11/23/2008, The Solomon Islands
We are now anchored in a particularly lovely little hole bordered on one side by reef and two sides by islands, one of them being Tavaipupu. This is perhaps the most famous "secret" spot in the Solomons, and we have it all to ourselves! Is this a bad sign? There is a village on the big island and a small resort on Tavaipupu. The anchorage is nestled deep inside Marau Sound at the southern tip of Guadalcanal.
We started the day at 4AM to ensure a timely arrival. There's lots of water on the way into this spot but there are reefs all over and it is always nice to make this kind of entry close to noon. It was a very starry night but as the sun came up cumulus clouds formed everywhere. The pressure was 1008, which would be alarmingly low farther south. Closer to the equator it seems you see lower pressure more often. The pressure climbed rapidly to 1014 throughout the day and the convection started as the sun began to cook things.
Later in the morning conditions stabilized and it was a beautiful blue sky day overhead, with 5 knots of wind. There were little isolated squalls coming off of Malaita blowing across toward Guadalcanal. We vectored in on the back of one and got a nice 17 knot ride for almost an hour in the shade of the squalls back shelf. It was the first time we had shut down the motor in a day while underway.
We entered Marau Sound through the east channel at close to noon. It was a deep and easy pass, particularly so because the sea state was so calm. We enjoyed motoring through all of the beautiful islands and took lots of good pictures. Incidentally our picture folder is filling up, it will be good to make Honiara and finally upload all of them to the blog.
We asked an adult villager on shore if we could anchor in the little reefed bay and he said "certainly!". The Solomon Islanders have been very friendly and welcoming. We also saw someone from the resort and they said we were welcome to anchor as well.
Upon arrival we were met by quite a group of folks. Anchoring in this little hole puts you close to shore and a village giving anyone who can paddle easy access to you by canoe. This is ok, but sometimes you want to rest a bit once you anchor! Nothing doing here. You will meet several new friends within minutes of settling in. We met three kids who were quite gregarious, I had to warn them to stay off the boat so that the vicious dog wouldn't get them (har). Joe came to welcome us also and traded me some coconuts for soap and sugar. We love drinking coconuts.
Joe was going to come back to show us shells for trading but we missed him. This is good because I like to trade with the villagers (they are very reasonable and are just looking for T Shirts, sugar, rice, that sort of thing) but I don't like to encourage the shell trade. I'd much rather get fresh fruit and vegetables.
I think the older generation folks here are wonderful. They are respectful and want to trade you something they think you will value for things they need. It is a pretty fair anchorage fee given the benefits on anchoring here, not to mention the yummy coconuts and papayas! The kids, unfortunately, seem to be going down hill. Some kids come aboard your boat without asking (never had an adult do this). Some kids ask for gifts without considering your interests, and a few have the nerve to ask for Walkmen, Stereos and IPods!
The materialism and population expansion seems to be taking its toll. I was told by a boy on Uki Ni Masi that Makira (San Cristobal) was embroiled in constant land disputes among the inhabitants (no guns yet but "fighting"). To the point that the church had to build the secondary school on a separate island (Uki Ni Masi)! The under 18 population is huge here so matters are not likely to get better soon.
The government has wisely in the past not emphasized tourism. Tourists bring "cargo", material things, kids see these gadgets and want them. Honiara is overpopulated with young men who have come to the city to make money at a job that doesn't exist. In the villages the people need nothing from the outside world. In Honiara, or elsewhere in the materialistic world, they are wards of the state. Everyone should be allowed to form their own destiny but it is sad to see a healthy culture falling into shadow.
I shouldn't paint too bleak a picture. The Solomon Islands (our vast experience is three anchorages now) are lovely and the people, even the lusty kids, are truly wonderful out in the islands. The adults are kind and considerate, and some of the kids are courteous and wonderful as well, the others are really just being kids and hopefully will get over the iPod envy.
