Living the Dream

21 February 2021 | Isla San Geronimo - Cedros Island
20 February 2021 | Isla San Geronimo
19 February 2021 | Bahia Asuncion
08 August 2013 | Marina Village
07 April 2013
25 December 2012 | Our Marina
25 November 2012 | San Clemente Island
03 September 2012 | Mission Bay
06 May 2012 | National City
24 December 2011 | Pier 32 Marina
24 November 2011 | Two Harbors, Catalina Island
23 October 2011 | Longshadow Winery - Temecula
05 September 2011 | Mission Bay
12 August 2011 | Hoag Hospital, Newport Beach
22 July 2011 | Two Harbors
09 July 2011 | Santa Cruz Island
04 July 2011 | Channel Islands Harbor
03 January 2011 | Pier 32 Marina
19 December 2010 | Pier 32 Marina

Issue #4 - Night 12

21 February 2021 | Isla San Geronimo - Cedros Island
Sally
We were exhausted after the crazy sail, so as soon as we set the anchor alarm and had some dinner, we hit the sheets. It has been really cold most of this trip, so it felt good to get out of the wind and get cozy. We normally would have watched a movie before bed, but our entire salon (living room) was full of all the stuff from the "garage," and we would have had to loosen one of the tie down straps on the TV in our cabin to get a dvd in the player. We decided it wasn't worth it. It continued to blow pretty hard most of the night, but the anchorage was great. The wind kept us off the swell. We both slept well!

The next morning we got up to blue skies and fairly calm winds - hooray! Since the anchor windless seemed like it was going to work fine again, and we couldn't move around most of the inside of the boat, we decided it was probably okay to put everything back into the forward cabin before we took off - so small feat, but accomplished! We also decided that it would be a good idea to put our dinghy and it's outboard motor onboard, instead of towing it like we had been. We were so lucky to have made it to Geronimo with it in tow, given the crazy winds and seas. Now to get the outboard up onto the big boat, we attach a block and tackle rig to our mizzen boom. Glen then climbs down the ladder at the stern (back), and gets into the dingy. The outboard has a harness on it, so he hooks the block and tackle up to it, and I pull use the line to pull it up. Whoever came up with the b&t rig was a genius! You hardly notice the weight you are lifting! There was almost a disaster when the harness on the outboard slipped over the top, but Glen was able to get it back on, and we were able to get the outboard up and safely fastened onboard (there is a board attached to the back rail that holds it). By this time, we were both a bit tired, and the day was looking so beautiful, that we decided to go ahead and keep towing the dinghy.

A dinghy out here cruising is essential. It is your "car" - it's how you get from the big boat at anchorage, to shore, or someone else's boat, or wherever. The Dorothy Marie has had 3 dinghies. The one that we left with on our "big trip" was one that had a roll up floor - it made it much easier to get onboard, but it didn't ride that well. The tubes were small, and we were constantly getting wet in it. Our second dinghy, we purchased from cruising friends from Elusive, when sadly they lost their boat on our crossing to Fiji. We loved that dinghy! It was an Apex, hard bottom, with really big tubes... no more getting wet, and having the hard bottom, it would get up on a plane right away. It definitely served us well for several years, but alas, just like your favorite old sweater, there comes a time when you know it's time is running out. It was looking a bit like a patch-work quilt! We had chatted about replacing it, but hadn't done anything about it, when BOOM...

It was love at first sight"! My first glimpse of "Little Dot" was while walking around a boaters garage sale in the parking lot of Harbor Island West Marina. She looked so pretty with her great big, non-patched hypalon tubes, and her hard, shiny aluminum bottom. She was even beautiful on the inside - a little storage locker where we could keep an anchor and life jackets, and there were two bench seats. I couldn't wait to get Glen to come look at her... I was smitten! Glen thought she was a real looker, as well, but because we hadn't ever heard of the brand, JP Marine, he said no. Somehow as we continued walking around looking at other boat stuff, we ended up going past this beautiful dinghy several times. Glen looked it over several times and we talked to the owner about the brand. He came down a little in price, and even offered to deliver it to us. How could we say no?!!! Little Dot became ours, and our old Apex was sold/given to a young man who was as thrilled to get it as we were to get the JP!

