Mit achterlichem Wind um 18kn sind wir am 04.11.2011 um 12:00 in Didim ausgelaufen und bis zu den Catal Islands vor Turgutreis gesegelt. Ankunft 17:00 vor Anker.
Am 5.11.2011 Start 9:00 über Kos zur Trennlinie Knidos wo die Ostägäis beginnt. Am Restaurantsteg unter Mondlicht 18:05 längsseits festgemacht. Fallboen über Nacht aber ruhig und sicher geschlafen.
Start 09:30 von Knidos Richtung Ost. Nach 2 nM kein Wind. Unter Maschine bis
Ak Burnu danach Segel Vollzeug mit 3-5 kn Fahrt und max. 8 kn Wind bis 14:00 durchgehalten. als dann der Wind nur noch mit 3-5 kn achterlich aufkam - Motor an bis Bozburun. Hier in der Bucht bei 0 Wind vor Anker.
nach einigen kleinen toerns im Dodekanes und an der türkischen Riviera haben wir ARIES DREAM jetzt nach Didim verlegt. Diese großzügige D-Marin bietet alle Möglichkeiten zum überwintern und hat neben einem riesigen hard-stand auch diverse Service Unternehmen Wasserliegeplätze mit Strom, Wasser, Free TV und Telefonanschluss. Von hier lassen sich auch mit besseren Windgegebenheiten die Kykladen erreichen.
08/02/2011, back in Bodrum
Our first sailing trip with SY ARIES DREAM
March 25 - May 4th 2011
CROATIA - ITALY - GREECE - TURKEY
25.3.2011 Flight Bodrum - Istanbul - Milano with Rental car to Triest.
A gentleman a diamond trader called us some days before our trip and expressed interest in our house in Bodrum and asked for a meeting point. We organized accordingly and suggested a place near the airport of Bergamo. On arrival he called to tell us that he was suddenly busy and would send a partner. Speaking to that chap on the phone was rather difficult. We stuck to our plan and waited at the agreed hotel bar, had a coffee and quite soon were on our way to Triest without selling the house. Our GPS system led us, after some irritation, to the Hotel Miramare in Triest near the well known Castle on the Adria coast.
Juanita's 50th birthday
The sun was shining on the balcony with see view. Birthday presents from Mum and the first diving suit spread out on the bed were unpacked and off for breakfast.
Nevertheless the main present was a shopping day at "Motomarine" a ship`s chandler in Triest. We carried a complete list of necessary items, so shopping wasn`t difficult. Juanita could not get over all the sensible but also useless items in this leisure industry.
Our rental car packed up with our 100 kg excess baggage from Bodrum, was fortunately a Fiat Doblo-Maxi so we could even load more.
We found a small trattoria downtown which was not pimped for tourists. Cooking was performed by "Mama" and we enjoyed Prosciutto Crudo San Daniele and Pasta Cozze e Vongole. Delicious.
Our GPS should have led us to Oppicina and to the Grotta Gigante but 2 roads were closed and finally the 3rd road was open. The street got narrower and with a steep rise of 25% and with lots of luggage in the trunk I thought the front wheel car would jump. At every corner we hoped to have reached the end of the difficult route, but it went on and on with oncoming traffic. Finally we reached the parking lot of Grotta Gigante, got the entrance tickets and had 30 minutes waiting until the next tour which we used to study the history of the cave. Approximate 500 well built steps lead us down to the bottom along phantastic stalagmites and stalactites. At the bottom we find a pendular for geo sciences. In order to better recognize the overall size of the Cave, a drawing of the entire St. Peter's Basilica can be seen. A fantastic place.
Only a few km away we find the city and stud of Lippiza. Here the Lippizaner (white horses) for the Riding School of Vienna are born.
Luckily a german speaking "horse whisperer" was touring only the two of us. He introduced us into the functioning and the pedagogical specifics of the stud. Approximate 400 horses are permanently present for breeding and education.
The longtime tradition of the stud with carriage museum attracts thousands of tourists every year.
