11/18/2009, Port Dickson
18th November 2009
Motoring up the Malacca Strait.
We have traveled quite a distance since my last blog. Motoring along the calm waters of the Malacca Strait seems a life time away from rafting in Borneo. We left Kota Kinabalu with the intention of stopping at Labuan, a duty free island, to stock up with beer and then next stop was to be the outskirts of Singapore. 750 challenging miles during the transition from SW to NE monsoon when the wind changes daily from strong SW head winds to light NE winds. The Malaysian marine forecast is quite unreliable and most days it is completely wrong. Cruising plans change regularly, some times on a whim of eating at a recommended restaurant and quite often because the wind is in the wrong direction for comfortable sailing.
Slamming into a South westerly chop with a building wind and rain clouds looming, a change of plan was required. Only a few hours out a of Labuan, on the coast of Brunei, we looked on our chart and realized we were very close to a nice comfortable anchorage, Prince Jeffery's anchorage or the Sultans Wall. Prince Jeffery is a younger brother of the Sultan of Brunei, the disgraced, banned from Brunei brother. His over spending on many things was I think the reason for being banned from his own country and this anchorage alone must have cost millions to build. Two long arms of high rock wall curve out from the coast, each about 1 mile or more long, to enclose a man made island and some half built wharfs. The story we heard was that the Prince needed an anchorage for his super yacht. The only yachts that go there are cruisers looking for a safe haven on the Brunei coast and only for a night or two as shore visits are not permitted. The wall and island have been very well made. I think who ever planned this anchorage should go and advise the Malaysians how to build marinas that don't fall to bits within months of being built. Thanks to the Prince we had a calm night and set off the next morning once again for Singapore.
The wind died completely, so after motoring several hours we decided to pull into another Brunei port, Kuala Belait. This is a river anchorage and after waiting for a big tug and barge to leave the river we motored up stream to the Kuala Belait Yacht club. Another calm night, tucked up close to the river bank away from the constant movements of large oil rig servicing vessels then back out to decide whether Singapore would be the destination of choice the next day. South westerlies again, with heavy rain, Miri Marina was a tempting few miles off our rhumb line and we would be in by lunch time. We ended up staying 3 nights in Miri until the weather looked good for a whole week ahead. Four days to the out skirts of Singapore, 2 days sailing and 2 days motoring a good trip. The North East monsoon had at last won the transition battle. We had the company of two other boats, Far Niente and Seafari , for the trip across. When I say company we couldn't see each other but talked each morning on the radio checking on each others position and progress.
The affects of the world wide recession on the shipping industry is very obvious in the Singapore strait region. Hundreds of anchored ships, from monster tankers to small cruise liners, clutter the Singapore Strait and spill out into the Sth China sea and for several miles into the Malacca strait. When we crossed to Singapore from Indonesia in 2007 transiting ships were about 12 minutes apart this time the gaps between ships seemed much longer. We crossed the shipping lanes, this time, just as we approached the southern tip of Malaysia and entered the straits along side the incoming ships. A reasonably stress free entry, the biggest problem was that we were pushing a strong current and chasing a sinking sun so we pulled off to the side to anchor. We found a spot out of the way just inside some anchored barges and oil rigs, all looking like they hadn't worked in a while. Looking across to Indonesia all we could see was a mass of lights from wall to wall anchored ships. The next morning at day break we started to wind our way through the anchored and moving ships for the trip around to Dang Bay Marina in the Johor Strait. The Danga Bay Marina is well situated for easy access to Singapore, its Malaysian so no clearing in and out as well as the added incentive of being free until the New Year. The early start also gave us a huge lift with the tide, scooting through Singapore waters with up to 3knots of current with us a lot of the way.
On the corner of Johor strait and Singapore, tugs were weaving their way through anchored ships, towing sand laden barges to a huge area of reclamation. Singapore is adding more country to its country. A new Port area seems to be being built although with so many redundant ships in the area I am not sure that there is a need for it. I guess they hope the world economy will have bounced back by the time the area is finished. Once past the reclamation work the trip up the straits is very pleasant and almost rural considering Singapore is just over the fence and the large city of Johor Bahru is not far away.
The odd rock or beacon meant we occasionally strayed towards the Singapore side of the narrow Johor Strait and when we did a little blue Singapore patrol boat buzzed towards us. The huge skull and cross bones danger signs and barbed wire security fence on the Singapore shore would deter even the most desperate Singapore wannabe. When we did go to Singas for the day we went through the lovely new Malaysian facility at Johor Bahru , a much more comfortable way than over the fence and through an Army firing range!
