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Southern Italy
Will
06/18/2010, Roccella Ionica, Italy

This part of the coast of Italy is incredibly inhospitable with miles of white sand beaches and no coves or marinas for miles. Usually when we do find a marina to stay at, it's incredibly expensive, too, because there's nowhere else to go. But we struck the jackpot with Roccella Ionica. Here it's free unless they decide to collect. Normally it costs 20 euros a night regardless of the length of the boat, but the staff usually doesn't collect their money. No electricity, but we don't need that with our new solar panels.

We're just getting ready to go to Syracuse on Sicily this afternoon. Should be another overnighter -- the second in a row.

Treasures of Italy
Will
06/14/2010, Brindisi, Italy

Well, we've just completed a weeklong tour of the major tourist cities of Italy - Venice, Florence, and Rome. We started off in Venice with a long overnight train ride into the city. I must've gotten 2 hours of sleep (or at least the equivalent of 2 hours). When we arrived in Venice and got to our hostel, I was so tired I went to sleep right on two of the waiting chairs! But I was eventually woken up and we got some breakfast before heading out to see the city.

I survived that and slept through lunch (after which I was feeling marginally refreshed). Then we continued on to the Rialto Bridge, Piazza San Marco, and a smoothie shop. By then I felt like I actually had some energy and we took vaporetto #2 around the Grand Canal and other areas. Then we returned to the hostel for a half-hour before meeting up with my dad's friend, Michel. We stayed up late with him eating dinner (I must've eaten 10 fries and had a couple bites of chicken). But, it was fun, and I think I would go back if I got the chance.

The next morning (after I'd tried to go to sleep and ended up unconscious) we took a high-speed train to Florence (Firenze in Italian). The high-speed trains are quite nice with little to no graffiti on them. They don't even have a special car for the engine (which is electric and uses 340 volt). The first class coach is in the engine car.

Florence is a pretty cool place. Things aren't too far away especially if you've gotten a hotel between the Duomo and the train station. We weren't so lucky, but our hotel was nicer than we expected. It is called Hotel Alamanni and is on Via Alamanni (go figure!). But it was kind of out of town, so we had to walk awhile before we got into the tourist area.

The Duomo is awesome. It's free to go in, and tourists use that to its full extent. The church is still used as a church, so they want you to keep quiet, but nobody wants to, so they have to keep reminding everyone. But the workmanship is so detailed and amazing. Unfortunately, someone could get a pressure washing job for several years if they wanted to.

We went to the Uffizi gallery next and saw a lot of famous pieces of art (including Botticelli's 'The Birth of Venus'). It was amazing, but also quite boring (I thought). You see one Renaissance piece of art by an obscure artist, you've seen 'em all. However, what I thought was the most interesting was the frames. Some of these frames are gold plated with exquisite columns carved on the front and elaborate carvings around the edges. Others are just your plain 12' by 12' gold plated frame.

The Galleria d'Accadmie just had the David by Michelangelo and a bunch of other paintings. If they didn't have the David, I doubt they'd be able to charge as much as they do -- there's nothing else there.

From Florence we took the slow train to Rome. Rome's cool, but it'd be nice if it wasn't so modern. It kind of degrades the sense of how old the ruins really are. We saw the Coliseum (Colossi), Forum, Palatine Hill, the Vatican Museums, St. Peter's Basilica and Square, the Jewish Ghetto, the Pantheon, and the Hippodrome. The Ghetto, Pantheon, and Hippodrome are free. The Ghetto is just an area, and while the Pantheon is an actual building, the Hippodrome is just a grassy field you can fly kites in. The Coliseum, Forum, and Palatine Hill are all on one ticket (12 Euro). However, the Vatican Museums are separate (goes to show that the Vatican is its own state, albeit the smallest) and cost a number I don't know - we skipped the line (I'm glad we did - the line must've been a couple football fields long) and went on a guided tour. That was neat, because we saw only the necessary stuff, although we missed a lot. I bet we'd still be there if we had gone by our self!