Getting from Geronimo to our next stop, Cedros Island, required an overnighter. It was too far to make it in one day. It was a beautiful day with much calmer winds and seas. I napped a bit during the day, knowing we would be taking turns "on watch" all through the night, but Glen couldn't ever get a nap in. Being "on watch" entails several things - keeping an eye out for any other boats that might be around, making sure the autopilot stays on course, keeping the sails happy, and looking to make sure Little Dot is still behind us. All was well most of the night, but around 3am, as Glen was running through his checklist of watch items, he found that Little Dot was no longer following along! He pulled up the line that she was attached to. The float we have on the line, and the closed shackle that attached to Little Dot's aluminum frame were all in place, but she wasn't! Although there was a little moonshine, there was no way to find her.

Cedros Island has a town with a Port Captain. It was too early in the morning when we first got anchored to report in, but we reached the Port Captain on the VHF radio around 8:30. After the formalities of letting him know that we had cleared into the country in Ensenada and have all the paperwork for him, we then explained that we couldn't bring it in to him because we had lost our dinghy during the night. He said he would send someone out to us, so we thought someone would come pick us up and take us to shore. The next thing we knew, however, a Mexican Navy boat came out of the little harbor and aimed right at us! There were several armed men aboard, but only two came aboard our boat. They were so nice! They took a report about our lost dinghy and said they would put the word out for all boats to keep an eye out for it. They left us in the anchorage which was getting pretty rough - 30k winds again and high seas. In just a little bit, though, the young Navy sailor called us on the VHF and told us he had talked to the Port Captain, and that we had been given permission to bring our boat inside the little harbor. That may not sound like a lot, but man, what a difference! It was nice and calm and we had a much better view of the town. Unfortunately, there was never an offer to take us ashore, but we were so grateful for the calm anchorage, it didn't matter. We slept really well that night, after being up most of the night before. I was really hoping that we would get a call that Little Dot had been found, but alas, she has not. We hope whoever finds her will love her as much as we did!

We have to admit we feel like a child who is getting "a spanking". We know we did wrong, and probably deserve to be punished, but boy, oh boy, does it hurt!!!

Issues #2 and 3!!!

20 February 2021 | Isla San Geronimo
Sally
We can't exactly pinpoint when we knew "Issue #2" happened, but we could tell it was coming! We are so spoiled to have 2 refrigerator systems. One is the more traditional boat system built into the counter. The lower portion is deep freeze, and the top part is refrigerator. This system runs off of 110 power. The other system is an upright frig/freezer that can run off 12 volt or 110. We always laughed on
our first trip that we probably held the record for how many countries our old Norcold frig had been worked on! Once back, we replaced it with what we thought was going to be a huge improvement... a Vitrifrigo! Well, it sure looks pretty with it's brushed stainless doors, but it has had problems from day one. We have probably spent twice it's original value in having it worked on! So, no surprise, when it
started getting warmer and warmer. Thankfully for the other system, we were able to cram most everything into it and turn off the Vitri, which was running 24/7. How then, you might ask, is this really an "Issue"? To get to the freezer section of the countertop system, you must first empty the frig part so you can pull up the boards that separate the two. Normally, we have a basket of sodas, a basket of beer,
and a misc. basket that are easy to lift out and open the freezer. With everything from the other frig crammed into the countertop frig, it takes a bit to empty it to get to the freezer, where we have all of our meat and chicken for dinners. Okay, it is an inconvenience, but we have had to do worse. Now here comes "Issue #3"! Did I mention that the countertop system runs off 110? That means we need to
run our generator every once in awhile to keep it nice and charged. So, you have probably guessed that "Issue #3" is with the generator. It is a wonderful 8kw Onan. It, too ,has been worked on in several countries - completely overhauled in Figi! It had been running so well after some linkage work done a few months ago. For some reason, however, the throttle govenor (another solenoid) decided to
"poop out" on us. The gen would run fine, we were just having to manually hold the throttle to keep it going! They say necessity is the mother of invention, and we worked really well as a team to come up with some creative "McGyver" solutions. The one that has been keeping the gen running perfectly, once we get it started and put it in place, is the two hook ends of a bungy cord with a paper clip in
between! Thank goodness... we can handle Issues #2 and 3. It's number 4 that is REALLY bad! That's for next time!