In the afternoon Margaret went for a several hour snorkel on the shallow reefs at the head of the little bay we parked in. I joined her for a bit and it was a nice swim. The reefs are pretty healthy in most places though a few were taken over with algae. There were hard corals, soft corals, lots of little fish and some good size trevally, and even a couple of big black tip sharks.
Once we settled back at the boat the owners of the Tavaipupu resort came over to say hi. They invited us to dinner and we thankfully accepted. Their launch came to pick us up and bring us around to the south side of Tavaipupu where they have a jetty and a lovely beach. Sam, our driver from a nearby island, beached the boat and we jumped off into an amazing little hideaway. The resort has been here for 30 years but it has been inaccessible for a good bit of the last 10 due to the strife on Guadalcanal.
Guadal Canal has a lot of Malaitians (folks from the island across the channel) living on it. The land rights became a big issue, again, and fighting broke out with a lot of senseless destruction. The Tavaipupu resort survived unscathed, largely due to the respect the locals had for the founder Dennis. Unfortunately the airport at this end of the island was shut down and the boat trip is a good three hours. The Australian RAMSI peace keeping force arrived at the behest of the government a few years back and Guadalcanal is almost back to normal now. The south airport is supposed to have its first flight in years tomorrow.
The Tavaipupu Resort is a small 6 bungalow private island. It is magical in every way. You feel like you've gone back in time. The dinning room is a large Solomon islands style open wall building with huge timbers and towering rafters holding up the steep pandana covered roof. Everything is candle lit at night. The resort has a generator but they try to conserve its use. There are palm trees everywhere and if you want to get away from it all I couldn't imagine a more enchanting place to sit on a comfy padded ratan chain under the rustling palms, drinking an icey gin and tonic while reading a good book.
The resort is also very cruiser friendly. We were picked up and dropped off. We had an amazing lobster dinner served over rice in a hollowed out pineapple. Even home made chocolate ice cream and piping hot espresso! The prices are very, very reasonable for the level of quality and service. If we didn't have to get Margaret to Honiara we might have ended up here for some time. If you come to the Solomons by yacht and don't visit the Tavaipupu resort you are missing something special.
We will be able to report in on the state of affairs in Honiara, the big city, tomorrow...
|The Solomon Islands||
11/22/2008, The Solomon Islands
I feel like I'm in England. It was another overcast day with pretty disturbed weather, or no weather. We got up around 5AM and got the boat rolling just after. We had good light and it looked like it could be a nice day though lots of clouds were rolling onto the big island of Cristobal.
We exited the reef across the entrance to Port Mary with no track line but good visibility. We set the tracking on the Raymarine E120 for auto so that it gives a good track but minimizes the points used. When it runs out of points it alarms and begins erasing points at the start of the track to make new points. This is fine. What is not fine is that it seems to think that it is ok to delete the entire track when you shut down the E120. This is my theory anyway. I can say decisively that our track alarmed yesterday and began deleting its tail but still showed on the plotter, and today it was gone. It would have been a welcome reassurance in the gray dawn.
I exited the harbor in the center of the markers and saw 45 feet on the way out. On the way in I believe I favored the green mark (green right returning here in ex-Brit territory) and saw no less than 70 feet. Small cruise ships come in here so it is a pretty easy entrance if you have your wits about you.
Once out we put up the main with reef one and pulled out the jib due to the ominous nature of the system moving in. We ran just across the front of it getting a nice ride at 9 knots. Then our lead ran out and it got a little too hot, blowing around 30 knots true. We had to head up (I'm not used to sailing up wind anymore!) to put in reef two and roll the jib up a bit. Of course as soon as we finished that it was back down to reef one conditions. So we went down to reef one. Then it was light and on the nose so we started the Yanmar.
Well it was certainly cooler due to the cloud cover as we made our way to the island of Uki Ni Masi on the northeast coast of Cristobal. We motored (the sails were up but it would be a stretch to call it motor sailing most of the time) up the coast of Cristobal in the wake of a huge squall system. It killed the wind but we missed all the rain somehow. By noon it was still overcast but stabilized and not so dense and dark. In fact it would be a nice in town day. We're still two days from town however...
