9-20-09 I've tried sending this several times, but haven't had any luck. Am trying again as we are on our crossing from Tonga to Samoa with a reduced sized picture - will cross our fingers! We never mean to let it go so long - don't mean to worry anyone, just sometimes we can't get large amounts of data out...sorry! :) We saw humpback whales as soon as we left the anchorage - always a treat!

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It's hard to believe we have already been here on this little island for over a week! Where does the time go?

The wind has finally calmed a little so its easier to get around and from the boat to shore. Although the anchorage is fairly calm for the big boat, it had been pretty swelly for the dinghy - we were getting pretty wet any time we tried to go ashore. It didn't stop us, just made us wet and salty! There is a concrete wharf by the anchorage - that's where we take the dinghy to tie up. Depending on the tide, the whole getting out of, or back into, the dinghy can be pretty exciting. During high tide, the sloped concrete gets wet and extremely slippery. We've learned to try to go at a low enough tide that the concrete has had a chance to dry - much less challenging! Our first trek ashore was to walk to the village of Hihifo - the capital village of the Niua Group. There are three villages on the island of Niuatoputapu. The one closest to the anchorage is called Falehau, and is the smallest. About a mile down a dirt road that skirts the shore is the middle village of Vaipoa, then another mile down the road is Hihifo. The customs officials, the only bank on the island, and the biggest fale koloa (bush shop) is in Hihifo. Our two mile walk felt wonderful after not being off the boat for several days. We found the bank, but were told they didn't have enough money to change for us (and no ATM because that would mean they would need electricity!), so they sent us to a little store - not an obvious store, but given the description of a white house with blue trim, we found it! Instead of having a sign that said store, it said "Kindergarten!" Truly a building of all sorts! Anyhow, the woman there was very nice and changed our US dollars for Tongan pa'annga so we could pay our fees. The island gets all its supplies by boat - a ferry that usually comes once a month, but because of the tragic sinking of one of the ferries (over 100 people lost) a few months ago, no supplies have been brought in for over three months. Instead of visitors being able to buy stuff at the store, the locals are all asking the yachties what they might have to spare. We shared what we could and were given some pawpaw, mangoes, and a huge chunk of freshly caught tuna for four kilos of flour. We've also been given a list for when we get to Samoa - in case we find a boat heading this way. Can't imagine what it must be like having no idea when you might get your next supplies. And fuel?!!! There are a few generators for electricity, cars, and boats on the island, but the fuel also comes on the non-existent ferry, so there is precious little of that as well. Unfortunately, that has led to the cyphoning of fuel tanks from dinghies - not a good thing! The quality of the fuel that some lucky individuals had, however, was so deplorable, its no wonder very few motors on the island work.

The Tongans here all seem very happy, however, and we were invited to several of their activities. It was the end of term last Friday and the elementary school in Falehau celebrated with a big cultural dance program. I hope I am able to send the picture with this entry - the children were wonderful. As they danced, the parents (mostly the mothers!) yelled out and laughed and hooted for their children. It was very interesting because if parents did the same thing at one of our programs at home, we would think it quite rude! There was lots of laughing by the audience, but the children just kept smiling and dancing. During one of the dances, the girls covered their arms with coconut oil so that while they danced, money could be stuck to them. It looked sort of like a money dance at a wedding. It was a way to "fund raise" for the school. After the program, it was fun to meet the children and their boisterous parents - all wanted their pictures taken so they could see them on the camera's screen. We gave the school a few dozen pencils and printed quite a few pictures and took them back to the village. They were thrilled to get them.

