Living the Dream

02 October 2009 | Apia, Samoa
29 September 2009 | Apia, Samoa
23 September 2009 | Apia, Samoa
15 September 2009 | Niuatoputapu, Tonga
10 September 2009 | Niuatoputapu, Tonga
29 August 2009 | Savusavu
25 August 2009 | Toba Basaga Bay - NE Viti Levu
20 August 2009 | Robinson Crusoe Island
12 August 2009 | Vuda Marina
10 August 2009 | Vuda Marina
28 July 2009 | Vuda Marina
27 July 2009 | Vuda Marina!
27 July 2009 | Back in Vuda Marina!
20 July 2009 | Navadra Island
18 July 2009 | Drawaqa Island
15 July 2009 | Suva
02 July 2009 | Sawa-I-Lau
27 June 2009 | Nanuya Lailai
20 June 2009 | Nanuya Lailai
16 June 2009 | Naviti Island

Issue #4 - Night 12

21 February 2021 | Isla San Geronimo - Cedros Island
Sally
We were exhausted after the crazy sail, so as soon as we set the anchor alarm and had some dinner, we hit the sheets. It has been really cold most of this trip, so it felt good to get out of the wind and get cozy. We normally would have watched a movie before bed, but our entire salon (living room) was full of all the stuff from the "garage," and we would have had to loosen one of the tie down straps on the TV in our cabin to get a dvd in the player. We decided it wasn't worth it. It continued to blow pretty hard most of the night, but the anchorage was great. The wind kept us off the swell. We both slept well!

The next morning we got up to blue skies and fairly calm winds - hooray! Since the anchor windless seemed like it was going to work fine again, and we couldn't move around most of the inside of the boat, we decided it was probably okay to put everything back into the forward cabin before we took off - so small feat, but accomplished! We also decided that it would be a good idea to put our dinghy and it's outboard motor onboard, instead of towing it like we had been. We were so lucky to have made it to Geronimo with it in tow, given the crazy winds and seas. Now to get the outboard up onto the big boat, we attach a block and tackle rig to our mizzen boom. Glen then climbs down the ladder at the stern (back), and gets into the dingy. The outboard has a harness on it, so he hooks the block and tackle up to it, and I pull use the line to pull it up. Whoever came up with the b&t rig was a genius! You hardly notice the weight you are lifting! There was almost a disaster when the harness on the outboard slipped over the top, but Glen was able to get it back on, and we were able to get the outboard up and safely fastened onboard (there is a board attached to the back rail that holds it). By this time, we were both a bit tired, and the day was looking so beautiful, that we decided to go ahead and keep towing the dinghy.

A dinghy out here cruising is essential. It is your "car" - it's how you get from the big boat at anchorage, to shore, or someone else's boat, or wherever. The Dorothy Marie has had 3 dinghies. The one that we left with on our "big trip" was one that had a roll up floor - it made it much easier to get onboard, but it didn't ride that well. The tubes were small, and we were constantly getting wet in it. Our second dinghy, we purchased from cruising friends from Elusive, when sadly they lost their boat on our crossing to Fiji. We loved that dinghy! It was an Apex, hard bottom, with really big tubes... no more getting wet, and having the hard bottom, it would get up on a plane right away. It definitely served us well for several years, but alas, just like your favorite old sweater, there comes a time when you know it's time is running out. It was looking a bit like a patch-work quilt! We had chatted about replacing it, but hadn't done anything about it, when BOOM...

It was love at first sight"! My first glimpse of "Little Dot" was while walking around a boaters garage sale in the parking lot of Harbor Island West Marina. She looked so pretty with her great big, non-patched hypalon tubes, and her hard, shiny aluminum bottom. She was even beautiful on the inside - a little storage locker where we could keep an anchor and life jackets, and there were two bench seats. I couldn't wait to get Glen to come look at her... I was smitten! Glen thought she was a real looker, as well, but because we hadn't ever heard of the brand, JP Marine, he said no. Somehow as we continued walking around looking at other boat stuff, we ended up going past this beautiful dinghy several times. Glen looked it over several times and we talked to the owner about the brand. He came down a little in price, and even offered to deliver it to us. How could we say no?!!! Little Dot became ours, and our old Apex was sold/given to a young man who was as thrilled to get it as we were to get the JP!

