02/07/2009, Truk Lagoon
Hideko joined At and Dia from Angelique to do some shopping in town today. Eric from Whistler and I decided to go out for our first dives on the wrecks of Truk Lagoon. The number one must dive wreck seems to be the Fujikawa Maru when you take a poll. So that was our target.
We dove with Blue Lagoon Divers. The dive shop was started by Kimiuo Aisek, the Chuukese guy who really launched the dive industry here. Kimiuo was 17 when he saw the operation Hailstone sink the majority of Japanese ships in the lagoon. He has passed on now but his son runs the dive operation. The former continental Hotel is now the Blue Lagoon Resort, also owned by the Aisek family.
The boat came around to pick us up with two guys on board. Jersey was our driver and surface support. He took care of setting up our gear and breaking it down. Tonky lead the dives, anchored the boat and did the standard islander bow conning, hand waving bit when we got close to one of the sites.
Many of the dive sites have mooring balls marking them, but the moorings are all 3-4 feet underwater. This ensures the open Yamaha fiberglass boats that whip around here in taxi capacity don't snag the lines and it also ensures that yahoo divers out to go diving without a guide (which is illegal here) can't find the sites easily.
The guys don't moor to the line though in most cases. They instead prefer to drop a grapnel anchor onto the wreck and hook up that way. Unfortunate for the wrecks, and the coral on them.
The Fujikawa is a 433 foot passenger/cargo ship. The Fujikawa has a lot going for it. It is in reasonable depth, with a bottom at 112 feet, the deck at 60 feet, a stack running all the way up to 20 feet and a rear mast near the surface. She has several intact zeros in the hold, deck guns, ammo, spare prop blades and lots of other cargo and artifacts. There are some nice swim throughs and the ship is deeply covered in growth. It is a fantastic dive.
We have picked up some literature on the lagoon from different places. Franko's Chuuk Lagoon Dive Map is a must for anyone diving here. It gives an old school map of the lagoon with pictures and descriptions of all of the ships as new, and on the other side pictures of the wrecks and dive notes. We also picked up a copy of "The Legacy of Truk Lagoon", DVD, which is very interesting and well done. Pricey though still very interesting, and by far the most detailed resource, is the 500 page, "WWII Wrecks of the Truk Lagoon".
Our second dive was on the Kensho Maru (Maru is the suffix applied to any merchant ship in the Japanese fleet). The Kensho had some nice swim throughs and was worth diving but not as spectacular as the Fujikawa.
The rides out from Weno to the wrecks can be long and the lagoon can get very choppy. The dive boat does have a bimini and it rides fairly smooth considering. We were back at the Blue Lagoon dock by 1PM, just in time for lunch. The dock has a nice set of rinse basins and a fresh water shower for the divers. It is a great setup for cruisers looking to conserve fresh water but not wanting stinky dive gear. After cleaning up, Eric and I scarfed down a Blue Lagoon Cheese Burger and a Four X ("XXXX", an Australian beer I am growing fond of). It was a perfect day in Chuuk.
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02/06/2009, Blue Lagoon Resort
If you only have a week you might want to avoid FSM. It took us four days to clear in. We went ashore at the Blue Lagoon today to look around the resort and await immigration with our final paperwork. The resort is the nicest place in Chuuk as far as we can tell. They have about 50 rooms and perhaps 5 were rented. I worry about the viability of the place.
We bought Telecom cards at the front desk (good for pay phone calls, cell top ups and Wifi) and made some calls and got caught up on the internet. When immigration arrived we finally got our passports back, stamped, and received paper copies of our cruising permits. It turns out ours had issued in December but it expired before we got here. Pohnpei took some time to sort this out and issue another permit.
Happy to be "in" the country we relaxed at the Blue Lagoon Resort for the day and enjoyed a nice dinner at the restaurant.
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We woke up to the sound of Yamaha 40hp two strokes zipping about. The shuttle traffic around here is truly amazing. I can not see how the folks around here pay for all of the gasoline at $4 a gallon. Perhaps it is the $50 million the US tax payers provide to the government annually. Or the other millions in aid that come through other channels. Who knows.
We waited the morning out in the port but found no sign of immigration. At and I had finally had enough. I dingied over to Angelique, who had received some unfortunate damage from the quay overnight, and we headed for the immigration office. It was noon and of course the office was closed.
When two o'clock rolled around and still no one showed up at the office we proceeded to the airport. We were looking for the head of immigration in Chuuk. He arrived at the airport from home about a half hour later. We made our situation clear.