That same Friday night, we were invited to a party hosted by a lady named Laura (the goodwill ambassador who came at check in time) who owns the only "resort" on the island. She sent a van and a truck to collect the yachties at the wharf (to save us the 2 mile walk back to Hihifo), but when they let us out on a stretch of beach and pointed across a reef to another part of the island, we realized we still had quite a walk ahead of us. Luckily it was low tide, so we only had to wade up to our knees to get across. The party was a hoot! It was pot luck and BYOB and was a great combination of locals and yachties. After the meal, Laura and a couple from a yacht named Gannet put on a wonderful mini version of Cabaret including the songs "Welcome", "Don't Tell Mama," and "Two for One." They did a fabulous job and it put everyone into the dancing mode. We danced and danced and danced! Glen played sax with the islands best yukeleli (sp?) player and several others joined in on pots and pans, spoons, bamboo sticks, etc... We had way too much fun and were saddened when the call was made that it was time to leave. It was now high tide and there was no walking across the reef, so Laura has a small boat she uses as a ferry. This ferry doesn't have a motor, however, it has a lovely Tongan man that pulls it across the reef. To save him from making more than one trip, it was suggested we all try to crowd on to the boat for one trip across - big mistake!!! Glen and I, with his sax, were amongst the last few to get on, which meant we were some of the first to jump overboard as the boat started sinking! We were only in water thigh high, but with all the "partying" everyone had done, it seemed like a major event! The boat was bailed, a lot less people got back on and Tuleme (the ferry puller) started across once again. Somehow Glen and I, along with 3 others, ended up in a little dinghy with another man pulling us across. The men had to swim the boat across in the deepest part. The truck and van were to meet us on the other side, but when our little boat arrived, there was no sign of either. We started walking down a road thinking we were heading to the main dirt road, but it soon became obvious we had no idea where we were going! It was pitch black - no lights anywhere! We finally went to a house and tried to get some directions, but the lady didn't speak English. She took us to another home and they headed us in the right direction. Right as we made the main road, we saw headlights and were saved the two mile walk! Other than Glen's sax case getting soaked (he gave the sax a good shower when we made it back to the boat), there were no injuries and looking back at it, everyone just cracks up. It may be in bad taste, but everyone involved have been saying we are survivors of another Tongan ferry sinking!

A few nights later, we were invited to a fund raiser for the lady's group in Falehau. The women are the main money makers in the family - the men fish and farm, but really have no way to earn cash. The women weave mats to sell - most being sent to bigger cities like Nuku'alofa. For about $10 US, we were treated to a wonderful dinner of local dishes - some roasted pig, lots of fish, taro, and other things we have no idea about (and probably don't want to know!). There was lots of native dancing, including more with the coconut oil, then the ladies put on a demonstration of how they make their mats. It was really interesting and we are amazed at how much work goes into them. They start by pulling leaves off of a panderas plant, cut them, boil them, soak them in the sea for many days, then dry them for weaving. Next time we get internet, I'll put photos in the gallery - amazing! We didn't buy a mat (they were all too large and expensive), but I did buy a cute woven headband.

Another day, we went for a hike up the ridge overlooking the island. I should say we tried to go up the ridge! Several of us hired a guide to take us through the jungle - not even what we would call a trail, but he went so fast and the incline was so steep, I couldn't keep up for the last bit. Yikes! Pretty embarrassing! Glen walked me back down the way we thought we had come up, but we got a bit lost and wandered for quite a while within the over growth. We finally came out in someone's "plantation" (what they call a big garden!) and eventually found the main road. After hearing from the rest of the group what they went through on the last bit up and then the steep slide back down, we were very happy we turned when we did! Laura, the English resort lady, invited us for Sunday brunch (we furnished the fish - a wahoo Glen had caught on the way here) and again had the experience of crossing the reef - walking at low tide, then being ferried across at high. There were a lot fewer of us this time and we made it without incident!

We've had a good time getting to know some of the yachties in the anchorage, but no one is heading our way, so we are saying goodbye yet again. We'll be leaving in a couple of days for Samoa - the winds are supposed to finally turn to a favorable direction for us. It should take us about 2 1/2 days to get there once we leave. During this crossing, we will cross the date line and be back on the same day of the week as everyone at home, and are now only four hours behind instead of five! Already feels like we're closer to home!

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The little island of Niuatoputapu (almost as much fun as saying Topolobampo!) is in the northern most island group of Tonga. It's name means "The Sacred Coconut." Last year, we visited the three southern Tongan groups, but the Niuas are quite a bit north from the rest of Tonga (half way between Vava'u and Samoa) and you might say somewhat off the beaten path. There are three islands in the Niua group - the biggest one, Niuatoputapu has a population of 1,400 living in 3 main villages. It has an area of 18 square kilometers. We are anchored just off its northern edge. There is a lovely barrier reef that surrounds most of the island. The entry through the reef into the lagoon is a bit intimidating - a VERY narrow entrance flanked with crashing breakers opens up to a little bit wider route that doglegs through several shallow areas (our draft is 5.5' and there were spots that were only showing 11'!). The little island in the foreground of the picture is actually a motu on the reef and is called Hunganga - very pretty! Another of the islands is Tafahi (pictured) - uninhabited, although we hear there is some farming on it. It is only 9km from the anchorage - thankfully it is an extinct volcano. The other island is called Niuafo'ou and resembles a floating doughnut in the sea. It is still an active volcano, although there hasn't been any major activity since 1946. It's population is only 745. Unfortunately, there are no anchorages there, so we won't be stopping!

