We had a lazy day on the boat today. I spent much of the day under the boat removing the hub of the missing prop. The hub was still very securely bolted on and hard to remove with SCUBA. The breaker bar gave me plenty of purchase but I had no way to hold the hub still, or myself, while cranking. Eventually persistence prevailed and I got all of the pieces off and into the cockpit.
We spent many BGAN dollars making satellite calls to the Saint Francis factory in South Africa and Bruntons, the prop manufacturers, in England. I must admit that while I am fairly unhappy that the prop has gone missing, Duncan at Saint Francis and Adrian at Bruntons both were fantastic and we had a new prop in the air within 24 hours. No idea what caused the issue at this point but speculations are that something fouled the prop and forced the prop loose from the adapter hub. I have much interest in discovering how the adapter hub is attached to the prop (I though it was one secure piece previously).
Crazy plans began to develop as we considered how to get our new prop. After all we were in a two boat anchorage in Isabela, Galapagos, Ecuador. Ecuador is bad enough, the Galapagos adds insult to injury, and to try to ship to Isabela, well... Isabela does have an airstrip. That said it is host to no more than prop planes that fly to the Santa Cruz airport on irregular schedule with few exceptions.
Just as I was pondering the all of this I received an email from Margaret, a sailing buddy of ours who joined us in Cartagena for the San Blas cruise. She was writing to say that she wanted to try to join us for the Isabela to Marquisas hop! She said she would happily bring us our prop if she could arrange flights. I couldn't believe it.
In the end it didn't work out because flights out of the Marquisas were a hard to organize from Stateside. We were sad Margaret would not be joining us. We also decided that it was too risky to try to ship the prop to Isabela, particularly given the customs procedures in this country.
Our boat it tricky to handle under power at low speeds with only one prop (on the outboard end of an 8 meter wide platform). It certainly isn't disabled however. The trip to the Marquisas is all sailing and should we need to motor we only ever run one engine anyway. Getting in and out of anchorages certainly requires a bit more care but all within reason. I suppose we're just spoiled being used to the ability to spin in a circle within our own length.
After further considering our options we decided to sail for the Marquisas and impose upon our good friends Pablo and Louise. Pabs and Lou are coming to visit us in French Polynesia. They fly into Tahiti in July and we will then shuttle them up to Hiva Oa or there abouts. They kindly agreed to bring our big hunk of brass and the rest of our mail.
Having wrapped up our high priority business we fired up the genset and relaxed with a good movie and Hideko's wonderful cooking. Meanwhile the boat prepared itself for the crossing; the washer/dryer washed cloths, the water maker filled tanks (under careful supervision), the cold box cooled drinks, the air conditioning allowed us to close up and keep the bugs out (there are some annoying little bugs here at night in Isabela but none that bite have found us), the batteries charged and various other systems hummed away.
I jumped in the water first thing to see if there was an obvious problem underwater. There was. The prop was gone. I quickly called Duncan, the owner of Saint Francis Marine, to get specs for a replacement. Our boat manual lists a Flexofold prop which was no longer used on our boat. We needed a right handed 18" Varifold prop for a Yanmar Saildrive but I wanted to be exact given the $1,800ish price tag. Duncan agreed to help but it would be tomorrow before we would get the information as it was 6PM his time and 8AM our time.
We got out the SCUBA gear to do more reconnaissance. Examining the drive leg revealed a more catastrophic problem that I had originally though when snorkeling in the murky water. The prop had not just fallen off. It had sheared in two. The prop nut and hex bolt that secure it were still in place. They were securing the insides of the prop hub to the shaft but the outside of the hub and the blades were gone. The zinc was loose also.
I check the starboard side and everything was secure and tight. I can only suspect the genset vibration as a possible source of the discrepancy. It also looked as if something from the prop or something from the outside may have snagged between the hub and the zinc. I was now hoping that the saildrive had not been damaged.
As I began to unbolt the remainder of the prop hub the officer from the port captain came buy again on a Taxi after visiting Chantefoc, a new French flagged arrival. While there are water taxi's here (two from what I understand) things are so quiet that they don't work long hours. You can try them during daylight on 16 and they will generally be around but not always.
