A fabulous sail along the west coast of Mull in light winds and sunshine became a slog to windward in the Sound of Mull, our destination Tobermory. The colourful waterfront attracts many visitors and we had been warned that it could be crowded, yet for the two days of our stay there were spaces on the moorings, pontoons and space to anchor. The people we have meet have remarked that visitor numbers are down this year ashore or afloat.
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Taransay Mhor anchored in Tinkers Hole, Ross of Mull
The starter motor escapade delayed our arrival here by a day and we found it pleasantly empty. Our intention had been to go over to the nearby island of Iona and explore, but a strong east wind made stopping there this time doubtful. We decided to go on to Gometra and come back another day.
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Approaching Fingals Cave on the island of Staffa
An afternoon sail to North Harbour on Gometra included a diversion to see the famous Fingal's Cave and its basalt columns.
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Cleaning up the defunct Starter Motor
Sailing past The Isle of Mull the wind got so light that we decided to motor on to Tinker's Hole an anchorage at the western end of Mull, but a turn of the ignition key produced a big clunk from the engine bay and nothing more.
Once safely anchored a four mile drift back downwind in Carsaig Bay we looked at the problem. I read the 'Troubleshooting engines book' and Colin opened up the motor casing. Inside the springs and brushes were found covered in sticky black carbon deposits. Colin transferred the black gunge from the motor to the cockpit floor and reinstalled the starter motor.
What a difference, the engine fired easily. We had noticed the engine had been sluggish to start recently, now we know why.
Take a look in the Gallery where we added more photos today
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Tidal whirlpools in the Dorus Mor
After leaving the Crinan Canal we passed a couple of wet windy nights in Ardfern Marina at the top of Loch Craignish. Next the tidal gateway of Dorus Mor and the Sound of Luing. There were lots of these tidal whirlpools around the boat and our speed was greatly enhanced by the current. Although no wind meant we had to motor all the way to Puilladobhrain (Puldohran) a beautiful and popular anchorage.
On the way a stop for lunch at the island of Seil renowned for the flooded slate mines found here. The quay we landed the dinghy by was constructed from slates laid vertically, most unusual. In fact everything was made of slate the garden walls, houses, car parks, there was even a wheelbarrow being loaded up by the roadside for someone's latest home improvements.
Due to some misunderstanding the last entry has been expanded to ensure that you understand it was the bicycle belonging to Colin that fell in the canal, not Colin himself.
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Moored on the Crinan Canal
Late Afternoon we entered the canal at Ardrisaig, in the same lock was a boat of experienced racing crew that transit the Crinan often. They were very helpful and passed on lots of useful tips, like having fenders both high and low on the lockside. We were going up and when the lock had been filled the high fenders are swinging in clear air.
The bikes had an outing too, after Colin's had fallen off the pontoon in to the water! ( Colin stayed dry it is the cycle that got wet ) They gave us a quick ride to reach the Crinan end and to see where we were going.
The race boat that helped us in the locks was owned by one of the sponsors of West Highland Race Week, before they left we had been treated to supper aboard and a handful of lovely Tunnock's Caramel Wafers, our favourite.
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Peaceful early morning
Anchored in a beautiful spot last night. At sunrise we could see just what makes this part of the world such a popular cruising area. The rain clouds of yesterday had cleared to reveal dramatic emerald hills, a perfect backdrop for this sheltered nook.
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Moored by the Bute Ferry
Having a lazy time cruising around Arran, Bute and the Kyles of Bute.
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The bonded store, packed with casks of malt whisky
The best thing to do on a rainy day in Scotland.
Also take a swim in the modern leisure centre pool...
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Colin dives on the prop to free a bunch of weed & line
Coming round the Mull of Galloway, well 5 miles off, the water boiled with tidal restlessness, then a familiar laboured engine noise alerted us that something was wrong. Despite our efforts with forward & reverse there was no joy so we jogged up to Loch Ryan where Colin took a 'refreshing' dip to free the propeller of the junk which included a foil balloon.
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