We left our hearts at Ile de Tintamarre, but as is the nature of cruising, there is always a moving on. We knew that the easterly winds were getting stronger over the next few days and that it was time to get back to the leeward side of St Martin, in order to clear customs, when the winds abated. Crossing the passage from Ile de Tintamarre to St- Martin was quite bouncy due to a northerly swell running.
We were tempted to anchor in Baie de Marcel again, but there was not sufficient protection from the swell, so we motored a little further to Grand Case Beach, which did offer better protection. It is an area noted for fine French restaurant dining, but you would not write home about the beach. The beach itself is a long stretch of white sand but the whole beachfront has been developed with wall to wall ugly buildings and the occasional restaurant verandah looks out over the water. The main jetty was under repair as the end section had dropped into the water and the adjacent dinghy jetty was also getting major repairs, with a cement grinder making an intense sound, which was carried on the breeze. In addition to all that noise, aircraft were approaching the French airstrip over the beach and landing just beyond the buildings. However, it was the end of the work day, and before long things calmed down.
We couldn't resist a meal ashore and we reserved a table at Bistrot Caraïbes, which offered a gourmet selection of cuisine. We could have selected lobsters fresh from the tank but we have come to know the French cook boeuf extremely well, along with lamb and all other meats and fish. We could not resist the dessert menu either, with profiteroles sandwiched around vanilla ice cream and couverture chocolate finishing the dish, a firm favourite. Creme brûlée is always selected by one of us!
Next morning it was time to catch a taxi to Marigot, to visit customs once more. While the skipper got the rubber stamps, Peter went in search of a gas bottle refill. Peter set off on foot, following various instructions to find the place. Feeling lost and frustrated when the illusive shop did not appear, Peter asked a young guy on a motor bike for directions. The guy said 'hop on and I'll take you', which was all too tempting for Peter! Peter is a motor bike rider from yesteryear, so the thrill of it is in his blood. However, if you were to pick the most dangerous thing to do on St-Martin, you would say motor bike riding, without hesitation. The roads are one narrow lane in each direction, but to bike riders, they own both sides of the two lanes and everything in between! There are no helmets or leathers worn, just a wing and a prayer, will get you there...maybe! Peter was clutching the gas bottle as a pillion passenger, hanging on to the driver, keeping his elbows and knees tightly folded in, as this guy wove in and out at speed, barely missing all manner of objects. The place was found, the gas bottle swapped for another and back on the bike for another hair-raising return trip! This guy was genuine and sincere and deserved his tip, but OMG it was high risk and Peter still has a grin from ear to ear!
We regrouped for lunch at the boulangerie, the girls having enjoyed a lovely fine art and craft gallery, which had some exceptional marquetry, water colours and unique jewellery.
We hit the wifi in the cafe will we munched on delicious salad filled baguettes and sipped on coffees.
Back on board Trilogy, it was time to move from noisy Grand Case Beach, and headed for another beautiful and quiet bay called .Friar's Bay. We swam ashore, walked the beach and sipped on a cocktail at the beach bar as the sun sank lower. The sunset was behind cloud, which is gathering more frequently now, being closer to the end of the winter season. We can feel the humidity rising and the frequency of passing showers has increased. The showers are no more than 5 minutes in duration, but the hatches need to be closed and reopened!