We hiked around Fatu Hiva today. The town is pretty small and we walked through most of the village quickly. Many of the people smiled and said hello as we passed. Unlike the Caribbean no one here is looking for money or trying to sell you something. An old mad gave us a huge bunch of bananas and would accept no payment. The people are simply wonderful and many the world over could learn from their kind unassuming demeanor. They are truly happy in their paradise.
We took various roads up into the hills. We explored farms and trails, hills and valleys, but never caught sight of the elusive waterfall. It hasn't rained much lately so there may no be one at present. It was a challenging hike regardless and we got some great exercise over the several hours afoot.
We tried to find eggs but couldn't locate any. Vegetables are also hard to come by. Fruits, in particular the huge sweet grapefruits, are easy to come by. From what we have found perfume is the high value trading item, that and rum. Buy a case of $3 a bottle rum in Panama and you will have all the fruit you want.
Nobu says: "We walked through the jungle with no trails today!"
Hideko says: "People here are so wonderful, they do kind things for you without expecting anything in return. It makes you want to pass the kindness it on."
We are still using the HF radio to post blog updates (and do everything else). This prohibits posting pictures which is a shame because this place is indescribable. We will post a picture for each day as soon as we get to a WiFi or shore based internet outlet.
Fatu Hiva is pretty isolated as places go. There is no airport (and certainly no place to put one). A water shuttle runs to Hiva Oa and there is a road between the two towns with a few four wheelers plying it (2 hours one way). I have not met anyone who has made the hike to the other town. A couple of guys we talked to walked for five hours and felt like they were just past half way so they turned back. Fatu Hiva does have a phone or three though and, of course, you can get fresh French Baguettes. These are truly amazing and you could not get better in Paris.
We cleaned the entire boat up today and Nobu did the entire water line (thanks Nobu!!). It wasn't too bad but things do get in a state after a two week rambunctious passage.
Late in the afternoon we went diving on the south side of the bay. It was pretty nice with good vis and a wide variety of fish. The sheer cliffs run straight down to the bottom at about 80 feet. Huge boulders near the point provide shelter for massive schools of grunts and the like.
We wrapped up the day with a nice dinner and watched Mutiny on the Bounty (the 1935 best picture version). It was perfect.
Nobu says: "Today was my first time to try to catch Lobster spear fishing!"
Hideko says: "I can't describe how beautiful Fatu Hiva is above and below the water."
06/24/2008, South Pacific
Day 16 got cut short at about 135 miles due to our arrival in Faut Hiva. It was certainly the most spectacular and anticipated landfall we have ever experienced. We were at sea for 15 days and 22 hours. It was a wonderful passage. No bad weather, good wind for most of the trip and, other than an obnoxious mixed wave pattern here and there, all you could ask for in a two week trip.
Fatu Hiva is perhaps the most beautiful anchorage we have ever been in. The hills are so lush and green and the rock spires and sheer cliffs are just as you would imagine when contemplating an idyllic south pacific island. There is a nice secure quay behind a break water and you can see the bottom easily at 30 feet.
We spent a lot of the day finding a good spot. Our first attempt was close in but the bottom on the north east side of the bay is all rock bottom. The winds are light but I just didn't want to lie to a bight of chain. After a snorkel we found the sand line at 30 feet. Unfortunately there are a number of boats in the bay and the only free spaces were filling up quickly. Two other boats arrived after us leaving the outside as the only real option. Maneuvering in close quarters at low speed with one prop 4 meters off of the center line is tricky to say the least. We finally came to rest in 60 feet of water. Conditions are clam and it is crowded (small bay and nine boats, folks in front, behind and to the the left, with a rock wall to the right) so we are sitting on 200 feet of chain.
The wind comes from the east at night but around 11AM it switches to a sea breeze blowing everyone onto shore. The switch happened right while we were re-anchoring which made things interesting. It is supposed to howl down the valley when the wind is up but the trades are in the single digits for the next two days.
Our friends on Enki, a Halberg Rassy 48, were here in the bay when we arrived. Nobu and I had just finished cleaning up the outside of the boat when they stopped by for a chat. We probably need another day of clean up before Swingin' on a Star is back in proper shape after two weeks of 24 hour watches.
We took a dinghy ride around the bay and nearby cliffs in the afternoon. It is all impressive with sheer cliffs, steep slopes covered in palms and grasses and rocky towers shooting up from the surf with keyhole passages carved into them.
Some friends we met in Shelter Bay, Panama were here when we arrived and invited us to the evenings cruiser party. It was a lot of fun mixing with all of the salty passage makers. Great folks all.
Back at the boat Hideko fed us dinner and made a cake. Yum. Everyone will sleep long and hard tonight.
Nobu says: "It was a great passage on Swingin' on a Star"
Hideko says: "Fatu Hiva was worth traveling 3,000 miles to see. When I saw the anchorage I forgot about the passage."
06/23/2008, South Pacific
Day 15 (24 hour day) wrapped up at noon with a meager 135 miles made good. It may have been a fair bit more over ground but we were 20 degrees off our mark jibing back and forth losing around a half knot of way in the VMG. The day was nice but with a nasty chop making it tough to walk around the boat and relax. The chop faded over the day though and by midnight we were sailing in very calm conditions. We actually ran wing and wing for several hours, making 6 knots of way with 8 knots of wind in the cockpit. As boat speed dropped to around 3 knots and the wind began to come from everywhere and nowhere the starboard aux cam up and we switched into trawler mode again.