Getting from Geronimo to our next stop, Cedros Island, required an overnighter. It was too far to make it in one day. It was a beautiful day with much calmer winds and seas. I napped a bit during the day, knowing we would be taking turns "on watch" all through the night, but Glen couldn't ever get a nap in. Being "on watch" entails several things - keeping an eye out for any other boats that might be around, making sure the autopilot stays on course, keeping the sails happy, and looking to make sure Little Dot is still behind us. All was well most of the night, but around 3am, as Glen was running through his checklist of watch items, he found that Little Dot was no longer following along! He pulled up the line that she was attached to. The float we have on the line, and the closed shackle that attached to Little Dot's aluminum frame were all in place, but she wasn't! Although there was a little moonshine, there was no way to find her.

Cedros Island has a town with a Port Captain. It was too early in the morning when we first got anchored to report in, but we reached the Port Captain on the VHF radio around 8:30. After the formalities of letting him know that we had cleared into the country in Ensenada and have all the paperwork for him, we then explained that we couldn't bring it in to him because we had lost our dinghy during the night. He said he would send someone out to us, so we thought someone would come pick us up and take us to shore. The next thing we knew, however, a Mexican Navy boat came out of the little harbor and aimed right at us! There were several armed men aboard, but only two came aboard our boat. They were so nice! They took a report about our lost dinghy and said they would put the word out for all boats to keep an eye out for it. They left us in the anchorage which was getting pretty rough - 30k winds again and high seas. In just a little bit, though, the young Navy sailor called us on the VHF and told us he had talked to the Port Captain, and that we had been given permission to bring our boat inside the little harbor. That may not sound like a lot, but man, what a difference! It was nice and calm and we had a much better view of the town. Unfortunately, there was never an offer to take us ashore, but we were so grateful for the calm anchorage, it didn't matter. We slept really well that night, after being up most of the night before. I was really hoping that we would get a call that Little Dot had been found, but alas, she has not. We hope whoever finds her will love her as much as we did!

We have to admit we feel like a child who is getting "a spanking". We know we did wrong, and probably deserve to be punished, but boy, oh boy, does it hurt!!!

Issues #2 and 3!!!

20 February 2021 | Isla San Geronimo
Sally
We can't exactly pinpoint when we knew "Issue #2" happened, but we could tell it was coming! We are so spoiled to have 2 refrigerator systems. One is the more traditional boat system built into the counter. The lower portion is deep freeze, and the top part is refrigerator. This system runs off of 110 power. The other system is an upright frig/freezer that can run off 12 volt or 110. We always laughed on
our first trip that we probably held the record for how many countries our old Norcold frig had been worked on! Once back, we replaced it with what we thought was going to be a huge improvement... a Vitrifrigo! Well, it sure looks pretty with it's brushed stainless doors, but it has had problems from day one. We have probably spent twice it's original value in having it worked on! So, no surprise, when it
started getting warmer and warmer. Thankfully for the other system, we were able to cram most everything into it and turn off the Vitri, which was running 24/7. How then, you might ask, is this really an "Issue"? To get to the freezer section of the countertop system, you must first empty the frig part so you can pull up the boards that separate the two. Normally, we have a basket of sodas, a basket of beer,
and a misc. basket that are easy to lift out and open the freezer. With everything from the other frig crammed into the countertop frig, it takes a bit to empty it to get to the freezer, where we have all of our meat and chicken for dinners. Okay, it is an inconvenience, but we have had to do worse. Now here comes "Issue #3"! Did I mention that the countertop system runs off 110? That means we need to
run our generator every once in awhile to keep it nice and charged. So, you have probably guessed that "Issue #3" is with the generator. It is a wonderful 8kw Onan. It, too ,has been worked on in several countries - completely overhauled in Figi! It had been running so well after some linkage work done a few months ago. For some reason, however, the throttle govenor (another solenoid) decided to
"poop out" on us. The gen would run fine, we were just having to manually hold the throttle to keep it going! They say necessity is the mother of invention, and we worked really well as a team to come up with some creative "McGyver" solutions. The one that has been keeping the gen running perfectly, once we get it started and put it in place, is the two hook ends of a bungy cord with a paper clip in
between! Thank goodness... we can handle Issues #2 and 3. It's number 4 that is REALLY bad! That's for next time!

