True Colours Voyage 2008 - 2010

25 October 2010 | Back Across the Atlantic, West to East
01 August 2010 | Last Stop before the crossing home
09 June 2010 | BVI's
17 May 2010 | Dominican Republic
09 April 2010 | Haiti
03 April 2010 | Jamaica, Cuba, Jamaica
12 March 2010
11 February 2010 | From Venezuela to the ABC Islands
14 November 2009 | Venezuela
01 October 2009 | Los Testigos
03 September 2009 | Grenada
05 August 2009 | Grenada
07 June 2009 | Wallilabou, St Vincent
28 May 2009 | St Pierre and Petit Anse D'Arlet
28 May 2009 | 15 52.0'N:61 35.4'W
14 May 2009
26 April 2009 | All over the place!

Ever Eastwards....

17 May 2010 | Dominican Republic
Guess what - the weather forecast was not what we got on the way to the Dominican Republic. Winds blew up to 30 knots, we got a few soakings, it dropped off for a while and then low and behold just 20nm from our preferred destination it blew with a vengeance at 30 knots again.

We put in to a safe but not particularly picturesque harbour off Cabo Rojo, sailing over uncharted shallows (O metres!) and catching sight of what we think must have been a large ray diving quickly underwater as we approached (I thought at first it was someone snorkelling as it was brown and large!). We were immediately visited by a fishing boat which rammed into our topsides, scraping along the paintwork - the last thing we needed really after a trying passage. One of the five men in the boat shouted at Dave for "Despacho Despacho!" (official papers) and Dave shouted back that we had no "Despacho" and they weren't coming alongside our boat and shooed them away. The man gesticulated at Dave and shouted "mucho problemo!" and they sped off ashore. Minutes later the boat came back out, this time with four aboard including a couple of armed officials with uniforms and badges who boarded the boat in a friendly manner (although the fisherman did bump into us again before we could get fenders out!) and scribbled some notes on a bit of scrap paper. They asked for beers which Dave supplied out of his dwindling stocks and then left us alone to enjoy a rest.

The next morning another couple of officials visited, scribbled more notes on more scrap paper and left us in peace without asking for beer which was a relief. We spent a relaxing day at anchor before leaving the next morning for Isla Beata, about 25nm away.

The sail to Beata wasn't too bad and we made it by lunchtime. Again, within minutes, we were boarded this time by three men - two officials and a fisherman. What a surprise, they scribbled some notes on some scrap paper, took our "despacho" from Jamaica and promised to supply another the day before we leave.

We spent five nights anchored of this pretty beach and went for a couple of walks ashore. The island was fairly busy with fishermen working from their huts on the beach when we first arrived but by the time we left there were almost none left as all had gone on "shore leave". The only other inhabitants of the island, apart from the Guarda Costa, were the abundant large iguanas. I am not sure if their numbers are kept down by the fishermen but one of the locals did agree that they taste good.....

On the second night we were surprised to find another UK boat at anchor a short distance from us The young couple and their lively little boy were headed in the opposite direction towards Cuba. We joined them for a (noisy!) sundowner on their second evening and then they were off on their way the next day after swapping information on what each boat could expect from thereon in.

On our last day we went for quite a hike along the coast, making our way over the rocky terrain made up, we think, of volcanic rock.

Before we left, Fi by chance went in for a quick dip and spotted a blag plastic bag wrapped around the prop. After several attempts at removing it there was still some stuck in there so Dave dived down and freed the last few shreds. Dave had thought there was something not quite right so that was obviously the reason.

We motored out of the anchorage early the next morning and motored up between the mainland and the island for about 10 miles then managed to start sailing at about 4 knots but on a bad course.

After several hours we decided that we would motorsail the course better so the engine was started. About an hour later the engine revs went down rapidly so Dave threw the gears into neutral and, in the quickly descending dark and with a line around his waist went over the side to inspect the prop. The underwater torch came in handy although it kept going off but in-between times Dave could see the large plastic bag that he managed to free with three or four dives. He commented afterwards that the phosphorescence was amazing and worth going overboard for but, although the swell was fairly light, I have to say I wasn't too happy until he was safely back onboard.

The next morning we had a cockpit wash and by noon were being guided in to the marina by their launch where we went alongside and checked in. We went and picked up a mooring buoy which was the cheaper option (the fees for clearing in were really excessive) and settled in for a week or so at Boca Chica.