A visit to the affiliated Casino we had to cancel caused by missing ID cards. On our way back we visited the Castle Duino and stopped at an extravagant Restaurant in Griginiano and enjoyed the warmth of the open fire place.
Today we have to return the rental car because Europcar does not allow cross-border. We enjoy another lunch at "Mama"s simple Restaurant. Prosecco, Prociutto, Veal in wine sauce + Risotto blackened by Sepia along with the cool house wine.
At 13h30 we have an appointment at SILOS (the place I lived from 1946-1952). Silos has been a wagon train loading station and was used after the second world war as a refugee camp. For up to 2400 families a wooden crate of each 5x5m served families as living space.
From our Croatian broker we requested a big car to enable us to transport our entire luggage. Punctually a white Volvo station car built in 1985 parked in front of us. A young woman "Sladjana" jumped out of the car wearing sneekers and 42 piercings of which only 25 were all over her face. A cute young lady, with a positive charisma welcomed us so friendly and our prejudices regarding piercings were wiped out at once. The old-timer was loaded and off we went enroute via Slovenja to Rijeka and then crossing the bridge to the island of Krk. Altogether 160km and with every change of gear, breaking or starting, the car gave another noise. Nevertheless the happiness of the girl and tales told washed out all our concerns. She visited the oldest navigation school in Europe and with her diploma travelled 3 years on the high seas. In Opatia we picked up a rental car and while driving myself again, I felt relaxed.
On arrival in Krk, we dropped off our luggage at the small apartment offered by Alen our Croatian broker and drove to the shipyard. The first contact with ARIES DREAM was a very positive surprise for Juanita.
29.03.2011 - 05.04.2011
The days were filled with works such as installing the generator for which we had to use the patent slip, the installation of the inverter, the new VHF system with the chart plotter and the logo with the name. Another trip to Triest was planned to get more tools and in order to bunker Italian food. We found a huge LIDL in Triest.
We planned to leave on 6.4. and in preparation Juanita said: "let us test the anchor winch" so we did - and "cluck" nothing happened - again - nothing.
The shaft was not revolving even with the brake open. So dismantling of the motor and testing. Ok. Dismantling of complete windlass. Ball-bearing completely corroded. Nothing works. Only with a vice and screw extension the opening worked. The outside of the Aluminum case of the bearing looked like a stalactite cave. The bearing itself is just a black chunk. Now to find a fast interim solution. The owner of a shipyard in Punat had pity on us and in addition wanted to provide me with a birthday present so he offered to help. Welding Aluminum on top in order to turn it off for the insert of a new bearing (which had to be found) took half a day but in the evening I re-installed the windlass which will hopefully last for another year.
A dinner at Galija our favourite Restaurant reconciles us with that exciting last minute story.
René's 65th birthday.
An early morning good-bye to Alen, clearing the port and course Mali - Losini.
With aft winds we are sailing at 6-7 kn. We were told the channel (eastside) would be to narrow (6m) and therefore we sail around the south edge of the island. Around midday, time for christening. After a proper speech of the skipper the Champagne bottle shall burst against the anchor - but only after 25 chimes Neptun accepts our sacrifice.
On arrival at the new YC Marina (only 2 yachts at the jetty) a staff member welcomes us, collects our papers and closes the reception. We still have to clear at customs but nobody knows where the office is. After research we find out the customs office lies at the opposite side of the bay. We look at each other and decide: let's walk. About 2.5 km finally we find it. Officer asks for the papers and the Vignetta - we tell him: at the Marina, which is closed. Policeman decides to drive with me to the boat to note the number. Done. Back to the office where Juanita waits patiently - and now? Walking back of course. Now we can celebrate the birthday and find the Restaurant Barakuda. We enjoy a princely dinner with turbot in the oven and exclusive Cabernet.
Total trip 52 nm
Course to Trogir cancelled. Anchor aweigh 8h35 course Solta. Calm breeze so engine on, stopover in Marina Seget (the previous home port of ARIESDREAM) to check if still papers are available. Juanita goes aloft the mast because top signal is out of order. But she cannot reach from top - she's just too short!
