Anzac Cove, Les Dardanelles, Canakkale and beyond
13 July 2014 | Turkey
Ros Brice
From Anzac Cove, Trilogy sailed south along the Gallipoli Peninsula and then headed up the Dardanelles as far as Canakkale on the southern shore. The wind was on the nose for the first section and Trilogy worked hard in the southerly to make headway, with a speed of about 4.5 knots. Once we had entered the Dardanelles, the wave action settled and we were able to eat our lunch while underway. The Dardanelles is a very busy shipping lane and the skipper was vigilant as there was a constant stream of large, if not huge, cargo vessels plying the waterway. No sooner did we pass one ship than another would come hurtling past, at speeds of around 20 knots.
Once close to Canakkale, we darted astern of yet another vessel and were met by several car ferries, heading out to join the throng. We had read in the pilot that this marina was 'not for the faint hearted' and we now believed it! The marina is small and has a shallow, narrow entry. With our skills all fairly well honed, we managed to secure the stern lines with only minor issues created by the marina staff, in spite of the southerly still hitting us.
Having woken up at the pre-dawn, we were all ready for a quiet night, relaxing with our usual drinks and nibblies in the cockpit after the fairly demanding day. As the wind abated and the water became glassy, we were entertained by a beautifully fit, tall young woman doing her long routine of strenuous body stretches, on the foredeck of a nearby cruiser. We were all mesmerized by her incredible flexibility and ability to bend and twist her body with grace and elegance, totally oblivious to her observers. She must be a ballerina, we decided! We enjoyed a chicken casserole dinner and happily retired earlier than usual.
Feeling refreshed next morning we headed off in a taxi to the remains of ancient Troy a half hour ride from Canakkale. The site has been laid out well for visitors, and once more, equipped with an audio guide, we followed the trail of archeological excavations which have revealed over nine different periods of time that this city was built dating from 3000BC, destroyed and rebuilt or expanded. Troy is written about in Homer's Iliad and Odessey, but Homer is said to have never visited Troy, and there remains some uncertainty about the validity of the ruins. Many earthquakes are said to have played a role in Troy's destruction, not to mention the famous wars. According to Greek mythology, Helene, daughter of Zeus and Leva, was abducted or seducted by Paris and taken to Troy. Homer paints a poignant, lonely picture of Helen in Troy. She is filled with self-distaste and regret for what she has caused; by the end of the war, the Trojans have come to hate her. When Hector dies, she is the third mourner at his funeral, and she says that, of all the Trojans, Hector and Priam alone were always kind to her. Homer paints a poignant, lonely picture of Helen in Troy. She is filled with self-distaste and regret for what she has caused; by the end of the war, the Trojans have come to hate her. When Hector dies, she is the third mourner at his funeral, and she says that, of all the Trojans, Hector and Priam alone were always kind to her.
Canakkale is a lively city, with a summer time relaxed feeling pervading the air. We relaxed with the locals, enjoying the street life: corn sellers, live fish sellers (poor fish kept alive in a shallow dish and if they stop breathing, they are tossed back to the sea), narrow streets lined with rows of small shops selling everything from very new and trendy to very old and dusty, the promise of a Haman (Turkish bath), Turkish coffee and tea houses, and the experience of buying GNTs with not enough tonic to fill the order. A quick witted young waiter jumped on his bike to return minutes later with two tonic bottles in a supermarket bag. Next we asked for chips.....'Potate' (as in fries)? 'No, Ruffles' and again, back on his bike, the bag of chips arrived! Needless to say, he got a nice tip, and he shook hands with us all on departure with enormous gratitude.
Canakkale is where we hand Trilogy over to Rick and Susan and the crew. We gave our beautiful 'girl' a thorough clean from top to toe so that she smiled back at us. After the handover, the two crews dined together at the Truva Hotel on the waterfront, where we were now ensconced. We all enjoyed a wonderful buffet dinner with over 50 tasty dishes laid out, both hot and cold, salads, desserts and watermelon. We have had a wonderful time, full of fun and interesting experiences.
The people of Turkey are helpful and friendly, the food is fresh and tasty and the culture is rich. As I write these final words of this blog, we are on our way to Istanbul via bus and ferry transport. It is an adventure in itself! Gülu Gülu Turkey.