Trilogy: a sailing saga in three parts

19 January 2018 | Tobago Cays
16 January 2018 | Port Elizabeth Bequia
14 January 2018 | Young Island Cut St Vincent
12 January 2018 | Young Island Cut St Vincent
10 January 2018 | Marigot Bay St Lucia
06 January 2018 | Rodney Bay St Lucia
02 January 2018 | Rodney Bay St Lucia
01 January 2018 | Rodney Bay St Lucia
28 December 2017 | St Anne Martinique
27 December 2017 | St Anne Martinique
24 December 2017 | Fort de France Martinique
20 December 2017 | St Pierre Martinique
20 December 2017 | St Pierre Martinwue
20 December 2017 | St Pierre Martinique
16 December 2017 | Martinique
13 December 2017 | Pointe a Pitre Guadeloupe
13 December 2017
13 December 2017 | Guadeloupe
12 December 2017 | Pointe a Pitre Guadeloupe
08 December 2017 | Le Bourg Guadaloupe

Lobster and music - how good does it get

19 January 2018 | Tobago Cays
Myra Rowling
We had a great sail down and back to Tobago Cays. The idea was to attend the evening lobster beach BBQ held every night on these uninhabited islands. We arrived and booked in with Mr Best, the man in the dinghy, however when he came to collect us it was blowing and drizzling. In the end we had delicious barbecued lobsters and Creole accompaniments delivered to our boat. Talk about Uber Eats! It certainly was the best lobster I have eaten.

Back to Bequia for the annual Bequia four day music festival which we have been lucky enough to stumble across. The festival started as a Blues festival in nearby Mustique, but has been coming to Bequia for 15 years as well. (There is photo in the pilot guide of Mick Jagger performing at one such festival in Mustique.) We started Thursday night with the Elite Steel Band in the sand-floored Frangipani Bar. There are 4 women and 9 men in the band, and the big advantage of steel bands, we discovered watching it, is that the musicians can dance as well as play. There was a good crowd consisting mainly of older tourists and yachties with removed inhibitions. It is a great sound and great entertainment. At one stage one of the musician’s little boys danced around amongst the many steel drums. As his head only came up to the top of the drums, I imagine his hearing was slightly affected in the time it took for his mum and dad to remove him.

And Steve won two hearts at dinner. The restaurant’s two cats, after begging tuna from me, sat on Steve’s lap purring.

Beautiful Bequia

16 January 2018 | Port Elizabeth Bequia
Myra Rowling
A short sail, with a downpour, to beautiful Bequia. Bequia is the epitome of a tropical island, with golden beaches, emerald green foliage, and lots of dinghy docks, restaurants and bars. We anchored near Port Elizabeth, the little capital, and walked along the curve of Admiralty Bay. It was a lovely walk, including along the Princess Margaret Trail and lunch at Princess Margaret beach. In 1958 the princess swam there and it was promptly renamed after her. Lots of English visitors were copying her and revelling in the sun, sand and sea. A swim back on the boat and then dinner - on the first night at Frangipani and the second at the Fig Tree. John practised by having lobster, as we planned to sail the next day to Tobago Cays and go to a lobster BBQ on the beach.

The other good thing about Bequia is that the sun showers have gone.

Enjoying St Vincent

14 January 2018 | Young Island Cut St Vincent
Myra Rowling
St Vincent has a slightly threatening air to paradise. Its history could explain it. In 1675 the local Caribs found a Dutch boatload of African slaves wrecked on their island. They welcomed them and intermarried, their progeny being called the Black Caribs. Trouble eventually developed and the Black Caribs took over the island from the original Caribs and then fought against British settlement. They supported the French side during the 18th century, but when the French ceded the island to Britain under the Treaty of Versailles (of 1783, not 1919) they continued to fight the British in what were called the Carib Wars. They were defeated in 1797 and most were deported to Honduras. The British finally gave them independence in 1979. Not the sort of history that would make you happy.

There is only one complaint about these beautiful Caribbean islands - it rains every day. Not heavy enough to spoil activities, but heavy enough to mean we open and close the hatches many times day and night. We thought it would stop as we moved away from the wet season, but in St Lucia and St Vincent it seems to have increased. The bright side is lots of rainbows.

