We left with the sunrise and already have NW winds which means another day of motorsailing! Yeah! There were lots of dolphins today and as we neared the point of Concepcion there were lots, and I mean lots, of birds. Gulls, pelicans, frigates, boobies, turns and others just dive bombing and hanging out on the water. Must have been lots of bait fish around or something.
Of course as we turned into Concepcion Bay, the winds switched to SW and made getting into Coyote Bay a little tiresome. We decided to duck in and anchor off Isla Coyote and were able to get out of the winds and stay for the night. What a pretty little cove with our own private beach!
It is soooo quiet here that when the frigates dive toward the water, I can hear the wind on their wings! It sounds just like a kite when in a dive. How amazing! We tried casting for fish but didn't find any takers.
We pulled up anchor after coffee and scouted out the other anchorages here in Coyote Bay. Then the winds picked up again hard out of the NW and we decided to anchor in a nitch just south of Santispac which might be part of what is considered Posada. Another beautiful anchorage with our own private beach. We could see how the wind was whipping the other boats in Santispac but we stayed fairly calm all night (though we could hear it).
There are lots of vacation homes on the cliffs and we could hear a party going on. At first we thought that people just had really strange names for boats, like "green eyed lady" and "bon jovi boy", but it turns out the local landlubbers use VHF for communicating. It's just cruel to announce what everyone is bringing (food wise) to a party and when everyone's going to be there and then BBQ with the winds coming in our direction! Oh well next time we'll announce a potluck and horseshoes and not invite them. Ha Ha!
There is suppose to be hot springs near here somewhere so we are going to go scouting and hopefully find them soon so we can soak. The only thing that isn't great about this area is that the highway with inclines and declines run right next to the water and the big trucks are using the jake breaks all the time. You do get used to it (you just have to stop talking and wait for the silence to resume your conversation). Such a pretty spot I could care less!
We enjoyed lots of dolphins and whales on our way to San Juanico. The geology here is really interesting!
Winds picked up out of the SE so instead of anchoring closer to the reported fossil/crystal area, we were in the south end of the bay just inside the reef. We got the kayak inflated and made our way to the point. How is this amazingly tropical island blue water so FREAKING cold?
I'm finally in beachcomber heaven! There are all kinds of shells, weathered and beaten by the storms and some in great shape like they were just placed there. There are huge ones and small ones. We saw a turtle's shell too. (Now what could I make out of that? Work on that question next year!) Didn't find any fossils but we did pick up some rocks with crystals. So I didn't miss out on all of the joys of San Juanico! What a great place to explore. AND darn it if I didn't forget to bring the water camera to take some pictures of the fabulous scenery from the beach!
Had a bit of a workout trying to paddle back to the boat but we made it and got it all put away. We are certainly putting this place on our list for next year! Wish we had more time but onward we must go......up next Concepcion Bay!
We got out of Escondido early this morning and sailed with winds picking up pretty good to the pretty anchorage of Puerto Ballandra. First time we've had to anchor is some big winds but we did ok.
Discovery (from Mazatlan) beat us here from Escondido (didn't see them at all. How'd they do that?) They must be tired of seeing a red boat off their side! A few other boats are here and we talked to a couple of guys who were fishing from their dinks.
We also heard that the emergency situation on the radio was still not resolved. Little Fawn ran aground south of Agua Verde and has been on the beach for 2 days now without much help. But Mexican Navy is supposed to be there with support from La Paz and finally some people from Escondido & Agua Verde are going to help. Really hope they can save the boat.
We'd sure like to come back here again and walk the beach and the trails. No shore time for us this trip! And I only took video (what's WRONG with me? I'm losing it!)
It's a good thing we only had to go 20 miles today because the winds were hard on the nose today. There was no room in the "waiting room" to anchor so we pulled in and fueled up at the Singlar Marina fuel dock. What a ripoff! They charged us 31% on top of fuel. We don't get how they can charge that much on government-controlled fuel. 11% IVA tax and then dock fee for 20%. It certainly did not start us off on the right footing.
We checked at the fuel dock and found we can anchor in the enclosed area. Then we found out you have to pay for anchoring. ?????What do you mean pay for anchoring? Not slip, not mooring but anchoring. Well there goes strike 2. Unfortunately we have to stay because the winds are just howling in the enclosed area and didn't even want to know how bad it was outside! Oh well. Maybe town is nice!
Yep right. Strike 3. There really isn't a town here. Not a fishing village either. There's a Modelorama not far from the marina near the RV lot. And they charged us over 400 pesos for not even a bagful of stuff. Really not liking this place at all!
Walking back to the marina makes you think of the long road stretches in Mad Max movies. Then when you get to the developed area you feel like there was WW3 and nothing is left except a few half buildings and paved parking lots with lights. It's really a strange area.
Let me tell you about the grumpy people here. Hardly anybody waves or says hi and when you ask a question it's like we should be paying them for their time and effort. And they bitch about people having extended emergency discussions on VHF 16 when there's a boat aground and click the mic to annoy the people talking. We don't get it. Are their any CRUISERS here? So STRIKE 4.
Sorry no pics for Escondido, just a couple quick videos. I have to say that the mountains around here are really impressive (see I can think of one nice thing to say about this place :) )
When the winds let up, we are sooooo out of here! We're thinking of what we need to do and have on the boat so we can bypass this place next year!
A bit more wind today but of course not helpful wind, so we motorsailed all the way to our next destination -- Agua Verde. Big rocks here in the ocean and a few boats in all of the anchoring spots. There's even some palm trees on the beach!
Another small town, but bigger than Evaristo. We did not go ashore here.....maybe next year. It looks like a nice place to explore.
We left Ballandra early with light southwest winds. But of course as soon as we were out of the bay, the wind died. We're getting used to be a troller!
We trolled all day and not even a nibble! Lots of jumping rays today though. We chatted with Whirlwind (in San Francisco) and said bye as they are heading to La Paz.
Today was a whale of a day! I mean whales everywhere! Pilot whales by the dozens. I got lots of great footage but no pics so I can't post them. I take no chances with moving mammals! I have been beaten too long by dolphins.
Made great time to the anchorage in San Evaristo. It's a very small town here and I can hear roosters again! You really get used to hearing them. The townees are having a blast in a powerful panga pulling kids around on an inner tube.......going so fast sometimes it looks like it will be a parasailer vs an inner tube.
Amazing thing about VHF.....you can't talk to people in the next cove but sometimes you can use it like SSB! Point in fact: we heard Wally on Andanzas on the radio and got on the horn. Where are you? (How did he catch up already?) Oh he's just crossing from Mazatlan to Muertos....only 150ish miles away. Get out!