The officer had brought a friend. They hopped aboard and waved off the Taxi. I looked at him inquiringly from the water with full scuba on and tools in hand. He seemed surprised I actually had a problem. Fernando (Carmella's gopher on San Cristobal) and Victor (Carmella's husband) will tell you that you can visit other islands for a day or two by simply saying you have a diesel problem. This speaks to their integrity and the skepticism of the Isabela officials when you claim a mechanical difficulty. All of the port captains are in contact and the San Cristobal guy is the big boss since that is the official capital (even though Santa Cruz is much larger population wise and economically).
I indicated that I was in the middle of something and inquired as to what they needed. He said something I didn't understand and I asked them if they minded waiting. They did. So I got out of the water changed out of my wet suit dried off and attended them.
The official was saying something I couldn't understand but for the most part it seemed they wanted to gawk at our boat and hit us up for beer. I left the repairs of my boat for this. The new guy, young, took pictures of the saloon of our boat while the older guy continued on in Spanish, knowing we didn't understand. Then they asked for a beer. Hideko gave them two from the cold box. The officer suggested we should give them colder ones. I told them that was as cold as we had and that if there was nothing else I'd like to get back to fixing my boat.
He agreed and told me to take them ashore. They pounded their beers so as not to be seen ashore drinking. Seeing no end to the abuse of power in sight, I dried off the rest of the way, got a shirt and took them to the dock. As they departed I was assured that all was in order and that I would just need to stop by tomorrow to finalize some things. That would make three days in a row dealing with officials who didn't even give me any new paperwork (he told me to use the Zarpe from San Cristobal).
I don't mind official who are formal and do official business. I don't mind official who are informal and want to relax and have a beer and a chat. I do mind official who use their station to trump up phony fees, unnecessary visits to my home and other trivialities. So far I have not been impressed by the Ecuadorian brass.
On the way back to the boat I met Julian on board Chatefoc. He is a very nice single hander who was looking to stay in Isabela for a day using the old maintenance ploy. I warned him that these officials were a hassle and that I had paid $170 to stay, and I really had a problem. He told me that he had cleared in himself in Santa Cruz and only paid $130. He also said it was crowded and more touristy than Isabela.
If I had it to do again I might just come to Isabella and leave it at that. Pay the fees (less than San Cristobal) and see everything on one island, then move on. Isabela has everything San Cristobal has plus volcanoes, penguins and much more in a more natural peaceful setting.
I offered to give Julian a ride as his dinghy was stowed. He hopped on and I motored by Swingin' on a Star to see if Hideko and Nobu wanted to visit the town while we waited for Julian to clear in. The response was positive so the four of us set out for the stone pier. I figured I had been through twice so perhaps I was ready for the challenge. The surf was considerably larger today. As we approached I could find no one spot without a break. Everytime I had though I found the pass a wave would come and crash down and the pass moved 5 meters to the side. After a very slow approach I decided to retreat. We motored back to the anchorage and then followed the line of fishing boats anchored on the perimeter of the bay around to the town dock.
A friendly local showed us where to tie up. The people of Ecuador are wonderful, kind, warm and friendly (with the possible exception of the officials). The dock is modest but beautiful and set into the mangrove lined volcanic shoreline of the bay. As we walked up to the road another official stopped us. We informed that we didn't ablo espaniol. He went of for some time about a problema. We told him that we were going to the capitania. He still went on, saying we needed to get Carmella to get us new Zarpe, among other things. Finally we got a tour guide (these guys always speak English) to help us. The official finally let us go.
At the capitania the official I had been dealing with asked why I was there. I said that I was just dropping another person off when an official told me I had a problem. He said no, you have no problem. Just come back tomorrow with a picture of you broken prop and you can take 9 or 10 days to fix you problem.
We left Julian to his fate and walked down the pier to the little bar at then end. Isabela is truly remote and gorgeous as and island. Repairs and officials aside it is a spectacular place to visit. We played on the kids playground on the beach and waded in the tide pools fringed with black lava as we finished our large cervasas from the pier's beach bar. The sunset was magnificent but it spurred me to see what was keeping Julian as we didn't want to have to dinghy about at low tide in the dark.
