No, not a Fijian form of Jenga, more a peace offering.

The Fijian islands are all owned by native Fijians or the Fijian government. If you fancied buying a wee plot and building a summer But 'n Ben, forget it. You can't. Foreigners can't buy or own land, nor indeed can the Indian Fijian population and they been here since the 1800's.

Every bit of land has an owner and on the islands, before you can lay out your beach towel or set up your BBQ you have to walk about for a bit in the bush, seeking out the village chief, or one of his head honchos. Once you've tracked down the big man, you have to present your play sticks, aka Kava root, a mildly narcotic plant that grows hereabouts. It's not cheap. $20 an offering but I guess it's better than a night in a marina.

For some islanders, mostly those on the beaten track, who get a steady and slightly monotonous trail of visitors apparently it's "Thanks for the Kava. Have a nice day. See ya." For others, especially on the remote islands it's a big deal to get a visitor so there's a big welcome and a Sevusevu ceremony to formally welcome you to the village.

The chief or in our case, his MC, usually an apprentice chief, the wives and some kids sit with you in a big circle. Some ritual hollow hand clapping, incantations and bingo, you're welcomed to the village and its environs. You then might get an opportunity to buy some locally made handicrafts; locally made in the village or, possibly somewhere like Wang Peng in the People's Republic of China.

And so, we are temporary residents of Mbenga, 25 miles south west of Suva, kayaking, scrubbing months of weed and barnacles, fixing taps and partying with Villomee, Randivag and Alexandra. Been a hard few days.