Archipel des Saintes and Guadeloupe
25 March 2016 | Archipel des Saintes and Guadeloupe
Ros Brice
After the lobster excitement had settled we sailed from Prince Rupert Bay Dominica, to
the Archipel des Saintes. We all relished the 18 NM sail in the brisk 15-20 knot conditions in slight-moderate seas.
We tried for a mooring in Anse de Bourg in front of the township Bourg des Saintes but the bay was filled with yachts and no moorings were available. There was little space left to anchor, so we sailed back through Passage de Sucre and anchored in excellent company at Petit Anse on the other side of the 20 metre high knoll, Le Pain de Sucre. I say excellent company, because there was a super yacht with gracious lines called Rising Sun, standing off the bay. By the time we anchored, it felt like we were under her bow, she was so majestic.
Once more the skipper needed to clear customs for the nation of Guadeloupe and having enjoyed our gourmet lobster lunch, we headed ashore. It was quite a distance into town and having walked up a steep hill from the beach and then along a road, we phoned for a taxi from the local hotel.
Bourg des Saintes was a lively picturesque town, again exuding the French flair. A small cruise ship was in port and the town seemed filled with tourists when we got to the wharf area. The local pharmacy signage recorded 31 degrees C, and so it wasn't long before we were in a cafe/bar seeking a cooling ale. Paul and Deb struck up a conversation with some New Yorkers from the cruise ship and as they will shortly visit NYC, they took the time to have a chat. Sue and Ros headed out into the streets and enjoyed people watching. Once the customs formalities were complete, we all wandered together through the streets, ending in a nicely developed park and playground on the foreshore. One the way back, the local Coconut Bar was pulsing with young people from a Club Med ship, also anchored off. A taxi ride back to the dinghy and we were soon back on board for dinner. The Rising Sun was now dressed in stylish lighting for the night and as we enjoyed a home cooked chicken casserole we relaxed to our own brand of Caribbean beat.
After a great snorkel next morning to the rocky shoreline around Le Pain de Sucre, Trilogy set sail for Ilets Pigeon, a 20NM sail. The forecast was for up to 35 knot winds, so with two reefs in the main, we prepared for strong winds. As it turned out, we did encounter these strong winds but only at the end of the passage. Ilets Pigeon is a divers' paradise and is a marine reserve called Réserve Cousteau. Given the conditions and limited moorings in the reserve, Trilogy anchored under Pointe Malendure, the closest anchorage to the dive site.
The wind eased by mid afternoon and we all enjoyed another great snorkel, taking in some large turtles feeding on the weedy sea bed and a myriad of brightly coloured large and small fish. The coral was also colourful, with bright yellow tubular shapes and large skeletal fan shapes taking the eye.
With the gin supplies exhausted and pina colada ingredients also ebbing, the boys opted for some potent premixed Rum Cocktail for pre dinner drinks while the girls sipped wine while preparing Country Lamb Stew in the pressure cooker. Another magnificent sunset got the cameras in overdrive and the inevitable vying for shot of the night ensued. By the time dinner was served, the wind had picked up again, rain clouds were circling and a swell had commenced, making the anchorage quite rolly. We gathered below for dinner but a bit later we were all on deck, enjoying the evening. The boys complained that the Rum Punch was far too strong and as a consequence the conversation went in quite a few hilarious circles right up until bedtime.