Unbelievably, we're still in Majuro, seven months after arriving here, and don't know when we might depart. I've been woefully deficient in adding to the blog, partly because this feels so like being "home" that it almost doesn't seem like cruising, which is what the blog is all about. (I have added lots of new albums of pictures to the photo gallery over the last few months, so do take a look there.) We'd expected to be here in the Marshalls only 4 months or so, but with one thing and another, the time has stretched on and on. Fortunately, it's been a very pleasant place to be, with lots of great friends old and new, and lots going on.

The main reason for delay has been our decision to re-rig the boat here, which means replacing the wire and many of the fittings which hold the mast up. The boat is 10 years old, and it is thought to be prudent to replace the standing rigging after 10 years. We had one shroud fitting fail last summer in French Polynesia, which served as a reminder of the importance of replacing important gear before it has a chance to fail. We've heard of several boats which have had serious rigging failures, including some good friends of ours here who lost their mast a few months ago, and it is definitely an experience we would prefer to avoid.

We had originally planned to do the complete re-rig in New Zealand this coming winter, but then had second thoughts about sailing to NZ this year. We also discovered that we could re-rig here, with the help of Ted, a very experienced boat builder who is here on another yacht, and who works very reasonably. So then our plan changed to ordering all the needed bits and pieces to be delivered to be shipped here this summer, and we would do the work after returning here next fall after a summer in Fiji and Tonga. When up the mast measuring for the order, Bryan discovered that another shroud was showing serious signs of wear, and we decided we'd go ahead and expedite the order and re-rig now. Unfortunately, the order didn't get shipped as quickly as we'd hoped, and when it arrived was not completely right, necessitating a second order which we're awaiting now. In the meantime, Bryan and Ted have removed the forestay and have it ready to go back up as soon as the proper new fitting arrived (we have an inner forestay and a halyard doing duty in the meantime) and have replaced the back stay. The shrouds (the wires on the sides of the mast) are awaiting fittings, but should go pretty quickly once the right sized parts arrive.

Our plan to spend the summer in Fiji is now seriously in doubt. Fiji, which has had 3 coups in the last 10 years, and currently has a government that is making new rules right and left making cruising there more difficult. The latest rule is that a boat can only stay for a maximum of 9 months before paying to import the boat, for 27% of the value of the boat as determined by their surveyor plus 12.5% VAT. We don't have a problem with limiting our stay to 9 months or less, but they further decided that once a boat has entered, even if they've only stayed for one week, they cannot come back into Fiji after they leave until at least 9 months have elapsed without paying the import duty. Since we're so delayed leaving here, if we did go to Fiji this summer, we'd only be able to stay a short time before returning here for the winter. Our insurance doesn't allow us to stay in Fiji or anywhere in that neighborhood through the winter as it is cyclone season there. Our best options are returning here, or going to NZ, and we had decided to spend another winter here as we've quite enjoyed it and want to spend more time exploring the outer islands here. Fiji is a wonderful cruising ground, and really deserves several months to properly experience, so it just doesn't make sense to go there this year when we'd only be able to stay a short time, and then wouldn't be able to go back there next year. So.... it looks like this summer will be spent seeing the Marshalls and maybe more of Kiribati which is just to the south and saving Fiji for next summer.

In these days of rising oil prices and falling dollar, Majuro is more attractive as a place to hang out than many others in the Pacific. The currency here is the US dollar, the mail is US Postal Service, and Americans are welcome. Fortunately, we make our own water and power on the boat, although at least some of it is dependant on diesel power, and diesel here is over $5/gallon and rising monthly. But we feel far luckier than folks ashore here - electric rates have gone up over 40% in the last year, and it now costs over $14/month to burn one 100 watt light bulb for 12 hours/day! The rising oil prices have caused many other prices to rise, because they affect shipping costs and virtually everything else. Add that to the rising prices in food caused by worldwide shortages, and these are very tough times for the islanders. Many have elected to give up on electricity all together, or to severely limit their consumption of it, and their already poor diets are likely to suffer as well. While we are experiencing higher prices in the grocery store, the stories we hear about prices in NZ, Australia and the French islands, where currency exchange is a big factor, make us grateful that we do not have to pay much more.