Tern's Travels

We had a certain feeling of achievement arriving in Norway at dawn. The inland "leads" are often sheltered and we motored the 20NM up to Bergen, marvelling at the new scenery: islands with pristine coloured houses, many with private jetty and boathouse. Bergen is an ancient port, once capital of Norway and it is still thriving, vibrant and surprisingly cosmopolitan. It's on the cruise liner circuit and there were three in the harbour that weekend, which was a 4 day public holiday. Hence the Brygge (public quay) was heaving and the town swollen with tourists. We were a bit tired for sightseeing so after a quick sleep and breakfast then a stroll to the tourist office, went off to find a peaceful spot. We found a very friendly welcome in suburban Eidsvag, 4NM, where we recovered over the weekend, found the "shop": a very well-stocked supermarket, and tried our new inflatable canoe. The canoe expedition was a bit wobbly but we eventually remembered we hadn't fitted the keel, once rectified, divorce was no longer on the cards.
We moved back to the Brygge on Monday, filled up with diesel, and did a bit of sight-seeing. What a beautiful city! Vagen, the old warf area, is a world Heritage site, lovingly preserved, and the rest of the city is also fascinating, with a funicular railway up one of the 7 hills which surround it.
Our original intention had been to get as far north as early in the season as possible and then to see places further south on the way back. So after a brief visit to Bergen we set off north and made our way through the leads between islands. We anchored in a couple of very tranquil, remote spots, then stopped in the convenient village of Askvoll to refuel and shop. The dues for staying on pontoons are quite reasonable and services are often included so we were able to do laundry and shower, though no free wifi. Onwards to Svanoy, a delightful island which is home to the Norwegian Deer Centre. The wind direction has dictated that we stay here till Monday, making the most of the quiet quay and island. Highlights included a classical piano and cello recital in the "folkcentre" and a big walk. We set off on the "long walk" around the island, diligently following instructions and arrows, then blue string tied to trees until all markings ran out high in the forest! Typically, our walk turned into an adventure and we found ourselves following our compass down steep forest ravines until we eventually found the track home, all sunlight and birdsong! Recovering with some local smoked salmon and white wine, we are beginning to explore the Norwegian cuisine. Today we are happily spending a rainy day with the free wifi. Off north again tomorrow.