St. Peter's Basilica and Square were cool. The Basilica is the largest Catholic Church in the world and is built on the remains of St. Peter. There is an Egyptian obelisk where he was killed and the Square is built around it. The church itself was worked on by 4 architects through a succession of 22 popes. Michelangelo himself worked on the dome (the largest in the Catholic world) but couldn't see it because he died. He was 79 when he started work.

That concluded our tour. The next day we took a brief walk-around tour of the Palatine and Forum before we jumped on our train and headed back to Brindisi. Overall the trip was awesome. I'd go back to some places again, although I probably won't do the whole thing. At least I know what to see!

P.S. The photo is of the Coliseum.

The essentials...
Will
05/20/2010, Dubrovnik, Croatia

...that we have found to be important in our cruising lifestyle include fast Wi-Fi and warm (or at least semi-warm!) weather -- both of which we have here in Dubrovnik.

When we were woken up this morning at 8:45 (we stayed up late the night before), it was to find 20 knot winds on our beam. We were reaching under double reefed main and jib about 5 n.m. away from our destination -- Gruž. We'd picked Gruž because of its size and proximity to Dubrovnik. It was about a mile from the old town (restored from bombing during the war with the Serbs) and relatively small in size -- we didn't want a Bodrum where we paid $200 for an agent to check us in. So we came around the point and docked up at the Customs dock.

After that we had brunch (we hadn't had any breakfast) and headed out to take a boat tour (by Nelson's Croatian Boat Tours) of the old town. I wondered for awhile how my dad planned to get the boat onto the streets of the old town, but I soon stopped worrying when it became evident that we weren't going to tour the old town -- just the outside walls.

Anyway, the castle from the outside is magnificent. It is so much better and well preserved than Mandraki (Rhodes), I wish that we could tour the inside too. But we couldn't, so we motored back to our now a lee shore anchorage.

The overnighter (that became a not-so-overnighter)
Will
05/18/2010, Vlore, Albania

We ended up here even though we don't want to be here. It started out like this...

We left Corfu and started to go on our overnight passage to Budva, Montenegro (we were going to go to Bar). But it got a bit too windy so we turned around and tied up at a quay on the north shore of Corfu where we spent the night. The next morning we had to move because the tour boat we had rafted up to wanted to leave along with two other boats we'd met the day before. So we decided to go with them to the next bay over. However, don't count your safe harbors till you're in them because we decided to try the overnighter we'd tried the day before.

Well we were getting 15 knots from the north, so we decided to duck into Vlore, 50 mile up the coast. Unfortunately there were about 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 wave sets, so it was extremely uncomfortable.

However, we made it. So now we are waiting out a 20 knot northerly in the Vlore commercial harbor.

05/18/2010 | Brandon
Hey, my name is Brandon. I've been reading your blog for a while now. I've also been really reading your dads so it's fun to see how you both write on the same situations. I live in Seattle and was searching sail blogs from Seattle, so that's how I found yours. I read you are heading to Croatia so I'm super excited to see what you do and any pictures you post. I've been in that area and loved it. How do you like sailing? How long have you been on the boat? Have you met many friends while traveling? What do you do for school? I homeschooled all the way through my junior year of high school and really enjoyed it. Anyways, thanks for posting your blog, I really enjoy reading it.

Brandon
Back to Methoni
Will
05/10/2010, Methoni, Greece

Well, we're back in Methoni. I don't believe that I blogged last visit, but I think my dad did. Anyhow, we are here now, although we wouldn't be if the weather was better. It's not too bad - only 20 knots - but the NW winds on the Ionian can build up some large waves (we were seeing them splash up maybe 20 feet on a nearby island!). So we will move on tomorrow (hopefully) to an anchorage 40 miles up the coast.

Bye for now.

The olive capitol of the world?
Will
05/07/2010, Kalamata, Greece

Since I haven't been blogging lately, I'll give you a summarized version of what happened since my last blog.

We got splashed in Agios Nikolaos and spent 2 days sailing to the west end of Crete before taking off on a 73 mile trip to Porto Kayio (the middle point on the Peloponnese). After spending a night there we went on a 50 miler to our current location -- Kalamata. We'll spend one more night here before heading off to Methoni (see previous blogs).

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