Continuing on from our FaceBook posts... Issue #1 and Night 11- Geronimo Island

20 February 2021 | Bahia San Quintin
Sally
Hey all! I had totally meant to journal our "Second Big Adventure" on this blog from the get-go, but a few things conspired against us. For the first few nights, at least, FB seemed to be an easier solution. Now that we are out where there is no way to connect to FB, however, it has driven me to figure out how to reconnect via sailmail and sailblogs. So much has happened before this to get us to where we
are now, however, I would love to go back and fill in the details. Hopefully you won't mind reading this a little out of order!

Since our last FB post, I know we have a lot of "splain'n" to do!!! So here goes ...

The morning we were to leave our wonderfully calm and beautiful anchorage in Bahia San Quintin, all was amazing. As always, Glen got the engine going and was readying the mainsail, as I went forward to weigh anchor. To do this, we have a windless that has foot pedals, or in our case, knee pedals, that allows the chain connected to the anchor to either be lowered or raised. It is a true workhorse, and
we are so grateful to have it!!!! It was a typical "moving on" morning. I had removed the snubber (a line that hooks to the chain in order to take the pressure off of the windless while the anchor is down), and was using the knee pedal to bring up the anchor. I call them knee pedals, because I use my knee, while bent over a round opening into the chain locker, to flake the chain (kind of like folding it back
and forth) to make sure it will all fit into the chain locker. A totally normal act... we've done it MANY, MANY times. This time, however, we were about half way up, when I realized I no longer had control of the up button. It had gone a bit crazy! I couldn't keep up with flaking the chain at the speed the windless was hauling it in, so I yelled to Glen to switch off the circuit breaker for the windless, which
thankfully he was able to do right away. That stopped that particular problem, but there it was... "Issue #1"!... Because I couldn't keep up with the chain, it had balled up in the hauspipe , a little metal "tube" that the chain goes up and down through. Thankfully this "snafoo" was easily fixed by Glen with a screwdriver (never to be seen again!!!) and a hammer. The major part of the issue however, was in order to
"fix" the windless knee pedal, we would have to get to the solenoid that controls it. No problem, right?!!! Well... the solenoid that just needed a "little tap" to fix was under the bed in our forward cabin, or what we normally refer to as "The Garage"!!! If you have ever been on our boat, you will feel our grief! We had to unload EVERYTHING... Glen's sax, piano, guitar, ukulele, melodica, and flute, our
karaoke machine, my 2 sewing machines (one for sails, one for quilting), plus all of the extra supplies we have brought with us... canvas and plastic window material to have a new dodger made, plus lots of paper supplies (because we all know I am a paper towel and toilet paper snob!!!). Unloading everything took more than 45 minutes, but sure enough, a little tap with the hammer and the solenoid issue
was "fixed". Because it was so calm, we had remained anchored the whole time... we thanked our lucky stars for that, so we could both work on the problem. We then finished raising anchor and headed out into very calm winds and seas. We had decided to leave everything from the forward cabin in the salon, just in case we may have another issue with the solenoid when we anchored at Geronimo
Island.