Continuing on from our FaceBook posts... Issue #1 and Night 11- Geronimo Island

20 February 2021 | Bahia San Quintin
Sally
Hey all! I had totally meant to journal our "Second Big Adventure" on this blog from the get-go, but a few things conspired against us. For the first few nights, at least, FB seemed to be an easier solution. Now that we are out where there is no way to connect to FB, however, it has driven me to figure out how to reconnect via sailmail and sailblogs. So much has happened before this to get us to where we
are now, however, I would love to go back and fill in the details. Hopefully you won't mind reading this a little out of order!

Since our last FB post, I know we have a lot of "splain'n" to do!!! So here goes ...

The morning we were to leave our wonderfully calm and beautiful anchorage in Bahia San Quintin, all was amazing. As always, Glen got the engine going and was readying the mainsail, as I went forward to weigh anchor. To do this, we have a windless that has foot pedals, or in our case, knee pedals, that allows the chain connected to the anchor to either be lowered or raised. It is a true workhorse, and
we are so grateful to have it!!!! It was a typical "moving on" morning. I had removed the snubber (a line that hooks to the chain in order to take the pressure off of the windless while the anchor is down), and was using the knee pedal to bring up the anchor. I call them knee pedals, because I use my knee, while bent over a round opening into the chain locker, to flake the chain (kind of like folding it back
and forth) to make sure it will all fit into the chain locker. A totally normal act... we've done it MANY, MANY times. This time, however, we were about half way up, when I realized I no longer had control of the up button. It had gone a bit crazy! I couldn't keep up with flaking the chain at the speed the windless was hauling it in, so I yelled to Glen to switch off the circuit breaker for the windless, which
thankfully he was able to do right away. That stopped that particular problem, but there it was... "Issue #1"!... Because I couldn't keep up with the chain, it had balled up in the hauspipe , a little metal "tube" that the chain goes up and down through. Thankfully this "snafoo" was easily fixed by Glen with a screwdriver (never to be seen again!!!) and a hammer. The major part of the issue however, was in order to
"fix" the windless knee pedal, we would have to get to the solenoid that controls it. No problem, right?!!! Well... the solenoid that just needed a "little tap" to fix was under the bed in our forward cabin, or what we normally refer to as "The Garage"!!! If you have ever been on our boat, you will feel our grief! We had to unload EVERYTHING... Glen's sax, piano, guitar, ukulele, melodica, and flute, our
karaoke machine, my 2 sewing machines (one for sails, one for quilting), plus all of the extra supplies we have brought with us... canvas and plastic window material to have a new dodger made, plus lots of paper supplies (because we all know I am a paper towel and toilet paper snob!!!). Unloading everything took more than 45 minutes, but sure enough, a little tap with the hammer and the solenoid issue
was "fixed". Because it was so calm, we had remained anchored the whole time... we thanked our lucky stars for that, so we could both work on the problem. We then finished raising anchor and headed out into very calm winds and seas. We had decided to leave everything from the forward cabin in the salon, just in case we may have another issue with the solenoid when we anchored at Geronimo
Island.

