The plan was to stop in Kavieng for just a few days. Buy fuel, LPG and more trading goods for the remote islands. Hanging around the biggest town for hundreds of kilometers did not interest us.

Dorothy works in the kitchen of the Nusa Island Retreat near where Tenaya floats, across the channel from town. When I mention I love the carved masks decorating the dining room, she says her father made them. She invites Jim and me to see them in her village. Yippee! We love visiting villages.

Her father is Mundo. He carves masks, dolphins and fish and we buy a sampling of each. When he offers to carve a mask with a long tongue especially for us, I am thrilled and give him a big hug.

On the way back from Panakondo we walk along the shore and meet people whose houses we can see from Tenaya. We ask their permission to anchor in front of their village, explaining it is our home and we appreciate parking our home in their bay. We invite them out to visit and are surprised when say they have never been asked aboard before.

We carry a small 2x3" portable Polaroid printer and offer to print pictures. It is a great way for us to give them something for their hospitality. Everyone is happy!

We have been here two weeks. The people have assured us Tenaya is safe in the small anchorage. Even in town, people are nice. Many say hello before we do. When we ask about arranging to buy 300 liters of diesel, Malcolm says he will find a boat and bring out a 200 liter drum with a pump and cans holding the remaining 100 liters - no need to leave the anchorage. He does so the next day. Again we are surprised he has never been aboard a yacht and invite the three of them to have a look and a cold Coke.

The diving around Kavieng is spectacular! We've taken our PADI Advanced Open Water dive course with Scuba Ventures Kavieng and plan to do more dives with them. We have slow but reliable internet using a dongle. The anchorage is calm and the water is warm. It will be hard to leave Kaveing.