The Tale of Two Shadows

31 October 2016 | Guanajuato, MX
02 February 2016 | Guanajuato, Mexico
29 September 2015 | Guanajuato, Mexico
29 June 2015 | Guanajuato, Mexico
16 May 2015 | Guanajuato, Mexico
05 May 2015 | Guanajuato, Mexico
24 March 2015 | La Paz, MX
15 March 2015 | La Cruz, MX
22 January 2015 | La Cruz, MX
29 November 2014 | La Paz, MX
12 October 2014 | La Paz, MX
20 September 2014 | La Paz, MX
14 September 2014 | La Paz, MX
04 August 2014 | La Paz, MX
31 July 2014 | La Paz, MX
24 June 2014 | La Paz, MX
24 May 2014 | La Paz, MX
14 April 2014 | Mazatlan
22 March 2014 | Mazatlán
06 February 2014 | La Cruz anchorage

Hola from La Paz

24 June 2014 | La Paz, MX
Vanessa
Home alone. Ron left on Saturday morning to travel back to Colorado to visit his Mom and family members for the next week, leaving me and the cats, lying around like melted butter. Yes, it is hot and just going to be getting hotter here in La Paz. We haven’t even hit the really hot months yet, which I believe are July through mid-September, but it has been hovering around 100° for days now, and that appears to be the plan for the next week or so. Luckily we are at a marina that has a couple of pools and a beach, although we haven’t taken advantage of the beach yet. They have warning signs about the stingrays that inhabit the area, encouraging you to shuffle your feet when entering the waters, to warn the little beasties, I guess. It seems stingrays here are the color of the sand and it is easy to step on one if you don’t watch it.

I have to be in “take-it-easy” mode while Ron is gone, as I have injured myself. Yes, this month’s blog should actually be titled, “How We Spent Our Summer Vacation Injuring Ourselves and Visiting La Paz Medical Facilities and Farmacias.” Without medical insurance. Actually, we are lucky in many ways, to be able to afford the excellent and financially reasonable care we have received. But let’s not jump the gun, and no, no guns were involved in any of our medical calamaties…

Ron and I were visiting friends on Saturday, May 24th, and to make a long story short, he fell down some rocks/small boulders when leaving their dock. (Our gate key didn’t work, so we climbed over a railing to cross some rocks and go around the locked gate. I made it, but the first rock Ron stepped on tumbled out from under him and he went right down with it, almost into the water. He hit several rocks on the way. I helped him back up and we hobbled back to the boat, which was probably a quarter of a mile away and across a sandy beach). We didn't realize he was injured that badly until we had a doctor come to the boat two days later on Monday. You might recall from a previous posting, we have met a doctor here who does “boat visits.” Ron had been in pain and had some problems breathing, and kept saying he felt a “clicking,” as if a rib had become dislocated, but he didn’t think it was more than that. Ron asked the doctor to push his ribs back in place. She listened first to his lungs and felt his chest and said immediately, you need x-rays. You have air bubbles in your chest. Thank goodness she didn't do what he asked of her. She sent us in for x-rays and we were told he had 4 broken ribs and a punctured lung! He was sent right to the hospital from there, where another doctor was waiting with a wheelchair as soon as we got out of the cab. (Our boat-visit doctor kept in touch with us and the doctors she sent us to by phone, coordinating everything. She was a gem and didn’t charge us anything for this care.) The doctor with whom she had arranged for us to meet at the hospital wheeled Ron away, while I filled out some paperwork and when I got to his room, the doctor introduced himself and another doctor. They then proceeded to operate on Ron in his hospital room - in my presence! They put a tube into his lung to expand it, and then to drain blood and air out of his chest cavity. He spent two nights and three days in the hospital. All in all it was a good experience, although there were certainly some surprises and challenges, having come from the U.S. system of medical care.

Thoughts on Medical Care in La Paz
The hospital was a small, older hospital, which doesn’t necessarily cater to American or Canadian tourists, so there were more locals there, and supposedly it is less costly than the newer institutions. It also meant the care was more personal, kind and more humane overall; even to me, when I was so shaken up checking in. The woman at the front desk told me not to “worry. Everything will be ho-kay.” (in her broken English). They didn't pester me with financial questions AT ALL. They gave me two remote controllers and told me Ron was in room 8. I was confused and asked what I was to do with the remotes. “Are you going to call me on these, or what?” Shows how clearly I was thinking. She slowly explained "No, this one is for the television… This one is for the air-conditioning…" Duh. Guess I was kind of out of it... Ron and I hadn't realized how injured he was, and how dangerous it was. This was all on top of me coming back from caring for my dear friend Steve for a week and then him dying; the same evening Ron injured himself.

