We decided to leave Savusavu yesterday at the 11th hour. We are meeting our friend Margaret at the main airport (Nadi) across the Koro Sea on Viti Levu. It is only 150nm or so but the span between is almost totally covered in reef. After some route planning we determined that we would need three days to get there comfortably. A wise man once told me that Fiji was for day sailing.
We got up early and went ashore to take care of some final errands. A wet suit from the Cousteau resort ended up in our bags and we had to leave that at the office for them to pick up and we also wanted to hit the big Saturday Farmers Market (they call it a fresh market here) to get veggies and Kava. The Kava is offered as Sevusevu (a gift) to the village chiefs along our route. Failing to do so, particularly if you go ashore is considered rude and potentially grounds for being run out of the anchorage. I have not had any of the Kava drink that they make up from the root but I must say, after getting a good look at it, I'm in no hurry. Hideko did manage to buy a Kava bowl, as the shop in the Copra shed opened just as we were leaving. It is a beautiful dark wooden bowl with carvings and pearl inlay.
We said goodbye to all of the new friends we had made on the radio as we left the harbor. All but one boat were New Zealand bound. Hawkeye was headed north but they were going to the Marshall Islands. The harbor was flat calm as usual and the land breeze was in control out in the bay. We motored along with the main up and flapping, nose to wind, until we reached point reef. Once clear of the island the wind started to come around and before we knew it we were on one of the best sails of the last two years. We had 14 knots apparent about 45 degrees off the port bow and we were doing 8 plus knots in a flat sea. I love the undisturbed sound of the boat really moving through the water under sail. In a flat sea it is moving by magic.
We took turns on the helm and did chores around the boat as if were were at anchor. The 30 degree turn to starboard around the coral reef park killed our apparent wind and brought things behind the beam. This brought the wind down to under 10 knots and spoiled the fun. We put on a motor to finish off the last 10 miles of our day sail.
By 3:30PM we were entering the Makogai atoll, about 20 miles off the coast of Viti Levu. We used Curly's waypoints (from the Bosuns Locker in Savusavu) to guide us in, but as we have seen in the past, they pretty much match the waypoints I put on the chart. The nice thing is you know someone with experience has sailed that route with a draft deeper than yours. They also lead you to the preferred anchorages. I had picked a different spot to anchor in Makogai and I'm now glad we're hooked up where Curly's waypoints lead. The Waypoints are pretty Spartan (a chartlet with the waypoints lat/long on it) so hopefully he'll add a little narative in the future.
Tomorrow Curly's waypoints will be really put to the test. Today's route had maybe 8 waypoints. Tomorrow we enter the Viti Levu reef and our 50 mile trek has 33 waypoints.
The anchor set first try, though the water is hard to read (at 15:30) and there are some nasty rocks closer in to shore. Hideko directed us to the anchoring spot from the bow. After it was set she snorkeled to check it over. We anchored in sand but our chain is running over some rocky bits. We dropped it in about 30 feet of water, if you put it down a little farther back (40 feet of water) you have pure sand.
There is a NZ catamran anchored off to our port. I thought they were French at first because it is a French built catamaran and they were all running around naked.
There is a small traditional village here on Makogai. We have the dinghy up and plan to leave early tomorrow. I am sort of bummed that we didn't go ashore and get a chance to offer the Kava we bought to the chief. It is a nice spot though and the sunset was brilliant.
We spent the day today getting ready to depart. We had to get immigration clearance for our friend Margaret to join the yacht. The guy at the office wanted a copy of her passport. I couldn't produce this and he was not satisfied with the name and passport number. He wanted date of birth, expiration date and other odd details (in line with our favorite Fiji customs question of all time, "what color is the bottom of your boat?"). Fortunately Margaret had been to Fiji before and he found her data in the system.
We then headed for customs to get clearance to travel to Latoka with stops along the way. The key here is to list every spot you could possibly imagine staying. They are used to this and take it in stride. Once cleared we received a document in English for us and one in Fijian to show to any village chiefs who might inquire.
Once in the area of Latoka we will have to check in with them and repeat the process if we want to sail around that area.
After getting some more groceries and enjoying the town we picked up some of the exact fitting that we had needed in Tonga. The hardware store here ordered us a full set of Ts, 90s and straight fittings so we are well stocked in the plumbing department now.
The Spirit of Ecstasy crew invited us to a curry dinner. It was a nice meal with lots of different curries and the entire dinner with a beer ran only 15 fijian ($8 US).
Back at the boat we made final preparations to depart and turned in.
10/23/2008, Vanua Levu
We dinghied over to the Copra Shed dock this morning to meet the guys going to work at the Cousteau resort. We left our dink and they gave us a ride out to the resort. We zipped out of the creek anchorage and along the coast, then, surprisingly, straight through the middle of the pearl oyster farm. Local knowledge never ceases to amaze.