It went something like this: "We have been in your port for three days and have not been cleared in. We filed for permits more than a month ago and received no confirmation or contact, even when requested, over any channel. We tried to bring aid to your outlying atolls (much like the US air drops at Christmas from Guam), but were denied. We are now being held up here. You can give us back our paperwork and we will contact our embassy and leave, or you can clear us in. Please decide and complete your process in the next hour."
He assured us that his office was working to get us in but that Pohnpei was taking more time to approve the paperwork than normal. We returned to the boats to watch the clock. Back at the port Mrs. Mori arrived and she still did not have our permits. She insisted that she be allowed to inspect our stores to see that we still had our aid package aboard. We obliged and then both At and I blew up. We had had enough of the rinky dink games and quite enough of the Pohnpei power play. We were ready to demand our prior clearances, refunds of fees, and to be on our way to Guam.
After a lot of apologies from immigration we were swayed to stay until tomorrow, at which point, we were promised, permits and stamps would be forthcoming. So far this country's government has proven pretty good at wasting people's time, insulting folks who spent thousands of dollars of their own money to assist people in the outer islands, creating the most complex entry program we have ever encountered and charging more money than anyone but the Bahamas. As a side note, we have been warned to anchor no where but in front of the Blue Lagoon because should we anchor anywhere else in the lagoon we are liable to get robbed at knife point unless we have a local aboard (this came from two Chuukese friends we had made at the port).
I'm venting. Sorry.
So off we go to anchor at the Blue Lagoon.
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We got up this morning and had eggs for breakfast! Might not seem special to you, but eggs are surprisingly hard to come by in the Solomons and remote islands between there and here. It had been a less than optimal evening on the cargo ship quay but a nice breakfast and easy access to the stores made up for it.
The problem with the quay is that you just can't get tied up in such a way that your boat will be at rest. It is a roadstead and there's a couple feet of tide, a couple feet of slow rolling swell and a lot of small boat wake mixing together, fore and aft, side to side. We were eager to move out into the islands.
We came for the wreck diving. As it turns out there are wrecks everywhere. So many you need to be careful navigating and anchoring. Quite a few are modern era, not WWII. For instance the Chuuk State island freighter that used to make the runs from Moen to the outer islands is now lying on its side next to the quay. I was told that it met its match in the last Typhoon they had, about five years back. It is not alone.
Eleven AM and Mrs. Mori from Immigration never showed up. The diesel guy, who is actually an American, did come by as scheduled though. It was raining so hard and often though that it took three stints to get the tanks filled. We had to keep closing everything up and running inside the boat, while the diesel guy sheltered in his truck.
Health showed up out of the blue in the afternoon. They looked at our immunization cards and our most recent physical exam records and that was that. So the total official visits was now up to five (Health, Immigration, Customs, Port, Quarantine). I was talking to an Australian who is here as a tax adviser to the government and he indicated that the government is largely funded by the USA and that something like 20% of the population in many areas work for the government. If there's one place in the world that needs less government it is here!
We sat on the quay all day waiting for immigration to bring out passports and our cruising permits. We had sent in the cruising permit applications from Gizo over a month ago. The email exchange with Pohnpei was much like consulting with the great Atun of Planet 7. You can make your requests of the oracle but little indication of your disposition will be forthcoming.
Mrs Mori from immigration showed up at 3PM, four hours late, with a story about the air plane creating a slow down in her day. There is one flight a day into Chuuk and it is the same every day. She had nothing. In fact we had to give here new copies of our application for cruising, crew list and ship particulars. It didn't seem to matter that we had already sent all of this in to the capital via email. She left and said she would try to return at 5PM with our permits and passports. No such luck.
Eric on Whistler had started his process a day before us and just got all of his stuff back today. He left the dock for the anchorage south of here off of the Continental Hotel (now the Blue Lagoon) a bit before sunset. We were all envious and hope to join him soon. After all we came here to anchor around the islands and go SCUBA diving (which you can only do with a guide), not to sit in the container port.
This has been by far the most confused circus of officialdom I have ever experienced in any country (and we've been in and out of over 30). There was no way we were staying on the quay another night. Our boat had not been damaged yet, but I wasn't going to wait for it. Our fenders and dock lines were certainly no better for the wear. We left the dock just after sunset. We were certain immigration was not coming at this point, they no showed but did not have the courtesy to tell us they would not be back until tomorrow.
We anchored off of the quay far enough to avoid most of the small boat traffic. The bay next to the quay is the shuttle harbor where all of the boats running about the islands in the lagoon converge. Things pretty much shut down after sunset though. The harbor bottom is pretty scoured and we had to try twice to get a set.