Mooring at ferry harbour of Sistruni. 103 nm.
On the way south with wind 4-5 bft. Between 11-18h only 3 engine hours. We find a small Restaurant bay "SESOLA" with a few fishing boats and moor alongside of a swimming pontoon. 46 nm.
Starting at 6h45 course Korcula 69.4 nm
Have to motor as too little wind. On arrival of the neighbour bay of the Marina (Bay Luka) Juanita reads in the Mediteranean Almanach about the heavy chain across the bay.
Our manoevering works out fine, but the bowthruster switch strikes - well, simply repaired it. During the night heavy down gusts up to 54 kn from mountainside hit the bay. Our anchor holds its position stable. Next morning all is peaceful light breeze.
Resting in the nice bay with sightseeing and taking lots of photographs.
07:30 - anchor up! It does not work! The heavy chain lying on the ground got us!
And now finally the windlass "retires". We call the Marina for help and they provide us with a phone no of the diver Damir: 0038598244374. He arrives an hour later and finishes his Job for 100€. The anchor and chain now has to be collected manually and via the sheet winch. A rather hard task but at 09:40 we depart towards Dubrovnik.
At last sailing again! Plan to moor at ACI Marina but it is very windy and fully booked.
We return and moore alongside at the taxi boat quay of the ferry harbour. Bunker at the supermarket behind the park and in the evening we grab a taxi and visit the old city. Few tourists, city illuminated. Juanita is fascinated by the magnificence of the middle age. The city wall is already closed (19h). No luck in finding an entrance.
We were told that Taxi boats will start activities at 6h am and therefore we relocate towards customs quay. For 8h an agent was announced by the Croatian broker to clear the papers. At 10h30 a guy scuffles along and requests all available papers and disappears. We wait for any activity, call the broker, call the selling bank - we are told all ok the Agent will come back soon. Nothing! At 16h30 we get impatient.
I walk into the customs office - a team of 3 starring at me ??? I ask them where my papers are? They reply: "where you're from?" Presenting my ID they react: "there is a problem!" "What for a problem". "Well you checked out already in Mali Losin - so actually you are not in Croatia anymore!" (The customs officer over there even wished me a happy holiday in Croatia!) But on the crew list is an exit remark!!!
Conclusion of the customs office Dubrovnik: "you better leave immediately - no police, no harbour master - just leave!"
At 17h engine on. Petrol station filling 305 litre. Let's move to Italy! Caused by the technical problems we change our original aim Monopoli to Bari.
Barometer shows 1015. At 18h25 switching off the engine, course 197° with all sheets open and a back stay breeze results in 7-8 kn.
At 24h Pos 41°57'7590N/017°47'6520E - speed 7,4kn - Barometer 1011
Night cruise Dubrovnik - Bari
At 03h strong sea state with wind of 28 kn. Soon barometer down to 1009.
Juanita falls see sick and stays in cabin most of the time.
At 05h30 retreive genoa and shorten main sail 25%. Engine on.
Every choppy wave throws us out of the course. Switching off the autopilote.
Sunrise at 06h25 barometer 1006 / wind 40 kn
08h00 wind of 48 kn. Flying see!
11h30 Bari CUS-Jetty Cantiere Ranieri - fixed. Engine off. Catch up sleep until 16h. Searching for yacht chandler to supply new windlass.
Ordering windlass - delivery date 18.4.!
In owners cabin hatch is leaking! Complete dismantling. Screw connections in balsa wood totally rotten. Remove all shimmings and fill with teak pieces and lamination. 48 h for hardening! Removal of old windlass. Unfortunately the drilling template for the new QUICK Dylan is not available in the internet!
Our friend from Naples arrives early morning for the installation of our AIR BREEZE wind turbine. With all available tools and 6 hands the work is fulfilled rapidly even killing 4 HSS drill bits while drilling the V4A (Inox) Pole.
Unfortunately no time for celebrating the first team installation.