Most of the nurses and nurses aides spoke no English, but the primary doc and "chief nurse" did, as did one or two of the administrative staff. So trying to explain to the nurses what Ron needed with our limited Spanish became a challenge. It certainly forced me to start carrying my English/Spanish phrase book everywhere with me. After the initial 24 hours Ron needed to go to the bathroom, but was constipated from the pain meds. Nor could he get up due to the chest tube. (Sorry Ron, TMI??) We stated “no baño,” showing them his extended stomach, and finally they said, "Oh, no poopie?" It was rather funny – if you weren’t Ron, that is. His doctors were also amazed that he could have gone for three days with a collapsed lung and broken ribs, and kept saying he was “Strong like Bull.” They were very available and communicative, unlike what we have known to be the case in the U.S.

Another interesting aspect was the “hospital cafeteria.” It turned out to be a little café next door, where I went to get some lunch, but also discovered that they prepared meals there for the patients. My lunch was 75 pesos - including three chicken tostadas and a bottled water. That comes to about $5.78 US dollars. They had a daily special where you got a good soup, rice, entree, desert and drink for 105 pesos. $8.10 U.S. for more than you can eat, but not obnoxiously so. It was a cute little place with cloth tablecloths, napkins, flowers on the tables, colorful bright paintings and place settings. The staff sort of brought you out what they thought you should have in some cases, rather than what you planned to order, like giving me a bowl of vegetable soup the first time I went in.

I had been nervous about the cost of his hospitalization, with “emergency surgery,” since we don’t have any health insurance down here yet. (I have since been investigating it, although it might end up costing us more than actual medical care each year, even with events like this one). His total cost for the three days at the hospital, including doctors was about $2,370 US. Not bad; probably the cost of a day in a U.S. hospital, not counting the doctors. I also got a 10% discount on the hospital bill with my Sam's Club card! Weird.

Another difficulty of being on our/my own in another country is having to take taxis everywhere. I had to take a taxi back and forth to the hospital to visit Ron, which was on the other side of town. So I would end up negotiating with the driver – improving my Spanish (!), to find the best deal. It took me a while to become comfortable with that, although in general, the drivers have been very helpful and kind. In fact we have found a couple we stick with. One of them has very limited English so he brings his friend who speaks better English, and if his friend is unavailable, he calls him on his cell phone (yes they can do this in Mexico while driving) and hands the phone to me to help translate any questions or to let me know what is going on. One day I asked him if he had had a busy day, but I apparently used the incorrect word and he called his friend, handed me the phone and the friend said, "He wants to know what you ask him."

The other driver, who is the all-time-best-taxi-driver-in-La-Paz is Elias. He has repeatedly refused tips at times, handing me back money when he thinks I have given him too much and even bought Ron and I some bottled water the other day when we were running around town visiting farmacia’s (pharmacies). He waits for us when we have to make stops and is always so gracious. I told him he was sweet the other day (for getting us water) and I clearly used the wrong word, as he did not respond until I looked up the work for “kind.” I probably called him a pastry or something before.

My Own Medical Stuff! Again...
I twisted my knee somehow and ended up injuring it again, despite the success of the cortisone shot I received in PV, back in February. I talked to our boat doctor, as we refer to her now, and she researched a good, economical place in La Paz. She made an appointment for me and told me that I needed to call the Doctora once I was in the cab, and to hand the phone to the cab driver, and he would get the directions to her clinic. Ok... Not the US norm, certainly. So I called once I got to the Cathedral in the center of town, where all the taxis hang out. The driver spoke to the Doctora and off we went. We ended up going to the outer area of town, to dry pale dirt roads and dusty houses and cars. At one point Ron said, what have we gotten ourselves into? Even the taxi driver wasn't so sure. But we found the Clinica, which turned out to be a "Sports Med Clinic," behind an iron fence. The waiting room was packed!

I met with the bilingual doctora and she spent an hour assessing my knee and decided it was my IT band, not the actual knee. I brought along my x-rays (from February), and really, would you do this in the US? She looked at them, felt my knee and leg, manipulating them this way and that, and said she would not give me a cortisone shot, but put me through a physical therapy regimen, for the next 7 days, giving me electrical stimulation, hot and cold compresses, and ultrasound treatment. When I asked about the cost, she said, “oh, very reasonable, 170 pesos for about an hour.” Well, that comes to about $13 U.S. per session. By the way, the sessions lasted about 2 hours minimum, not one hour. I had the same physical therapist each day, who spoke no English, but we were able to communicate as I brought my Spanish-English dictionary each day. By the end of my treatment there I had discovered that she has 3 children, the oldest being 30, and she is only 42. Yes, do the math. She also works two jobs, one as a physical therapist from 8-6, then 7-10pm as a massage therapist in a spa. She gets no days off. She said having a child at age 12 is not "normal" in Mexico, and that she works hard because she is a single woman, helping her 30 year-old son go to medical school.

