Picture: Pam at the Taj Mahal.

The day after completing our 6-day trek we boarded a plane from Pokhara to Katmandu and then on to Delhi. The only reason for visiting India was for Pam to do a one-week yoga course in a country setting. I though it would be a good idea to visit the Taj Mahal since Agra is reasonably close to Delhi. Pam reluctantly agreed although it was to her a very low priority.

On arrival in India, the shock to the system was so great that Pam wanted to go straight back to the boat. The temperature was 45°C (113°F) in Delhi and 48°C (118°F) in Agra and very humid since the monsoon season is starting. The noise and filth on the street is awful. People and cows and cow poop and trash everywhere and cars and motorbikes continually blowing their horns. We just wanted to go back to the boat but we were so close to doing the yoga course in Pam’s “bucket” list. On top of all the environmental issues, every time we got a taxi it took us to a friend of the driver who could sell us what we needed – in the driver’s opinion. We would ask to go to the address of a travel agent or hotel and end up somewhere else – this happened not just once but every time we got a cab in Delhi (3 times). We got very upset with the whole place.

Eventually we rented an air-conditioned taxi to take us to the Taj Mahal in Agra and then on to Rishikesh, famous for its Yoga ashrams. The Taj Mahal lived up to expectations but as soon as we got off the freeway on the way to Rishikesh, 420 km (260 miles) north of Agra the roads are a nightmare. Agra is 220 km (136 miles) south of Delhi so our total mileage was 640 km (396 miles). Taxis are very cheap. The whole trip including all meals and two nights in hotels was $US400 for the two of us. It took two days and two nights.

When we got to Rishikesh it took about 3 days to locate a suitable yoga course but it was a month long course, not a week, and the ashram is in town, not in the countryside like we had hoped. However, it is on the banks of the Ganges, which is a holy river. The course is very intense, six days a week Pam is up at 5 a.m. and the last class ends at 19:30 hours. She does have short breaks for private study throughout the day and the food is good, except its vegan and there is no beer available in this region at all. Our room is also good and overlooks the Ganges but since it’s an ashram the twin (single) beds are like boards and there is no air-conditioning. Despite the difficulties, Pam is coping very well with all the physical exercise and study.

We get to go out on Sundays, last Sunday we went to the Ashram where the Beatles spent a month or two in the late 1960’s. It is a short walk into the countryside but unfortunately it is in ruins, however, it was still a good visit. There is a big sign saying, “Do not enter” so we climbed over the wall. Pam and I were with two friends, both from Australia, Kamella and Ellie, both very nice people. The ashram itself is very interesting and covers several acres and must have been good in its day. It has about 60 or 70 two-story stone “igloos” for mediation. The ground floor has a toilet and shower etc. The Indian Government has declared it a public reserve so it would be good if it could be restored, I am sure people would be willing to pay to go in.

At the time of writing, Pam is halfway through the course and I am counting down. I attend one class only, Meditation, because there is no way that I can keep up with the yoga classes, they are far too advanced for me. Most of the students are young and experienced like Pam (since its a teacher’s course) and they come from all over the world. Meanwhile the cows and poop and trash and the flies are everywhere and the power keeps going out and water sometimes gets turned off. It’s very hot even though we are in a mountainous region. The single lane streets outside are filled with people walking, and dogs, monkeys, cows, beggars, vendors, and cars and motorbikes with their horns blaring all the time. Pam and I have to cover our ears. As the Ganges is a holy river there are people under the ashram windows all day, bathing, chanting, drumming on bongos and talking in very loud voices so we can’t hear what the teacher is saying. Apart from that it’s OK. As I always say, “Mustn’t grumble!”