figured I'd make room for my old 8'6" surf board that Thomas is looking after for me.
We considered several locations and finally decided on making a rack to bolt underneath the hard bimini. The Saint Francis hard top is so far off the deck that I can't touch it reaching over my head. This gives us plenty of room to install a rack and still have ample head room for 6 foot plus folks. My only hesitation was that the boat is so clean as is and I don't want it to start getting it cluttered. The Saint Francis 50 has so much storage space that nothing intrudes on decks. No jerry jugs or solar panels on the rails, no lines or hardware on the side decks to obstruct the walk way, just a clean layout. Unfortunately the board lockers, which although awesome, are only 7 feet long, just a bit too small for a windsurfer.
I wanted to wrap up the rigging tasks today to ensure that we will be ready to sail on Tuesday. Some of the jobs left to do involved putting holes in the mast but I didn't have a tap set. I had searched most of the island and found some taps but no drivers. Richard accidentally snapped off a tap when installing a pad eye earlier in the week and that was using a good tap set. It was a bear getting the broken tap out without damaging the threads. I wanted to make sure that any holes I made in the mast were done carefully and correctly, which meant a proper tap driver. The only way I could think of to finish the project would be to borrow the tools from Turbulence rigging and I wasn't sure they would do such a thing.
Later I wound up in Island Water World across the lagoon to pick up some more things for Brent. IWW had already told me that they had no tap sets but I decided to scrounge around in their locked case anyway while I waited in line. Lo and behold, there on the bottom of the case, under a couple of packaged drill bits I found a little yellow box. I opened it and inside were the exact taps and drill bits I needed with a nice T handle driver. I guarded it with my life on the way to the check out counter.
Back at the boat I carefully installed the pad eye for the topping lift block and the foot block for the main halyard. The Main halyard is a special case. It must bear a lot of load the entire time the boat is underway, and thus anything in its path must be strong and secure.
When making the rigging mods I wanted, in so far as possible, to leave the operations at the mast intact. In other words I wanted to make things accessible from the cockpit but also allow the old mast operations to function as well for double coverage. Thus the line jammers for the reef leach lines are still in place as are the clips and tack rings. To do the same thing with the halyard I needed to leave it running through the mast jammer. To make this run fair I had to lead the halyard under the winch mounting bracket to a block on the side of the mast. A footblock worked best here and only required the removal of a single cleat to make the run back to the deck organizer. Once installed it made a perfect run.
The topping lift goes on when the main is down and off when the main is up. It is rarely used otherwise. This and the fact that the topping lift comes down on the port side of the mast where the winch feeds on the aft side made a pad eye with a Dyneema loop and block a good solution. The topping lift no longer runs through the mast jammer but this is fine because the topping lift is not really a critical system as long as the compression post is functioning.
During all of this the compression post was a big consideration. I wanted to make sure that all of the lines were unobstructed on any point of sail. Using the Dyneema attached blocks allowed us to get the block outboard and as far up under the boom sheaves as possible. That combined with the most outboard installation of the deck organizer as possible keep the line paths clear of the post under almost any trim of the boom. If you let the traveler all the way down and let the sheet out until the main's battens are bending on the shrouds you can touch the compression post to the lines, but I doubt most folks would be willing to treat their main sail so.
Next I ran all of the new Dyneema lines for the topping lift and reef two. I watched Richard do this and picked up the trick, which was butting the two lines together and then putting three loops of whipping twine through them with a sail-makers needle to connect them together like a train. Then you pull the existing line out as the new line feeds in. The main halyard was already long enough to reach back to the cockpit. Saint Francis put a very long halyard on the boat to give you flexibility and it saved me a lot of money here. In fact when we finally had things situated I cut some of the halyards tail off we had so much extra. The extra length would be good if you used the main halyard to haul things up over the rail but we either use the davit block and tackle or the Spin Halyard for that type of thing.
As the sun sets on the lagoon we usually get a calm patch. When it came I quickly raised the main to see if I had flubbed up any of the line lengths. They all needed a little trim but the reef lines I installed had so much extra that you could only call the installer (me) paranoid. The old tails are now nice spare Dyneema lines in our line locker. It was a joy to see the primary project we have wanted done on the boat since we bought her flapping in the calm breeze. Hideko and I dropped the main and couldn't wait to go for a sail on Tuesday.
