Progress at the yard. The old stickers are off and the Sticker Guru responsible for all of the Moorings and Sunsail charter boats around here is going to help me put the new ones on! I haven't played with stickers since grade school and they always came out crazy then. I would hate to imagine what I would do to our boat unsupervised.
I am running out of bottom work to do so I took the afternoon off and enjoyed a lovely day with Hideko at Raiatea Lodge.
With the few local exceptions pretty much all of the food here in FP comes from New Zealand. Oliver, the chef/owner at The Raiatea Lodge, is not afraid to get out there either. We have seen Ostrich and Kangaroo on the menu along with the old Tahitian stand bys like Tuna and Rib Eye.
Today we got a lot done at the yard. The bottom got two coats of paint and a couple extra at the water line. We went through the standard six cans to coat everything well.
The rain threatened, which seems to be my luck, as it poured in between painting sessions in Grenada. Other than a little sprinkle though we had no real rain today. The Raiatea Lodge, on the other hand, is right at the bottom of a rain funneling draw. It can really get going there. It never last more than a few minutes though so it is perfect. You can just go in for a coffee when there's a little shower and in exchange you get a lush garden to enjoy when the sun comes back out five minutes later.
Fred had the rudder all epoxied up and was fairing it and prepping it for foam injection. That put the two biggest projects in good stead.
Unfortunately the old stripe stickers were still on the boat. I hope the yard guys come through here as I am not looking forward to peeling these suckers myself. Some guys have the touch and they are not me. It took me forever to get the boot stripe off of the sterns so that I could raise the water line a little aft.
We have not had any reason to raise the factory waterline except in the transom area. This area can get and stay pretty moist though because it is so low and flat in the first place, and when we load up the new dink it gets a little lower.
We also had some nasty gel coat like stuff on the starboard stern at the waterline. This is the kind of thing the yard guys sort of gloss over. It took me half a day to clean up so that the bottom paint could be applied properly. I can only assume it was the result of some spillage into the water, perhaps when the guys were doing the glass work in the Grenada lagoon. Not sure but I am sure it was no fun to clean up and probably pretty harsh on the environment when it happened.
The Canvas guy completed some minor improvements to the cockpit enclosure we have today. It is still not exactly the way we want it but getting closer. The local canvas guy is a great Italian character. He's fun to work with and has a wonderful attitude. He does good work and pretty much on time but he only had the materials he has, which is to say nit much. The work he did for us was with non UV resistant thread. I would have probably skipped the effort if I had known because it will likely have to be redone in three years or so. If you have your own material and thread or just need some repairs I would recommend him (get the name and number of the Italian Canvas guy from Dominic at Raiatea Carenage).
Propane tanks came back and they said they could not fill them (I suspect due to the US spec valves). The unhappy part is that one was a third full and the other was a quarter full when they went out and they are now empty. Doesn't bode well for our culinary pleasure back on the boat. Dominic is going to see what he can do.
The island of Ra'iatea is not known around the globe like Bora Bora. However, in the 18th century this island was the center of religious beliefs for much of Polynesia and the home of the principal Marae of "Oro", the god of war. Polynesians from New Zealand, The Cook Islands and Hawaii came to pay homage at Taputapuatea where the God Oro was worshipped. Coming to French Polynesia by modern sailboat took some time and I can not say it was always fun and comfortable. So influencing people to come to this island from so far away by canoe demonstrates the great power this religious site possessed.
Before we reached the marae, we drove from the Northwest of the island around to the South side the long way. Once you leave the main town of Uturoa, there aren't that many cars going by. It was a very relaxing drive.
We saw many huts built on the shallow lagoons about 5 seconds by boat away from shore. I wonder if these are island versions of tree houses that kids can play in. There are many rivers on the island and we spotted a water fall from the side of Mt. Aahinui. Many breadfruit (when you cook breadfruit, it is like potatoe), banana, mango and papaya trees were growing along the road.
The most important marae, Taputapuatea was in about 5 acres of land right by the water. There were not just one but a several different marae of different sizes in the park. The small black coral stones were laid on the floor and bigger coral stones with flat surfaces were standing very impressively. It was hard to imagine that this was one of the most sacred place to worship the Polynesian gods. When we were there, there was only one other local couple visiting.
As we drove the islands we saw churches full of Polynesians, not marae. It was Sunday so there were many dressed up people, women with fancy hats singing, most singing inside the churches.
We decided to rent a car and go around the island since the boat yard is closed on the weekend. The rental car showed up at 8 o'clock as we requested. We were usually at the breakfast table at 7 o'clock this week but somehow we both did not want to get up that early this morning. Forcing our sleepy bodies downstairs, we received the car and we sat at our usual breakfast table. Oliver served a couple of coffee, baguettes, home made coconut jam, papaya with vanilla jam and yummy eggs.
I was ready for an island excursion but after the week of hard work, Randy's body wanted to get a rest. So instead of driving around the island, we spent the day enjoying the lovely Raiatea Lodge Hotel's scenery and people and good food.
It was another long day at the boat yard. I was having troubles getting Micron 66 locally and I had begun the unpleasant process of trying to identify a paint I would be happy with that didn't require a complete strip of the existing antifouling. The bottom had been painted only 10 or 11 months ago and it was in pretty good shape, I was loath to scrape it all off at $300 a can!