We're running the motor at about 1,700 rpm which is peak torque. This hopefully provides optimal way per liter of fuel. We are doing 6.5 to 7 knots at present and computations show consumption of about 0.6 gallons per hour. We also need to avoid going any faster so as to arrive after sunrise.
Arrival? Oh yeah we are actually going somewhere. It will be strange to see land again. We are timing things for a 8AM arrival in the Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia. This will make our crossing come to 15 days and some odd hours. We'll fly the Q flag for the day and stay aboard, making way for Nuka Hiva and inbound clearance the next morning. It is supposed to be calm for a few days so we'll see.
Nobu says: "Almost there"
Hideko says: "After studying French Cuisine I decided to start studying the language as well. My first phase is ou sont les toilettes?"
92 nm to Fatu Hiva
06/22/2008, South Pacific
We wrapped up our 14th day with a 175 mile run. We had hoped that the 1,460 miles we did in week one would follow through and place us at anchor on day 14/15. The light wind and calms a couple days back and the moderate winds this whole week have made that tough. We have not run the engine more than 18 hours or so in the calms middle of last week but it has been tempting.
We flew the spinnaker all afternoon but were still lucky to see 7 knots of SOG given the apparent wind speed of 6-9 knots. Even though things are supposed to get even lighter we are still too chicken to leave it up at night. It is not hard to get down but if something goes wrong you would be unhappy at night. Also the weather man never says anything about squalls. A nice little 30 knoter would tear our kite apart.
We are in a celestial navigation routine also. We are doing a 5 star shot at civil twilight near dawn or sunset, morning sun and afternoon sun lines, and a noon site. We have shot the moon a few times but it has been full and the moon lines have no cut with the sun lines when you shoot them together so it is not really helpful.
We are now back to Fatu Hiva as our first landfall. We will probably just fly the Q flag and stay aboard to observe the regulations. It will be nice to sleep at anchor and at least see Fatu Hiva. From there we will likely head out to Nuku Hiva to check in. After looking at the guides we will probably spend most of our time in the northern Marquesas.
We could tell we were getting close to land as we actually saw other life forms not native to the ocean. A freighter lookin' thing and what was probably a tuna boat passed at some distance. We have seen three other cruising boats as we passed them and talked to four or five on the VHF as we crossed out of sight but in radio range the whole rest of the trip.
We probably can't go fast enough in the ever decreasing wind to make landfall before dusk tomorrow so we will just float along targeting anchor down the next morning. This will make our transit 15 days and change. Not bad all things considered.
Nobu says: "We are going to shoot stars tonight!"
Hideko says: "I love flying the spinnaker, the seas are calm but the boat still moves well"
226 nm to the dirt
06/21/2008, South Pacific
We managed 180 miles under sail for day 13. If we can hold this pace we will arrive in Fatu Hiva the day after tomorrow, late in the day. We plan to anchor there for the night and then depart for Nuku Hiva, the port of entry, early in the morning the next day. We are sailing as fast as we can because the day after tomorrow the wind is supposed to die.
The sailing last night and today has been wonderful. Only 7 or 8 knots of boat speed in the light wind (10-15 true) but beautiful blue skies and a breeze that is just cool enough to keep things comfortable in the sun. The swell out here this time of year is often (always for us) mixed with some coming from the direction of the wind (which is fine) and some from the SW, right on the beam (which is really obnoxious). It comes and it goes though.
Dinner was a yummy macadamia nut crusted tuna. We have been eating a lot of tuna. We took the day off for fishing. It was a relaxing day spent mostly on celestial navigation and preparing for landfall.
Nobu says: "I am progressing in my celestial navigation skills, little by little"
Hideko says: "I read the French Laundry Cookbook from cover to cover today"
383 nm to go... (back to Fatu Hiva now)
06/20/2008, South Pacific
Day 12, for the second day in a row, saw a meager 160 miles under the keel. The two days with very light wind from the east impacted our VMG (velocity made good) heavily. Not only did we proceed slowly but we have had to jibe along the track line due to the wind angle. We sail nicely at 135 degrees off the wind. Anything much deeper and we lose too much boat speed to make up for with the better angle. The evening closed in with showers in the neighborhood. None hit us but they were playing with the wind in the area as the night went by.
Early in the morning the wind came up and we began to post hours in the high 8 knots. The average came down throughout the day but we are still turning out a good 7 knots in lighter winds at sunset. We have a mixed swell which makes things a little rolly in the boat but not too bad. The day was beautiful and we all enjoyed it. Blue sky with fair weather cumulus here and there.
I was determined to catch some dinner today. We were trawling at 8-9 knots and I hooked something big with a pink squid lure (famous for Mahi Mahi). In the excitement the instructions to the helm got confused and we sped up! Well the line broke in short order as we approached 10 knots. Undaunted we put out one of our last squid lures (we lost the other pink squid yesterday due to what appears to be a bad knot at the swivel). Within 30 minutes we had a strike. As I tried to reel it in I was constantly concerned that the line would break. It was a big sucker and he was pulling hard.
After a 20 minute fight we finally got him to the boat. Nobu snagged him with the boat hook and we had a flopping 30 pound tuna on the deck. This is our biggest fish yet. Probably about as big as we ever need to catch. It will take three days of tuna breakfast, lunch and dinner to finish this guy off.
Nobu and I shot two sun lines today as well as a noon sight. We're getting much more accurate with practice.
Nobu says: "Celestial navigation is complicated but very interesting"
Hideko says: "zzzz (sleeping before her watch)"
615 nm to go...