Well,our calm winds and seas didn't last for long!!! Our Grib file for wind was way off... instead of having calm winds the rest of the day, they increased, and increased, and increased to the point we were having to reduce sail until we had very little up. The winds were blowing more than 30 knots and the seas were a bit crazy by the time we made it to Geronimo Island. Even Glen admits that was one of
his "fiercest" sails! We made it though... all in tact, but very tired! We were thankful to be securely anchored at Geronimo Island. There isn't much there, but two men in a fishing panga came in and checked on us to make sure all was well.
Vessel Name: The Dorothy Marie
Vessel Make/Model: Endeavor 43
Hailing Port: San Diego
Crew: Glen Vienna and Sally Houston
The Dorothy Marie's Photos - Album 3 - Hiva Oa - Toau
Photos 1 to 120 of 120 | Living the Dream (Main)
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Dennis (Warm Rain) playing a very well-dressed limo driver!  We had all been invited over to Shilling for drinks, but we had already put our dinghy away so Tom offerred to come and get us.  When we asked if he would have proper limo driver attire, this is what he showed up in!!!
It
These were the pearls Valentine opened while we were with her.  The pearl Glen got for me is the second one from the top on the left hand side - the prettiest!!!
Trying to be "artsy fartsy" with my pearl!!
Gaston and Valentine with a very yummy yellow fin tuna!  :)
Tom (Warm Rain), Glen, and Dennis (Shilling) entertaining us with guitars before dinner!  Glen didn
Dinner with Gaston and Valentine - firthest end of table.  Their family owns the area where we stayed on Toau - a restaurant, bungalows, and pearl farm.
The sax man!!!  And yes, a lot of men wear flowers here too!  A very nice touch!!
The ground "came to life" just at sundown with hundreds of hermit crabs!  This was one of the bigger ones.
Starting to exit through Passe Garue - the Northern side of Fakarava.  Our first time tethering ourselves to the boat!!!
We have a mast, but where
The Dorothy Marie "hanging ten!!"  Kowabunga!