Exasperated he had waited for 2 hours to no avail, the official that he needed was not around. We all took a leisurely walk back to the dock and began a careful idle around the bay with new rocks popping up through the low water everywhere toward the center of the bay. As we passed by the outer rocky islands we spied some big lumpy birds on the shore. I turned the boat and puttered over. They were Galapagos Penguins. They were so cool. We couldn't wait to watch them go into the water in the morning when they feed. It was our last big check box for Galapagos Fauna completed.
As we neared the anchorage, the official who had previously stopped us on the dock was returning. He stopped us again in mid water. You can't set eyes on these guys without them announcing some self important business it seems. They aren't organized enough to get anything done in one stroke. Julian it seemed had to return to shore with him. We said goodbye to Julian and told him that we would listen on 16 if he needed a ride.
Having gotten nothing done all day due to the ridiculous official interruptions we returned to Swingin' on a Star for dinner. Shortly thereafter Julian called on 16 and asked for a pickup. Nobu and I carefully puttered along the fringe of the bay to get him. Once aboard he indicated that they wanted money or his immediate departure. He offered his immediate departure. We were sad to see Julian go and promised to look for him in Tahiti.
Late that night we were running the genset to fill up the water tanks and do some laundry so that we would not have to do either underway. At about 9PM we began to notice a eerie red glow on the horizon. Cerro Azul was erupting. Speachless, Hideko, Nobu and I sat on deck and stared and the flowing red colors that lit the black night sky. It was an experience that completely wiped away the frustration of the day and made us once again realize how small a price a little adversity was in exchange for sight few ever see with their own eyes. I called Julian on the VHF to tell him to look back but he had disappeared into the night.
We got up at 5AM to get the boat ready for an 80 nautical mile passage to Isabella, one of the western most islands in the Galapagos. It took us about 45 minutes to get everything ready to go, not to mention the time spent yesterday.
We motored out of the anchorage just as the sun was peeking over the San Cristobal highlands. We put up the main and rolled out the jib just outside of the harbor, falling off to 264 degrees true, a direct course for Villamil, the only real town in Isabella.
The true wind was light at around 13 knots but is was in our sweet spot, on the beam. We averaged 9 knots for most of the run. This brought us to the Villamil approach at about 15:00. We initially made a line for Isla Tortuga just south of Isabela at 1 degree south. There was a dead bit as we passed north of Floreana where the wind died down to 5 knots or so. We waited it out and in 15 minutes or so things were coming back. Before long we were back up to speed and closing on Tortuga.
Tortuga looks to be the north half of a large volcano cone just popping its head above water. The south part of the cone is inscribed on the charts as an underwater obstruction. We sailed north of it, staying well south of Roca Bura and the reef line that runs back to Isabela from its position. Tortuga is definitely an alien landscape with black rock predominating and rivulets of erosion and old lava flows running down its sides.
We sailed for a mark in the neighborhood of 01 south 091 west. At this point you have cleared the off shore reef (really rocks not reef) and head into shore on a bearing of 029 degrees true using the green buoy and shore based light as a transit. We cut this corner a bit watching our British Admiralty chart and the sounder carefully. When we reached the transit line we started the engines and dropped the sails. While I couldn't be sure, it seemed like we weren't getting the thrust I expected.
We motored in on the green buoy and then turned due east to make for the red and green marks up the coast. This takes you behind the rocky shoal toward the anchorage. Waves break to port on the coast and to starboard on the rocky shoal, which is always interesting. Once through the red and green marks you make directly for the large orange mark which sits at the entrance to the anchorage.
There are two places you can go ashore. There is a rock pier with stone steps leading down to the water off the beach to the west with waves breaking all over the place. The town dock is up the coast a bit to the west but you must inscribe the largest possible arc around the bay to get there safely as there are rocky shoals all through the little protected harbor.
Most boats anchor just inside the orange mark. If you head a bit farther in to the southeast you can get out of any swell that might be sneaking in. The anchorage is formed by the coast of Isabela and a collection of little rocky islands that rise a foot or two over the high tide mark.
As we came into the anchorage we targeted the area in past the other three boats to give everyone lots of room. The anchorage had one cruising yacht and two tour boats when we arrived. As we passed the sail boat and head south I noticed a strange lack of control centered around the port engine. Further testing confirmed that the port engine was revving but no thrust was resulting in forward or reverse.