It was a bit sad to leave Fiji - the people are so warm and wonderful. While in Savusavu, we met a man named Semi who came to the boat looking for work. We're broke, so at first we told him no, but he came back day after day and finally wore us down! Actually, we were so impressed with how hard he was looking for work, that we decided he needed a break. He completely scrubbed (even got the rusty spots off!) and waxed the entire hull. Our old girl hasn't been so shiny in quite some time! Semi worked hard for three days and it was fascinating getting to know him and hear his story. He is 35 and has 5 children - yikes!!! In the past he has worked as a carpenter, but the economy is awful here too, so there isn't much construction. He and his children walk 2 miles each morning to get to the bus that will take them into the actual town of Savusavu. It costs him $12. per week for his children to take this bus to get to school. He says he will not move his family into the city because he wants his children to grow up with good values and learn how to grow their own food. Sounds kind of corny as I'm writing about it, but seeing the sincerity on his face and how hard he works made us fall in love with him. He is also a wonderful keyboard player, so after work time, Glen got out the keyboard for him to play. He was almost in tears to be given the chance to play and when Glen started playing sax with him, it was magical! He brought one of his sons, a darling 5 year old named Rico, with him on his last day. He was very shy but so wanted to help his dad with the cleaning. I videoed the last music session they did and both Rico and Semi loved watching themselves on the TV. Semi made us promise we would send him a copy - we're embarrassed to admit we still don't know how to copy from our digital tapes! We'd also like to send him a keyboard some day and will be checking out the used stores in Samoa. As we were leaving, we gave his children a scholarship for their next term in school. It only cost us $90. US and will allow his kids to attend the public school in Savusavu for the next 3 months - something he wasn't sure he would be able to afford.

Our last day in Savusavu, we hired a taxi to take us sight seeing. We ended up going right by the Namale Resort where Tammy had said her old friend worked, so stopped by to say hi. Oh my gosh!!! If you ever want to escape to "Paradise" and can afford the luxury of an upscale resort, we'd highly recommend Namale! Hudson was a doll and gave us a tour of the entire resort. It is owned by the motivational speaker Tony Robins (who bought it when he was only 23!!!) and it is absolutely gorgeous. I put a couple pictures in the gallery, but check out their website for more. Millionaire Magazine wrote about them and said that "The Garden of Eden does still exist - it's called Namale!" Anyhow, it was the highlight of our Savusavu sight seeing tour - thanks Tammy!!! We again had to say goodbye to more cruising friends (Morning Star), but this time did it over goat curry at the Waitui Marina! Not something I'd want everyday, but pretty tasty for that one time. We checked out and left Savusavu the next morning (Thursday for us).

The first day of the crossing wasn't too bad and we became illegal aliens again by anchoring at Vuna Point on the island of Taveuni (once checked out, you're not supposed to stop). We didn't go ashore, but the island looked beautiful and was covered with coconut trees. Friday morning we hauled Little Dot on board, pulled anchor and headed out. The weather gribs didn't look too bad, but once out there, the winds quickly picked up to 30 - 35kts. I'm not going to go into it, but let me just say - it wasn't pleasant and we were soooo thankful to make it here and drop anchor Monday afternoon. The check in procedure here is to pick up 5 people in your dinghy and bring them back to the boat. There was a quarantine guy, a health official, customs, immigration, and then a sort of "goodwill ambassador." The boat was a total mess after the crossing, but their inspection wasn't real rigorous, so no worries. We were both exhausted and it felt like heaven for both of us to sleep in our real bed at the same time. Tuesday was clean up day - putting stuff that had fallen or flown during the crossing away and cleaning salt off of everything. We were still very tired and now sore, so didn't even go ashore to explore. The winds have continued to howl and even though the anchorage is somewhat protected, it is very choppy. Going ashore means a pretty wet and wild dinghy ride. Wednesday morning we made it in, got tied up to the concrete wharf, ice skated across its slippery top, then walked two miles to the village of Hihifo to exchange money and pay our check-in fees. We had forgotten all about the Tongan pigs, but were quickly reminded as we saw so many of them on the dirt road and on the beach. There are hundreds of them and they are free to wander about. I took way too many piglet pictures again, but they are just so darn cute! If you look carefully at the picture, you will see some of them snuffling their way along the tide pools (it was low tide).

