This is a quick update sent via the SSB radio to report that we are on the west side of the Ha'apai Group of Tongan islands and that all is going well. Once Randall had fully recovered from his lingering cold, we left Tongatapu on July 24th and spent three nights anchored west of the tiny island of Malinoa, just a few miles north of Pangaimotu. Here we enjoyed some excellent snorkeling and fully explored the tiny, deserted island. Southwest winds on the third night, however, made for rolly conditions which encouraged us to leave.

From there we had an excellent sail northeast to Kelefesia Island at the very south end of the Ha'apai Group. It is a beautiful island with yellow, sandstone cliffs at each end and a long sand spit exposed at low tide. We had hoped to spend two days there snorkeling, exploring the island, and getting to know the couple that lived there, but after one very rolly night (the swell was coming from the southwest, the only direction to which the anchorage was exposed) and with forecasts for stronger winds to come, we decided to move somewhere more protected.

We were disappointed to find that the tiny, reef-protected anchorage at Telekivavau Island, which was further to the northeast, was not suitable so we spent another rolly night on the west side of the neighboring, also uninhabited, Lalona Island. We then had a good downwind sail to the northwest to look at O'ua Island but finally decided to go to the large anchorage on the west side of Ha'afeva Island.

Although a little rolly when the winds come from north-northeast or south-southeast, we really like this site. The anchor is well-buried in the middle of a large sandy area with no risk of the chain damaging any coral. We are sheltered by the island from chop created by the prevailing east to southeast winds. There are plenty of interesting snorkeling sites within swimming distance of Tregoning and we will soon put the outboard on the dinghy to explore those further away on the surrounding reef or other side of the island. There is a good-sized village on the east side of the island that we plan to explore this afternoon.

But, most unexpectedly and perhaps best of all, we share the anchorage with at least three mother-and-calf pairs of humpback whales. They are not all in the bay all of the time but we have been thrilled to watch their antics from the cockpit, including breaching, tail- and pectoral fin-slapping, and spy-hopping by the calves (sticking their noses vertically out of the water). We had seen many whales as we sailed into and around the Ha'apai Islands but sharing a lagoon with them is particularly satisfying.

The highlight was one afternoon when a mother, calf, and escort male swam within a boat-length of Tregoning's stern before slowing turning around, only to repeat the maneuver a little while later off Tegoning's bow. In the 26-feet (8-m) deep water, they turned around between us and the other anchored boat, the catamaran Cactus Island and swam back past us to the deeper parts of the bay. For the second visit, I grabbed my mask and snorkel and slipped into the water while Randall, Gerald, and Marie watched from the boat decks. I deliberately did not put on fins and was careful not to let go of the line between Tregoning and our dinghy because I did not want to be tempted to follow these wonderful creatures. Following and snorkeling with whales is only allowed from commercial vessels that have been licensed for that activity. Sadly, I did not have time to grab the underwater camera but it was still amazing to see these massive animals passing so close to our anchored boat and maneuvering so gracefully in the relatively shallow water. There will be more details and plenty of above-water photos to follow when we have internet coverage again, perhaps in a week or so.