Well,our calm winds and seas didn't last for long!!! Our Grib file for wind was way off... instead of having calm winds the rest of the day, they increased, and increased, and increased to the point we were having to reduce sail until we had very little up. The winds were blowing more than 30 knots and the seas were a bit crazy by the time we made it to Geronimo Island. Even Glen admits that was one of
his "fiercest" sails! We made it though... all in tact, but very tired! We were thankful to be securely anchored at Geronimo Island. There isn't much there, but two men in a fishing panga came in and checked on us to make sure all was well.
Vessel Name: The Dorothy Marie
Vessel Make/Model: Endeavor 43
Hailing Port: San Diego
Crew: Glen Vienna and Sally Houston
The Dorothy Marie's Photos - Album 11 - Niuatoputapu and Samoa
Photos 1 to 120 of 120 | Living the Dream (Main)
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One of the waterfront fales you could stay at while visiting Savai
In the Falealupo Rainforest, there is a beautiful 225 year old banyan tree that has a narrow stairway built to climb up.  At the 9m mark, there is a rope bridge that connects from this tree to another 24m away.
Thank goodness the canopy walkway bridge was closed for repairs - I didn
The view from the top platform was beautiful!
Getting back down the stairs was a little scary - they are very steep and it started raining pretty hard!
It was common to see locals walking down the road carrying their loads on a bamboo pole!
Just another beautiful view of the Savai
School
"Hi there!  Aren
"My family and I just love eating papaya!  The visitors that come to see us can swim with us as well as feed us, but the water is pretty murky so Glen and Sally decided to enjoy us from the bank!"
"We
"We come to the surface to breathe and to get a better look at our strange visitors walking around on two legs!"
"Don
"Here
Glen walking up one of the lava flow trails.  Between 1905 and 1911, Mt. Matavanu on Savai
In Sale
This one is taken from the back side of the church - it was up to 2 meters thick as it flowed through the doors and windows.
One of the many colorful buses of Samoa!  Notice the woven baskets of coconuts in the back!
Glen taking a nice dip in the pool at the Afu Aau waterfall!  It was really pretty!
Getting a closer look!  Afu Aau Falls is down a very bumpy dirt and rock road.  As is the custom in Samoa, we first had to stop and pay the village people a few tala to enter their land.
Alofaaga blowholes!  There are several lava chasms in the area that blow seawater tens of meters into the air.  There was a man there trying to make money by throwing coconuts into the holes so visitors could see them get shot back out!
Our little rental car!  To be able to see much of Savai
A typical home on Savai
Yikes!  Many boats were thrown up on shore - luckily in Samoa, no cruising boats were damaged.  In American Samoa, however, several were destroyed and all of the 15 in the Pagopago anchorage were damaged.
These photos were taken by Nick and Tory who were crewing on Kalalau.
It was a nice new SUV!
The devastation has been amazing - these poor people.
The buses in Samoa are all painted with bright colors and fun designs.  They are also almost always crowded!
Part of the vegetable market in Apia.  The Samoans LOVE their taro!
A beautiful banyan tree along our walk from the marina to the main part of town!
Glen had a great time playing with Afa, a wonderful singer and guitar player.  He ended up playing at the Wildfire Restaurant several times and he and Afa had an incredible chemistry.
Glen with Colin, the owner of the Wildfire, and Afa.  Colin was very generous with the beer and wine while Glen played and gave us a couple of bottles to take with us!
Our new friend Tammy and her cute cousin, Jordan.  We had fun with Tammy and she was a big help with local information.
This shows how many of the homes in Samoa are very open.  There is usually just this one big room which holds everything from refrigerators and TVs to sleeping mats or beds.  They do not lock and only have coconut frond mats to cover the windows in case of heavy rain.  When asked about theft, we are told there isn
Robert Louis Stevenson
This is where the Stevenson family did most of their bathing and laundry!
The Stevenson tomb is at the top of a steep hill overlooking Apia.
The view of Apia harbor from up top of Mt. Vaea - by the Stevenson tomb.
Apia Harbor looking from the city side out.  The marina is in the little corner by the main wharf!
Glen swimming in the fresh water pool at Fatumea Caves.  The pool leads into a cave and then you swim underwater through a tunnel into a second cave.  Glen was the only one from our group to do it!
Fagaloa Bay on the northeast side of the island.  There were reports that the waves hit here as well.
This ivy covered palm tree reminded me of something out of Fantasia!  The Disney illustrators must be well traveled! :)
Glen and his shipmate from the USS Hamner, George Hill!
This is the Sea Breeze Resort.  The water in its lagoon was crystal clear.  Unfortunately, this was one of the areas hit the hardest and we have been told there is nothing left.
The white blob on top of this little island is a tomb for the chiefs of this part of Samoa.  It is right by the Sea Breeze resort and we are happy to hear it was not harmed.
A lovely beach along the southeast part of the island of
Gorgeous!
Sopo
Sopo
Glen has gotten really good at playing native rhythms on their dug out drums.  He has a smaller version he is bringing home as a souvenir from Tahiti!
Giant bamboo!
We found it very interesting how thick the walls of the bamboo are - had always thought it was fairly thin.
These are old outrigger canoes that had been carved and painted - they were beautiful!
Although this house isn
Togitogogiga Water Fall.  Not as dramatic, but still pretty!  It is in a recreational reserve.
Looking down from the top!
Boys will be boys!  :)  The other man is Ernie from Lauren Grace.
While the city of Apia seems very modern in S. Pacific terms, many of the outlaying areas are still somewhat primitive.

