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Living the Dream
Los Frailes to Mazatlan
12/17/2009, N23 10 W106 25

We'd been hearing chatter since o' dark 30 from all the boaters who left going to La Paz. Guess it's still a bear trying to go north against the seas and the winds. There are only 3 boats left in the anchorage, including us, and we headed out before dawn. It's a beautifully warm morning and we have lots of sparkle in our wake (don't know what it is but it's pretty). Jim is trolling already as we make our overnight passage to Mazatlan (unless the winds /seas are nasty then Puerto Vallarta).

We finally have an excellent day of sailing, surfing up to 9 knots on the waves, 7/8 knots in general. Not even halfway there, Jim notices our jib halyard is severed. What the hell! So there goes our sailing day/night as we furl it up to a kite sized sail. Even so, it's still a nice day. We keep communicating with Passage II to let them know where we are (they're catching up fast but to the north of us since they are going to the marina harbor).

Lots of stars again tonight and not many boats. Jim saw a couple of shooting stars (I didn't). Then the motor started acting up. Now what? Jim checked the racor - yep full of crap so we changed out the filter, bled the system and we were up and running again in no time (really have to finish the second racor system so we can avoid mid-passage filter stuff).


Pulled into Mazatlan harbor and anchored in 30 ft (charts say 9-12 ft) near Club Nautico. Check in was super easy (mostly English thank God) and not many boats here, surprisingly. We lost Passage II after they pulled into Marina Mazatlan so we'll have to go up there to see them. We rowed ashore ($3 dinghy dock again) and walked/bused to the Mercado area. Our first visit to the open markets in Mexico, where they sell every kind of food/meat-things you would see at a butchering building, not food market. I don't think I'll be trying pig snout or chicken feet anytime soon, but you never know! If you think about it, I guess we (as in Americans) waste a lot of useable food but it geez, I still think you 'd have to make it and not tell me what it was! Yuck! Lots of flies and bees around everything. The vegetables and fruits are a lot better than I thought they would be and really cheap (like tomatoes 8 pesos/kilo)

We got tacos (7 pesos each) from one of the vendors on the street which I'm pretty sure was just beef (but don't tell me if it wasn't!) and walked around the church next door. There are a lot of people on the street and the sidewalks are so small that you end up walking in the street to get around. I like walking the streets of the neighborhoods better than these big markets, just too many people. We hopped a bus back to the boat (8 pesos or so per person ) and hung out for the rest of the day.

Los Frailes Day 6,7

Everyone in the anchorage is chatty on the radio this morning, following conversations up and down the channels and piping in with info. We finally were finally able to check our wind speed with someone else's and found out it was definitely off by about 5 knots or more. Everyone said doesn't it have an adjustment for calibration and when I said it's a 30 year old instrument everyone just laughed and said yep, probably easier to do the calculation than to mess with it!

A windsurfer started up off one of the boats in anchorage. What a sight! He had quite a good ride with the winds today and his girlfriend rowed ashore to help bring the equipment back.

Had our first encounter with food bugs! Gross! We were boiling some pasta for dinner and upon closer inspection, what I thought was spices from the sauce spoon was a lot of boiled up bugs! Ok overboard with that and start dinner again. Have to check our packaged food more carefully before we buy it.


The rays came by closer today to our boat. When they are swimming together, they look like a pod of shark. At least I can get pictures (well movies) of them, not like dolphin which I still don't have. Kind of a shock not to see dolphins in this bay with as much fish as we are seeing here.

We watched some kite surfers along the bay today and hikers going up the top of the rocks. Spent the day cleaning the boat some more today as the net confirms the winds should let up to 10-15 knots. As it looked like there was going to be a mass exodus tonight/tomorrow, I hailed everyone to say bye and it's been fun. Most of them piped back in with their byes as well. A very nice group of people.

I finally put up another fly trap (I'd put them in such a good place to get them easy that I had not been able to find them since Ensenada - bad trapper!) and it's like waiting for a pot of water to boil! Nothing so far!

Los Frailes Day 5

Worked on the battery banks a bit this morning before heading to shore to do some snorkeling. We walked a bit first up a wash area to a dry pond area, checking out plants and beach debris as we go. It's really quiet here and really warm on land.

