05/15/2008, Pacific Ocean
Day five underway and all is well.
We have water accumulating in the starboard bilge at a very slow rate (the pump run three times - about every 5 hours or so - for a couple seconds). Trying to track this down but it is such a small amount it is hard to trace.
Seas are still up around six feet and sharp making the ride pretty bouncy. We have been waiting for a lift predicted by the weatherman to allow us to fetch San Cristobal but so far we are still 20 to 30 degrees high (250 degrees-ish). We put in a test tack this afternoon to see what we could manage and we peaked at 140 degrees. Not so good considering our mark is 225. We had a VMG of 0 on the starboard tack. We made our way down to 2 degrees north and tacked back (we were all sick of seeing 2 degrees something...).
Last night was pitch black. I mean dark. No, like really crazy dark. It was 100% overcast and the moon set around 2AM. This made the bio-luminescence bubbling in our wake really easy to see which was fun. We were under sail alone so we were showing only a tricolor. The Boobys didn't like this, they were used to the good fishing offered by our mast head light. They sat on the pull-pit rail in protest all night (and pooped...).
On Nobu's watch a big ship was on a collision course with us. We hailed him on the VHF to inquire as to his intentions. No answer. Typical. Either arrogance or poor watch keeping and no excuse for either. We were close hauled in big seas with rain (restricted visibility) threatening and couldn't fall off without trying to cross in front. We were the starboard vessel in a crossing situation and a sailboat, making him double burdened. All he had to do was say, "I see you" on the VHF and we could have gone along our way without concern. Instead we had to go head to wind, stall the boat and get bounced around for a bit until we could lay off and make way again after his stern. It was something to do anyway.
Today we were getting close enough to have to come up with a final approach plan. We couldn't go fast enough to get in tomorrow before dark without; A: beating our brains out in these seas and B: getting some help from the wind direction. So it had to be the day after tomorrow. This meant we could not sail faster than 6 knots VMG (otherwise we'd arrive at night). So we put a reef in the main and jib and pinched up to 35 degrees off the wind. The wind is supposed to back down to 180 tonight so hopefully that will put us on course for San Cristobal. We should be in around noon the day after tomorrow.
Nobu says: "Come on Galapagos"
Ed says: "hope we get there soon, we've been skunked for fish the last two days"
Hideko says: "I have finally started to understand what it is like to be on a long passage. You get to catch up on a lot of sleep."
209 nm to go...
05/14/2008, Pacific Ocean
Day four to the Galapagos and it is actually starting to seem like we will get there some day. Last night we motor sailed a good bit south of the line to San Cristobal to get back on track and setup for a day of sailing in the morning. We tucked a reef in at sunset and powered along. The current was against us and our boat speed at 1,800 on one engine was barely 5 knots. It was a beautiful evening though and very calm. The seas and wind were on the nose, but they were light and not too bad. We played some music at sunset and enjoyed some of Ed's great tacos.
Nobu starts the night shift with a watch from 16:00 until 19:00. We put one more reef in the main than she needs right before the sunsets at 18:30 and then Nobu hands over to Hideko. Hideko has the 19:00 to 22:00, watch which is the most desirable (she must be married to the captain). Ed takes over at 22:00 and goes until 01:00. My turn comes up at 01:00 and runs until 04:00, the least desirable (he must be the captain). Nobu starts it all over again at 04:00 and by the end of his shift at 07:00 the sun is up, we have the reef shaken out and are off under full sail.
Last night during my watch we had a lot of bird activity. A few nights ago I was watching the radar to try to maneuver around some rain on the horizon. As I looked out at the cloudy skies I saw a green object flying toward us. I couldn't figure out what it was. It looked like it was moving fast and then it split into two parts and veered wildly, glowing green the whole time. When it crossed over to the other side of the boat it turned red. This was when I realized that it was two very white sea birds reflecting our running lights (green starboard and red on port). I was about to call the Air Force.
As Swingin' on a Star scares small fish at the surface the birds swoop down using our lights to see with. Other than some bird poo on the fore deck it is fun to watch. We had a group of four or five last night. It is amazing how they can just live at see for months.
A bit later a small black bird landed in our cockpit. He didn't look big enough to be living at sea. I tried to scare him away but he wouldn't budge. He looked tired and he was over 150 nm from the closest land so I let him be. Shortly there after he went inside when I wasn't looking and started hopping on Roq's head. Roq just sort of looked at me like, "Daaaad, he's on my head". Yes, Roq is vicious. After having his way with Roq the little guy hopped down into one of the hulls. Hideko was having none of this though and made "Perry" a little bird home in the dinghy. Perry has been with us for about a day now so it looks as if he's going all the way to the Galapagos. He hasn't tried to fly yet but Hideko is giving him rice and water so hopefully he'll get back on his feet, er wings.