Once settled we dinghied over to Angelique. She was still on the quay, At and Dia had a nice fender board out which allowed them to tolerate the wall and its huge vertical bushings better than we could. The rain throughout the day had made the streets so muddy and flooded that you could not walk to the Truk Stop (the only restaurant in the area) without getting soaked. The dinghy was a far more civilized solution.
We all had another pleasant meal at the Truk Stop and retired to await clearance day three.
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02/03/2009, North Pacific
We slept in today. The anchorage was lovely and we had a nice relaxing breakfast with a beautiful view of the lush green islands inside the Chuuk Lagoon. We talked to Whistler on the VHF and told him that we would try to get over to the port to clear in by 14:00.
Shortly thereafter I noticed four teenage boys hanging off of our stowed dinghy. I went outside to greet them and see what they were up to. They had four coconuts they wanted to give us. I told them we were under quarantine and had plenty of coconuts, but thanks. The leader said, "I give you one". Trying to be nice I said, "ok thanks". Then he said, "now you give me something". I could see where this was going. I asked what he wanted. The four guys had a little huddle then one came back and said, "champagne". There was obviously a language barrier here but I got the drift. I gave them back their coconut and told them we were under quarantine and they had to go. I'm pretty sure they understood the go part if nothing else.
I turned to go back inside and it started raining. They didn't leave. I went back out and they said they wanted to wait for the rain. They were sort of sheltered by our swim platform so against my better judgment I said ok. Back inside the boat with the sliding door closed I could clearly see them but they could not see me. I watched as the lead punk, as I will refer to him from this point on, reached over the edge of our dinghy and began to lift our paddles. I burst back outside and yelled at him to drop the paddle and get away from my boat. That worked.
Sad to say that everyone we have talked to around here today confirms that there is a very high rate of petty theft in Chuuk. Even the guy who was putting up the money for a little league project was getting all of his gloves and balls stolen. As a tourist in a secure hotel room you have nothing to worry about, but when you have your entire home with you it is a little more troubling. Certainly restricts your interest in leaving the boat unattended. Once again we are happy to have Roq aboard. He is the most harmless animal ever to walk the earth, but island folks are generally pretty scared of him.
After setting out for the port, it was a tough slog up the lagoon around the weather side of Dublon. Fairly similar to yesterday actually. Once we turned down wind things mellowed out and we had a nice trip around Weno in protected water to the port on the west side of the island. We hailed port control an hour out and they asked us to tie up to the main quay. The quay is a big ship dock with huge rubber stand offs. They do go from the top of the quay to the water at low tide though so you can work out a horizontal fender arrangement that will do a fair job of protecting the topsides.
A Dutch freighter was just leaving for Pohnpei as we arrived. The quay is huge, and once the m/v Islander had gone, it was empty. I think they get about one ship a week but the quay looks like it belongs in the port of Long Beach. Very nice. Too open to swell and chop for yachts though and it is the only place to tie up in Chuuk that we know of.
John from the port came by to clear us in and go over the fees with us. It was $25 a night to stay on the quay (something we would like to do for as short a period as possible), $25 for the first two nights anchored out, and $10 per night thereafter. Pretty expensive as islands in the middle of no where with no real services to speak of go. Next we saw customs. A copy of the ships docs, a list of previous and next ports, and a crew list sorted him out. Then quarantine, $25 and the "I usually confiscate all of the food on board but you can keep yours just don't bring it ashore" speech. They have no incinerator so we could not take out our trash (ug). Immigration showed up at 5:30PM, to ensure overtime payment which totaled $57.50. They were the ones interested in our cruising permit, oddly. We had to print them a copy of the application we sent to Pohnpei. They took off with our passports until further notice. Hopefully we'll get the cruising permit tomorrow at 11AM when she promised to come back.
The weather has been much the same all day with squalls continuously running by. The port is pretty sheltered from the east wind though and the swell is not too bad in our berth. The locals seem to have no concept of how unpleasant it is to have someone blast by your yacht when you're up against a concrete quay. One guy came by 6 feet off for a good look, under full throttle. We'll fuel up and be out of here shortly after, immigration allowing.
In the evening all three boats headed to the Hard Wreck Cafe at the Truk Stop hotel for dinner. This is a nice place right on the water with a casual, kind of southern USA motel, atmosphere. They are just down the road from the port and have a nice dinghy (really dive boat) dock too. The food was good and so were the prices. The owner, Bill, is an American and a very friendly guy. They have a dive shop and seem to be pretty popular with the dive tourists. It was wonderful to eat in a real restaurant. I think our last "real" restaurant was Honiara.