Taken by Shilling - exiting Fakarava through Passe Garue!
Using our dinghy wheels!  They worked perfectly to help us get ashore with all the coral.  We had to slalom through coral to get back and forth - not something you want to try at night!
There is some weird kind of stuff that grows on the trees here.  When we were kids we called the stuff up in the mountains like this "witch
The "Copra Boys!"  These guys were sitting along side of the road in Rotoava - the main village on Fakarava - getting coconut ready to go into one of the drying sheds (I had put a picture of one of the sheds earlier).
It wasn
Me in Janet
Glen in Dennis
We won
There were so many beautiful spots to pull up to and explore - and never run into anyone else!!!
We really loved this whole area.  Going ashore was fun and being in the water was fantastic!
Southern Fakarava
Want a private beach?  Take your pick!!!
How many hues of blue are there?   A bunch!!!
Southern Fakarava
Some bungalows just inside the southern pass of Fakarava - it would be fun to stay in one of these!
This was the sweet little lady that made us our hats!  She also does all the floral decorations for the church - very talented!
This is the boathouse owned by the "hat" lady!  She invited us (insisted!) we come for a visit and have coconut water.  She had them knocked down, husked, and holed before we could do anything to help!!  Yum!
This is the fisherman that made the necklace I
Just some more beautiful water that is crystal clear!
Dinner at the Mayor
When we visited the pearl farm on Kauehi, we kept seeing coconut trees with "balls" hanging all over them.  When we asked about it, we were told they hang their floats (very expensive) on the trees when they are not is use for two reasons - to keep them out of the way and in case of a cyclone, they wouldn
The Mayor of Kaeuhi!  Quite the entrapraneur - he owns the pearl farm, the store, the airport concession stand, and who knows what else!  He was very nice though!   He
This man
Many of the pearl farms contract Japanese women to do the seeding of the pearl.  They implant a little bead of "bioscience" material (?) and a little piece of "irritant" cut from another oyster.  The two things work together to make the oyster produce a pearl.
Once the pearls have been "seeded", they are hung back in the water for a short time to check for re-jection.  They get their own pocket in a special net for a few days!
The final product!  "The mayor" (couldn
After everyone had sone their "shopping,"  the mayor picked up a big handful of pearls and had us close our eyes and pick one out of his hand!
Pearls, pearls, pearls.....  oh my!!!!
Let
Snorkeling fun!   (Glen!)
It was hard to catch the fish with the camera - there is a couple second delay from when I push the button and the camera in my waterproof case actually takes the picture, but hopefully you can see some of the pretty ones we have been so enjoying while snorkeling.
The colored squiggles are the clams that we collected and ate!  They
Glen standing on the bottom of the ocean!!!
A huge coral head - they are so pretty, but we have to be careful not to let the anchor get wrapped around them!
Even the palm trees here seem prettier!
The dinghy dock on Kauehi - much "friendlier" than the one in Taiohae!  Look how lovely the water color is - the pale turquoise is shallow water where you can see to the bottom!
Glen and I in front of the church in Tearavero on Kauehi.  The service was wonderful - even though it was all in French!
Janet (from Shilling) and I wearing our "Mother
A coral reef within the lagoon.  A shack was built right on the reef!  It would no longer be allowed, but those that were exisiting when they changed the laws were "grandfathered" in!
Our first glimpse of the Tuamotus!  White coral sand, palm trees, and gorgeous water!
The right side of Passe Arikkitamiro going into Kauehi.
The Tuamotus are mostly atolls - lands formed by barrier reefs with gorgeous lagoons inside.  This is Passe Arikitamiro - the opening to get from the ocean into the lagoon.  This was taken after we got through the pass and were looking back out of it.
One of the beautiful sunsets along the way from the Marquesas to the Tuamotus.  It took us 7 1/12 days to make the crossing.
Goodbye to Marquesas!  We left a couple of days before full moon so we had lots of light throughout the evenings - it made our crossing so much more enjoyable.  This is the last bit of Ua Pou that we saw as we were leaving.  The rock to the right looked like a big seal!
Ua Pou is a diamond shaped island about 10 miles long by 7 miles wide.  It has countless soaring mountain spires and towers - the highest being Oave, a volcanic plug reaching 4,040 feet!
Sailing along the shoreline of Ua Pou was beautiful - this shows the airstrip for the island.  Commuter flights can be taken in from other islands.  All "big" flights go into Pape
A closer look at the airstrip - I
Very hard to tell, but this is where Glen went surfing in Baie d
The gendarmerie in Hakahau on Ua Pou (pronounced wapoo).   This village is the third most populated in all the Marquesas!
Our anchorage in Baie d
The island of Ua Pou has the prettiest "skyline" in all the Marquesas!  This was the last island we visited in the Marquesas.
We went to a park in Taiohae (Nuku Hiva)that had been the site of a carving exhibition.  Each carver who participated left behind one of his/her works of art.
The park overlooked our anchorage in Taiohae.  Most of the carvings in the Marquesas are very traditional - there is a lot of symbolism in each one.
One of our walks took us to a lovely church in Taiohae.  A lot of local craftmen put a lot of time into its construction.  Notre Dame des Iles Marqesas - a Roman Catholic cathedral
A beautiful rock carving on the church grounds.
There were beautiful carvings all around the church - a bit primitive looking, but very pretty.  
Taiohae, Nuku Hiva
The doors of the church were gorgeous!