01/24/2008, Port Louis
Bow reinforcement. This was one of those jobs you really don't want to do. We have always had gel coat cracks around the cross beam attachment points and the cracks have grown somewhat from the time that we purchased the boat from Saint Francis. Grinding off all of the gel coat inside the small bow area to check the fiberglass is no trivial task. In the end, if the glass looks fine, you may have just wasted a whole lot of time.
Yet we are headed into the South Pacific. The crossings there are much longer than those in the Caribbean and the boat services are much harder to come by. With a couple of exceptions, everyone I have talked to, including the factory, suggested I add a few layers of glass to the area to be sure there wouldn't be a problem.
Before we started we examined both bows in detail. Upon inspection it became obvious that a layer of glass had already been added to the cross beam attachment points after the boat was assembled. My suspicion is that the addition was done in Exuma not at the factory. There was fiberglass on some of the electrical conduit (which would not have been installed until all of the glass work was done at the factory) and the patch was laid on top of the interior gel coat without grinding. Glassing on top of gel coat is discouraged and greatly reduces any benefit that may be gained by adding glass. My greatest disappointment was that the factory did not inform me of the repair at the time of purchase or anytime leading up to this work.
We had to remove several bits of hardware to get the area ready for grinding. Three or four tramp track bolts had to come out, a stanchion backing plate had to be removed and the wiring conduit for the running lights had to be pined out of the way. Oh yeah, and of course the cross beam backing plates had to come off.
Catamaran rigs are pretty simple. You have your swept back shrouds and you have your forestay. You may have lowers and an intermediate fore stay as we do but the point is a huge part of your mast's stability relies on the cross beam. To unbolt this baby is a delicate thing. I prepared the boat for this by taking all three of the forward halyards down to bow cleats, two on one side and one on the other. I then sequentially winched each halyard up nice and tight but not too tight. Next I loosened the cap shrouds a bit.
Once prepared, we said a prayer and removed the backing plate on the port side. The cross beam immediately broke the residual hold of the bedding and rose up a good four inches. Everything stopped there, I began to breath again, and all was well. Ian went to work grinding off the last areas of the bow interior. The cross beam would stay disconnected for more than a day while the work was finished.
The grinding took longer than expected because we had to not only grind off the gel coat but also the fiberglass and additional gel coat layer of the after factory patch. In the end we had a clean area of factory glass cleared all around the backing plate attachment area. This gave us an area with four connected planes to reinforce: both sides of the hull, the bottom of the deck and the bulkhead.
Once we had the glass cleared I looked for cracks in the glass itself. Neither Brent, Ian nor I found anything concerning in the actual factory fiberglass. There may have been no strength issues in the first place. Then again there may have been early stage issues or small amounts of fiber cracking, hard to detect in the laminate at present. Though I was happy and reassured to see that the hull looked fine, my reinforcement plans would go forward regardless.
After considering several exotic alternatives I decided to use 1808 biaxial glass fabric for the reinforcement. Some folks have suggested Carbon Fiber or Carbon Kevlar cloth hybrids but after careful analysis I think that 1808 biaxial is the right material for the job. It is heavier than some of the exotics and in some ways not as strong pound for pound. Some of the benefits of the exotics are not relevant to this task however and the glass is far easier to work with. The area where we would be reinforcing has several 90 degree bends and there are places where the glass will need to be applied overhead. Kevlar in particular is famous for being tricky to wet out. All factors considered I was happy to be using epoxy and glass.
Brent carefully measured and pre cut the cloth into several layers. The first consisted of two large sheets that met at the top of the bow with a four inch overlap, covering the entire hull area that had been cleared. The second was a smaller pair of sheets that ended three inches or so from the edges of the first layer to ensure that no point loading would take place. The final sheet was a patch about six inches larger than the steel backing plate itself.
Brent and Ian used acetone to clean the surfaces and then pre wet the area to be covered. They then carefully applied the pieces of glass and rolled on additional epoxy carefully eliminating bubbles. Each layer was given time to setup before the next was added to ensure good adhesion, especially in the overhead spots. When they completed the hull layers they tabbed in the bow bulkhead area reinforcing the bulkhead, which had cracked at the bottom, and the entire bow laminate.
With the fiberglass work complete, the standard approach would be to gel coat the area to seal it. Instead I asked them to seal it with a layer of epoxy, just as many folks do to their bottoms before applying bottom paint. This is not as cosmetically appealing but it is extremely waterproof and also transparent. This way if I ever get paranoid I can just climb up there with a flash light and relax. No one would otherwise see this part of the boat.