Lots of small works, shopping, laundry etc.
The new windlass arrives and the template of course does not match with the boreholes. Only the shaft centre and opening for the chain can be adopted. All other holes have to be closed with wooden cork and cast resin. In order to adopt the shaft centre I need an electric driller and exact drill bits. In addition both gas pressure springs of the boom vang are completely corroded and have to be renewed.
Armed with one rusty spring I am heading towards the gate. When asking the porter for the direction to a tool shop, he is pointing to a person next to a silver Mercedes in front of the gate and "where? what ?" He looks at me, and states in perfect English: "my name is Costa and I used to work in the US - let's go!" The typical conversation starts while weaving the roads of Bari to find the right tool shop.
The selection of the right tools is made fast, as Costa is in a hurry for an important business meeting. But when asking for the the gas pressure springs the salesmen only shake their head. 500 m - next store - the same result. Costa calls his business partner to postpone his meeting and says:" I have a friend outside of Bari - he owns a spare part shop for trucks - we will find what you need - no worries". After 15 km suburbs of Bari we reach a big industrial area and check one of the big stores. Not the correct size available. No problem we check another store of a friend. Warm welcome of the "patron" - and there we are! Finally we get the parts and even at a reduced price for the new German friend. Costa drives me back to the Yacht club and drops me almost on to the pontoon. With a friendly farewell like good old friends, we agree to meet the next evening. Rest of the day is filled with the preparations for the installations.
Installation of windlass isn't easy as the shaft and the deck floor should be levelled in parallel. A fitting part can only be supplied in 2 days - therefore adjusting washers are used. After several attempts we succeed.
In the evening Costantino Ferrulli (Costa) and his wire Annabella visit us and carry 1 bottle of red wine, 2 bottles of green olives, 2 glasses of artichokes , 1 bottle of Manarincello all home made ! Many travelling and adventure stories are exchanged and we finish a wonderful evening at the Club Restaurant having PANZEROTTI filled samosas.
Bari - Monopoli.
8h15 by engine no incident
10h30 mooring alongside at castle pontoon
Many years ago we visited a Restaurant in Monopoly which impressed us - so we want to find it. In daylight all alleys look alike, but with my patience and serendipity we find it. Only open in the evening. We stroll through the wonderful city, pass by the shipyard to take a look at Costa's wooden motor yacht - a big boy of 17 m and two engines. At the "Deutsche Bank" we want to exchange our last Croatian Kuna - but no way. None of the Eastern bloc states currencies would be accepted. Checked at another bank. No chance.
The dinner at our Restaurant "Patio" our highlight! Starters of raw fish and seefood, Oysters, Calamari, Langustini, Shrimps and and and - simply delicious!
The waitress Rosita tel ...... speaks fluently German and her service is outstanding.
At 22h suddenly the place fills with youngsters all wanting to dance Salsa. We are watching them from our balcony table and enjoy the music and our life!
Monopoli - Brindisi
05h30 cast off! Engine on 48 nm to Brindisi.
10h30 mooring at city quay - directly at the staircase of the first column of the Via Appia - the historical route to Rome. Juanita is very impressed that we got this mooring place.
Behind us a 44 ft Catamaran with US flag. The owner Igor a young friendly Russian greets us and is happy we receive their mooring lines. He invites us to have Bonito (Raw Tuna) which he caught the day before. The hospitality even included the change of our Kuna. In the evening we meet again for a sundowner and many stories to exchange.
Our dinner at an Angus Steakhouse is disappointing and again we have not met an Italian cook preparing a correct Steak!
Brindisi - Otranto
06h30 Engines on - 13h00 engines off and mooring in front of the Guardia Costiera.
After registration at the Capitaneria, (where for the first time after many years I have to present my Captains license), we visit the castle and the old city. Many tourists stroll through the alleys and the displayed goods are almost bursting the windows.
