After an action packed three weeks with the "Nubile nymph's" our new crew, Ian & Gail Morrison, have settled into a slower pace of travel as we explore many of the Northern Islands of the Vanuatu Group as we weave our way back to Port Vila. Ian and Gail arrived at night into Luganville Aiport (old WW2 American airfeild), missing Annie & Erin by an hour is all.
Early the next morning, we went ashore & rented a double canoe for Ian & Gail. The objective was to go to a blue hole " which is an aquifer outlet a few kilometers up a winding stream from our bay. I rowed as I had done a day before. After a slow start(& an unintended swim)Ian & Gail got into their stride. The forest here is quite unique, large buttressed tress with amazing root systems, lots of ferns and hanging vines, parrots etc. The scene looks like something you would imagine in the Bayou of Florida, no aligators or snakes though. The blue hole is gorgeous clear water & a huge clear flow into a large basin (abt 100 metres) A large Banyon tree is on one side & the locals have built a rough ladder & a swing. Think Tarzan and you'll get it.
You actually swing quite high from the branch of the tree before you let go the rope, not for the faint hearted.
We sailed from Surundu Bay after seeing several dugongs swimming around us.
Our route was to Ambae Island which is a large dormant volcano directly East of Santo. We had a fresh sail & Gail handled the ship in great style, hard on the wind into reasonable seas at 7.5 knots, she was smiling like Annie was a week earlier, both keen sailors. On the way, another boat called out "whales" on the VHF and as they were only a few miles off our track, we turned and headed towards what we could now see was some great soundings. We came across a large pod (abt 14) of Sperm whales. My World Cetacean book from Pete & Yvonne was used to positivley identify these gorgeous creatures.
We looked at this relaxed family, the big males up to 18 metres long and all were lazing around in the seas. The young ones were spy hopping( sticking their heads straight up and looking around) and other juvenilles ( abt 10 metres long ) were rolling around, and not worried about us. The large sperm whales weigh up to 50 tonnes and I think the two large ones were about that, an amazing experience.
On the way to Lolowai Bay on the North East tip of Ambae, we caught two large Mahimahi with Annie's new lures, yippee. Just sorry we didn't do as well with Pam, Christine, Annie & Erin, next time.
We moved across to a lovely anchorage called Asanvari Bay on the South West Coast of Maewo Island. Maewo & Pentacost Islands form the Eastern barrier to the Vanuatu Northern group & are both long & high islands, with villages clinging on to the coastal shelf & in the usable bays. The main feature of Asanvari bay was a large waterfall which dropped almost in to the bay. We rowed ashore here & were welcomed by some locals who are promoting this place, & caring for the wonderful gardens that surround this pretty spot. We paid 500 Vatu ( abt NZ $7 ) and could use as much as we wanted. We all swam under the falls & I even did a big load of wash in the river that exits the falls. I was washing my shirts, shorts & lavava's alongside a local woman, her washboard & scrubbing brush in hand and her mobile phone on a rock next to her. How 21st century!

We are heading back to Ambrym Island that is known for it's volcanoes, black magic & dancing. We hope to see some Rom dancing on Sunday, will keep you posted.

All the best from Taranui and crew. We've done nearly 4,200 Nautical miles now.