Monday dawned both sunny and very windy with the meltemi still howling in from the NE. Trilogy's crew decided to explore the famous ruins of Delos. The local bus delivered them at speed to Mykonos town after a slalom ride along narrow roads hedged with stone walls, past bone-dry, stone strewn fields. The wind, however, was not the only problem to confront the crew. It was Monday - and on Mondays in Greece the museums and archaeological sites are closed. The ferries weren't running to Delos. A quick reordering of priorites followed - we would explore Mykonos town instead; Delos could wait for tomorrow.

The picture postcards of blinding white cube buildings with electric blue shutters hardly do justice to Mykonos. The old town is a labyrinth of alleyways built over hundreds of years to prevent the meltemi from blasting its occupants away, while also providing welcome shade from the summer sun. In ancient times the maze of alleyways also provided protection from pirates, but more recently they have made a brilliant trap for tourists, fated to wander lost in the alleyways among the designer shops, around restaurants, tavernas and cafes and past small plazas with their fuschia bouganvillea and tortured topiaried gum trees. Only by emptying their wallets can escape be made.

A good lunch at Katerinas by the sea revived the crew and enabled them to set out to "do" the historic sites of Mykonos in the heat of the afternoon, including the 14th century Paraportiani church; the Maritime Museum of the Aegean; the artist's quarter (aka Little Venice); and the art gallery - and to find some ice-cream for little Sally!

By Tuesday the meltemi had started to ease and we rose early to catch the bus back to Mykonos. We had expected to share the bus with Greeks going to work - but no! At that early hour no workers were queued to board the bus, only children on their way to school. Breakfast by the port was followed by a short ferry ride to Delos and a few hours exploring the excellent ruins.

Delos was, according to ancient Greek legend, the birthplace of Apollo (the sun-god) and his twin sister Artemis (the moon god). It had become a major religious centre by 700 BC and subsequently, due to Roman intervention against Rhodes, a major free port. Unfortunately it was also an early example of free trade failing to maintain a defensive shield (Delos had no defensive walls) and was sacked twice by its enemies. The last sacking by pirates in 69 BC was fatal - the 20,000 inhabitants were enslaved and the town pillaged - it never recovered and went into long term decline. It is now one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece - much visited by cruise ships and tourists who have escaped from Mykonos' alleyways.

That afternoon, after returning from Delos, as the meltemi had at last relented, Trilogy reluctantly left Mykonos for the nearby Island of Paros.