We had a boisterous but solid sailing day today. We were in the 7 plus knot zone all day. We are running as close hauled as she'll go without losing all speed (about 38 degrees apparent). We have the autopilot keeping the wind 38 to port so our course is a little erratic. Unfortunately it is tending north of target. We were hoping to get into some of the advertised south wind today but haven't quite seen it. We have had some lifts from a moderately sized convective system or two. We're north of track today but at least at a good pace.
Nobu says: "no more seasickness!"
Ed says: "zzzzzzzz (he's off watch and sleeping)"
Hideko says: "I'm nursing Perry back to health"
354nm to go...
05/13/2008, Pacific Ocean
We had a rowdy night last night. There were quite a few thunderstorms in the area. As the sun set the distant fireworks display began. We were past the axis of the ITCZ but still under its influence. It started raining just as it got dark, we snapped in our new cockpit enclosure just in time. In retrospect the enclosure was a great addition once we finally got it finished (started in Grenada, finished in Panama City just before we left).
The wind was still blowing straight from the Galapagos and the seas were on the nose with the current battling us as well. We had expected this for one, maybe two days. The wind was on the nose for two days (through which we motor sailed almost the whole way).
This morning was beautiful. A lovely day at sea. We shut down the diesel and put up all the canvas. It was a great morning of sailing. We couldn't quite lay San Cristobal in the Galapagos but we weren't too far north of track. Unfortunately by afternoon we were lulling along with 5 - 8 knots of wind and a 30 degree course error. We are downloading weather now. As soon as we review the GRIBs and find some southerly wind we will start up the diesels and drive straight there.
We have been checking in on the Pan Pacific net on the SSB at 9AM, 8.143MHz. It is a nice net. Various boats underway check in from Panama to the Marquesas. Everyone provides weather at their position which can give you a basic idea of what is happening around the area. We said hi to Galletia, the boat we were rafted to on the way through the Panama Canal, as they made their way to the Marquesas.
We slogged out a tough 148 miles yesterday trying to conserve fuel and beating into the forces of mother nature all lined up to defend Ecuador's prized islands. I'm scared of what we'll post today. Hideko and I have never had to accept 4 knots of boat speed in a calm before. We would just start up the motor and go (and at a fair sight more than 1,800 RPMs). It is a long way to French Polynesia though so we have to sail if we can. We can likely fuel up in the Galapagos but we are already conserving.
Nobu says: "I started playing the Uke! (jamming with Randy)"
Ed says: "cough cough (he's almost over his cold), can't wait to meet the animals of the Galapagos! [and I can't believe we didn't catch any fish today, getting low on Tuna]"
Hideko says: "I'm still waiting for Randy to catch me a Wahoo"
486nm to go...
05/12/2008, Pacific Ocean
We have been motoring most of our second day out now. The ocean is like a lake. The ITCZ, at last check, should lose its influence around 5N (soon now). We had a lot of lightning on the horizon last night but none too close. We have used the radar to steer around some particularly black spots but it is hard to predict how things are going to move in h ITCZ.
The wind has been almost sailable a few times. We were up around 8 and a half knots under sail once but had to fire up the diesel after an hour when our wind and boat speed died. Some hard core folks will wait for the wind but we usually motor when the boat goes below 5 knots.
We caught a nice Tuna today and lost three other fish (probably too big to land). One was some kind of bill fish,it did a nice dance for us before it broke the line. It has been a nice mellow day but we're looking forward to a little more seas in order to get some sailing wind.
Nobu says: "I made Maguro (raw tuna) Bowls today, yum!"
Ed says: "Life aboard Swingin' on a Star is good!"
Hideko says: "We saw dolphins, jumping mahi mahi and we hooked a big Sailfish that got away"
600nm to go...
05/11/2008, Gulf of Panama
The sun is setting on our first day at sea as we make our way to the Galapagos. We worked hard yesterday to get the boat all ready to go and everyone turned in early. We woke up around 6AM, sunrise, to dense overcast with thunder and lightning off to the southeast. Not favorable.
Yesterday the NWS Eastern Pacific Discussion reported the ITCZ running from 7N 77W up to 10N way out at 110W. There were scattered moderate to strong thunderstorms from 80 to 84 west up to 120nm south of the ITCZ axis. We needed to cross this area to get to the Galapagos. Our plan was to head due south and go around it if it persisted.