***We doubt this house is still there - it was right near the beach on the south side of the island.
Outside of Apia, most people live in family oriented villages, called nu
Sadly, this village is probably no longer there - at least not in the same way we saw it.
A couple of work boats!
The Papapapai-tai water fall isn
The Baha
This shows where the eight Baha
The Fiafia show at the Aggie Grey hotel started with the traditional sounding of the conch.
The women were beautiful and very subdued in their dancing.  Many of their moves looked "geisha" inspired.
OOh, la, la! The men in the show were a lot more lively with their dancing.  It
This is Aggie Grey, Jr.!  She is the granddaughter of the original and very much a part of running the hotel.  She came up and danced the last "act" of the show.
Aggie Grey
The grounds of Aggie Grey
The Catholic Cathedral is a major landmark along the Apia waterfront.
We arrived in Samoa just a couple of weeks after they switched which lane they drive in - they used to import most of their cars from the US, so drove on the right side, now they get most from NZ, so are driving on the left!  The police were out constantly directing traffic and restaurants and bars had to quit selling liquor at 10 instead of 12 PM!
Our first view of Apia from just outside the harbor.  We were surprised to see how big and modern it looked!
Uh, oh!  This can
The village of Falehau is pictured behind the wharf area.  The people there are very friendly and we were so lucky to be there during one of their lady
The wharf at low tide.  We found this was the perfect time to try to go ashore without slipping and sliding on the mossy concrete!  Doesn
The wharf from the view of the island.  During the day, almost every dinghy was tied up there - at one point up to 11 or 12 boats were in the anchorage, but normally there are just 4 or 5.
I wonder if Penny would want a little porker as a brother or sister?!!! They sure are cute when they are little, but the mamas can be intimidating as you walk by.
A patchwork house!  Thank goodness for corrigated steel, otherwise there wouldn
A beautiful cowrie shell in its natural habitat!  The long, "turd" looking things are sea cucumbers - the locals eat them raw, but mostly they collect and dry them to sell to the Chinese.
The women of Falehau put on a fund raising night to make money to buy a solar lighting system for their village.  The New Zealand govt. is putting up half the money, but the village has to come up with the rest.  They did a great demonstration of how they harvest pandanus leaves,  process them until they are dry, and then weave them into beautiful mats.
*** Unfortunately, this is one of the villages hit very hard by the tsunami.  We can only hope for the best.
This looks like a big mess, but this lady had it all under control and was weaving her heart out!
A closer look at the before and after!  I was so amazed at all the work that went into these mats.
This was the lady that was wearing the traditional mat at the school celebration.  She is one of the best weavers on the island!
I fell so in love with this little guy!  He wasn
His brothers and sisters were pretty cute, too!

