Polace
20 July 2013 | Miljet Island, Croatia
Ros Brice
The sea was very calm with very little breeze so we motored with the headsail from Lastovo Island to Miljet Island, reminiscing about our time in Skrivena Luka.
When collecting the bread from Porto Rosso Konoba and pausing for a coffee in the morning calm, John and Ros had the opportunity to interact with a family group of grandfather (very fit), daughter and granddaughter (aged 3). The child was being spoilt by a self confessed doting granddad and mum was feeling cheated that the little one was too demanding and she couldn't enjoy her coffee in peace....sounds so familiar! The trio were living on board a yacht for the summer at the jetty and granddad was employed for the first time looking after the yachts and crews when they visit. There are good facilities (including laundry) in this unexpected location, and it was explained that that grandma is an architect and has designed much of the lovely outdoor facilities. When he first visited 40 years ago, there was only the original two storey building and he has visited as a guest every summer since. There are plans for ecotourism, with small cottages up on the hill and vegetable patches for the guests to source their food. Porto Rosso Konoba is dedicated to using local produce only and of high quality. We found ourselves reflecting on what a great find and lovely memories of a shared conversation.
We approached Miljet, an island described as ' the most seductive' .....that description got us! The northwestern half of the island forms Miljet National Park, where the lush vegetation, pine forests and spectacular saltwater lakes are beautiful. We call into the seaside town of Pomena, a very pretty fishing port and dominated by a white three storey hotel of pleasing design (we have an architect on board passing comment!), that wrapped around the entrance to the quay.
Opposite, there is a lineup of Konoba and the staff are waiting on the quayside, competing to beckon you to come and tie up for free, with the condition you eat at their restaurant. We have not done this yet and we have a preference for not starting now. If we choose to eat a restaurant meal, we like to do our research (Trip Advisor is a good starting point) but we also like the privacy, freedom to dive overboard to swim and the tranquility that comes with an anchorage. There were a few yachts using stern ropes to hold their position on the other side of the bay, but we decided that as much as Pomena looked quite lovely, we would investigate Polače, around a narrow peninsula, as a more suitable place to stay for a couple of nights.
The settlement of Polače lies in a deep, well-sheltered bay with a large and beautiful anchorage reminiscent of Pittwater (NSW), with deep folding wooded slopes, but with none of the familiar yellow Hawkesbury sandstone, instead the omnipresent whitish limestone. We eyed off many luxury yachts as we manoeuvred Trilogy safely into position for anchorage. From a magnificent looking French registered schooner came an Aussie yell 'did you buy your yacht from Ian Treleaven?', to which the skipper called 'affirmative'. That is not quite true, but Ian and his wife Andrea, who have spent endless summers cruising the Med in a Beneteau 50 yacht 'Cadiz', were pivotal in reassuring us in Rushcutters Bay over coffee in 2011, that the adventure we were planning would be all that we hoped for....and the rest is history. We didn't get another chance to speak to this Aussie, more is the pity as we would have welcomed a closer look at the stylish schooner.
With the heat hitting us when we anchored, it was time for some laps around Trilogy in the cooling waters. The National Park staff greeted us warmly to collect park fees and sell the virtues of the pristine environment. The Yahtzee competition continued while Garth and Ros motored ashore to stretch the legs, check out hire cars and get more 'lemon beer' a new taste sensation we have come to enjoy. Kat was happy to cook a tasty pasta dish and before long another day was over.
Hiring a car through Mini Brum was no problem and before we knew it we were kitted out in a two door red Volkswagen Golf convertible, with a slipping clutch and worn brakes. We headed for the inland saltwater lakes and Benedictine Monastery, situated on an islet in the middle of Veliko Jezero, the larger lake. The monastery was built in the 12th century and was rebuilt several times before being abandoned in 1869. Today it is undergoing some restoration and houses a lovely restaurant by the water. From here we toured the full length of Mljet Island and swam at Saplunara, a rare sandy beach at the southern end of Mljet. The Beach Bar blasted James Blunt 'What We've Got is Gold' which was not lost on us as we sipped 'Sex on the Beach' cocktails.
Heading back to Polače we were in search of the elusive blue grotto of 'Ulysses Cave'. So many of our attempts had to be aborted and finally we realised it was a goat track that would lead us to 'Ulysses'! In the heat, we settled for a several kilometre drive down a new road that must have cost a fortune to build, leading us to Uvala Sutmiholjska, a secluded cove with quite a few swimmers enjoying the relief from the heat. We could only guess that a resort was planned for this gentle cove.
In Polače by 7pm, we returned to Trilogy for a swim at sunset and a relax before heading into town for a wild boar and gnocchi feast at Ankora Konoba. With the sun long gone to bed, we headed back to Trilogy, very satisfied with our day.