I4 Jun 2012
Sami, Kefalonia
The Real World?
Karyn and I know we are living an unreal life in at the center of a “world in financial pain”. I am going to skip over some of the really great cruising, harbors, sailing, friends, hikes, and sites we have had during the last month we have been afloat. I hope to get back to it shortly because the Ionian Islands of Greece are wonderful. But, the adventure d’jour is centered in Athens.
Athens is by far the largest population center of Greece. How Athens votes Sunday in the second stage of the national elections is the way that Greece will go. Will it be “accept the commitments of austerity and financial reform” that previous governments have negotiatiated and thereby stay within the Euro system? Or, will it be “reject those former governments, bring in a new government, risk exiting the Euro putting the existence of the EU in jeopardy”. What happens in Athens will have a huge impact on the people we have met here in the Ionian and they have no control at all.
Out here at the edge of Greece tourism is the industry. There is some agriculture in the form of olives, olive oil, grapes/wine, and small garden farms. There are no other exports, just self sufficient agriculture (almost) and tourists. What is here is not even well done, exploited well. It is all very “laid back” and attractive from a tourists point of view. A local business man would say it is all badly managed and corrupt, if he cared and if he wasn’t imbedded in the corrupt way of providing his livelihood.
One taverna owner, Yanni, is the mayor of Stavros, a small village at a crossroads in northern Ithica. He doesn’t know which way the vote will go. He was apathetic as his concern was that his party had already lost and now he would not have any money from Athens/EU to help run his village. Of course there was no tax money to run the village as no one pays their taxes. He was positively from the old school. Very friendly, light hearted, running the family business and concerned….but not worried!
A relatively young man, Mikus, was running a chandlery with his brother. He spoke fine English, was knowledgeable and helpful. He, like almost all Greeks we met, had a ready smile and was anxious to enter into conversation about the topic of the day: the elections. As we walk the streets past the tavernas, tavernas are everywhere, there is always a TV on. If it is not a ‘football’ match on then it is a Greek in a suit making a speech. I am certain it is a politician making a speech. Mikus doesn’t know who will win. It is too close to call. He is worried because business is so bad with many tourists staying away because of the bad news out of Athens. He also doesn’t care which way it goes. He believes that whatever the choice it will be bad(or worse) for a while but then it will get better. “Maybe it is better to have the Drachma back” then we can default, get it over with, and go on the way we have always gone on.
A 40ish woman running a tourist shop was born here in Sami, Cephalonia. Then she was raised in Australia and speaks Australian very well. She now lives here in her home town and has been elected to some position that I don’t understand but gives her the ability to get into the mayor face over whatever issue she has. And, does she have some issues. Most of what she wanted to do was get this place up to speed and productive. She had some “right ideas” in my mind but she is really bucking the old system. She is a strong willed, outspoken, not yet powerful woman who also does not know which way the election will go. She is a member of the communist party.
So out here on the edge of Greece everyone knows the eyes of the world are upon them. They are aware of the potential import of the election but feel that they are so small as to not make a difference. That is the same as it always has been. The power is in Athens within a few families. Here the sun will shine, the wind will blow, the tourists will come whether with Euros or drachmas they don’t know. The shop keepers only hope that more tourists come to enjoy this laid back, unorganized, happy place.