Luckily we have two auxiliaries, unluckily I was now driving the boat with one motor mounted 4 meters from the centerline. I decided exploring the fringes of the anchorage to get the best spot was no longer prudent. Hideko was on the fore deck with Nobu readying the anchor. I told them we had an issue and needed to get anchored smoothly with little help from the auxiliaries and preferably in amongst the other boats where we knew the ground was clear and good.
Catamarans do not need to have way on to maneuver quite like mono hulls. With two props 8 meters apart you can pretty much wiggle in anywhere. However with one prop way outboard things get tricky. Prop wash works but not as well as it would with a mono hull. There's no prop walk because the sail drives place the prop at a 90 degree angle to the surface, making both sides of the prop travel through the water at the same angle. You can go ahead but you need steerageway to invoke the rudder. You can go astern but you get a big doughnut shape arc due to the prop location.
I let the wind blow us back clear of the sailboat to starboard. Once out of the way I revved up the starboard engine to get steerage quickly. After that we selected the safest, not most comfortable, spot to drop the hook and got the anchor down. I couldn't really keep the bow up so we just blew off sideways in the wind. Once on the bridle I did manage to set the anchor with the remaining engine.
We had only planned a day or two visit to Isabela. This was not a happy occurrence. I tried hard but could only imagine one thing having this effect that would not fall into the "fairly serious" category. My dearest hope was that it was just the transmission cable.
As we talked about how to investigate this occurrence the port captain representative arrived. He spoke very little English and our Spanish had not constructively improved since San Cristobal. I told him we had a problem. He climbed on the boat said quite a bit, but I retained "come to the Capitania office in the next hour or two". He pointed at the blue roofed building straight through the crashing surf and then he left.
Not excited about putting our dinghy down and figuring out how to get through the breaks at dusk I began to ponder my options. Hideko saw one of the charter boats heading into shore and hailed them. One of the men spoke pretty good English and offered to take me ashore. I gratefully accepted. The route in to the stone pier on the west end of town is gnarly. I would not try this until you have gone with a local several times. There is one spot where it "usually" doesn't break between a vicious line of rocks running along the east coast and off shore to the into the west. In general you make a straight line from the anchorage to the corner of the pier but you must veer to port to stay off the coastal rocks (a large clump just under water is very hard to see), the head starboard straight into shore until you get past the breakers to port, then back to port to run along just inside of the break, carefully watching for any strays.
The pier is really an enhanced lava rock point with a stone staircase set into an small lee area behind the wall with room for maybe four dinghies packed in tight. The man running the tour boat and I got off safely and, duly impressed, I thanked him and the driver. I made a mental note to ask how to navigate into the town dock for future reference.
The Capitania's office is right on the beach and it only took a minute to walk down the beautiful pier and across the wonderful and peaceful beach area to the gate. The man who had come to the boat said hello and after much Spanish I could not make out told me to make copies of my documents down the street for him. So I waked to the corner, noticing that all of the streets in Isabela are just sand. The island is very natural and the foreign aid that has helped build the organic street lights made from knurled bits of wood and surreal looking glass globes has done much to preserve the feeling on the Galapagos even in the small town of Villamil.
After paying my 10 cents per page at the phone center where many locals make use of the only phones they have access to, I returned to the port captain. We could stay one day (I felt I could have bargained for two) or pay the port fees we paid in San Cristobal all over again and stay as long as we wanted (with an unspoken limit implied). I tried to tell him that two days might be sufficient but I didn't know until I inspected the problem and sorted out any parts I might need. No of this seemed to stick. In the end I just paid his fees so that we could be left in peace (little did I know this was not to be).
We paid about $500 all told in San Cristobal. A chunk of this was an agent fee of $150 to Carmella Romero. This is basically vigorish as you pretty much do everything yourself. Carmella doesn't speak a word of English so there's not even that to her credit. The port captain wants you to use an agent though, you can imagine why, so it is best to do so. The port captain charged us for a displacement of 45 tons because that is our coast guard listed gross tonnage. I tried to explain that this was silly because the boat weights 15 tons and that the gross tonnage is not related to the boats weight in non commercial applications such as yachts. He told me to take it up with the coast guard and charged me $277 total including the $135 for the tonnage. We paid various other $15ish fees to immigration (the police station) and for the Zarpe (clearance out).
