Tern's Travels

Across the Arctic Circle
Monday 12 - Sat 17 June 67-17N, 014-22E Bodo
Rorvik to Bodo is 177NM of some of the most dramatic scenery you could ever see from the sea, with snow-topped mountains rearing straight out of the water. Rocky islands make the navigation through leads always interesting and we were fortunate to have mainly SW wind so we could sail most of the time.
We stopped at Leka, the national geological monument and visited the Viking burial site. It's a large island to explore so we may return and hire bikes to see the serpentine rock on the west side and caves in the south. We put our creel into the crystal clear water over the breakwater and were rewarded with shore crabs and fish so the next night we had shore crab soup following a recipe in my Nordic cook book: Gone Fishing.
The way north passes the landmark Torghatten mountain, with a hole through it's middle; it's easy to see how the Nordic mythology makes characters and adventures of landscape features.On through Bronnoysund, a town in a strategic sound where the channel narrows and splits causing swift currents and tide races, and through more leads cutting between the uncompromising mountains. Our night stop was at the south end of the large island of Alsten where we found perfect shelter in which to enjoy our crab soup.The next day, with no wind and low cloud, we were unable to see the massive line of the Seven Sisters mountains, formed when Lekamoya's sisters were also turned to stone by the giant troll, which form the backbone of Alsten.
From here north there are so many choices of ways to cross the Arctic circle, west to the Traena archipelago, other islands north or an eastern detour to the Svartisen glacier. We wanted to go to Svartisen but with the moderate SW wind we decided to sail on northward and plan to visit Svartisen when we return south. It is the second largest glacier in Norway and Europe yet you can sail to it's foot and walk up to it! It is a spectacular sight as you sail north, the massive glacier merging with the clouds.
Actually crossing the Arctic circle was very exciting, passing between the mainland and the tiny island of Vikingen, which has a monument to make an imaginary line visible and a photo opportunity at 66.32N 012.58.5E.
One more overnight stop in a snug anchorage on the island of Rodoy where we celebrated being in the Arctic with smoked salmon and Norwegian beer, then on for another 50NM sail to Bodo.The islands and mainland are beautifully remote and sparsly inhabited and I saw our first puffins. The weather deteriorated as we crossed Saltfjord, nothing dramatic, just dying wind and increasing cloud and mizzle soit felt quite Cornish as we entered Bodo.
Bodo is the largest city in Norland county (50,000) with a huge natural harbour and large marina, fishing fleet, ferries to all places north and ships galore. It was bombed in WW2 so it is mostly architecturally uninteresting, but they are making amends and have recently built a fabulous new library and concert hall near the water front. The architect was British, most surprising since Norwegian architecture is so beautifully attuned to the landscape; if I had been born Norwegian I feel sure I would have chosen architecture as my profession, then again, maybe marine biology....
Despite the marina being large there was no functional wifi so the library was the best place to hang out. There is also a great sale shop for outdoor clothing where I bought a traditional Norwegian fishermans jumper and Larry found some very cosy woollen slipper boots...onwards north!