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Swingin' on a Star
Ship's log for the circumnavigating Saint Francis 50 catamaran, "Swingin on a Star".
Yacht Hostile Peleliu
Randy
07/03/2009, Peleliu

We visited the Peleliu state office in Koror last week to arrange for a visit and were given the green light. We arrived last night and called in this morning to setup a quick meet with the officials and then head out to take photos and capture the highlights for the guide.

Long story short, we were told yachts are not allowed to anchor in South Dock (the only place to anchor) and that we would have to pay $3 per day each every day we were on land. I explained that we were writing a cruising guide and that we were hoping to bolster tourism revenues for the people of Peleliu. It seemed not to matter. The governor pushed off our meetings twice and we finally gave up. We of course paid $6 for the privilege of riding all the way into town to be told to get out.

Palau
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Angaur
Randy
07/02/2009, Palau

We got up early today (7:30) and talked to the governor of Angaur, Mr. Salii. He is a great guy and welcomed us to visit Angaur. His office is in Koror, like most government, but the cell coverage in Omekang was just good enough to connect us.

It took us a little over four hours to motor along our test track lines out the Denges pass, southeast of Mecherechar and around Peleliu to Angaur. We arrived in the Angaur dock at 13:00. It is a small place but as long as the state boat isn't in port, which it isn't very often (mostly on pay days as it turns out), you can just tie up to the wall. They get one or two yachts a year at present, so you won't have competition. We'd like to change that by getting the word out on Angaur. It is fantastically beautiful.

Angaur is not a big place, but you can easily spend a day biking around the island. The old WWII era roads are beautiful and the entire trek is under the cover of a lush canopy. Monkeys play in the upper branches and alert their clan members as you approach, two foot long monitor lizards slither across the limestone rocks, and brilliant red dragon flies flit about the verdant foliage hanging from the huge banyan trees and covering the ground.

Somehow the road stays clear. While you could arrange a place to stay in Angaur I would recommend a day trip, tie up at the dock, rent bikes or bust out those folders you bought but haven't used in six months and enjoy. There are blow holes, pill boxes, was memorials, a statue of the Virgin Mary looking out over the sea to protect all of the wayward fishermen, and pretty beaches.

The folks are very laid back and quiet in Angaur and there are only 80 of them. Outside of the small town we saw no one all day. Angaur is another secret treasure of Palau and we are so glad we visited. It is certainly the most lovely bike ride we have done in our recollection.

We raced the sunset at the end of the day and made it back to Peleliu South Dock. We are anchored inside and deciding whether to take another look around Peleliu (we've done one tour already) it to make for German channel early AM and keep capturing track data.

Palau
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07/06/2009 | Pab'n'Lou (tavox99 att yahoo dott com)
Hope you guys had a great 4th of July, we missed you on the 3rd on the 4th... The 5th... Everyday.
07/25/2009 | Randy Abernethy (randy dott abernethy att gmail dott com)
We miss you guys too! We love to hang out with you in Palau soon, but in the mean time we'll be coming to visit you in LA!
Omekang
Randy
07/01/2009, Two Dog Beach

We finished the Rock Islands section research! Today we wrapped up Mecherechar and moved to Omekang and finished the soundings we needed there for the cruising guide. It was a lovely day. It rained a bit after sunset but we were already inside sifting through the days information. We have a visit to Anguar the southernmost island in the main group planned for tomorrow and then back to town.

Palau is an amazing place. It keeps surprising us every day we go look around. Today we found a low water snorkel tunnel that lead to an otherwise land locked marine lake. There was a WWII bomb on the bottom along the back edge, not to mention an amazing selection of different coral species and lots of good sized fish. A huge cloud of squid greeted us at the entrance. It was a great snorkel.

Palau
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A Wrap on Mecharchar
Randy
06/30/2009, Mecharchar

We put the polish on Mecharchar today. Mecharchar is a surprising area. The inside, which looks safe and cozy on a chart or sat image, is treacherous, with coral bars everywhere, isolated rocks, deep anchorages where you find any, and a rare plot of sand without some hard stuff on the bottom.

When you look at the outside on a chart it looks, well, like the outside. Exposed. However if you look around you will find some of the most beautiful anchorages in Palau on Mecharchar's southwest and south coasts. There is even a lake accessible by dinghy with hundreds of Jellyfish swimming about, much like the official Jellyfish lake in Mecharchar's interior.

We had a great day exploring and running routes. We left around 9AM and got home around 7PM. It was nice in the morning and then rained on us at lunch time. We found a great limestone arch on the south coast and ducked in to eat while the rain came down. The afternoon was another blue sky stretch allowing us to work late to finish up. I don't think we've ever come so close to filling the Garmin's track memory.

Palau
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Marshmello Lake
Randy
06/29/2009, Mecharchar

We finished up Ulong this morning and headed over to Mecharchar. Mecharchar is the group with the famous Jelly Fish Lake and not so famous, but very cool, Clam City. We got about half of the place surveyed today. There is a large pass on the east side between Mecharchar and Ngeruktabel suitable for big boats. Some of the islands in this area have the most lovely beaches. It was a beautiful day so we got a lot of great photos for the book (and the web site when we get to a decent internet connection).

We are anchored in the back of Mecharchar which is tricky to get into. Strangely there are coral bars blocking every path to the back part of Mecharchar. We know of two passes but are hoping to find a better route usable at low water tomorrow. We shall see...

Palau
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Swiftlet Lagoon
Randy
06/28/2009, Ulong

The cruising guide is taking shape. 140 pages as of last night. We put the polish on Ngeruktabel today. Nice to be done with that monster. We are now polishing up Ulong and anchored in Swiftlet Lagoon. It doesn't get much nicer. It rained all around us today but we managed to stay in the blue sky bits. Got some good photos of a big piece of Yapese stone money. Tomorrow we wrap up Mecharchar.

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06/28/2009 | Frank Taylor (frank att gearthblog dott com)
Speaking of photos. Do you guys upload photos to a gallery somewhere? I'd love to see photos along with your blog posts...
07/25/2009 | Randy Abernethy (randy dott abernethy att gmail dott com)
These posts were all over the SSB email, so text only. Photos are on the way though.
Cross Roads
Randy
06/27/2009, Ngeruktabel

We are back in Ngeruktabel. It is a huge collection of Rock Islands. We are trying to anchor around as many places as possible, our anchorage tonight is Cross Roads, so named for the many different ways into the area. It is a pretty place in 50 feet of sand/marl.

It has rained almost all day but we managed to get onto the Sam's Tours dock at around 11:00 to fuel up. It being Saturday, all of the locals were hanging around, going out fishing and what have you.

We had a nice dinghy track recording session in the late afternoon and finished up Ngeruktabel. Tomorrow we move on to Mecharchar. We have don a little work there but have much more to do.

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