Pete and Sue from Koru were at Danga, we hadn't seen them since Langkawi early last year, we had a lovely catch up with them. We also got a new bimini cover for our aft deck, stocked up on fuel filters as well as groceries. After 9 days we said fare well to Koru, not sure when we will see them next as they are off to Borneo, Philipines and back to Aus. On this trip we've been saying a lot of goodbyes to friends going the opposite way to us but we continue to meet new people and there are still many people to catch up with in Langkawi and to travel with next year. As we say..'that's cruising".
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10/23/2009, Kota Kinabalu Borneo
White water rafting in Borneo
23 October 2009
"Paddle Harder, Paddle harder, PADDLE HARDER!" WHOOMF, a wave of brown water flipped over our raft and tossed us all into the swirling brown water. The thing I most dreaded happened, complete roll over. Waves of water swishing over me until the guides righted the raft and hauled me back in. The river is chocolate coloured but sure didn't taste like chocolate.
We had successfully negotiated several rapids, got soaking wet with waves dumping in the raft, slipped and slid about on the tubes. We thought we had it sorted until the rapid named Cobra turned on us and bit us hard.. The men in the raft declared at the end of the day that the turnover had made their day. The other rafts had stayed up right, Alan claimed that they hadn't had the full experience. . I could have done with out it! But I guess that's the risks or enjoyment of rafting.
On the recommendation of Tom and Raina a group of us went rafting yesterday, it had been so good they said, they came again for a second tangle with the rapids. The day was one of several parts each one as interesting as the next, although the rafting was of course the highlight. The day started with a 3 hour drive up and over the Crocker mountain range through towns and rainforest, with views down the coast back to KK and south towards Labuan. The road is so steep in parts, a 19deg incline at times, the mini van came to near stop in parts, we thought we might have to get out and push. The roadside cafe where we stopped for morning tea had a couple of monkeys in a small cage, they should have been out swinging amongst the branches of the fruit laden rambutan trees instead of having the rambutans pushed through the bars for them to eat.
We left the monkeys plenty of fruit then we travelled on to Tenom where we had a roti snack and clambered on to a 1968 vintage train for the hour ride to the start of the River Junkies white water rafting adventure.
The old narrow gauge,2 carriage train rattled and swayed along the track, the river on one side and rainforest hills on the other. We shared the train with the locals returning home after a morning in town. The rafters always use this train so the locals should be used to sharing with tourists but we still got inquisitive looks. They perhaps are not used to seeing a bunch of oldies going rafting. We often get asked our age, I still haven't gotten used to someone coming straight out and asking me my age, we have been taught its polite not to ask. But it doesn't matter especially when we get comments like yesterday, "oh you must be very strong" !!!
The train came to a stop at the rafting base, the locals got out too. The railway couldn't go any further as it is still being restored. But the locals had small flat trolleys which ran on the railway, they loaded children and shopping on the flat bed trolleys and then pushed themselves with long poles off down the railway disappearing into the rainforest towards their homes. The photographer for River Junkies did the same thing, hurtling along the track to get to good photo spots before we got there. The big chilli bin tied to his trolley contained our halfway snack of watermelon, and water.
Our "packed lunch", as part of the days package was KFC from Tenom. It seemed a little out of place eating KFC in the middle of the Borneo rainforest. Fortified by chicken, trussed up in helmet and lifejacket we climbed into our rafts and set off in a gentle current. We all got into the water to experience first hand the current and our lifejackets before we swirled off into some faster rapids.
We knew the up coming rapid would be a challenge when the guide said which side of the river to swim to if we got tossed out. Luckily the raft was right next to me when we did get tossed and I managed to stay near it as the guides righted it. Alan and two others floated off down the rapid to be picked up by the other rafts. Once we were all back aboard we managed to mainly stay in the raft except for the odd time when the guide said it was ok to get out and drift a little with the current.
At the half way point we pulled into the bank where the clean cold water of a mountain stream disappeared into the muddy river. The chilli bin passed down from the railway track and we had nice fresh watermelon and cakes for afternoon tea. Big Mumma and several other rapids later, 20 kms since we were dry and it was all over, well not quite. We transferred into narrow wooden boats and negotiated our way through a few more rapids this time with outboard motor not paddles. Another train, a little better condition this time but still 60s vintage. We rattled and lurched our way out through the diminishing rainforest, to urban surroundings. The mini van met us and it was back to KK on a modern smooth highway
A Chinese dinner at Papar, which included the most delicious fresh made dumplings then we were dropped back at the Marina, 12 hours after the adventure had begun. I have a few sore muscles today, Alan would love to do it again but once is probably enough for me. The best part for me was when I stopped paddling and looked around me at the steep green hills and realised we were in the middle of a Borneo jungle. No head hunters or orang-utan in sight but still very special.
www.river-junkie.com
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10/23/2009, Kota Kinabalu
Borneo Race week
Photo of Uteikah III from Australia and in distance Pateke from NZ during Labuan to KK race.
