Rogeia Pata Bay, near Samarai Island 4 December 2007

Position 10.38S 150.39 E

What an amazing day! Not just because it is my 50th birthday but because we are so happy to be here experiencing all that we are. Still anchored at Samarai with our yellow flag up, we were beginning to feel like part of the surroundings after more than 3 days! We actually saw Felix the customs officer arrive back from his 'compassionate leave' yesterday late afternoon. He arrived by speed boat accompanied by many sacks and bags carried off the boat by numerous children after being in Moresby for several weeks. Earlier yesterday we spoke to Justina his wife who described him as short with a beard so we recognized him when he arrived and he even waved to us, (the only yacht in the harbour conspicuous enough with our yellow flag still up.) Being late in the day he was caught up with family so we resigned ourselves to a morning visit to customs. It was so hot when we got up this morning I immediately put on my bikini to have a dip off the ladder at the back at the boat. I discovered this to be the best way to cool down.

We hadn't cleared up after breakfast yet and just as I re-entered the cabin after my dip I heard Bill say "Customs!") I said "Wait! I have to get dressed!" Women cover up their thighs and tummies here so I hastily put on a dress over my wet swimmers. Bill had been cooking a chocolate cake for my birthday so the cabin was unbearably hot with the oven on. There was not a breath of fresh air when Felix arrived. He chose to do the paperwork in the cabin whilst we were dripping with sweat. I ineffectually waved a hat to try and create a breeze. It was the untidiest the cabin had been in ages - dishes, clothes everywhere, unmade bed and Bill didn't have a shirt on. On our previous unsuccessful trips to customs he had put on a buttoned shirt. Nevertheless Felix was calm, respectful, shy and called us Captain and Madam. We paid 200 kina each for clearance and 50 kina quarantine. (a little more than we had heard). He wasn't worried about what we had on board in relation to alcohol and foodstuff. We explained all the fruit we bought had been at the market. As were really not supposed to go ashore he just nodded. I think he was just anxious to get the paper work done and leave. As Bill rowed him ashore he said 'You can take the yellow flag down now". Felix said the previous year 40 yachts came through but this year 20. I guess his workload has been reduced somewhat but we were pleased we were keeping him in a job!

After receiving lots of birthday messages and phoning Vashti & Caylan on the sat phone we cleaned up and went ashore to give the clothes and photos I'd promised and a bit more shopping at the market.. Bill left me in the sweltering heat at the little market while he went off to get diesel. I made my way towards the little hospital and ended up stopping at the school on the way. I spoke to some kids as well as their very young teacher Georgina (with her baby) as they were cleaning up around the place for the end of year. I gave them a few books and fished out a little outfit for Georgina's baby. I looked at the student list and noticed a girls name 'Yolinda'. I said my sister is Yolanda and I'm Linda - what a co-incidence! Teenage girls here are quite shy and embarrassed by the smallest things and Yolinda didn't feel comfortable being the centre of attention. I left soon and began to walk towards the hospital.

Along the way I bumped into David the Reources Officer we met the first day. He walked with me to the hospital and he told me many things about his life including his previous 'defacto ' marriage and 9 year old son he never sees. At the hospital I wandered past the Labour/Maternity ward and saw 2 young women and 2 tiny babies in their cribs. I gave them the baby clothes I had which I think they liked but seemed a bit shy about accepting. The photos of the kids I gave David to distribute. We went back past his house where I met his wife, sister and all the kids. I showed them photos and movies on my camera of our family in Townsville as well as our boat arriving at sunset into PNG. Even though PNG people are curious to some extent of our life I think they are quite happy with their lot. And why wouldn't they? They have everything they need , the land and sea is bountiful and they don't have to worry about where they live.

My biggest acquisition today was lobster! Talking to David's offsider about getting some lobster (crayfish) for dinner for my birthday he said he would get me some. He sent a boy off with my last 25kina and came back with 12 lobster tails! (A$12.50) I was quite pleased with this when I got back to the wharf to wait for Bill outside the Pearling office. The big Australian guy was there and I asked if we could buy some pearls. I said it was my 50th birthday and my husband hadn't bought me a present!!! Unfortunately he said he couldn't sell me any. As I was waiting on the bench a little boy came by. He said he had a pearl and held out a tiny one to me. He said he'd found it outside. I paid him 1 kina for it so now I have my pearl!!!!

After lunch we motored off across the bay to where we are now. During the afternoon many canoes came by selling/trading fruit, veges, woven baskets and shell necklaces. Bill did not have to move far to go shopping for me!!!! He was very impressed with the lobster tails and proceeded to marinate them in lime juice, garlic and herbs. Just as he was doing this another canoe came by offering more fresh lobster! We had to say no !! After a feast of grilled lobster, fresh cucumber ,cold champagne followed by mud cake we felt fully satisfied. It was the best birthday anyone could have. The stars are out. We can see camp fires on the beach and some occasional singing. We are indeed in paradise.

The People and Beetle nut and coconuts
5 December 2007

The people here are so nice and 'pushy' would be the last word to describe them. The first person who visited us in his canoe yesterday was a young man. He greeted us quietly and complimented the boat. Everyone seems in awe of it - especially when we say how many years it took to build and refurbish. In each instance when we meet someone we notice the red stains around their teeth and some cases the teeth literally ground to stumps from chewing beetlenut. I feel it is a shame because it detracts from the attractiveness of these people. Nearly everyone has red teeth - beautiful young women, older men, even Felix the customs man and his wife. The only people who didn't seem to be afflicted by beetlenut stains were David the Resource Officer and when I met his wife she had a lovely smile with white teeth. Even the school children chew beetlenut. I noticed on the classroom school rules that chewing beetlenut in class was forbidden. The beautiful young teacher also had red teeth and gums. For us it can be disconcerting. Yesterday we lost count how many canoes came by. After the young man there was a talkative grandfather. We traded baby clothes, books and some money for shell necklaces and hand woven baskets. Many shy children came by (with instructions from their parents I suspect) with coconuts, pineapples, chillies, little white fruit etc. We love the way the coconuts are prepared for drinking the juice. The outer skin is cut off except for a small area around the top with the vine like branch left on for carrying. When ready to drink the juice (to alleviate the 'big sun' as one man said) the top part is cut off and the little holes speared with a knife. The juice is delicious! Needless to say we traded for a few of these. Pity we didn't bring any rum to make pina coladas!

It's so nice to be here and we feel we are under a spell. A gentle breeze blowing over our faces as we woke this morning and fresh fruit salad for breakfast. We will be sailing about 20 miles today before we plan the next big leg of the journey.