It poured all night.....and Trilogy benefitted from the thorough wash down! It took a while for the sky to clear in the morning, but after a bit of a sleep in, the clouds cleared and we got the day underway.
We motor sailed along the south coast, getting buckets of water on deck when the mainsail was hoisted. First stop was Reef Bay for a morning tea stop, 5NM away. The water was an irresistible aqua blue and we snorkelled across the bay to shallow reef and an unexpected sudden drop off. We saw a few string rays and turtles feeding. Next stop was Little Lameshur Bay where we picked up a mooring for the night. The bay water looked a cloudy dark green, which was the result of the run off of so much rain from the surrounding steep hills into the bay. We snorkelled in various directions but the best coral was out on the point. The shoreline was a bit rocky but it was worth the swim to go ashore, where there were ruins of a sugar mill house, from days long gone. Around 5pm a volunteer ranger pulled alongside to offer information on the Park and advise that we needed to pay a $26 overnight mooring fee to an honesty box system on the beaches. We had been under the impression that a sticker on the mast for 2017 exempted us, but after some discussion and checking of the fine print, we realised that the sticker referred to the BVI National Reserve and not the USVI National Park. This young volunteer had sailed his yacht from New Hampshire for the summer season and will leave this idyllic spot at the beginning of June to sail home. For his trouble, he is exempted from mooring fees.
Next morning there was an improvement in the clarity of the water but we planned to move on anyway. The weather continued to be calm after the rain with only 5 knots of wind from the SE. The ranger had told us about being permitted to tie off to dive boat moorings and he had particularly mentioned Booby Rock just off the coast about 1 NM away. There was fairly shallow reef on three sides of the rock and the water looked exquisitely clear. Below was a fantastic explosion of coral and fish, with deep canyons creating rocky overhangs for big fish to hide out. For the first time we saw a line of 14 squid moving in formation through the water....fascinating! The coral was majestic and bountiful and the long soft fronds softened the whole effect so graciously.
Back on board, it was time to move to another good snorkelling spot, Drunk Bay for a lunch stop. More snorkelling around excellent coral followed and then another short hop to Salt Pond, a beautiful looking bay with a very white sandy beach. The charts indicated that there was a narrow channel into this bay and the skipper took it very carefully up to a mooring. More snorkelling! This time to the reef we had squeezed past as we came into the bay. Another underwater garden awaited us, plentiful fish of all sizes and corals of many varieties. More squid too, 26 in a long line coloured a gorgeous bronze shade which shimmered as they moved along. The bay had many stingrays and turtles as well, which kept us totally fascinated. We often have resident large fish loitering under Trilogy's keel and it was a decent size Barracuda this time! Although they look a bit threatening, we have not really had to worry about them hanging about. We have not encountered any sharks in these waters, which is also very comforting. The fish only occasionally acknowledge your presence and only then if you disturb the water nearby.
We we very happy to relax after our active day in the water and enjoyed a GNT on the foredeck as the sun set. Chilli Con Carne was devoured for dinner and then there was another treat. We noticed a bright 'light' sparkling in the water at Trilogy's stern. It was such a startling and unexplained event that we all scampered to the foredeck to check out the bay. The skipper was sure it was phosphorescence caused by a large fish stirring up the algae in the water and when we got all Trilogy's lights out, the bay was alight for several minutes, with no moonlight yet. As fast as it started, it had gone! Nature is very special when you can live this close to it!
Next morn was Peter's birthday and so the usual onboard celebrations unfolded, starting with Happy Birthday Peter courtesy of uTube, gifts and cards, along with Prosecco and 'sailor's breakfast', a tasty cook up of eggs and whatever additions are at hand. Of course, the coffee pot was working hard too, brewing the very good Puerto Rican coffee to perfection. Peter requested to do a walk around the coast via Drunk Bay to Ram's Head Peak, which afforded wonderful views of the coast in all directions. He took Dronie2 with him and launched it from Ram's Head, piloting it back along the coast to Salt Pond Bay, where Trilogy lay on the mooring. It was wonderful when Dronie2 reappeared and everything had gone according to plan. It was really quite hot on the trail, but the ever present breeze kept us cooled. There were a lot of cacti in flower along the track, along with a few small petalled frangipani with an exquisite fragrance. This coast is pristine, unspoilt and uniquely protected for the future.
Back on board we could hardly wait to get in the water, but as National Park Rule 3 states clearly no nakedness, we did take the necessary steps before taking the plunge! It was glorious and so cooling after the heat of the day and the dripping sweat. A beer quenched the thirst and then a relax before lunch. The day slipped away before we had another long snorkel out even further to the bay entrance where we knew the reef would be rewarding...and it was! Just as exciting though were two spotted hooded stingrays that were 'flying' in unison beneath us, with their 4 metre endless tails flowing behind. One feels very insignificant in their space, when they command the stage. We swam all the way into the beach, wandered along it once more and then back to Trilogy, that had now been joined by two other good size yachts. Last night we had the bay to ourselves and we felt a bit sad that we had to share, but after all, it was Saturday night. This small bay has been such a treat! The day ended with a spicy chicken and rice meal cooked with love for the birthday boy. Peter was full of gratitude for being in such a wonderful location, sharing his special day with his lovely wife and friends.