I'll stop at this point and try to get this sent. Sorry for taking so long to get this out - between the rough crossing, cleaning, and exploring, its been hard to sit down and write. We've already had lots of fun experiences in Niuatoputapu, though, so will try to get another entry in soon.

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Literally! We're up the Nakama Creek in Savusavu on a mooring ball right in front of a historic building called the Copra Shed. Now, we've anchored in bays, coves, seas, inlets, and even a river before, but we do believe this is our first creek! It's lovely, though, and we're very happy to be in calm water again.

The winds didn't quite cooperate with our wishes for a smooth trip north to Vanua Levu. In fact, they started blowing even harder as we tried to beat our way "uphill." After leaving the anchorage in our last entry (so pretty and so calm!), we headed straight into 30-35 knot winds and were getting "spanked" by the seas. After about five hours of this fun, we diverted to a closer island and dropped the hook for the afternoon right in front of a quaint little village. We had gone ashore at the last anchorage even though we weren't supposed to (Shhh! Don't tell the Customs Officials!) because it was completely deserted and the beach was just calling us to come and explore. It was wonderful to stretch our legs and Glen, armed with his trusty machete, had a great time foraging for bananas, pawpaw, and coconuts. We really would have loved go ashore and visit the village at this new anchorage as well, but we were afraid to press our luck and we were pretty pooped from the morning's ride, so a rummy tile and cribbage match became the afternoon's entertainment instead. The next morning we were up early (well at least for us!) and hit the road once again. The winds hadn't let up at all, darn it! The reefs in the area are beautiful, but form a major obstacle course that probably double the mileage from point A to B. It was nonstop being on alert to make sure we were threading through them. At one point, we had just squeezed through a tiny pass in the reef to have the winds kick up and sweep us around and push us straight toward one, but Glen was able to get us turned back in time to miss it - made for a little adrenalin rush, though! :0

It was another tiring morning and afternoon, but we finally made it to the southern "Save a Tack Pass" in the Mamena Reef. The pass was about 100 yards wide with waves crashing on either side. Two other boats were coming out from the pass as we were ready to enter, so we held off to let them through first. It was interesting to see two boats here because we hadn't seen another boat in the last 4 days! Now, picture trying to keep the boat heading straight down the 50 yard line from one sideline to the other all the while being buffeted by the wind and pushed against by the current exiting the pass. Once inside, the reef opened up and it was a beautiful ride past Mamena Island up to the northern "Save a Tack Pass." The northern passage was plenty wide and was easy to get through. From there, the reefs let up for the last 24 miles of the trip. The winds never did, however, and it was a rough, wet, afternoon. Our boat has such a high freeboard (sits high in the water), we rarely take waves or splash up and over the dodger, but it was a constant "rain" and Glen even took a big splash right in the face while he was sitting in one of the back patio chairs! He had caught a nice wahoo/ono the day before and was back checking the lines when he got his shower. Oops!

The winds were blocked as soon as we got close to the shoreline of Vanua Levu and we had a great view of some beautiful homes (much more prosperous looking area than most we've seen) as we headed into Savusavu Bay and found the entrance to Nakama Creek. Mooring balls dot the creek making anchoring a little difficult and it's only $10.FD per day ($5.US), so we picked one up and were so happy to finally be able to sit back and relax (no more hanging on or bracing!). We haven't had much of a chance to explore Savusavu yet - everything was pretty well buttoned up on Sunday, but we did have a very yummy Chinese food dinner ashore with friends from Linda and Morning Star. We officially checked in to customs this morning so we are now legal. Look out Savusavu! :) (Tammy, we've asked about Hudson at the marina, but no one knew him - give us some more info as to how we can find him!)

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