Went back to the rocks and snorkeled for quite some time. Lots of fish to see here in really clear water. Lots of fish we recognized from snorkeling in Hawaii. After a bit of snorkeling we decided to walk down the beach along the bay and see if one of the buildings was a hotel or restaurant. Nope, just all houses but a nice walk for us since we've been boat bound for days.

Weather report is not promising....looks like we'll be stuck here (such a horrible thing) until Wednesday or Thursday because the winds are just not going to let up and we don't want to be spanked again on this overnighter to Mazatlan.

Los Frailes Day 2,3,4

Hope to go ashore today or swim again like we did in Cabo. We can only see a few buildings from the anchorage so hopefully there's something nearby to walk to. It's really windy today but beautiful and the fish seem to enjoy hanging out around our boat.

Watched as more boats came in and spied on the beachgoers.


Same ol' same ol' - windy day so no shore time for us (don't think we can row against the wind), but another pretty day to enjoy.


Pam and Dennis from PamDemonium stopped by to invite us to potluck on shore at 3:30. A lot of the boats here are the same ones we saw in Cabo and have been stuck here just like us because of the winds (20-25 knots). So I whipped a macaroni salad together and we rowed ashore (wind let up enough to do that) and we hung out for a few hours with everyone. Lots of Canadians eh! It was a nice turnout as it looks like every boat in the anchorage came ashore. We swapped food, stories and books. Except for three of us, most are trying to get to La Paz.

Rowed back to the boat after dark and stayed up to watch a bit of the meteor shower going on tonight.

Los Frailes Day 1
12/10/2009, N23 22 W109 25

We're taking another leisurely day here and Jim is spending his morning fixing up his reels and poles - he wants another fish bad! Park Rangers came by panga and told us that we were indeed in the park and no fishing (poor Jim) and gave us a brochure on the park (unfortunately all in Spanish). Not long after they left Jim catches sight of a big dorado circling our boat chasing the fish! What a sight! Is that karma or what?

We put up our hammock and read on the deck for awhile. I'm going through books like mad....should start on crafts. Yeah right. We watched more rays jumping out of the water. Jim said they have wings so they are trying to fly. Guess it's what they do here.

More boats are coming in, several that we saw while we were anchored in Cabo. We used our BBQ for the first time since Stan made our missing part - fabulous steak. Mmmmmm good! As Jim's cooking he's seeing glowing things in the dark and has me come up to see it. I can't see anything and think he's crazy. But then he gave me the head lamp he was using and it was like using 3D glasses and now I see things shining in the dark water. Turns out it was tons of fish eyes reflecting back the light! Creepy! Even creepier is when we switched from red light to white and their eye color changed too.

Cabo San Lucas to Los Frailes
12/09/2009, N23 22 W109 25

We have another nice sunrise as we pull out of Cabo San Lucas. Jim put the dorado lure on and we trolled out of Cabo. Not even out of sight of Cabo and we have a fish on! We can see a fin just swimming behind the boat so I dragged it in - a big (8lb) beautiful (blue and yellow) dorado! We kind of feel bad about catching a fish but I'm sure that will change once he's cooked up for tacos.

We pulled into Los Cabos Marina in San Jose del Cabo, fueled up and filled our water tanks, then gave the boat a quick rinse off. Unloaded garbage and hailed Passage II. They can't come over cuz they're deep in a lazarette trying to find where a water leak is coming from. So we said bye and luv yas by radio for Jim and to pass on our hellos to everyone in Ventura. Making me weepy again!

So off again to Los Frailes, just a day trip for a change. We had an interesting rainbow cloud around the sun today and saw rays jumping out of the water outside La Fortuna. Really cool!

Entering Frailes is interesting as the channel is huge and deep going into the bay. You feel like you're going to be on the beach before you find an anchoring depth! This place is really pretty and so quiet after Cabo and the water is so clear. Rays are jumping out of the water here too. There's so many jumping, it reminds me of the fountain at Bellaggio in Las Vegas.

Passage II made it in before the sunset. God are they fast!

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Who: Jim & Jeannine
Port: Newport, NY
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