As it was Easter weekend many people were at the beach and we took a stroll along there the next day but found it was just row upon row of hotel frontages and not much of interest apart from some volley ball tournament going on which was enough for Dave to stop and "admire the scenery" for a while.

We took a trip into Santa Domingo, going by bus which involved a few changes and trust in people directing us here and there without having a clue as to what was going on. We checked into a hotel for a night which sits on the same square as the cathedral in which Christopher Columbus was supposedly buried. The cathedral was closed all afternoon which was an ominous sign and, as there's no "tourist information" as such the locals just shrugged and said it should be open. We had a walk around the vicinity and saw quite a few old buildings and fortifications, most of which now house museums. Santa Domingo is the oldest city in the Caribbean and, although if you look hard you can see some of the history, we both thought it was a little spoilt by all the touristy-type shops around it's centre. We did end up buying two things we couldn't afford - a hand-crocheted long dress for Fi and a beautiful wooden bowl (for a house we don't have?!)

That night we went out and found a restaurant in the back streets where we had a delicious meal before retiring back to the hotel to watch tv in bed - a real novelty! Ordering coffee via the room phone the next morning was a major task but eventually it was delivered - coffee for two really means you'll just get two cups of coffee, a pot is unheard of. Dave also had to pay for it there and then as they wouldn't put it on the bill which involved a lot of jostling around with a towel wrapped around his waist whilst he retrieved money from his shorts. It could have got quite scary but he managed in the end!

We were pleased to find the cathedral open the next morning, only to discovered that Chris C is no longer there and is now buried, under full ceremonial guard, in a casket which is the centrepiece of a lighthouse that has been built about 7 miles away at the other side of the river. A taxi ride later and we finally found him, or whatever remains of him, in this very impressive and befitting position for such a great explorer.

Back at Boca Chica we got all the laundry done, fuelled up and watered up and finally set off for our next and final stop in the DR, Casa de Campo, at the eastern end of the island. Leaving the harbour we had surfers on each side of us riding the waves into the bay and we continued motoring out a good while to get a better angle on the wind. We ended up motor-sailing the whole way, with the wind doing little to assist us, and encountered a squall which dropped the visibility down to next to nothing just as we were making our way between two islands and with a tug coming up fast behind us. Typical, don't see anything for weeks near us and just when it gets busy - no visibility! Anyway, we survived with the help of radar and crossed fingers and finally picked up the entrance to Casa de Campo. A boat came out to help us into our berth where half a dozen happy helpers assisted us in.

Casa de Campo is the height of luxury, with prices to match! It is a golfing resort (3 courses) with polo, horse riding, shooting, swimming, tennis, private beach, and an amphitheatre where acts such as Sting and Pavarotti have performed. The amphitheatre is part of a village built to look very old, set atop a hill overlooking the river and complete with church where, apparently, Michael Jackson married whatshername Presley.

We met a guy called Gary who is skipper of a humungous sports fishing boat, and his girlfriend Dana. They were berthed along the same pontoon and invited us onboard for cocktails one evening as we were passing by. They're a great couple and there's nothing worth knowing that Gary doesn't know about fishing. The boat is amazing - the engine room is about as big as our boat with two huge engines. It burns something like 130 gallons an hour (so it's range isn't more than a few hundred miles) and has 7 televisions on board. How the other half live! Needless to say quite a few evenings were spent sharing a drink with them onboard and eventually, Fi plucked up the courage one morning to go up to the top deck from where the view was amazing. Gary explained it was where he sits when they're out catching the big fish as he can see everything that's going on from up there.

We also met Jean Marc who was there working for Rolex who were in turn main sponsors of the Rolex Farr 40 World Championships. They're a one-design and about 25 of them were due to race; however, only about 10 showed. We asked him onboard for a beer, got talking, and offered to help him unload and set up all the displays and stuff he had to do in the next few days. He kindly paid us for this, as well as taking us and one of the marina guys, Jose, for a meal and giving us Rolex bb caps and polo shirts. We really enjoyed helping so any payment was a bonus!

Eventually, the weather looked about right for us to carry on our journey, across the Mona Passage and past Puerto Rico, to the British Virgin Islands.
Comments
Vessel Name: True Colours
Vessel Make/Model: Nicholson 35
Hailing Port: Gosport
Crew: Dave Dog and Fi
About: Please call in from time to time and leave a comment (we're thick-skinned!) - makes it worthwhile if we know it's being looked at!
Extra: This Voyage has been and gone but we hope it may not be the last so watch out for us again someday....

True Colours

Who: Dave Dog and Fi
Port: Gosport
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