In the evening Fabio with his wife Monica and Alice (15 month) visit us. Fabio is working since many years for Francis Ford Coppola and we first met during a 3 weeks sailing trip on SY Aurastel where I was the professional Skipper for some years. Francis and his wife Elli together with 4 friends came to enjoy the Greek islands and it was an unforgettable trip. Fabio an enthusiastic subaqueous hunter tells us of his new purchased Alumium Sonate Ovni and that he soon wants to verify the thesis: the world is round! But before he wants to finish the project for Francis, to reconstruct and modify an old patrician building to a super hotel in the Basilicata Region. We are excited to see the results in summer!
No wind - engines on until Corfu.
As there is little shipping traffic, Juanita takes more and more helm responsibility and keeps ARIES DREAM on course. Now and then I can go to sleep or write this report.
No further incident enroute.
Because we had started early, we decide to sail on to Paxos and find in the bay of Ormos Gaios a silent anchorage.
In the evening we see a lot of movement in the village and from time to time we hear a fire cracker but do not attach any importance to it. My watch shows 23h when we wake up caused by heavy gun noise, fire crackers and illumination exactly above us.
For 15 minutes our boat is left under a coloured starry sky and Juanita thanks me for organizing it to celebrate our 7th year anniversary. Unfortunately next morning bad awakening: we have to swab the deck to get rid of the remains.
Our friend Costa from Bari suggested to call at Fisikada the north east bay of Cephalonia.
17h entering the port -
bow thruster out of order!
Windlass out of order!
Batteries - zero!
Generator does not start!
The anchor lies in the middle of the bay, as we planned to berth RK / backwards.
Jumping into the guest cabin, upholstery out, batteries uncovering, Starter (engine) battery change to service (house) battery - Generator starting - all works again!
Mooring procedure works out without any further problem.
On shore we identify boxes with electricity and water connections. Unfortunately all cables are pinched off and the water is cut off too. By the way, the same case in Brindisi - city quay.
Internet connection provided by the Coffee bar for free and with my special antenna I have connection on board.
08h departing Fisikada direction Patras.
Alternating engine - sails up until 10 nm before Patras. Short high waves and wind from North/East with gusts up to 46 kn against us not really sensible to continue. Change of course direction Peloponnesus, close reefed main and genoa until Killini - 78 nm. 19h00 Killini mooring alongside. Harbour with lots of ferry traffic to Zakynthos. Do not leave the boat. Restless night caused by plenty of fishermen boats and heavy swell.
09h30 A garbage truck almost kills our bimini holdings during a maneuver backwards at the quay. Well: KILLINI! Therefore engine on and immediate cast off direction south to Katakolon.
14h00 tie up alongside Katakolon within the fishermen corner. Have to fill fuel and need new starter battery. Two large Cruise ships from Costa + Holland America Line and one CNS Cruiser in the roads. At the quay, coffee shops, restaurants, souvenir shops, jeweller and fashion shops - one after the other! The only interesting shop is owned by a underwater sport shooter, who speaks fluently English and supports us in getting a new battery, as well as ordering fuel by truck. We fill 384 lit at 1.54€.
Because we need to have a cruising permit for Greece, which has to be pre-paid downtown - we have to rent a car to drive to Pirgos next morning.
Almost no sleep caused by heavy swell, which is pressing us against the quay wall. The noise from the fenders and the unusual move does not make it comfortable at all! Not advisable to stay.
Collection of our laundry to take the chance! Upon arrival in Pirgos just at the entrance a big modern laundry. All shall be ready in 3 hours. Great.
Where is the Tax office to pay our permit? Just opposite! Wow. All signs in cyrillic - can't read anything (being in Europe). Juanita simply decides to take a chance in the first floor, a big service counter area, many people and all of them carry a service-number. Juanita straightaway enters the first counter, places the paper along with the question and just gets a frown - The lady asks the crowd if anyone speaks German or English? A man behind us helps us and after 30 seconds we get the needed document - pay the fee and leave.
