Monday 17th March 2008
En route Malapascua to Gigante Islands
Philippines

Malapascua (pronounced Malapasqua) is everything a yachtie or beach bum looks for. It has that idyllic island feel - no cars, friendly locals, small intimate beach bars and restaurants where you sit with your feet in the sand watching the bangkas (local fishing boats) and canoes in clear aquamarine waters. Small brown sometimes naked children frolic in the white sand splashing and laughing. A shy smiling waitress brings you a cold beer for 50 pesos (A$1) and the best Italian food outside Italy for $5.

As we were drawn into the relaxed ambience of the island we began talking to a local Italian who recommended diving to see the thresher sharks. We went to the dive centre behind the Italian restaurant and booked a dive for the following morning. As we had to be ready by 5.30am we asked if they could pick us up from our boat anchored in the bay on the other side of the island. 'No problem'says the Swiss French speaking dive instructor. Normally to go to and fro from our boat into the little town we hitch ride on a motor bike along the path for 20pesos (50c).

We had trouble with our phone alarms and I calculated mine incorrectly form Aussie time with it going off at 1am! Anyway we got up at 5am had our coffee fix watching the sunrise and waited for the boat. The dive people use big bangkas and this particular bangka driver executed a perfect stop coming alongside Valiam without its long white trimaran tentacles touching her hull.

When we got to the dive spot for the thresher sharks out at sea there were already at least 6 diving boats out there. When Linda finally managed to get all the gear on and fall backwards in the water (sore back again) she had difficulty getting down. Wearing a full wetsuit (not short ones), not enough weights and a fully inflated BCD made it very slow work trying to get down. The dive master who did 't want the responsibility looking after me suggested I try another day with less people. Feeling rejected I clambered back on board. However a very nice German woman who had come along for the ride befriended me and made me feel better. Bill and the other divers emerged from the sea and reported that there were no sharks down there. C'est la vie! Sabina has a lively personality and dreams of quitting her job as a doctor in a German hospital to live on a boat and take divers to exotic places. She has been coming to Malapascua for 4 years and has been on the island for several months taking leave from her job. She is caretaking the White Sands cottages mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide. After the diving expedition the dive boat dropped us back to Valiam. We invited Sabina to come back with us. She exclaimed her delight and appreciation of Valiam's comforts including the stove top espresso machine. The number of times I could have sold it for a profit! (I knew I should brought a shipment with me!)

Bill rowed us back to the closest little beach and decided he would row all the way around to the main beach. Sabina and I took a 'hobble hobble' each (motorbike) after she shouted to some locals 'dos hobble hobble!' and 2 turned up within minutes. The ride on narrow paths up over hills and through the village is very picturesque. The island has 3000 people living on it mostly in little shanty houses. I noticed quite a few pigs being fattened up as well as magnificent roosters each tied by the leg to a roost. The roosters are being prepared for cock fighting and with Holy week beginning today betting will begin in earnest. At one o'clock Sabina had arranged for a massage lady to come so she invited me to be at her bungalow also to repair my back.

At 1pm I arrived by 'hobble hobble' from the boat and beach around the corner. Sabina was having her long hair washed and braided by Bergie as well as her toenails done. Amie arrived to give me my massage. The little bungalows ('nipas') at White Sands are idyllic and made of thatching. Whilst I lay in the cool darkness listening to the ocean gently lapping the shore Amie massaged me for 2 hours. Bliss! I did hear the rain dripping on the roof but apparently it was quite a squall whilst I was in there! Feeling totally relaxed and my back somewhat less painful I emerged covered in coconut oil and sat with the 'girls' to gossip. (massage 300 pesos = A$8, toenails 100 pesos =A$2.50)

The previous day Bill bought me some beautiful pink cultured pearls from a beach vendor. They are non perfect ones probably rejects from the nearby pearl farms but beautiful nonetheless. Thirty years of marriage is pearls so now I have my pearls! Amie commented on my pearls saying in a whisper that the people who sold them to me are Muslims without soul. Amie is deeply religious and as a practising Catholic felt that the pearl sellers were bad because the clasps etc joining the pearls go rusty. She sees herself as 'God's instrument' and accepts her calling as a healer.

After having a lovely shower in Sabinas bungalow and having my toenails painted metallic green it was time for Bill to join us for a sunset drink on the beach at 'La Dolvitas'. Sabina took us around some of her favourite haunts including 'Josephine's'. Josephines is a wooden picnic bench on the beach with a little shack behind it from where pretty smiling Josephine serves drinks to a mottley assortment of foreigners. Several older men have a young Philippino girlfriend. This is such a common practice in the Philippines that on many occasions the local girls I talk to say they have a sister/aunt/cousin who is married to an Australian.

We are now sailing beautifully towards the Gigante Islands. I am not sure where we will be anchoring but the pilot book gives a position for the Gigantes as 11.36N 123.21 E if you are looking on Google Earth. It's nice to have the peace and quiet of sailing after each socializing experience in each place we visit. We always exchange addresses with people we meet and do hope that one day we will meet again. In some ways it helps me be less homesick for my family and friends. Every now and again I feel a pang of homesickness and feel surprised when I realize it's only been 4 weeks since we left Australia after our visit. We have been in the Philippines 17 days now so I guess we need to keep going in the direction of Malaysia and Thailand if we are to make the Red Sea this season.

It's a beautiful day - blue skies, flat seas and a gentle breeze. A number of ships and bangkas continually pass us on this route so we have to keep continual watch. We are feeling a little weary and it has nothing to do with the happy hour last night where we had several banana rums etc! Thank you to those who send us an occasional email. It's fantastic to hear from you out here and find out any news. We now know that Bob Abbott is the Mayor of the newly amalgamated Sunshine Coast. Apart from that we haven't heard any other news. I always respond to your emails individually so if you have any comments or questions we would love to hear them.

All well on board Valiam
Linda and the captain

Friday 14th March 2008
Malapascua Island
Philippines
Position : 11.30.36 N 124.06.66 E

A fishing boat with it's 'white tentacles' either side motored by just as the sun - a big orange ball melted into the sea. We were rewarded after an 11 hour day of motoring with a magnificent sunset just after we dropped the anchor in a small bay on the northwestern side of the island. The pilot book recommended to anchor in 6 metres of water SW of the light house which is what we did. A large residence built on rocks and limestone is directly opposite us on the beach of the smaller bay just south of where several fishing boats are anchored. The Lonely Planet guide although recent hasn't kept up with the description of the extra development on the island. Rather than one or two thatched roofed huts several concrete resorts were obvious on the main beach as we came towards the island. There seem to be many dive boats in the style of the fishing boats anchored on the main beach as well. Where we are presently anchored seems more deserted although we did witness a group of people having a party of sorts sitting on the beach. There are reputably no cars on the island but we did see some motor bikes wizzing by on the tracks behind the beach.

Valiam is rolling gently protected from the northerly wind. There was some lightening in the distance and we do hope we wont be woken by a storm during the night. Tomorrow we will explore the island and then head off again most probably the following day for the Gigantes islands.

Tonight we enjoyed a meal cooked on board for a change - pork chops, cabbage and broccoli. For lunch we had an oven warmed baguette with camembert cheese, lettuce and tomato. It is difficult to buy this type of food but the supermarket at the Marina Mall across from the Cebu yacht club was well stocked. We have a few more supplies of non Asian food to keep us going for a while. No fish caught again today. We are beginning to wonder whether Dennis' recommended lures from Palau are jinxed.