As we rounded the point of Uki Ni Masi the sun came out and it was a perfect blue sky afternoon. You get all the weather in one day here in the Solomons it seems.
Uki Ni Masi is a nice island with a nice trade wind anchorage on the west side. Selwyn Bay is fairly large and open though it does have a decent west extending lip on the south and north ends. We anchored near the south corner to shelter from the southeast trades (in case they show up). The island should do well in anything with east in it and the bay would not be bad with a south wind if you sheltered at the south end, also because Cristobal is not far off to the southwest. Wind with any west in it would probably be no fun here so you need to watch the monsoons.
Much like Vanuatu, we have found the anchorages here in the Solomons (both from the cruising guides and the whopping two we have actually anchored in so far) to be deep right up to the shore and then it goes immediately to 0 feet with lots of coral. I have been getting in the habit of motoring around the 30 foot contour and then trying to pick a spot with 50 feet of water where we can set and still be off the rock in a wind shift. I always like to be tucked in a short swim from shore in the 10 foot water, but those days are few and far between outside of the Bahamas.
The anchorage here is beautiful. We asked a friendly guy in a dug out canoe if we could anchor and he said, "sure". He also gave us some tips on the location of the shallow rocks near shore. It is a bright Saturday afternoon and we can hear children playing back in the trees though we can't see them. Margaret is taking a swim and cleaning the water line, Hideko is making dinner and I'm doing the weather.
Two more day sails to Honiara!
|The Solomon Islands||
11/21/2008, The Solomon Islands
What a passage. From the moment we left Tegua (in a large squall) until our arrival we have been dealing with unstable atmosphere. Squalls have literally been all around us the entire trip. Combine that with no reasonable wind most of the time and you have a motor sail not to be envied. Though we have had several near misses and a couple grazers we have neither been hit nor had to divert the whole passage. The exception being the squall we travel a few hours in right out of Tegua.
The hard work trimming and retrimming the boat for little reward and lots of diesel dollars has paid off. We are now at anchor in Port Mary, Santa Ana Island in the Solomons! What an awesome place. We are underway, so the dinghy stays up and we are off first thing tomorrow. It is good to be at 10S and across the Coral Sea, even if it is a little late in the season. We look forward to our three day sails to Honiara, with overnight breaks in what, on paper, sound to be fantastic anchorages.
As we came in the straight between Santa Catalina and Santa Ana a pod of spinner dolphins came to visit, jumping and frolicking all the while.
The entrance to Port Mary was straight forward for us. Partially because a cargo boat from Honiara, the Christie Leigh, had come in just before us. I didn't see him enter but I could see his slick in the water. We motored right over the reef on the Navionics charts with never less than 70 feet of water. That said the actual coastline was a perfect radar match. It would be better the other way around (well charted reefs with an overall chart offset)!
The entrance to Port Mary is actually marked with green and red day markers. The large arcing reef comes way up from the south leaving a gap in the north end of the bay. Once inside it is 70 feet or deeper. I didn't find anything shallower than 60 feet and that was fairly close to the beach. There is a village right on the beach and it didn't seem polite to anchor in too close. Also it is one of those places that looks as if it shoals rapidly and with hard stuff mixed in.
We asked some guys on lighters unloading the Christie Leigh, which floated freely in the bay, if we could anchor for the night and they said, "sure!". The told us where to drop the hook and the Christie Leigh even talked us in on the VHF. The people here are just wonderful, every one waves at you and says hello before you get a chance.
Four young girls swam out to our boat as the sun was setting to chat. They spoke a combination of pigeon and English that was interesting to hear. I was surprised what great swimmers they were. Margaret jumped in with them after a few minutes. They swam about and talked for the better part of an hour.
Hideko began cooking up some Mahi Mahi we had in the freezer as the sun set over the Solomons. I have a feeling we're going to like the Solomons!
|The Solomon Islands||
11/20/2008, Coral Sea
We had a lovely night celebrating Hideko's birthday last night. Hayter Bay in the Torres Group of Vanuatu is definitely a Swingin' on a Star recommended anchorage.