We had a quiet walk back to the port past the two big grocery stores, a hardware store and some other shops. We are looking forward to some shopping and exploring tomorrow.
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02/02/2009, North Pacific
It was yet another nasty 24 hours but we are happily anchored in Chuuk Lagoon off of Uman island. We had total overcast last night and constant squalls. I have never seen this kind of weather before. The atmosphere literally pumped out new squalls constantly. We had a hit or a near miss every hour or two. As soon as one would pass we would either see the next immediately upon us or it would materialize after a short break where the wind would go light and variable in the dense overcast.
Once used to the process I think I preferred the constant squalls, at least that way you're moving. We got good at slowing down to let the leading envelope go by, then sliding into the rear curtain to catch the wind in the 20s. Drier that way too.
We tried to avoid the really hot spots if possible. We never saw more than 35 knots steady but I'm sure some of them had more at the inner envelope. The problem with wind over thirty is that we were trying to make a beam or close reach. At 35 knots on the beam you go so fast that you are crashing through the steep 9 foot seas and launching the boat like Evil Kenival in Las Vegas. You can sail like that, and I know that some do, but this is our house and when you are in the middle of no where it is good to avoid breaking things. One shackle or block giving way would create a big headache.
When it got too hot, I pinched the boat and crabbed along at 3 knots until it let up. We got to the point where we put reef two in the main and just left it in. We would have made better time if we'd gone back to full main, reef one and down but it is just too much work on a long passage with constant bad weather. Swingin' on a Star sails quite nicely under double reefed main and jib so even when things were lighter we move out ok.
As we got within 50 miles of Chuuk we began to make contact with Angelique on the VHF. We had just seen the barometer drop 3 points in the last hour and I wanted to know what was happening where they were. We were at 1006 but Angelique reported 1010. Nice to know it was local only. Very very rare to get a TRS here at all, much less this time of year, but good to know what is happening around you regardless. The weather had continued to deteriorate from our perspective and the lulls were blowing at 20 knots now and the seas were keeping in time.
We had departed with a pretty good forecast with decent wind and minimal convection. The problem with forecasts in the south pacific, and this part of the equatorial pacific, is that there are no developed nations here. If you are in waters of interest to the USA you can get a pretty solid forecast. The satellite coverage in this part of the world is not on a par nor is the talent interpreting the data from what we have seen. I would rate the forecasts here at 50% of the accuracy of those in the Caribbean or Hawaii area. As an example, our forecast from yesterday night for the waters surrounding Chuuk was "partly cloudy and isolated showers". The reality was well beyond "mostly cloudy and scattered squalls", into the "total overcast and continual squalls" zone. Even 12 hours out the forecast was not even close.
Kuop atoll is just south of Chuuk lagoon and we were looking forward to getting behind it. We would sail much faster without the big sharp seas, not to mention increasing comfort aboard. We were doing 9 knots and close to the atoll when another squall formed up and came sliding down between us and Kuop. There was nothing to do but head up and slow down. It blew by in a half hour or so with wind in the 30s. We took care to keep plenty of sea room between us and the atoll. Our charts were good but apparently not perfectly aligned for WGS84 when compared to radar. The squalls were so full of rain that you couldn't see through them with radar and the atoll had a vary light leeward return anyway because it is just submerged reef for the most part.
It was getting close to sunset and we really needed to make Chuuk lagoon or find an alternate. Anchoring at the atoll was a possibility but the south pass was not looking good given the seas rolling by. There are two passes on the chart located along the west side of the reef but they are both narrow and shallow as charted. Doable though perhaps.
We pressed on and got rerouted or slowed a bit by two more squalls. Things seemed to be getting nastier. Perhaps the higher islands in the Chuuk lagoon were launching even more convection or perhaps the weather was just going that way.
We came out from behind Kuop a little more than an hour before sunset and the seas came up quite a bit. We were behind Chuuk at this point, but the channel and the now 20 plus steady wind was making a mess of things. Two more squalls passed in front of us and we were now sailing in 30 knots apparent (probably 23 true) steady. As we got close to the pass we rolled up the jib and started the engines. Both Yanmars came up, so down went the main. Our course through he south pass was dead to weather and we didn't want the hassle of sails flogging about. If you have only one auxiliary perhaps it would be wise to leave the main up in this sort of situation.