The Cousteau resort has a nice dive boat. We were the only outsiders amongst the 8 resort guests. Our first stop was around Point Reef to a place just outside the barrier reef called Long Beach. Ashore there is a beach but you are dropped off about 20 meters from the reef in the open ocean. A short surface swim gets you over the reef. It is a nice dive and the reef is very alive. I think the variety of hard and soft corals in Fiji, and particularly the amount alive, is the best I have seen. I really enjoyed the dive even though the vis was not much better than 60 feet.
We returned to the resort after the first dive and Hideko decided to go ashore to relax and skip dive two. Hideko rarely does more than one dive in a day because she gets cold so easily. After a while on the dock a few new divers joined and we headed back out.
Dive two was at Dreadlocks, a site across the bay on a pair of pinnacles. These pinnacles are dotted throughout the west side of the bay and make for some seriously hazardous cruising unless you have a very shoal draft. Some rise up to 15 feet below the surface others are at the surface at low tide. The pinnacles were nice and even more lush then the first dive site.
As we made our way back to the dock after dive two I reflected on the fact that this was a dive operation run my Jacques Cousteau's son. There was no Marine Biology briefing, no suggestion that you shouldn't touch the coral, in fact other than the minimal entry exit instructions there was little briefing at all. While underwater I saw staff stand on the coral while posing for a photo (with mask and reg off for flair), I saw one diver with gloves on crawling over the coral, literally hand over hand, rather than swimming. There were no reprimands or suggestions. Disappointing.
We made a reservation for lunch to ensure a place at the table after our dives. Lunch was expensive for Fiji but reasonable most other places. The food was very good and they have a new menu everyday, so you won't get tired of the fare. The service is good at the resort and everyone is friendly. We had a fun day but we hope Jean Michelle will boost the environmental awareeness of his staff and guests in the future.
We had coffee this morning with Ian and Louise on Spirit of Ecstasy. We've been chasing each other through anchorages since Moorea. It was nice to finally spend some time with them. They are from South Africa and Ian used to run a business that supplied wood bits to Saint Francis.
Later in the day we had lunch at Surf and turn in the Copra Shed. This is an InoFijian spot with good food at a fair price. Later we had drinks with Joni from Lotus. Lotus is spending the cyclone season on a mooring in Savusavu.
Dolly, with her usual efficiency, secured our cruising permit today. This is required to leave your mooring where you clear in. Now we can actually go somewhere in Fiji. This is good because we are planning to move over to Latoka in the next few days to pick up our friend Margaret from the airport.
It was nice to sleep in after the three night passage from Vava'u to Savusavu. The anchorage is flat in almost any weather if you are in past the first few moorings. There is a cruisers net run by Curly's Bosun's Locker in the mornings at 8:00 but it is pretty quiet. You can get a good weather forecast though and every once in a while a boat will pipe up. The anchorage is so quiet and small that it seems you know almost everyone after a few days.
The Copra Shed has been a wonderful home base for us. When we went ashore to visit Dolly yesterday she gave us a wonderful briefing on everything we might need to know. They also received our DHL package with mail and what not from the US. The Copra shed has showers and they can arrange water at the dock or you can Jerry can it. There is no fuel dock here but is you need massive amounts they'll deliver to the dock. Otherwise you have to jerry can it from the station, which is very close to the dock. In addition to arranging your port clearance, fuel and other services, Dolly will get your cruising permit for you and of course rent you a mooring.
The Copra Shed has two rooms upstairs, a breakfast/lunch/dinner cafe and a nicer lunch/dinner place. They also have a yacht club bar and a small dock where the local charter sport fisher ties up. There is a great laundry service at the Copra Shed along with a car/scooter rental, air line agents, gift shop, real estate agent, and internet cafe copymat (with WIFI in the anchorage).
We rented a scooter today and explored while doing some errands. We too the road south to the Cousteau resort first. The road turns dirt right outside of town and it is a bumpy ride, but beautiful along the coast with lush trees and vegetation all around. The resort, owned by Jean Michele Cousteau (Jacques son) is very nice. It has a dark wood Micronesian theme with peaky pandana roofs. The beach is not white sand bu the place is right on the water with a great dock and there is coral everywhere. The resort is a little funny about outside visitors and would not serve us lunch. They indicated their size and the need to prepare food as needed. We decided to go on a dive with them (many of the best dives are too far out for a dinghy ride) and reserve a lunch spot Thursday.
We made our way back to town and through to the north side. It was a good trip to the hospital to pay our health bill. We also found that the town has a lot to offer and the hardware store even had our 15mm plumbing fittings! We stocked up.
Back at the Copra shed we met some of the resident cruisers and had a nice spicy pizza at the Captains Cafe before retiring to the big boat a short dinghy hop from the Copra Shed dock.
We had as nice a motor sail as a motor sail can be last night. We ran the port aux at around 1300 RPMs to make about 4.5 knots of way. This set our arrival in Savusavu at 08:30 local time, just when customs and other officials open for business. The authorities are rumored to be very strict here so we didn't want to anchor or tie up outside of biz hours.
