11 December 2007
New Ireland PNG
Irish Cove
From Alan Lucas "Cruising Papua New Guinea" given to Bill Christmas 1981 - yes we are actually using it!
"English and Irish Cove: These two anchorages have a rather romantic history as they were the chosen site for the Utopea of the Marquis de Rays who, in the 1870's distributed prospectuses throughout Western Europe advertising it as already settled and established land of promise. He induced 3000 shareholders to part with 300,000 pounds sterling, many of who sold their properties, presuming their share to be protected by title deeds to land in and around English and Irish cove. A rather remarkable reaction when it is remembered that the Marquis de Ray's total knowledge of New Ireland came from his reading of ships' journals. In 1879, 150 people sailed from Holland aboard the the ship Chandernagore to be dumped ashore at their Utopia where only the scenery fulfilled their impossible dreams. There was nothing else. Needless to say the venture failed after a misery of starvation and disease although a start was made in building jetties and houses. None of these tragic reminders of Marquis de Ray's confidence trick remain today. He by the way spent 6 years in jail for his part in the fraud."
When we went ashore we did see some evidence of a low stone wall bordering the beach. Bill read somewhere that a ship full of bricks was delivered here but because it was abandoned a business woman from Rabaul grabbed it all and built herself a mansion which was to become famous for the elite to have parties drinking champagne etc...
11 Dec
> > I am standing in the sweltering heat in my bikini at the chart table
> > typing this. the satellite connection was non existent a moment ago
> > but has come back in. I wonder how many satellites are buzzing around
> > out there? Never mind i love them as i can communicate from the wilds
> > of PNG. After 3 days of motoring in calm seas and occasional lightening
> > and storms in the distance we have arrived at the bottom tip of New
> > Ireland at a place called Irish Cove. I'm glad we didn't come in the
> > night relying on the electronic chart as it would have had us sitting
> > on the land. Some areas around PNG haven't been charted very well we
> > were warned. We will write to c-Maps and tell them of the .3 mile
> > discrepency. It feels like deep jungle here. Tall hills with
> > rainforest and coconut palms. The little bay we are in is still and
> > deep. A couple of guys in canoes went past at first not that
> > interested in us waved and said they were off for a bath. I think it
> > is a waterhole not far from the boat which we will row over to once we
> > are rested. About 4 guys in canoes stopped by for a quiet chat. It is
> > SO HOT and steamy!! They said there are crocodiles here. I can
> > imagine it as there are mangroves and a little creek running off this
> > bay. Eventually one of the fellows asked for matches which we gave
> > him. Then he plucked up the courage to ask for a magazine. I only
> > have a few womens magazines left. I gave him a glossy Madison. He
> > giggled when seeing the gorgeous blonde on the front. They left soon
> > after. I imagine the underwear ads will get a good look in!
> > Tomorrow we will head accross the channel to Putt Putt bay (New
> > Britain) then the day after Rabaul. We need to go to Rabaul for fuel
> > and maybe a bit of civilisation.(and beer!) The volano has wiped out a
> > lot of what Rabaul was famous for (beautiful well appointed harbour) so
> > we don't know what to expect. As we were not originally planning on
> > going there we have absolutely no information except a mention of being
> > able to anchor near the yacht club (I wonder if it was rebuilt?) If
> > you can find out anything about Rabaul today we would appreciate it.
> > We'll be fine if you can't and we will definitely arrive in the day
> > time watching the sounder. This morning just before we arrived here we
> > witnessed a magnificent sunrise. Next thing a huge pod of dolphins
> > came over and swam/dived/jumped around in the bow wave of the boat.
> > Beautiful - i made a movie. After 3 dyas and nights at sea we could definitely smell the land
> > - a mixture of earth and vegetation and campfires. Also a sulphur smell
> > (volcanoes)
> > The sweat is getting to me - I have put wet washers in the ice box to
> > provide a little relief.
> > It feels a bit like the wilds of the Amazon here - pit helmet and khaki!!

11 December 2007
It is really lovely here - beautiful protected bay and were pleasantly surprised when we went ashore to find a little rock pool the size of Paul's spa with icey cold fresh water. Glorious! There is no village here either. Some people go past occasionally in canoes and don't really bother us. Bill also rowed us down a little creek beautifully shady (no crocs) and again -cool fresh water. We are very tired after 3 nights of not much sleep so we are having a lazy afternoon reading and resting.
It's going to take us longer than we expected to get to the northern part of PNG - Kavieng - New Ireland before making our longest ocean crossing yet to Palau. It is important for us to stay in Kavieng for the right weather. We are almost out of the cyclone belt (phew!) - only 4degrees south of the equator.
It will be interesting to see Rabaul - re the volcanic eruption form years ago. It wont be as peaceful as here and we will have to be a lot more security conscious - yay for the Dick smith alarm!!
It's weird not to have seen any other boats or tourists so far and only 2 other white people at Samarai. (except for the boat load of tourists from a distance)
There's no-one around here except locals. One of the guys we spoke to this morning did say that other Aussie and American yachts had anchored here. It is on the way from the Solomon Islands....
Sorry if you are bombarded with emails. Every day seems like a week to us as lots happens - so different to a week of should I say it - (w.o.r.k)
I have a feeling we'll be having christmas in the middle of the ocean on the way to Palau. I have bought kerstkrunts ingredients and will buy some treats before we go.

10 Dec

It's a bit hot and boring out here. No wind again. Motor is droning (se attached) thank god for Heath - the little autopilot strapped to the wind vane. We wouldn't have been able to hand steer for so long.....
We're reading books and just watched a movie. Another night at sea by the look of it - that's when the exciting light show starts (female crew doesn't like lightening) and we will probably get a bit of wind blowing from different directions....maybe..
current position: 5.50.96 S 152.07.439 E There's 8 km of sea under us!

> > 9 December 7am
> > Position: 7.47.4 S 152.11.5 E (getting a bit closer to the equator!)
> > We are in the middle of the Solomon Sea - no wind, no land, blue skies,
> > soft white clouds, just the engine droning. Last night there were a
> > few storms about with lightening flashing from 3 different directions.
> > We had an uneventful night - no ships this time. We decided to do 2
> > hour shifts - both a bit tired. The beeping of our little alarm every
> > 20 minutes when on watch (we dozed/catnapped between) is torturous at
> > times...One thing I love seeing at 2am or there abouts is the big star
> > to the east that reflects on the water like the moon. Also the
> > phosphorescence is magical to watch going past the boat. At least we
> > have a rest from visitors out at sea!! Although a sea bird did circle
> > the mast a couple of times hoping to rest on top for the night.
> > Thankfully it didn't because the wind instrument up there was damaged
> > by a bird once before and I don't want to hoist Bill up the mast out
> > here to repair it. I've just put the coffee machine on but I think the
> > captain has gone back to sleep. Just before sunset last night I saw a pod of dolphins
> > jumping in sequence
> > parallel to the boat. Their silhouettes looked just like the typical
> > image of a dolphin jumping mid air.
> > We enjoyed our 2nd meal of lobster last night. Might have to put the
> > lure out - see if we catch anything to day.We still have heaps of fruit
> > and veg. Does anyone out there have a recipe for pawpaw salad? (maybe
> > using it green??)
> > The last lot of bananas we traded are a bit strange - maybe they are
> > cooking ones too.
We are down to the last half doz stubbies. Have plenty of wine but beer is better in the heat. W e should be able to get some beer in Kavieng or maybe Rabaul if we stop there....