***Again, we are hoping for the best.
The ladies of the village are not only talented weavers, they are also beautiful dancers. (Note by little guy is right in there with them!)
The young men did several dances throughout the night - many were almost like martial art katas, with precise moves and grunts.  (Not the one pictured, though!)
The young ladies of the village also danced beautifully.  There
To get to the Palm Tree Island Resort on Hunganga Island, we had to cross a reef.  This was very low tide, so we cold walk across - water in the middle was up to our knees.
This is Birgetta, Ian, and Laura doing the welcoming song from "Cabaret."  Ian and Birgitta are from S/V Gannet and Laura owns the resort.  It was a wonderful party!
Glen played with Leekie, the best Ukeleli player on the island!  Several others joined in on pots and pans and wooden sticks!  It was amazing!
Glen and Leekie had a lot of fun playing together and became good "buds!"
This is Leekie and his wife Piah.  Piah is the nurse practitioner on the island and was the health official that came to check in our boat.  She was so happy to get a print of this picture.

*** Unfortunately, the hospital, or health clinic, run by Piah was pretty much destroyed.  Both Piah and Leekie are okay - thank goodness!
Getting to "cut a rug!"  The party Laura hosted at her place was a blast - complete with people hanging from the rafters (no, not us!).  In fact, the Palm Tree Island Resort
Another Tongan ferry sinking!  This was after the boat was mostly bailed out and almost ready to go again!  Not a good idea putting 20+ people on board!
Why are all these people wet, you ask?  Good question!  The answer... they were all silly enough to crowd onto a tiny little boat to try to cross a reef!
This is Tuleme, the ferry captain!  He pulls the little boat back and forth across the reef several times a day at mid and high tides.  Bless his heart - he
The bank in Hihifo that didn
After the program at the school, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit with both parents and students.  Although we took tons of "by request" pictures (which we later printed and took into the village), I liked this one because it shows one of the moms with her traditional mat skirt.  We didn
What a bunch of cuties!  The girls side of the class!
Okay, so the boys side is equally cute!  We were so happy to have been invited to this "end of term" celebration at the primary school in the local village of Falehau.

***Very sadly, this is one of the villages that got hit pretty hard.  The school wasn
Yep, it
Hold still mama, we
We found it interesting that the vehicles driven by some of the islanders were far better than their houses!
The poles are leaning on the roof of the house to hold it down during high winds!

***We
This house is much more modern and well-built, but has the roof chained down for the high winds!

***We think this one would have survived - it was set back further from the water.
It
Dinnertime for the porkers, too!  They love coconuts.
So much depends on the old wooden canoe!  You can see the fishing net that gets used daily.
Looking out at the anchorage on Niuatoputapu.
Every child we passed on the road wanted their picture taken so they could see it on the screen.
Another couple of cuties we passed on the road.  This was the cutest puppy we had seen in a long, long time!
The local rugby/soccer field.  They used really tall trees to mark the goal.  The field is shared by tons of pigs!
A beautiful view while walking to Hihifo.
The extinct volcano makes the island of Tafahi.
The "I-5" of Niuatoputapu!  A two mile walk down this road takes you from the wharf to Hihifo, the capitol village.
The NZ military dynamited this little pass through the reef to make it possible for the fishermen from Vaipoa, the middle village, to get their boats out from their own village.
We love the way the Tongans adorn their loved ones graves - this quilt was beautiful!
Pigs on the beach!!!
 
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