The next task was to bed the backing plate with epoxy and 404. Any application of fiberglass on a curved surface is going to create a less than perfect plate bed. To avoid point loading the fiberglass with the edges of the plate you must create a perfectly flat bed for the plate to rest on that is mechanically connected to the rest of the laminate. The 404/epoxy mixture worked perfectly here. The guys placed a light layer of release wax on the plate to allow it to be removed once the epoxy had setup.
Once everything inside was set we re-drilled the crossbeam bolt holes through the new laminate and prepped the surfaces to be re-bedded. Now, how to get the cross beam back down to the level of the holes...
This was an issue I went over again and again in the day or so that the beam was floating nearly half a foot above its permanent home. Brent suggested we install the backing plate and the hull plate by removing the single bolt that attaches the beam to said plates. This was a great idea. Now we had only one bolt to slip into place once we got the beam down into position.
I had spent a bit of the day loosening the shrouds quite a bit in anticipation of this task. My next step was to scour the dock looking for people who looked like they could balance on a cross beam. In the end I turned up the crew of the Helen Mary Gee and a couple of Marina employees. I told them beer was involved and they briskly joined me at the work site.
Next Ian and Brent aligned the beam as they hung on it and I added one person at a time to the cross beam, lowering it bit by bit. When I finally had enough humans balancing on the cross beam to line it up I slid in the big bolt. It was a tricky operation due to the bushings and washers and such but we finally secured things and tightened the final bolt. The celebration began shortly thereafter.
The starboard side was trickier than the port due to the cramped quarters created by the washer/dryer but easier because we kept the cross beam in place by leaving two bolts in with washers and nuts at all times. My beer supply couldn't take another press gang and my blood pressure couldn't take another floating cross beam.
At the end of the day, the work Brent and Ian did was impeccable. The fiberglass layup in the bows of our boat are a model to strive for. They never settled either. When the bolts for the backing plates were long enough but not all the way into the nylon locking threads, they bought longer bolts instead of using the old bolts. That type of thing. If you are in Grenada and need to have some fiberglass work done I can not think of anyone I would recommend more highly than Brent and Ian. You can reach Brent at 418-6311.
01/23/2008, Port Louis
The deck organizer installation was a challenge much like the rope clutch installation. If we drilled a hole in the deck it was going to come out right in the middle of the leather finished saloon roof. I like to see backing plates on everything, yet installing a backing plate in this application was going to be messy because the interior ceiling here had not only the foam/fiberglass liner but also a piece of ply covered in leather every few feet. The organizers needed to be installed in a spot that would cover a leather slat, a bare spot and another leather slat. After looking into the structural makeup of the internal headliner we discovered that none of this stuff is structural and thus could not support a backing plat anyway.
After considering many options I decided to leave the interior untouched. The approach we took was to mark the deck where the organizer bolts would need to be installed, hole saw out the top skin enough to be able to clear out the foam core in the general vicinity, and then replace the core with epoxy and high strength filler. This attached the inner fiberglass skin to the top skin with a solid core of epoxy creating a strong and incompressible area of the deck. When pouring in the epoxy we set in the bolts with nuts and washers attached so that the nuts and washers would become a permanent part of the deck. We coated the bolts with release wax so that once the epoxy set up we could remove the bolts and cut them to size so that they were secure in the nuts and pressing firmly down on the deck organizers.
Brent and I installed the port side first. We used various tools to clear the core out from around the bolt holes but a bent nail in the cordless drill seemed to work well. Once we had the four holes cleaned out we layered in the West System epoxy/404 blend in half inch batches. This kept the temperature under control as the mixture kicked off. Once set up we removed the bolts and taped up the holes to protect the installation from the inevitable over night rain and let the whole thing cure for 24 hours. After curing we installed the deck organizers with 5200 bedding and used the Harken isolator washers to protect the organizers from the stainless washers holding everything down with bolts.
The starboard installation required one do over. When cleaning the core out on this side we discovered that a screw driver worked very well also and we ended up creating one large hole connecting all four bolt areas, instead of four separate holes as was the case to port. Unfortunately due to the slant of the deck, the epoxy mix amount that was fine on the other side all ran down into the lowest hole this time, making a pool about an inch and a half thick. Anyone who knows epoxy knows that an inch and a half with standard hardener is going to get really hot really fast. We rapidly cleaned out the epoxy as it vulcanized itself. Our second, much slower pass on this side worked out perfectly.