We have been in the SPCZ (or simply a convergence zone if you prefer) for the past couple days. When we got up this morning the atmosphere looked pretty unstable. There was quite a bit of rain on the horizon. The wind was lifting the moisture right up over the Torres islands and creating a mess.
Just as Hideko got the anchor up a squall cam over the hill. We exited the bay using our route, track and radar because it was hard to see much else. It turned into a big system and it took us half the morning to get out of it. The good thing about sailing down wind is that the weather runs with you and it is less likely to get hit by squalls in the area. On the down side if you get in one you can sail inside of it for some time.
Fortunately the wind angle in there was good and we were doing 9-10 knots. Once out we ran under full main, reef one, full jib, no jib, etcetera. We didn't get hit by anything but there was lots of activity in the area making the wind very active. Much of the time we had the jib put away and the main reefed just to keep the rig quiet as we motored in 3 knots of tail wind.
The sea state has been great with a nice little swell on the starboard quarter. I think we are getting as much as a half knot of current helping us out as well.
We are on a mission to reach Port Mary on Santa Ana, just southeast of San Crostobal in the Solomon Islands, by nightfall tomorrow. We're looking good but have to keep up high 7 knots the rest of the way in. If we miss we'll just do another overnight to our second planned anchorage on Uki Ni Masi about 60nm on.
Hideko Says: zzzzzz Margaret Says: It is hard to shop for a new Dry Suit when the temperature hasn't dropped below 90 degrees in days.
182nm to Port Mary
It was another early day. We were out of the anchorage by 5AM and on our way to Tegua in the Torres Group. Once again we wish we could have stayed another day to listen to the water music and drink Kava with the wonderful folks of Lakona Bay. We are happy to be moving north though.
It was a scattered squall day if ever there was one. The sky was just about completely overcast all day and we had squalls all around us most of it. We got hit once and after that the wind went light and variable. We motored for the rest of the day with the jib away and reef one in the main to keep the boom calm in the beam seas. We routed around one big nasty bit which helped our approach angle to the Torres.
We came up along the windward side of the southern islands and then through the pass south of Tegua. We dropped the main and passed between a little islet just offshore on the way in to Hayter Bay. We never saw less than 100 feet of water or so. The Bay is a lovely anchorage with a beautiful beach ashore. This could fool you into thinking that you could anchor in close. Not the case. The bottom is about 70 feet deep and then coral heads pop up everywhere and the bottom comes up fast. Best to anchor near the mouth of the bay in 70 feet.
We were surprised to see another boat here. We had a nice chat with Kleiner Bar (Little Bear), a family of 4 from Brazil. They are heading to the Solomons as well so we will look forward to seeing them again soon.
Margaret dove on the anchor just before sunset. The water is astoundingly clear here. You can see the 70 foot bottom from the deck at 5PM in the afternoon! We just got a little rain but the anchorage is quite nice and would be great in anything but a strong westerly.
We will be sad to leave Vanuatu tomorrow. Too little time, too many cyclones (Vanuatu is second only to New Caledonia in average cyclone landfalls, with 2.5 a year). Tomorrow morning we will be off to the Solomon Islands. We are going from out of the way, to really out of the way, and looking forward to it.
We were up at 4AM this morning and had an easy out of Santo. Our new friends on Polaris were already up and we waved goodbye wishing them fun dives on the Coolidge and a safe passage.
Per the forcast we expected to motor most of the day, and we did. The wind was light but the direction was good, ENE. Unfortunately the swell was hard on the beam, it wasn't big but it was short and obnoxious when the wind was too light to hold the rig in place. We made 6 point something knots most of the morning with the port engine at 1,750 rpms.
It is Hideko's Birthday today!!! Happy Birthday Hideko!!!! Margaret gave Hideko a great massage (she's a licensed therapist) and Hideko immediately took a nap. We are making pasta (Hideko's request) and, of course, Japanese style Strawberry Shortcake for desert.