We came in the pass on our charted track and finally got in contact with Whistler. He had made the port around 15:00 and indicated that the track was good through the pass. As we came in through the pass the seas were big. Steep three and four footers came right at us. It was hard to see the shoals to port and starboard as the pass is deep and wide. It was also close to sunset and very overcast. If this wasn't a ship caliber channel (very wide and deep) we probably would have had to stay outside. Staying outside here would require sailing well off the surrounding reefs.
Angelique had anchored two miles outside of the pass but pulled up to follow us in. We had though that perhaps the lagoon would be calmer than outside, but it is a very large lagoon. It was as bad or worse as the area outside the pass, smaller waves but steeper. We bashed into big head seas and 20-30 knots of apparent wind for another hour to reach Uman island, which seemed like the best and closest place to anchor for the night. It is 20 miles inside the lagoon through shoals and many ship wrecks to the port but it was only 6 miles to Uman.
As we approached the leeward side of Uman the seas went flat and the wind relented. It is a nice little harbor. It was getting fairly dark but we came in close to the island until we found 60 feet. We made a circle around the spot to ensure that there were no hazards in the swinging arc and then dropped the Rocna. The anchor set instantly, and then I heard the unpleasant sound of coral scraping the chain. It doesn't hurt our chain but it is no good for the coral. I don't like to damage coral bottoms. Our chart gave no indication of the bottom type here but given the scuba reputation Chuuk has I would guess that pure sand is tricky to come by.
Angelique arrived shortly afterwords and anchored farther out. Everyone was glad to be out of the weather. Hideko made us a wonderful dinner, then we took hot showers and slept like logs.
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02/01/2009, North Pacific
What an ugly 24 hours. Hideko's shift started at 8PM and by the time it was over at 2AM we were surrounded by squalls. We were getting hit left and right with the wind going from light and variable to 20 plus knots, with an array of directions as far as 90 degrees off of the forecast gradient wind. We tried to pick a window to sail for Chuuk with as little cloud forecast as possible, so much for the cloud cover data in the GRIBs.
Squally nights are a drag for short handed crews. If you are racing, just just assign trimmers to squeeze every inch out of the wind wherever it comes from and at whatever the strength. If you are a couple trying to get somewhere, you want to reef down, set course and alternately with your partner, sleep or enjoy a quiet watch. Squalls, particularly strong ones, make both of the later hard to do.
By mid way through my shift I was seeing a fair amount of lightning and some large solid shapes moving about on the radar. I began tracking a really big rain mass vectoring in on us at about 5AM. We had reef one in the main, standard night protocol, but something told me that wasn't going to be enough for this one. Just as I started to reef down Hideko came up to check on things. "Want some help?", she said. Yes please! We got reef two in the main just as the storm came on.
As they often do, this one hit like a wall. Calm, then 10 knots and quickly 15 and some rain, then rapidly 20 knots and pounding rain, followed immediately by 25 knots and a total black out, then 30 knots. You never know how far they are going to go until they stop going, and you never know if you've got enough reefs in either. Reef three on this boat is a go forward and collect the main sail at the mast affair, I was hoping not to need that. The wind howled up to 35 knots and the already moderate seas began to get really peaky and unpleasant.
We were progressively rolling more and more jib up but I couldn't take up too much because I had to balance the double reefed main some. Too little jib and we would have a hard time steering. I had the boat pinched and mostly stalled (around 3-4 knots SOG) to keep the apparent wind under 40 but it was gusting up there anyway. Just as I was starting to formulate a plan for putting reef three in, so that we could still make progress if things kept building, the system settled in. I could tell it didn't have any more in it.
It was a big nasty thunderstorm though, and it wasn't over in a minute, like the run of the mill squall. It kept pumping out 30 some knots of wind and the accompanying seas for almost an hour. Every now and then a blast of light would illuminate everything around, a startling contrast to the total blackness otherwise extant. As nasty as it is when you're in it, there's nothing you can really do but protect the boat and head for the exit as best as possible. So Hideko went back to sleep and I just drove the boat. I was kind of tired so I went back to the auto pilot but it took me a while to get used to riding it so that we didn't tack or go beam onto the wind. I got a little lazy at one point and we ended up crashing through waves at 13 knots.
Two hours later when the wind finally came down under 25 knots we got a nice ride for an hour or so before the wind went light again. It was overcast the rest of the day with minor squalls everywhere. This has been perhaps our gloomiest passage to date. Odd in the northern hemisphere trades. Oh well, we are still on schedule for an arrival in Chuuk late tomorrow so hopefully we'll see some stars tonight (I'm not holding my breath).
Hideko Says: "zzzz, sleeping"
158 nm to Chuuk
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