In the end we had two sheets of fiber glass connected by a solid plug of epoxy with perfectly threaded holes and embedded lock nuts against the bottom skin. Initially I wanted a through bolted solution with backing plates but ultimately this installation seems to be effectively equivalent. The bolt would have to rip out the entire epoxy plug to tear a nut free, much as it would with a backing plate. You could argue that the lower skin is not in play but it is epoxied to the entire assembly and it is fairly thin anyway. On the other hand the lateral strength of the assembly is impressive and this is the strength required by a deck organizer. Only someone accidentally tripping over the organizer would threaten to pull it up through the deck. The working force of the lines will be a lateral load. The bolts act as cemented studs keeping the organizer from slipping sideways, and the epoxied plug allows both layers of glass to contribute to the systems stability.
We installed the organizer so that the lines run as close to straight back as possible. The main sheets barely touch the sheaves which is great because they are always under load when sailing. The lines from the mast do have a bit of deflection but are still pretty fair. Once finished I was very happy with the result.
01/22/2008, Port Louis
Rigging was moving forward nicely, fiberglass work was making great strides and canvas was supposed to start tomorrow. Things were exceeding my island tuned expectations at every turn. Unfortunately I had to climb into the lazarette every morning to bang on the solenoid to loosen it up so that the generator would start. This is something that I could have probably easily have fixed but a lot of stuff was going on and I was trying to prioritize the rigging seeing as how it had no apparent stake holder.
Mike at Palm Tree Marine (418-5399) was recommended to me by Johnathan, the manager of Island Water World here. Johnathan is a very reputable friend of the cruiser community in Grenada and I highly value his recommendations. I also randomly met Mike's wife picking up parts at FedEx while we were getting our mail at FedEx last week. Mike came over and did a very thorough and careful job swapping out the solenoid. I had bought a new 12v solenoid at Napa. It was an automotive solenoid but looked exactly the same as the old one except for the red Westerbeke paint. It worked perfectly and thanks to Mike we can start the genset from the Nav station again.
01/21/2008, The Lagoon
Brent and Ian came by early today to push forward on the final grinding in the bows. Richard from Turbulence Rigging also came by in the afternoon. Richard brought the rest of our hardware. Bringing reef one leach and luff, reef two leach and luff, the topping lift, and the main halyard back to the cockpit required a bit of gear. We purchased the Lewmar rope clutches in Trinidad at Budget Rigging and bought everything else from Richard. Richard was able to get the bits we needed that he did not have in stock (Turbulence carries an impressive bit of stock) in less than a week.
At the end of the project our parts list looked like this:
Lewmar Triple Rope Clutch WLL:1,550
$245.00 2 $490.00
Clutch Mounting Nuts, Bolts and Washers
$1.00 12 $12.00
Harken Large Boat Quad Sheave Deck Organizer (6067) WLL:8,000 $124.15 2 $248.29
Organizer Mounting Nuts, Bolts and Washers
$1.00 8 $8.00
Harken 75mm Black Magic Air Blocks Double Straphead (3095) WLL:7,500
$641.13 2 $1,282.26
Harken 75mm Black Magic Air Blocks Single Straphead (1999) WLL:5,000
$356.89 1 $356.89
Harken 75mm Black Magic Air Blocks Single Footblock (1972) WLL:5,250
$297.06 1 $297.06
Harken Diamond Pad Eyes (688) WLL:5,000
$30.06 3 $90.19
Dynema Attachment Loops WLL:5,600
$2.00 3 $6.00
Reef #1 Luff Line (12mm Dyneema) * WLL:750
$3.70 100 $370.00
Reef #1 Leach Line (12mm Dyneema) * WLL:750
$3.70 125 $462.50
Topping Lift Line (12mm Dyneema) * WLL:750
$3.70 175 $647.50
Reef #3 Luff Line (12mm Dyneema) * WLL:750
$3.70 150 $555.00
Reef #3 Leach Line (12mm Dyneema) * WLL:750
$3.70 175 $647.50
* Safety factor of 10x used for lines (MBL 7,500 = WLL 750)
Grand Total $5,473.21
I watched carefully as Richard installed the pad eye for the double strap head block that would carry the lines for reef one. I the only thing I hate more than drilling holes in my boat is watching other people drill holes in my boat. I have become very particular about the process.
After drilling the holes in the mast, bedding the hardware with 5200 and isolating the screws with Tefgel we mounted the pad eyes for the double strap-head blocks for reef one and reef two.