The officials in some cultures just feel slimy to me. You grease their palms and all is well. You want to be treated fairly and do things by the book, look out. Ecuador is rated as the second most corrupt country in Central and South America. I would not contest this. There are no clear guidelines as to how you will be treated or what you will pay. If the port captain doesn't like the way you look he can tell you to leave then and there and this is completely within his jurisdiction. It almost feels as if they charge as much as they think you can or will pay.
Unfortunately this is a top to bottom problem in Ecuador. It seems as if all of the ambitious folks in the society believe this is how you should behave. Many have never known anything else. It will take a long time to change the culture.
But I digress. The official continued to ask me how long we would stay. I repeated told him I didn't know, I hadn't even had a chance to look at the problem. If I needed a part flown in how long would that take. He said he didn't know and ask how long I would stay. In the end I gave up and said I would pay to stay since it was unlikely that I would leave in 48 hours at this point. He said that if we did that there was no charge. I convinced him that our sail boat weighted 15 tons and so he only charged me $45 for weight. My total bill was $170, the last $20 added in probably because I didn't contest the $150 number hard enough. There was no receipt forthcoming.
Hideko had wisely handed me the portable VHF as I jumped into the skiff on the way to shore. I now had to figure out how to get back to the boat. It would be unsafe for Hideko and Nobu to try to get to the pier and I wasn't sure how to get to the dock on land or how to safely arrive by dinghy either. Fortunately I found the gentleman who had brought me over relaxing at the bar on the rock pier. He offered to take me back and I gratefully accepted again.
The surf was coming up and the ride back was even a bit more interesting. I was still holding out hope that we might fix the boat, tour the island and leave in time to reclaim our fees.
06/01/2008, Wreck Bay
This morning we caught Roq and a sea lion cautiously observing each other across the iron curtain. It was pretty comical to watch them. Today would be the last day for the barbed wire barrier though.
For every day you are at anchor you will need one half hour to prepare your boat. Thus after one night you can get underway in a half hour. After two weeks you will need seven hours. This assumes no projects. It took us all day today to get the dive gear tidied up and stowed dry, all of the tools and parts stowed, last minute shopping done, books, magazines and all manner of other things ship shape. We were here 15 days so 7.5 hours sounds about right.
You can of course keep your boat more ship shape than we do at anchor. This is also not a bad idea. If something unpredictable occurs you may need to leave quickly. We always try to keep the boat in reasonable condition so that in an emergency we could move out quickly but when you open up a dive shop on the back porch and have the dinghy in the water, a certain amount of minimum effort is involved.
At then end of the day we decided not to rush. We had also decided to try to visit Isabella, one of the western most islands in the Galapagos. Isabella is about 80 nautical miles away and has a trickier entrance than San Cristobal. We wanted to arrive during daylight so we planned to get up early and be out by daybreak. With our plan in place we made an early night of it.
05/31/2008, Wreck Bay
More repairs. We knocked off the first 7 items on the list by the end of the day. Numbers one through nine are priorities but not musts so we wrapped up the repair program at the end of the day..
Often, if not always, working on the boat is fun. It is a labor of love, especially when you can improve something.
We have gotten much utility out of our Wind Surfer while working on the boat. Our old dinghy could fit under the bridge deck but it didn't leave much room to work and the new dinghy can't really make the squeeze. The board makes a perfect platform for underbody repairs.
05/30/2008, Wreck Bay
We spent the day today prepping the boat for our crossing. We have an unusually long list of projects. There's always a list of projects on a boat. When we were researching boats I told myself, self, we'll buy a new boat and then we won't be fixing it all the time like all of these other people I keep hearing about. Nope. It doesn't work like that. If you leave your boat in a yard, things break from disuse. If you use your boat constantly thing break from use. If you use your boat half the time you get both angles. A new boat may break a little less but it is still a boat.
We purchased our boat from the factory as a 10 month old demo. She is now two and a half years young. We have maintained her as best we could with the services available to a circumnavigator, sparing little expense for quality. This typically means buying the best parts and doing things yourself. If you are not already, you must quickly become a skilled mechanic, electrician and even possibly an electronics specialist.