In the afternoon we hit a little squall that got the wind up into the low 20s, so we shut down the engine and took off at 9 plus knots. I didn't get too wet at the helm and the girls sat on the dry side of the boat (yes this is a measure of intelligence). The squall weakened as we progressed but held out enough all the way to Garua.
We pulled up into Lakona Bay on the west side and were pleasantly surprised to find a wonderful anchorage. The beach is black sand and so is the bottom. The locals tell us there are no rocks in the middle (perhaps some on the side though) and the bottom progresses slowly so you can ease in to whatever depth suits you.
We anchored in 30 feet a ways out to ensure no problems, an easy out in the dark of morning, and good breeze with no insects. The set was immediate and there's plenty of room for several boats. In trade conditions this is a great spot and I can imagine it being even flatter close in.
We were greeted by several kayaks as we settled in. Johnny was the group's spokesman and was very friendly giving us info on the anchorage and inviting us into the village for Kava in the custom house. They also offered to set us up with a water music show for 5,000 vt (about $45 USD). Water music is a thing local to the islands of north Vanuatu. The women perform this in the shallows by clapping and making noises underwater creating a musical performance. It sounds wonderful but sadly we are in late and need to be out early. We'll probably have birthday dinner and cake and hit the hay.
Wow, it was a busy day. We got up at about 7AM to prepare for our dive on the President Coolidge (the star attraction here). Hideko decided to sit out so Margaret and I met up with the Alan Powers shop folks at the Beachfront resort. The Beachfront is nice but there is no dock there so we beached the dink and walked our gear across the lawn to the dive way. There is probably a better place to meet up with the shop but we were new so we took their suggestion (a convoluted conversation went on that I was not a party to involving laundry and other Beachfront Resort services).
Surprisingly the dive shop is a drive and dive outfit. Both of the big ticket dives here, the Coolidge and Million dollar point are shore dives. So not only do the shops with property on the coast at these sites not need boats but they actually spend time developing their shore site. We arrived at the entry area after a short stop at Alan's house (which doubles as a dive shop) to gear up. The entry area is like a park. The Powers crew has planted a beautiful array of plants along the road and the prep area is totally shaded with beautiful trees and has nice benches all around. The truck just backs in with the gear and you set up at your leisure.
The entry area is even more amazing. The sandy ramp that descends ever so gradually into the water actually has break waters on both side. It is the easiest entry I have ever seen. There are hand holds along the way in case you have a preferred depth for putting your fins on. At the end of the ramp in overhead water there is a wall with lines going off to different parts of the Coolidge. They all descend (or ascend when you are coming back up them) very gradually. No one rushes here, it is all pretty much serious divers only, and they only do one tank in the morning and one in the afternoon.
The Coolidge is monstrous. It is so big I had no real concept of what I was looking at when down on it. The vis was not as good as I had expected, maxing out at perhaps 50 feet. Never the less there are loads of fish (the naughty boys feed them regularly) and many are rather large. We saw some big trevally, grouper and snapper that any fisherman would be overjoyed to haul in. The wreck is austere and massive. The experienced folks we dove with suggested 10 dives to get a good feel for the wreck. I would have to agree. We saw glass port holes, gas masks and many places where you can penetrate the wreck. The engine room seems to be a popular spot.
We went for an easy one dive intro given our limited time. All dives on the Coolidge are deep. Our beginner dive went down to 130 feet. Many divers were on doubles and put in over a half an hour in deco stops. I would have loved to stay for more.
On the way up, particularly due to the long deco stops some folks have to make, Alan has created a coral garden near his wall. The divers at the shop transplant anemones (with their clown fish intact), flower pot corals and every other type of reef dweller you can imagine. The stop areas have hand holds, are clearly stepped at different depths and are surrounded by a wonderfully diverse transplanted reef. I'm not sure what I think about the transplanting process and its impact on the donor reef but it certainly was entertaining to explore during our stop. Margaret even located a large octopus who was sneaking through the coral changing colors abruptly to match all the while.