I love the strap-head blocks. They are much more flexible than shackled blocks. You can completely and easily adjust the length of the Dyneema attachment loops to get a perfect fit, unlike shackles. The Dyneema loops are much stronger than the 316 stainless shackles and in the basket configuration you have four lines connecting the block to the pad eye. Lastly the Dyneema connections don't clank around and they are easy to replace when need be. This seems to be the way racing boats are going more and more but I think it is the best attachment means for many cruising applications as well.
Richard and I replaced the reef one leach line with a longer Dyneema 12mm line that reached back to the cockpit and then installed the new luff line. Some folks tie the luff line to the boom and then run it through the cringle and back. I just put a bolin on the existing webbing ring and brought the line back. This way I don't have to spring for another block or deal with chafe from the line running through a raw cringle. I lose the double line from the boom but if things are that hairy I will just clip the tack in using the old, fully functional, reefing system. Incidentally, this old system uses clips attached to mast pad eyes with Spectra. The luff lines run cleanly right from the cringle down to the blocks at the base of the mast without requiring any holes in the sail bag.
Richard had to call it a day but I was happy to have witnessed an entire set of operations necessary to attach hardware to the mast. As Richard informed me that he wasn't sure when he would be able to return, the Regatta was coming up and he is an avid racer, I had the feeling that I might require these skills sooner rather than later.
01/20/2008, The Lagoon
Normally on Sunday in the islands nothing constructive takes place unless you do it yourself. In fact you could say that about Saturday as well. Today, however, Brent and Ian showed up at about 9AM ready to get to work. I was so glad to have two very experienced and skilled guys, also with great attitudes and a "get it done on time" demeanor working on our boat. I am also a picky bastard and like everything done to exacting specifications. Not only did Brent make sure that everything was completed the way I wanted it he was happy to work with me and even teach me along the way.
Ian spent most of the day grinding in the bowels of the boat while Brent and I sorted out the Lewmar rope clutch install. To do the rope clutch install we had two challenges. One was making sure that the clutches were lined up properly to minimize side loading on the lines leading to the winches and the deck organizers (which had not yet been installed). The other challenge was that we had almost no existing access to the back of the rope clutch pad.
Hideko and I like to keep the boat looking clean inside and out and we try not to do things that tear up the interior. The port clutch pad is above the microwave and a finished part of the interior ceiling. It has an access hole from inside the microwave cabinet about the size of three fingers. The starboard clutch pad is above the starboard winch box and a finished part of the interior ceiling. This one has an access port about the size of one finger inside the winch motor box.
After a lot of deliberation we could find no way to avoid cutting a hole in the ceiling on the starboard side to get at the nuts and washers on the back of the pads. We cut a fine line with a Makita Sawsall and saved the plug so that we could reinstall it with some epoxy after the install. On the port side we cut out some of the ceiling inside the cabinet and this seemed to make a large enough opening. The interior ceiling is a one sided foam sheet about a half inch thick with a thin layer of painted fiberglass on one side.
Once we could get a small socket into the area under the pads we unbolted the existing main sheet clutches. The existing clutches are sized for 12-14mm. Our new triple clutches are 10-12mm. Our existing reef lines and jib sheets are 14mm but our main sheet is 12mm (presumably because it is double ended). The reef lines that we're installing for reef one and two are 12mm Dyneema (which is stronger than the 14mm single braid). Since we are leaving the jib clutch in place we decided to purchase 10-12mm clutches for the new runs. The rope clutches tend to work best and do the least damage to the largest ropes that can take.
It took a little muscle to get the old clutches off of the pads due to the calk still holding them down. We checked the alignment of the triple clutch and the old single in various positions that made use of the existing holes but none worked out just perfect. Once resigned to drilling all new holes we taped the bottom of the old screw holes and filled them in with West System epoxy and 404 high density filler.
To quote the West System web site: "404 High-Density filler is a thickening additive developed for maximum physical properties in hardware bonding where high-cyclic loads are anticipated. It can also be used for filleting and gap filling where maximum strength is necessary." This stuff turned out to be very handy on several projects.
I have had several people try to talk me into doing repairs with polyester resin. It is cheaper and easier to work with. The problem is that it has poor secondary bonding characteristics. Laying polyester over uncured polyester works well because in the end it forms a single bonded piece. However laying polyester over cured polyester creates two layers of polyester stuck together, and often not stuck together all that well. Epoxy on the other hand has very good secondary bonding characteristics. It is harder to work with but if you choose the right hardener and work in reasonable weather it can be producing a far superior finished product, creating a strong bond with existing polyester or epoxy laminates.
