Tumultuous Uproar

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Dancing around Matthew

01 October 2016
The wind blew the rain sideways but we still made it to Tobago. Tobago was one of the three choices we discussed to keep boat and crew safe for the upcoming tropical storm, Matthew.

Weather information is abundant via internet, local cruiser's broadcasts and via SSB radio from Chris Parker. Days in advance we knew we were in for a good one. Tropical waves start off the Sahara Desert and work their way across the Atlantic. This one was named Invest 97, soon to become Matthew. Prediction weather models gave various scenerios as to where and how strong Matthew would affect the Caribbean. Chris Parker does an expert job of distilling the information and giving his prediction.

We were in Carriacou, Grenada and Matthew was to pass north of us. How far north was a question and how bad it would get in Carriacou was not certain. What was certain was that wind would clock to the west and blow hard. Almost all Caribbean harbors are open to the west and could get dangerous.

Our three options were to tie up in the Tyrrel Bay Mangroves, run for Grenada and go into a well protected hurricane hole or go further south to Tobago where the effects of Matthew would certainly be less. The storm winds were predicted to start Wednesday morning, September 28th, Lisa's birthday.

On Monday, most of the 60 boats in Tyrrel Bay were heading for the mangroves. There they sweltered and swatted mosquitos. We were also worried about Uproar's 8' keel in the mangroves. Most boats were aground and we didn't want to overstress our keel/hull joint.

Keith and Linda on Euan Mara were firm in their decision to go to Tobago. We had never been there so that was our choice. Jim Leguizamon, from California was sailing with us for two weeks so we had three hands for the 100 mile passage to Tobago. Winds were also expected to shift from the east trade winds to NE which would help us make the SE course to Tobago.

Euan Mara left mid-morning on Tuesday. We figured if we left at 4:00pm and did our usual 7 knots, we would get in to Tobago early Wednesday morning just before the storm effects set up shop. We planned to sail to Scarborough, the capitol and an anchorage protected from the predicted west winds.

The first half of the trip was ideal sailing conditions. Winds were on the beam at about 12 knots. We were sailing along beautifully in relatively flat seas. Lisa caught a tuna and a barracuda! Unfortunately, I was woken up to clean the fish.

Jim and I were sailing along at night and saw distant lightening. I explained to Jim that tropical squalls aren't that severe. You get a lot of rain for a few minutes and 5 to 10 knots more wind. When the squall got to us, it wasn't even close to the one I described. We got 30+ knots of wind and sideways rain. Seas built up but not that much. It lasted for about 1/2 hour! We reefed the new main and with our small #3 jib we were sailing along well and fast. We hit 10 knots a few times!

The squalls ended and I took an off watch. Then the wind quit. Nothing is more annoying than slapping sails in no wind and swells. Lisa and Jim ended up taking the sails down and starting the engine. Lisa called down, "Russ, something doesn't sound right with the engine." The rule is if there is any question, to wake me up right away. Good thing she did, there was no cooling water coming out. Lisa saved us an overheated engine. Back up went the sails and I could not get back to sleep, thinking about the engine, etc.

The wind, what little there was went north. Weather was predicted to back but not this early. We jibed as the wind backed to the NW and increased. Soon we were on course to Tobago, moving well in a freakish west wind. We rounded the lee of Tobago and I went to work on the engine in the flatter water. The impeller was shredded and I replaced it. The engine ran fine but we now had good wind to continue. We had just caught up with Euan Mara and sailed together into Scarborough and anchored. Jim and I went ashore to clear immigration and customs while Lisa rested. It was her birthday!

We planned on taking her to dinner but as we were getting into the dinghy, the skies opened up. It rained hard all night. Good thing we didn't make it ashore.

That night was one of the most rolly we have ever spent at anchor. Matthew was sucking the wind hard out of the south straight into Scarborough Harbor. Welcome to cruising, Jim.

Thursday morning we couldn't wait to get out of there and sail to Store Bay. Euan Mara lost their steering cable en route but Keith used his autopilot to safely get to the anchorage. He readily fixed it after anchoring. Store Bay is beautiful and so is Tobago. We have had a few relaxing days and plan to stay here awhile.

So what did we do wrong and what did we do right? We were right to head south to avoid the worst of the storm. We did not leave early enough but strategically waited for the NE wind. We didn't count on the pre-frontal squalls that often accompany tropical storms. This is something we could have learned if we received a current briefing before leaving Tyrrel Bay. I'm glad we didn't spend three nights in the mangroves with our cruising friends and the mosquitos.

We are loving Tobago. This is the vacation spot for Trinidad. There are a lot of restaurants and infrastructure here. A bus to Scarborough from Store Bay is $.30. Prices for everything are low here. Diesel is about $1/gallon. Too bad our tank is almost full. We will learn more about this unexpected destination and are glad we came here.

A side bonus is that we are now quite far east in the Caribbean. Our next destination will probably be Barbados. Barbados sits alone, about 80 miles east of the Caribbean chain. Cruisers seldom visit here as the 80 mile beat into the trade winds can be brutal. We will have a 135 mile close reach to get there from Tobago.

I love the fact that the cruising itinerary is fluid. A week ago we had no idea we would visit Tobago or Barbados. Who knows where we will go from there? One thing for sure, we will look for settled weather for our next passage.
Comments
Vessel Name: Tumultuous Uproar
Vessel Make/Model: Beneteau 42s7
Hailing Port: Milwaukee, WI
Crew: Popeye (Russ Whitford)
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