Borneo race week , fun, friendly and frustrating. After slamming into south westerlies to get to Miri from Kota Kinabalu (KK) the wind changed to light north easterlies, head winds all the way back to KK. There were 5 divisions, IRC the multi crewed racers, multi hulls, Cruiser racers and 2 cruising divisions. We were in the cruiser racer division and although as with the other cruising divisions we could use our motor, we were competing with yachts half our weight who didn't need to motor in the light head winds. All were penalised for the amount of time motored. The 25knot winds of the previous week had deserted us so we motored 9 hours on the first 105 mile race just to finish within the 26 hour time limit. We managed to limit our motoring to just less than 2 hours on the 65 mile race, Labuan to Kota Kinabalu. The round the buoys racing in KK was a nice jaunt in the sun for us, in light winds, at the tail end of our division. Alan got his thrills on the starts and we managed to be competitive across the start line but it was down hill from there. In spite of our results we had fun and enjoyed the perks of racing in the Borneo Cup race week. For cruising yachts in this part of Borneo the race week is a must do, next year they hope to have Brunei included in the racing programme which will add to the enjoyment of the week.
The night we arrived in Miri we were pleased to be snugly tied to the marina as the wind howled through the marina peaking at 48 knots. The wind was making the most of its last appearance before it disappeared over the horizon for a weeks holiday, just when we needed it. Still the nights in 5 star luxury hotels here in KK and Miri along with the sumptuous dinners, free marina berths , tours and socialising with old and new friends more than made up for the racing frustrations. The 1000MYR($NZ430) payment to each competing yacht also helped ease the racing frustrations. We did have a free night on the marina at Labuan but that was at our own risk. The marina there is in the process of breaking up. 30 million MYR spent on a poorly designed marina which in less than 4 years is self destructing. Some patching up is being done but the real problem of no flexi joints combined with wash from ferries and other boats is not being addressed. The modern marina building has never been used. Such a waste of money. There are many Malaysians here who want to develop the marine industry but do not seem to consult good experts. The marina at Miri is good once you can find the entrance, don't come at night there are no lights, leading marks or beacons of any sort on the entry sea walls. We had been warned about the depth in the inner channel so when our depth alarm beeped for 30metres or so we weren't too worried. The day we arrived the wind was pushing waves onto the sea wall, all we could see was white water, no break in the sea wall. We radioed up our friend Tom on Matariki, ( no marina office), " Where do we get into this marina?" . The beach seemed only metres away. .."See the big sea horse statue on the sea wall, head for that , you will see the entrance, turn sharply to port and you will be inside the wall." We followed the instructions and suddenly we were in calm water.
The marina here at Sutera harbour in KK is a different matter altogether, well built, marked and run. Best of all it is part of a 5 star resort whose facilities we have been enjoying for a week or so. As part of the race incentives we enjoyed 2 nights in the Sutera Pacific Hotel. Air conditioning heaven. The final prize giving was held on the covered tennis courts which had been transformed into a glamorous dining room for the event. Going from a 5 star hotel room to the prize giving in our glad rags , squeaky clean from long hot showers, up to date with BBC world news, rested after an afternoon snooze on a large soft bed we thought, just for a minute or two that we could get used to this life. But no chance it was back to the boat the next morning.
Over the next few days the cruising boats gradually sailed off, some towards the Philippines, others towards Singapore and Thailand. We have a few boat jobs to do and then we will be following the ones towards Singapore. On the third attempt we finally found our parcel containing our water pump at the Post office. On that visit to the PO we traipsed up and down stairs, through back rooms until we arrived at a parcel room where we found someone who, after a proper look came back with our parcel. So that will be put in place now that Alan has recovered from a 3 day virus and we have had a day off being tossed about on a Borneo river( see next post). The anchor chain has been regalvanised and is back looking very shiny in the anchor locker. The SW winds are starting to be less dominant as the season changes so its nearly time to visit the market and provision for the 750 mile hop across the South China sea to the Singapore strait.
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