John and Steve climbed the island called Fort Duvernette, near our mooring spot. The British soldiers manage to get cannon up its precipitous cliffs and then placed them pointing out to sea, aimed against the French, and inland against the Black Caribs.

We had a lovely sundowner on Young Island at the resort, then repaired in more rain to dinner on board.

To St Vincent and the Grenadines with Steve

12 January 2018 | Young Island Cut St Vincent
Myra Rowling
We had a great sail to St Vincent. We left about 7am and arrived in the Young Island
Cut and the Blue Lagoon about 3pm. The Fates turned on a perfect day for Steve’s first sail. The sky and water were blue, flying fish were everywhere, St Lucia and St Vincent provided lovely views as we sailed by, and Trilogy enjoyed the reach, with Steve getting her up to 10.5 knots. And importantly for me, the water was relatively calm, so I arrived feeling hale, hearty and hungry,

The mooring is an attractive beach side spot, again with surrounding restaurants that you can dinghy up to (but it would be impossible to beat Marigot Bay). According to the pilot, security is an issue so we will have to be watchful, especially as Trilogy is within swimming distance of the beach. Off to the French Verandah for dinner.

What a find!

10 January 2018 | Marigot Bay St Lucia
Myra Rowling
Marigot Bay is the prettiest of spots- naturally attractive, and a very attractive luxury development as well. We saw it from the hill behind on our road tour, and thought we must come - good decision. All the restaurants are waterside with dinghy docks (one is called Doolittle’s as Dr Doolittle was filmed here). The marina is a luxury hotel, with a waterfall swimming pool, spa, restaurants, bars. As the photo shows, you dinghy right up to it, or you can dock your boat at it. The rich and famous come here for a break in the luxury rooms after they tire of their luxury yachts. However, it is hard to beat our free anchoring spot for beauty.

After sampling three of the restaurants, we were joined by a jet lagged Steve who came via LA and San Fran. Now to head out on the last part of our Caribbean adventure.

Leaving with the World ARC

06 January 2018 | Rodney Bay St Lucia
Myra Rowling
We did a tour of the island with Eddie, the LLL's most competent and pleasant driver. St Lucia is an interesting place. It has changed hands between the French and English 14 times, but who is counting. The local creole language naturally includes both French and English - reminds me of the poor Vanuatuans. There were a wartime US naval base and an air base here, the UK gave it independence in 1979, and now the Chinese have built an Olympic sports stadium for St Lucia. We saw the volcano, the old British/French Fort Charlotte where the Irish Inniskilling Fusiliers beat the French and locals in 1796, the Pitons (as in the photo taken into the sun), the gardens, the waterfall - all starting now to be a bit difficult to differentiate in memory one tropical island from the other.

The island's other claim to fame is that Josephine Bonaparte lived here as well. Her family had sugar plantations in both Martinique and St Lucia. Their plantation here was called Malmaison, which explains the name of her house and land outside of Paris.

We left amidst the World Atlantic Rally departure, so one of 27 boats exiting the marina. I was rather pleased we weren't joining them on their trip across the Pacific and Indian Oceans. They will arrive in Mackay in July! The Swedes next to us on Bijou are very excited at the prospect.
Vessel Name: Trilogy
Vessel Make/Model: Beneteau Oceanis 54
Hailing Port: Sydney, Australia
Crew: Garth & Ros Brice; John & Myra Rowling; Steven Ring
About: The crew all live in Canberra, Australia and have raced and cruised together in the Canberra Ocean Racing Club.
Extra: Trilogy cruised through the Mediterranean for four seasons before crossing the Atlantic with the ARC to the Caribbean. Following three seasons in the Caribbean the intention is to sail back across the Atlantic in 2018 and continue cruising in the Med.
Trilogy's Photos - Sigacik, Ionian Coast
Photos 1 to 8 of 8 | Main
Jack with Turkish haircut
Skipper and his crew at Teos with ancient olive tree
Ancient road leading from harbour to theatre at Teos
Teos theatre ruins
Taking a break at the Teos theatre
View over valley from Teos ruins
Kat making friends with donkey