I would recommend Alan Powers diving. I think they are a well trained and very safe group with good equipment.
While Margaret and I were having fun, Hideko grabbed 10 gallons of gas for the dink in jerry jugs, got the laundry going with the Beachfront resort and lined up various other items on our get out of Dodge quick list. I love my wife! It was a scramble but we actually managed to clear out and get our duty free fuel permit before everything shut down for lunch at noon. We were trying to use up the last of our cash and actually ran out when it came to paying the harbor fees (7,800vt or about $75 USD). The ATM in town actually decided to give us cash though so all was well.
Back at the big boat we called in to the Pacific Gas folks and arranged a fuel delivery to Simpson Quay (one east of the customs quay). They only sell fuel in 200 liter drums. We needed a bit more than 500 but I settled for 400. Duty free it was about $4 USD a gallon, not too bad for these parts. As we waited for the truck on the quay things started to cloud up.
I was getting concerned as things darkened. Particularly because last night after setting the anchor we ran across the bay to the Aore Resort. We enjoyed a nice Melanesian buffet and then the wind began to pick up. I was getting ready to get the girls together to run off to the big boat and then it hit. A nasty whipping squall with lots of rain. We waited out the worst of it and then dashed back. Swingin' on a Star had definitely been swingin', she was a good 150 feet from where we left her but after a quick plot I determined that the Rocna hadn't moved an inch. I love that thing.
Anyway, the last thing I wanted to do was sit on a big concrete fishing quay while wind and waves bash my plastic boat to and fro. The fuel guy finally arrived after a prodding phone call. He pumps from the can on the truck while you fill. I ran everything through our baja filter and we were ready to go by about 4 PM.
We left the quay to pick up a mooring across the bay at the Aore Resort hoping to see our new friends on Polaris. The resort has 8 moorings and it makes for an easy out. When we came by last night in the dinghy we didn't see any. When I inquired they said the high tide hid them. Hmmm, they need to higher a more experienced mooring installation crew. It would be pretty dangerous to motor through a mooring field in the evening looking for solace with all of the moorings submerged at prop level. When we arrive tonight the tide was maybe +3.5 feet and they were still visible.
Hideko and Margaret picked up a mooring and immediately took off in the dink to grab the laundry. Polaris is near by but the crew seems to be out and about. We meet Polaris last night and immediately hit it off. Not only are they the first yacht we've seen in a few days, they are the only yacht we've ever met heading to the Solomons. They mentioned that a few of their friends were there now. They are German and there's a good German cruisers net that provides hook ups and weather with the controller now in Honiara (capital of the Solomon Islands).
Polaris is staying another day or two in Santo so we'll be leaving them tomorrow but we look forward to seeing them again down the road. They are avid divers with a compressor on board also, so we will no doubt be sharing some wonderful dives up north.
The Aore Resort is a nice little spot isolated from the rest of Luganville across the channel. The Resort has about 8 moorings which go for 1,200 vt a night (about $11 USD). They supposedly monitor VHF 68. They have potable water for yacht jerry jubs free of charge and sell direct yacht tank fills for 1,000 vt per hour. They also have a laundry service for 2,000 vt a load, machine drying is an extra 500 vt per load. You can use the dive showers to rinse off for free or pay 500 vt for a hot shower where soap is legal. The resort runs a ferry to Luganville which yachts can jump for 250 vt if there's room.
We're of to the Aore for dinner and then to bed early. We leave before 5AM tomorrow for Gaua (aka Santa Maria). It is the beginning of our forced march to the Honiara. It is 80nm to Gaua and another 80 to Tegua, where we will spend the second night out. After that we will make a 280nm overnight to Port Mary, San Cristobal in the Solomons. Then we have three easy 60nm day sails to Honiara on Guadal Canal. We're excited to see our next bit of this incredible forgotten part of the world.