Lining up the rope clutches was an exercise in compromise. The triple clutches force all three captive lines to take a parallel course. The positioning of the deck organizer pretty much requires the fourth clutch to be installed parallel to the triple. When installing clutches you want to try to minimize the side strain on any line that will be heavily loaded. On the starboard side we have the main halyard on the far right and the main sheet on the far left. There's no way to run both straight back to the winch. In this case we compromised by balancing the runs a bit but favoring the main sheet which is much more likely to be on the winch for long periods. On the port side we have the topping lift on the outside and the main sheet all the way to the right. That made the port side a bit easier as we focused on a fair run for the main sheet.
Once we had things lined up we marked the holes needed and drilled them. We caulked the clutches and the holes with 5200 making sure that there was a 360 degree seal around the clutch bases and the bolt holes. Getting the washers and nuts on the backs of some of the bolts was very tricky, requiring a fair amount of scraped knuckles and hand contortions.
When we finished and stepped back to admire our work I noticed something odd. We had been working hard to get the job done before night fall. It rains almost every night this time of year and I prefer not to have holes in the boat during precipitation. When we finally set the port clutch in to be mounted we set it in place backwards! Another project for tomorrow...
01/19/2008, The Lagoon
The Port Louis Marina is a nice place though it was still in progress while we were there. There is a wall where boats can tie up at the back of the lagoon and then there's a huge pier that extends toward Saint Georges. Looking back, if I were on a cruising boat I would want to be on the wall in the back. There you have less fetch when the wind kicks up and almost no wake issues from the blasting skiffs and dinghies. The wall is high but maybe only 3 feet off of the water.
The pier is a good five feet off of the water. Our catamaran has about 5 feet of freeboard so it worked out nicely for us. I saw a low profile charter Beneteau tie up at low tide and not even reach the bottom of the pier with their toe rail. Makes it tough to deploy fenders.
When we arrived last night we were met on the dock by two staff members who helped us tie up and welcomed us to the marina. They also gave us the low down on power (there wasn't any) and water (which was in place). I was impressed as this is going beyond the call in the Caribbean. They are obviously working hard to get the team in shape fir the big boats.
Brent and Ian met us this morning to get started on the fiberglass work. We have a few gel coat cracks and chips here and there that we want to fix and two larger projects.
One is the installation of a line hanging rack in the port bow. I found a nice hanger in Fort Lauderdale and installed it before we left. The hanger is made of thick gauge wire screwed onto a piece of wood. I was pretty impressed by the utility of 5200 at the time and simply glued the wood to the hull in the port bow. The port bow in a typical Saint Francis 50 is accessible from deck and is a great place to store lines and fenders. About four months into our travels the line hanger installation failed. The 5200 did not however. Instead the 5200 stayed glued to the paint and simply tore the paint right off of the fiberglass on the hull. Thus what really needed to happen was to grind down the paint in the area of the hanger, epoxy the hanger in place, glass over the wood block, gel coat the area and re-screw on the wire hanger.
Project two had to do with the cross beam attachment points on the bows. When I received the boat the gel coat in this area was cracked. Fiberglass boats are flexible and this is one of their key strengths. Gel coat is, however, very hard and brittle. Thus as the fiberglass in a high stress area flexes it is likely to crack the gel coat but unlikely to over tax the fiberglass if the layup is strong enough. I spoke to the factory about this initially and they did not think there was a problem but asked me to keep an eye on the situation. When we hauled out in Saint David's in November it appeared that the cracks had progressed some. After sending some pictures to the factory they suggested I reinforce the area under warrantee.
So project two will require a bit of grinding. We will first need to remove the gel coat from the inside of the bow around the cross beam backing plates to inspect the fiber glass. This is not fun work and you must be careful to take off only the gel coat. We have also installed a washer/dryer in the starboard bow making access and space on that side tough. Anyone grinding fiberglass into small inhalable particles must wear a full protection suit with hood, a respirator and goggles.
As we got set up to get started on things we ran into several problems. First the guys brought all of their own tools but they run on 220V. The dock of course has no power and our genset puts out 110 at the outlets. I have a good set of Makita stuff but no grinder. I bought the last Makita grinder at the Napa/Ace store across the lagoon and we were back in business. Let the grinding begin.