Whoever named the Pacific was obviously only here for a mini-break. Long enough to get a tan and some coconut cocktails. Not long enough to see to full spectrum of weather.

Our departure from Maupiti was delayed as, unless you had suicidal tendencies, as did one charter catamaran, presumably with a boat to get back to base and a flight to catch, the pass out the lagoon was a No-Go zone. The charter cat, to the amazement of all in the anchorage headed on out towards the pass. Even from a mile away, through binoculars you could see massive curling green waves rising, ever steeper to finally break and pound the reef, the pass and any willing charter victim.

Fortunately, he got close enough without being committed, took one look and turned back. He was lucky. The point of no turning back is pretty small as by the time you can see if the path is clear between the breakers you're just about in the grip of the 5 knot out-flowing current.

That's why we stayed put. We left in bright sunshine which we enjoyed for the first 24 hours before a bank of rain and 30k came through. Feeling a bit like we're back home, we are hunkered down below, peering into the murk from the companionway, auto steering doing the work and frequent nervous glances upwards to the masthead to check we're on track and no gybe imminent. Radars, AIS and stuff crackling.....but, nothing out here, other than the other yachts headed for the atoll of Suwarrow, pop 24.