The approach to Savusavu is pretty clear but as you get close to Point reef you need to stay wide of the light as the reef extends a bit farther out than the light's location. Once around the point you can cruise along the coast to the Savusavu harbor entrance.
Savusavu is a small town (though the second largest on Vanua Levu, which is the second largest island in Fiji). The harbor is situated inside a huge bay on the South coast of Vnua Levu. The harbor is deep and has a reef closing it off at the head and a long mangrove island with tall hills running along the north side. It is very protected and many yachts tie up to hurricane moorings here for the season. We considered this for a bit after arriving.
The harbor has some mud flats on the south side that bubble with hot springs. You can see the steam rising from the edge of the water along the coast. There are three mooring purveyors here. We chose to use the Copra Shed. Though I believe that the Bosun's Locker and the Marina can all provide similar services, we have been very happy with Dolly and the Copra Shed.
On approach we hailed Dolly, the GM of the Copra Shed, and she sent a gentleman to show us to a mooring in a skiff. They also ferried the officials out to our boat. Health came first and gave us a standard $33 Fijian ( about $20US) bill which we had to pay at the hospital (a fair hike on the other side of town). Customs and Immigration came next and had no fees but 6-8 pages of forms to fill out with valuable questions like what color is the bottom of your boat. Finally quarantine visited and charged us $20 fijian. The standard, "keep the dog on the boat or we'll kill it and charge you $500", message was received.
We are now allowed to go ashore but can not leave the mooring without clearing things with the Customs office. Fiji is in the ridiculous zone when it comes to formalities. Dolly applied for a cruising permit for us, which will allow us to visit the islands. We must give customs an itinerary for all travels though and we have to check in and out of all ports of entry should we travel to one. Once we decide to leave Fiji we have to clear out at a port of entry (in the middle of the islands) and then not stop anyway on our way out (which generally requires a dangerous reef transit which can not be made in daylight if you are going West along a direct path). It is clear that they have no ability to make constructive use of all of this data, nor the wherewithal to police the policies. We comply as always but the bureaucracy is remarkable.
That said the people that came to our boat were some of the most professional and civil I have ever met wearing an official's badge. No one asked us for beer or gifts and all were polite and courteous, respecting our boat and even helping us with the forms! The Fijians are currently second in a close race with the Niuians for nicest folks in the world in our book.
We were smelling bacon frying the whole time we were filling in forms. The aroma wafted out over the anchorage from the Captain's Cafe. As soon as we were permitted we made our way there and had a nice bacon and egg breakfast. It was wonderful with good coffee as well. They also do a good pizza and have a real pizza oven.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the town and getting local currency at the bank. We are looking forward to our week here!
10/19/2008, Koro Sea
We had a lovely night last night. The sailing has been calm and peaceful if not all that fast. The sky looked a little foreboding at the end of the day yesterday, with dense and complex layers of clouds forming. There is a low forming south of here so I was worried that we were entering thunderstorm territory. Other than one small shower that passed to starboard it was a perfect evening. The big excitement was having to jibe as the wind backed to the NE under the effect of the low pressure and a big commercial fishing boat that had a CPA (closest point of approach) of 0.25nm until we maneuvered. This was the first non yacht we have seen at sea since the Marquesas. We passed behind him astern a mile and a half off. I always worry passing behind these guys because the long liners often have lines out well over a mile. If we have crossed any they've all been 5 feet or more bellow sea level.
We have a little portable stereo that we bought in Panama that we play music on some nights. Hideko always has me load up a USB memory stick with all Beatles tunes for the stereo when she needs help staying awake. The first night out is always the roughest but Hideko was still listening to the Beatles last night. Hideko covers 8PM to 2AM and I cover 2AM to 8AM. I usually have a hard time getting to sleep at 8PM the first night, not to mention a hard time getting up at 2AM. The second night is no problem though, perhaps because I am tired after the first night, and then I am good for the rest of the passage.
We made landfall at about 9AM this morning, passing south of the Exploring Islands (close to the middle of the Eastern Lau Group in Fiji). The pass between Malevuvu and Katafage gives you a radar target on each side. The Katafage atoll (different but similar name on some charts) has a raised island on the west side and the Malevuvu atoll has two ship wrecks on the NE side that provide a pretty good return. The water is deep and the narrowest bit is 6nm wide. You can almost sail a rhumb line from the Vava'u entrance to the Savusavu entrance. One of the islands off to port (pictured) reminded me of King Kong's island.
Day two was about as sunny and pleasurable as can be, nice even wind on the beam and flat seas in the reef cluttered Koro Sea for the first part of the day. The Lau Group is quite lovely. There are high islands, atolls, raised limestone islands, reefs and sand spits. Too bad the Fiji government is so dysfunctional right now, it would be nice to stop at a few on the way through.
The sun has just set and the wind is falling apart as predicted. After wallowing along at 3 plus knots we fired up the port auxiliary and put the jib away. Given the forecast we will probably motor into Savusavu with an ETA of around 8AM, just when customs opens (tomorrow morning is Monday out here).