We still have time until laundry is ready and therefore we decide to visit Olympia! The historical birthplace of the Olympic games. It takes us 15 min and we stand in a "Japanese Garden" filled with coloured blossoms and wonderful trees in which we find the beautiful ancient excavations - any many tourists! Trying to get our isolated impressions but cannot flee from all groups. The magic flavour of the trees remains with us for a long time.
We pick up the laundry, provision the yacht, install the battery and ready for take off tomorrow.
Katakolon - Pilos
Every alternate hour sailing - motoring. Increase of bulk carrier traffic. Our AIS works terrific.
14h30 arrival in Pilos we listen to a sound check ashore. Rock? Jazz? Indefinable.
After enjoying a nice dinner on board we recognize signs of a thunderstorm and support a lonely "SEEMANNSBRAUT" to weather out a gale, who stays alongside on a 40' SY. After a short time we get ready to raise the land. The village does not provide much beauty, but the crew of a Russian Provision ship is raising land in smart uniforms. An Italian GAUKLERTRUPPE starts activities with lots of tam tam, fireworks and dancing and all accompanied with the still indefinable sound. Obviously the story reflects the victory of this city against the fire devil. And finally again fireworks above ARIESDREAM - this time without marks on deck!
PILOS - NAPOLIS
05h00 up anchor - a long distance ahead. Until 12h00 engine on - now full main sail and genoa. Lots of traffic at the south spit of the Peloponnesus. AIS signals at all times. Enroute we make out a shark fin, which is following the steamer's line.
Leeward ahead a SY and in the far distance another SY same course. They shall remain our rivals for the next hours. We pass a Beneteau 43 DS (see picture) and they smilingly admit we won the race. But when preparing for anchorage in the harbour entrance we rekon a blockade of the gearshift. When checking the bowden cable of the gear, I find it twisted and releases it. Anchoring in the roads cancelled by the port authority via radio (ferry awaited) but allocates an exclusive alongside berth.
Napolis - Milos
06:00 cast off!
15h30 mooring at Milos - no unforeseen incidences.
Dinner at a Restaurant, but no new perception in the Greek cuisine. Difficulties with our ATM cards - but one is working again! An uneasy mooring - lost stern fender.
06h00 cast off! Checking the entire harbour for a lonely swimming fender. Nothing.
Sailing off with aft wind of 18kn. Course Milos north. Increasing breeze. Beating towards Folegandros. High and choppy waves and against us. Engine on. Sails furled in. Manually steering upwind until Ormos Vati. Anchoring at 12h00.
After checking weather forecast via Internet we expect south wind up to 6 bf - therefore anchor up! Course north west spit of island avoiding the waves. Direction to Ios. We drop anchor at 20h00 Ios north - Ormos Theodotis. Wind remains from south during the night. Anchor bites but we use anchor alarm for safety!
IOS - Amorgos - Kos
09h00 up anchor assisted by generator (which loads the battery in parallel) - negative! I have to weigh anchor chain of 20 m manually. Sailing course - Amorgos.
At 12h00 dying wind. Switching engine - negative! Switching generator - negative! Preparing a jumper cable for house/engine battery - success! All engines work again! We decide to run non-stop to Kos.
Day in port. Juanita enjoys bicycling still having "sealegs".
Shopping for Nico at Lidl by Taxi. At 12h00 we have to depart from Kos Marina otherwise have to pay anchorage for another day. 11h45 anchor aweigh! A small yellow van circles the Marina while we are trying to get a confirmation for mooring alongside to take goods on board (2 new toilets) and to fill petrol by truck 325 lit (choppy waves at petrol station!) All done. Off we go - direction shipyard in Icmeler/ Bodrum.
tomorrow we are departing from our beautiful home in Bodrum to meet "Aries Dream" for the first time ! Thanks to René who prepared everything to celebrate my birthday week in the greatest environment I can think of!
VERY EXCITED !
03/16/2011, Krk Island
With big transportation problems the new Liferaft from France has arrived.
The boat will be on the hard for one week to install the new generator and others. Juanita will see it on her birthday 26.03. hopefully back to sea. The plan is to start right after to Turkey.