Our condensed version of our present list looks like this:
1. Figure out why 2 solar panels are not putting out
2. Service the genset (just ate another impeller)
3. Replace dead engine room and head sump RuleMate pumps (unused these fail in 3-6 months for some reason)
4. Reinstall jackline under port bridge deck (mysteriously vanished in the San Blas)
5. Reinstall one backing plate for boat rack (nuts welded to plate to give a clean look have been hard to mate to bolts), plate is not holding two bolts and is not bedded properly [this was an after market addition of course]
6. Install some snaps for cockpit enclosure (last of 3 canvas folks did not work on the boats, only the canvas) [also after market]
7. Finalize temporary Water Maker repairs [after market]
8. Figure out why the AIS isn't working [after market]
9. Figure out why the NEMA output to the VHF and SSB isn't working
10. Figure out why the fridge is dripping lots of condensation onto floor
11. Repair a broken head faucet
12. Replace a broken draw string on one of the saloon blinds
13. Install new stripes (factory stripes were incomplete and fenders have taken their toll on what we have)
14. Replace anchor light and tri color fixture with LED unit (current one burns through anchor lights every 6 months)
15. Replace dive flag (Westmarine purchase corroded in about a year an a half) [aftermarket]
This of course doesn't even mention standard maintenance and cleaning. Though this stuff can get you down sometimes, we, of course, love out boat and we love cruising. The key is to not to let these repairs get in the way of your travels and experiences. Have fun, enjoy where you are and the people you meet. Make separate time for repairs and then close the book when it is time to enjoy the world.
Preventative maintenance is very helpful. Almost every time I'm in the engine room I find broken hose clamps and what not. I have found shackles barely attached that hadn't been seized in the rigging when walking the deck. It pays to be observant and to repair little things that are awry immediately.
We have an admittedly complex boat. There are those with no auxiliary and a bucket for a head. I think we're on the other end of the spectrum and have the large list to go with it. That said, from what I have seen, our list is short by the standards of some. We like to have everything working. Some don't bother with anything that is not critical until the annual haul out. Either philosophy is fine. I'm going for an empty list though. We still have plenty on a seperate list for our Australian refit in 2009.
We shut down at the end of the day to enjoy another spectacular sunset.
05/29/2008, Wrech Bay
Ed finished the Dive Master program today. Congratulations Ed!
As usual we had to kick (not literally) several sea lions off of the back porch to make way for diving. The good thing about this is that instead on sleeping on our transom all day they are forced to get in the water and play around while we dive. The little ones are the most playful but the cows are also inquisitive. The big bulls are territorial and usually not found out and about. They're better left alone anyway.
Ed had two dives left to do which we did from the back of the boat. I had to do a six month service on the dive compressor before filling the tanks for the day. Our Brownies YP35 is a great unit. The Brownies team did a wonderful job installing it as well. Everyone is always impressed when they see how clean the setup is. The compressor is electric and located in the hull opposite the genset. Air is pulled from inside the boat and the fill station is mounted in the tank locker and setup to fill all four tanks at once.
Our tanks are in the cockpit coming locker sized by Saint Francis to be a perfect fit for four 80cf tanks. We had to grind out the opening a bit but once you make that modification the locker securely stores all 4 tanks. We have two 80s for deep or long dives and two 63s for those who are easy on air and don't like to tote around a big old 80 (that would be Hideko and I).
I think the Brownies factory put the incorrect belt on our compressor (the belt allows the electric motor to drive the compressor) when they installed it. The brand new belt shredded itself, making a huge mess in the locker, in the first 10 hours. After that it slipped more and more often. They sent me a new belt at no charge however and after installing it I can tell that it is going to be much better. No slipping and no chaffing after the first few hours.
Our compressor is Bauer based (as most small units seem to be) and requires two new filters every six months. These are $90 ach from Brownies. Pricey but it sure is nice to be able to dive whenever you want, dive shop or no. It is also very helpful when working on the boat. So bottom line, the compressor costs $360 a year after the initial investment (installed it was close to $15,000 so not exactly cheap).
We had a celebration dinner at the Miconia for Ed. We were all happy for Ed but also sad because he would be leaving us tomorrow as we prepped for departure.