A huge banyan tree in Taiohae - Nuku Hiva.  This was our walk down main street!  Taiohae is the administrative capital and the largest town in the Marquesas.  It lies in the open remains of a volcanic crater with the caldera walls surrounding the town.
The view from just outside "Daniel
This was taken from our boat looking out at the entrance to the anchorage.  You can see how protected we were tucked up inside.  Daniel
Getting in to the anchorage at Daniel
Our trail to the waterfall took us in between two huge cliffs.  It was stunning how beautiful and how tall they were!
Just another pretty few - the waterfall at Daniel
The waterfall didn
Look closely.... there is a 4 foot eel in the pond at the base of the waterfall.  We were going to swim, but quickly decided against it!
The pond at the base of the waterfall.  We wanted to swim but changed our minds when we saw the size of the eels swimming in it!  These our our friends from Shilling - Janet and Dennis.
In addition to eels, there were huge crawfish swimming in the pond.  Janet had brought some banana bread and both the crawdads and eels enjoyed it!
Our view from along the trail!
Glen along the path on the way to the waterfall in Daniel
Shoes off, shoes on... crossing the creak heading up to the waterfall!
Our path the waterfall crossed a stream three different times.  This was the first crossing - there were stacked rocks all along the trail so we could tell where to go!  (Not always obvious!!)
Drying copra (coconut) that will be used for oil.  These drying "sheds" are tucked into yards all over the Marquesas.  They have rolling covers that can be moved back when it is sunny, or closed when it is rainy.
While in "Daniel
Church bells being rung in Taipivi - Comptroller Bay, Nuku Hiva.
A beautiful woven house in Taipivai.
The playground of the school in Taipivai - Every playground should have a few chickens, goats, and cows - right?!!! Comptroller Bay, Nuku Hiva
Cooling off in a stream on the way back from a hike to an archeological site.  We tried to resist since we didn
Some beautiful plants along the road in Taipivi
Human sacrfice?  Not me!  I
We walked past a vanilla plantation, through the town of Taipivai, and up a very zig-zaggy path to get to some of the more cool ruins in the Marquesas!  This important archeological sight, Paeke, which has several large Tikis and a huge maeae (ceremonial platform made from huge basalt blocks which was used only by priests and chieftans for worship, burials, and sometimes human sacrifices.  (Can you tell I was papaphrasing from the guide book?!!)
Glen at the archeological site in Taipivai - it was a l-o-n-g walk up to it, but we
Mama Piggie with her little piggies 3!  The far right was the runt of the island and our personal favorite!  Anse Hakapoa - Nuku Hiva
And this little piggie wanted to go for a dinghy ride all the way home!!!!
A big white cross of crystalline rocks makes it easy to spot the entrance to the main town on Nuku Hiva - Baie de Taiohae.
The anchorage in Taiohae.
The dinghy dock at Taiohae.  Notice the rusty ladder that one has to climb up  - usually after crawling through at least a couple other dinghies!  On the bottom of the ladder was a very shark spike that was known as "The Dinghy Killer!"  Although we tried to be soooo careful, our dink was punctured and I had to stuff my finger in the hole to keep us from losing too much air until we could get back to the boat for a repair!  :(
Low tide at Taiohae Beach.  We were warned by the Gandarmerie not to swim in this bay because their had been several tiger sharks spotted recently!  We didn
A beautiful "native" sailboat.  While we were there, it was used to carry a casket from Taiohae to Daniel
Pyschology Rock!  Do you see Jesse Jackson or a French Lady?  They are both there!   Roca Fatutue in Baie Hanaiapa on Hiva Oa
A primitive carved stone in a yard in Hanaiapa - Nuku Hiva
Main street Hanaiapa!  Not a leaf is ever out of place - it was so beautiful with all of its flowers and lush vegatation.
Lots of orchids growing in one yard in Hanaiapa.  I was tempted, but didn
May be hard to see, but there was a beautiful rainbow shining down right in the middle of the village of Hanaiapa. (Hiva Oa)
This is literally where the chicken crossed the road!  :)
The school in Hanaiapa - not too big, but very well maintained!
The church steeple in Hanaiapa.  Most of the churches we have seen are open most of the time.  Anyone can go in whenever they like.  If you happen to walk by while they
Where the river flows out to the bay there is a nice fresh water pool that many of the locals enjoy.  There is a mom and her two kids enjoying a break right at the mouth.  We
Some local foliage (the leaves were bigger than us!)
A beautiful waterfall falling into the ocean right by our anchorage in Hanaiapa.
The waterfall turned into a bridal veil when the wind hit it just right!
(Hiva Oa)
Another shot of the waterfall!
A very pretty blow hole right by where we anchored.
Just to show how close the waterfall was to the entrance to the anchorage!
Jam session on The Dorothy Marie!  Anita (Kind of Blue) on the accordian, Dennis (Schilling) on guitar, and of course Glen on Sax!  (On Tahuata)
A wild horse on the hill overlooking the anchorage in Baie Hanamoenoa on Tahuata.
The beach at Tahuata - it was too rough to take the dinghy in, so we swam ashore.  There were several manta rays in the area as well, but we never got to swim with one.
Rafted with Orca III waiting for fuel.  Stores and services close at 11 for "lunch." They were supposed to re-open for the afternoon at 2:00, but it turned out to be more like 2:30!  Orca III bow anchored and backed in and tied a line to a tree on shore.  We then backed in and rafted next to them.  We had to go in the dinghy to get the fuel hose!
The anchorage at Baie Tahauku.  We had to wlk all the way around the anchorage and then up a steep hill (2 miles) to get to the town of Atuona!
No explanation neccessary!  I just loved this sign!  :)
The beach in Atuona.  You can
 
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