Just as I was digging through my Practical Sailors in earnest Valeria, the office manager came through with the 66 but in black. The paint on there was blue but hey, I'll take pink if it means a light sand and paint away. Better yet they could have it tomorrow! I guess Raiatea has a pretty good connection with Papeete.
In the mean time I prepped and painted the drive legs with Trilux. I used the spray can last time around but Dominic only had gallon cans of brush on. He let me borrow a little from an open can they had. The drive legs were black but of course the paint the yard had was white. The designer genes in me suggest that a blue hull with black drive legs make for the best fashion statement, but since I'm not looking to make a fashion statement and probably don't have any designer genes anyway a black hull with white drives will have to do.
I managed to get the zincs installed, the props prepped, lubed and installed, all with healthy doses of loctite.
Fred had the rudder shaft glassed back into the right side of the shell by the end of the day. The rudder project is a hurry up and wait affair. The shaft took a day to go to town, get in the press and come back. Then once the rudder shells are clean it has to be glassed in, which requires a four plus hour pause at the end for curing. Next the halves need to be glassed together, followed by curing. Then the beast needs to be faired and filled with foam. Then the foam holes are sealed and the rudder is primed, pause. Antifouling coat one, pause. Coat two pause. You get the idea. All of this with the majority being in epoxy for water protection and secondary bond strength.
I was trying to drive a Monday splash but it was looking tough. Still no bottom paint and no work on the new stickers, both big projects.
Back at the Raiatea Lodge Hideko and I enjoyed a sunset game of Patonk and another wonderful meal cooked up by Oliver. Eric and Oliver both try to teach me French at every turn. I am trying and making some progress but their English is too good to force the issue.
It was a standard day in the yard. I pulled our propane tanks and gas jugs for filling. I also pulled the props and zincs. The zincs were in pretty good shape but not good enough for me to skip the easy opportunity to replace them.
The Raiatea Carenage has a lot of the necessities but they didn't have Yanmar Zincs. Fortunately the Raiatea Marine shop, a whopping 5 seconds across the dirt, had Plastimo replacements for the Yanmars. They fit and they were zinc so I bought them.
The props were an interesting contrast. The port prop was brand new and installed maybe a month back in the water in Moorea. It already has some stuff on it. The starboard prop had two year old Prop-speed on it and was still clean as a whistle. If you have never used Prop-speed you might want to take a look. It is amazing stuff. The only person I have known not to be happy with it flagrantly ignored the application directions. It is a two step process with an etching primer and the paint after. You have to let the etch dry as per the instructions and you have to have the props totally clean when you start.
As I was messing about with the sail drives I noticed that the starboard drive had a spacer between the drive leg and the prop and the port didn't. At least it didn't now. Got me thinking about how we crossed the Pacific with no prop on the port shaft. Was it there when I checked into things in the Galapagos? Can't be sure. It had certainly gone missing somewhere. What are the odds of finding this little bit in French frickin' Polynesia? Not good.
I sought out the boss for this one. I told Dominic my situation and asked if he could source a part. The wheels turning in my brain: Let's see, two weeks for shipping because no one has the part, the distributor will only ship to a dealer in China who then needs to ship to Tahiti, where it will clear customs in 1to never many days, I will have to fly to Tahiti to escort the part through customs, two days to get back to Raiatea and in the end I will have paid $1,398 and worked for a month to get a $1 chunk of metal.
Dominic said let me see. Stuck his head in a tool box and said "here", as he handed me the exact part! Are you kidding me? I pinched myself the rest of the afternoon as I carefully sanded and polished the little metal ring.
We are greatly enjoying the lovely Raiatea Lodge. Oliver, Eric and their families have been wonderful hosts. They serve excellent coffee and baguettes with home made jams at 7AM everyday. Lunch is at noon and dinner is at 7PM and both are excellent French/Polynesian cuisine.
You can always stir up someone for a patonk game (popular in France and elsewhere, throw a small light ball and get close to it with bigger heavy ones). The grounds are lush Polynesian standard (watch out for falling coconuts). They have a nice pool, bikes, a great dock with boats for rent, and can set you up with all sorts of tours and excursions.
The dock has been great for us because it is much faster (and easier) to take the dingy to the boat yard than to drive. I am getting into a routine of coffee at 7, boat yard at 8 and home at 4. Hideko is enjoying the free wifi and getting caught up with her Mixi (the hip Japanese online social network). We enjoy a lovely dinner together at 7 and repeat.
Today at the yard we had the rudder shaft straightened as it was bent ever so slightly. Fred and I were impressed by the stocky build of the shaft. It will not be departing the boat without serious trauma.
I did a lot of work inside the boat today. It was hot with little breeze making it in through the escape hatches. The constant threat of rain (though in retrospect it almost never did in the yard) looming up in the highlands kept me from opening the over head hatches. On the bright side the solar panels were kicking out 20 plus amps at high sun. The rail angle actually helped produce more power! I once again find good reason to recommend our air cooled fridge and freezer, which hummed along on solar power unbothered by the fact that they are 15 feet up in the air.
The yard is all 220 so we are without shore power. I asked about a transformer but I got one of those, "I'll look into it", answers that you can interpret as "not going to happen".