Fortunately this morning the band from 80 to 84 fell off of the report. So we set out on a great circle (pretty close to a straight line on the chart) for San Cristobal in the Galapagos.
Underway we checked in with the Pan Pacific Net for the first time (8.143 MHz). We heard our friends on Galletia report in well on there way to the Marquesas.
We used the radar to dodge the lightning we were seeing off to port but generally stayed on our heading most of the day. It rained (more drizzle) quite a bit in the morning but by afternoon it was just dreary overcast.
We have been running the starboard engine all day as the ITCZ doesn't have much in the way of wind in it (outside of the thunderstorms of course). Most of the wind we have had has been on the nose. We did have a stint sailing at 9.2 knots (an hour at most) running under jib and main but most of the day has been main and iron genny.
We just tucked a reef in the main for the night and are settling down to enjoy the big tuna Ed caught. Seas have been pretty calm so it should be an enjoyable supper.
Nobu says: "This is the most exciting cruising of my life"
Ed says: "Fishin's been good"
Hideko says: "Galapagos here we come"
775nm to go...
05/10/2008, Isla Espiritu Santo
This anchorage is flat! It also has a nice beach on the back side of Espiritu Santo that appears as the tide goes out. A Fountaine Pajot Catamaran tied up to some trees with a stern anchor out and was high and dry by 11AM. They spent the day working on their bottom and floated off around 4PM.
We did some work on the boat finishing up projects and what not. Nobu and Ed used the windsurfer to get into the back side of the new chocks we had installed. The chocks needed to have the nuts put on but it was too choppy in the other anchorages we were in to go under the boat and remove the access plate to get at the bolts.
It is the two year mark for our shock cord holding the tramps on. This is about when they start to give way. We have two patches in place, one added today. We need to get about 80 feet of shock cord to redo both sides next time we run across it. Catamaran folks are always searching for the holy grail, tramp attachments that never need maintenance. We have nylon line tying up the front edge of our tramps. It will last forever but it doesn't stretch compared to the shock cord. This is fine for the leading edge because folks don step onto the tramps from there. I like the feel of the shock cord and it is easy to replace and not too expensive. I think we'll just replace it every two years until someone invents perpetual shock cord.
The tramp material we have, kind of a vinyl coated fine webbing, is holding up great. It is comfortable to walk on or lay on and survives the sun day in and day out. I would choose this again as well.
The other tramp plague is the sail slides, the little cars, that fit in the tracks that the tramps attach to. Many folks have these break often. We haven't lost any as of yet (knock on wood) and there are several spares installed. We'll see how long they last.
We made a first pass at gasketing the lazarettes today as well. This is an item I would hope the factory tackles on future boats. Crossing the Baranquilla coast we had some waves tops break and put a fair amount of water on the side decks. This runs about with some pounding down on the lazarette hatchs. They are not water tight and the drain channel fill easily and the excess salt water (read: evil medium of incredible corrosion) rains down on the gear in you locker (i.e. genset enclosure, folding bikes, etc...). Big following seas can be a problem as well. The shape of the lazarette opening doesn't lend itself to a 360 degree seal. We put a good seal on the aft and port/starboard sides though. This is where most of the water over flows due to the shape of the locker opening.
We knocked off all of my high priority projects while floating aimlessly about our chain between Isla del Rey and Isla Espiritu Santo. At the end of the day Swingin' on a Star was in the best shape she'd ever been in for off shore travels. Everyone shut down early in preparation for a crack of dawn departure for the Galapagos.
05/09/2008, Isla Espiritu Santo
We had a relaxing morning in Contadora as we prepped the boat for a trip farther south into the islands. Low tide was around noon so we left the anchorage around 13:00 as things flooded in. As things have been going for the last few days the wind was light and variable. So we motor sailed southeast toward the eat side of Isla del Rey, the largest island in the Las Perlas group.
The sky was pretty heavily overcast but the scenery was still beautiful. We had to keep a sharp eye on the water as there were lots of large pieces of wood and even trees floating around near the islands.
We motor sailed in the flat waters for a few hours and came to Isla Espiritu Santo. We were going to go down a little farther to Isla Canas but Espiritu Santo looked so nice we decided to pitch it in there. The water outside was pretty flat but back up behind Espiritu Santo it was dead calm. We dropped the anchor but didn't know exactly which direction to set it in. The strongest winds come north and south and we had a breeze from the west so we set up west.
A classic mono hull and a catamaran shared the large anchorage with us. We enjoyed a nice pasta dinner (the fishermen had been shut out on the way over for the first time in the Pacific) and a beautiful view nestled in amongst the islands.