Christmas in Trinidad
22 December 2003 | Trinidad, West Indies
Ami
We hop into the crowded maxi taxi, heading back from doing errands in Port of Spain, the capital of Trinidad. The music on the radio is blaring, Trini style. The songs are by local artists, and all familiar to us. Soca songs about Christmas in Trinidad, about love, about rum. Kaiso (Calypso) songs about music in the streets, Parang everywhere. Silent Night, played on the steel drum, with an upbeat Kaiso rhythm. Then a very popular tune, a reminder of the fierce pride Trinis have for their homeland...."Sweet, sweet T & T (Trinidad & Tobago), oh how I love up me country....I Trini to de bone!"
Christmastime in Trinidad is really something special. It's a time of music and celebration, of family and friends, of eating and drinking. The Parang bands play special Christmas tunes with Venezuelan instruments, and the songs are sung in Spanish and Trini English. The island of Trinidad is only 7 miles from the coast of Venezuela, and there is a strong Venezuelan influence here. Traditionally, Parang songs were somber Christmas tunes, but here in Trinidad, they sing the traditional songs with an energetic Kaiso rhythm, and dance up a storm!
From the last week of November, through January 5th, the official end of the Christmas festivities, small Parang bands play in the streets of the outer villages. They go from home to home, where they play music as they are fed and offered rum, and then move on to the next home, often playing till morning, and collecting a bigger crowd of dancing, singing friends as they go. The steel bands play "pan around the neck" in the streets, in the old traditional style, gathering a crowd of celebrating friends and neighbors as they walk down the village streets, playing their sweet sweet pan music through the night, often 'till dawn.
Most of the villages host a children's Christmas party. The villagers all donate to a Christmas fund, and that fund is used to buy one small gift for each and every child. I played pan with Scorpions at a dozen or so of these neighborhood parties, and it was touching to how the community looks out after their own, making sure each child will receive one gift for Christmas. The women serve up hearty helping of Pelau (a popular local dish of rice, beans, vegis and meat), and the rum flows freely. A very black Santa helps to bring cheer to the parties as well.
Christmastime is really just one big festival here in Trinidad, and we are really enjoying taking part in it. Still, we miss friends and family more now, and you are all in our thoughts.
Merry Christmas to everyone. And best wishes for the new year. And, as they say here in Trinidad, "We hope yuh enjoying yuhself!"