Baha'i de Anasco and the Mona Passage
04 May 2017 | Bahia de Anasco
Ros Brice
After the usual pleasant start to the day on board and because we did not like the look of the water for swimming in the Bahia Mayagüez, we lifted the anchor around 10:00 and motored to our most northerly anchorage, an hour away. There was only one more headland around the corner from Bahia de Anasco before the landform swung around to the north and thus the Atlantic Ocean.
Bahia de Anasco is a very pretty destination, a long wide bay that stretches all the way back to Mayagüez. At the northern end the Rincon Beach Resort is located and we anchored Trilogy a little south so that we looked at a beautiful grove of palm trees. However the lure of checking out the resort was irresistible and we snorkelled ashore to check it out. We are never sure if we are welcome at a resort, but the skipper's desire to slip into the swimming pools is the overriding driver. We washed off in the poolside shower and got into the pool for a quiet dip. There were not many guests around and we felt we were not being noticed. We discussed buying a drink at the poolside bar but the old thing about exercise got in the way. We wandered along the sandy beach first in the direction of Rincon to the north, but a private house with its own sea wall on Punta Cadena eventually stopped our progress. We turned around and walked back to the bar area of the resort, for a refreshing drink. The local beer is always acceptable, but Sue and Ros have taken a liking to lemon flavoured rum, mixed with cranberry and apple juice. The barman José was a lively character who kept us amused. We ordered a poolside lunch and just as it was served, an almighty rain cloud opened up above us and we decided to stay put, as we were all in swimwear anyway. The umbrella kept to food dry but the rivers of water from the umbrella soon had us shifting position to avoid that drowning feeling. As soon as our food was finished, we adjourned to the hot spa pool and relished the warmth of the water and cool of the intense rain. None of us have ever experienced choosing to stay in such heavy rain and I'm sure we entertained the other guests who were huddled around the bar.
The rain lasted about an hour and as it eased, we took leave of the resort and walked along the beach in the opposite direction until we came to the Coast Guard headquarters and jetty, about 2 kilometres from the resort. The US Coast Guard maintains a robust presence in the Caribbean as well as other areas, enforcing the US immigration laws. Their purpose is to stop any attempts at illegal immigration to the US. We have seen the Coast Guard just about every day during this cruise, giving us no doubt about their intense interest in local and foreign registered vessels in the Puerto Rican waters.
Back on board, we relaxed and enjoyed the rest of the day and the sun set, but as always in this part of the world, there was cloud sitting on the horizon obscuring the best of the experience. However, we were entertained by watching horses swimming into the sea right up to their necks and then trotted along the beach as the light was fading. The horses really seemed to enjoy themselves. The skipper discussed that this was to be as far north as Trilogy would cruise this season and due to the need to get fuel at Puerto Real, we would leave around 08:00 to motor before the wind got up.
Had we continued on a circumnavigation of Puerto Rico, we would have next encountered the Mona Passage. Just for completeness, I am including some notes on the Canal de la Mona, more commonly known as The Mona Passage. It is a 61 mile wide body of water that lies between the eastern shore of Hispaniola and the western shore of Puerto Rico. This passage is one of the principal routes to and from the Caribbean for both large and small vessels. There are three small islands in the passage, including Mona Island that has been visible to us over the last several days, about 65NM away. The Mona Passage has gained itself a reputation for Hourglass Shoal which causes rough water, heavy and frequent rain squalls, strong tide rips and heavy swells caused by the meeting of contrary currents. Depths of 5-20 fathoms have been reported on the Hourglass Shoal. The seas in this area are said to be a by-product of the Equatorial Current as it falls into the deep Puerto Rican Trench. The current pushes water throughout the Mona Passage and the Shoal, although deep enough for navigation, offers a barrier to the energy in the water....not a good experience when the water kicks up!