After a couple of weeks of physical therapy, which also now included muscle strengthening exercises, I noticed one evening that my left leg below the knee had become swollen, like a sausage. Eewww. Ron and I were off again to Fidepaz, the hospital he had gone to with his broken ribs. They did an ultrasound and found out that I have Baker’s cysts containing bits of cartilage floating around inside. Not 1, but 3, probably due to torn meniscus. So I am to undergo an operation once Ron is back, to have them drained, removed? And to repair the meniscus. Ron and I swear that we have had more medical issues in the past 7 months than we have ever had in our lives. Either it is our age, or our lifestyle, or I guess a combination of both. Yuck. At least we are alive, and have these kinds of things to worry about – I know, it could be a lot worse.

So we are safe and sound, tucked into Costabaja Marina in La Paz. We will be here for the next few months, to wait out hurricane season. We hope to make some excursions out to the islands in the Sea of Cortez, but come back here if we get notice of any concerning weather systems approaching Baja Sur. We will probably be in the La Paz area until mid-October or so when we have to return to Mazatlán for our next step in our visa process. By that time we will have been in Mexico for a year - October 28th!. So that is it for now. Hasta la Vista!



Comments
Vessel Name: Two Shadows
Vessel Make/Model: Morgan 462 Ketch
Hailing Port: San Francisco
Crew: Vanessa Kelly & Ron Chapel
About:
We have been living aboard for 14+ years in San Francisco Bay, but we are now preparing for an extended voyage in 2013 - to anywhere warmer than here! Our "crew" also consists of our two cats, Jackson and Samantha, a brother and sister pair of mutts we rescued from the SPCA about 4 years ago. [...]
Extra: Now living inland in Mexico and loving tierra firma again. Never regretted our sailing life though!
Two Shadows's Photos - Main
Local scenes, dogs, construction projects, architecture and gardens!
79 Photos
Created 30 October 2016
Photos from hikes, picnics, adventures, exploring this State and City of Guanajuato, Mexico
42 Photos
Created 2 February 2016
Photos of our house, before and in the transition, and of our marriage vow renewal ceremony.
45 Photos
Created 29 September 2015
Archeological site, tequila factory, and additional views of Guanajuato. Sorry, but many photos are out of order. They changed the system on me!
70 Photos
Created 29 June 2015
Various shots of the beautiful enchanting town, as well as a few of the rental house in which we are staying.
61 Photos
Created 16 May 2015
34 Photos
Created 16 May 2015
An assortment of photos from La Paz (Dia de los Muertos left-overs), crossing the sea again, La Cruz, Sayulita, and general life on the water!
81 Photos
Created 15 March 2015
Shots of town, people, rain, pets and the boat.
16 Photos
Created 12 October 2014
Various photos of sites about town - La Paz style
52 Photos
Created 28 September 2014
Photos around and after the Hurricane
17 Photos
Created 21 September 2014
This is prior to Hurricane Odile, or Odie, as we are referring to it.
6 Photos
Created 14 September 2014
Piedras y Pajaros is the name of this Stones and Birds Park. I love this little place, right in the middle of a block of small stores, tiny restaurants, and boarded up or fenced off properties.
10 Photos
Created 4 August 2014
Self-explanatory!
21 Photos
Created 31 July 2014
Photos town, the marina, and visiting local hospitals...
33 Photos
Created 24 June 2014
Shots from La Paz
20 Photos
Created 25 May 2014
"Officially" entering the Sea of Cortez, and photos of La Paz
118 Photos
Created 24 May 2014
More Mazatlan photos, pics of friends, and of my Birthday dinner and ride through town.
49 Photos
Created 14 April 2014
Shots at Stone Island, which is where we anchored after our 33 hour sail, before heading into a Mazatlan marina. We also have some older shots of the beautiful town of Mazatlan
66 Photos
Created 22 March 2014
Photos from our travels around Banderas Bay in February and March of 2014
74 Photos
Created 22 March 2014
Scenes around the small town of La Cruz and the larger town of PV
48 Photos
Created 5 February 2014
Banderas Bay, La Cruz and Puerto Vallarta
17 Photos
Created 16 January 2014
Exploring the town of San Blas, taking a Jungle tour, and sailing to Banderas Bay
113 Photos
Created 15 January 2014
Additional photos of beautiful Mazatlan, including a nature preserve
48 Photos
Created 12 January 2014
Exploring Mazatlán with visiting friends and on our own. Many were taken with my cell phone, so please forgive me for the quality!
60 Photos
Created 11 December 2013
Leaving Cabo San Lucas for the small town of San Jose and on to the remote bay of Los Frailes
35 Photos
Created 25 November 2013
From Santa Maria Bay to Cabo San Lucas
32 Photos
Created 14 November 2013
Further adventures down the Baja Peninsula
47 Photos
Created 12 November 2013
This includes photos from the pre-sail events through the first leg to Turtle Bay Mexico.
54 Photos
Created 10 November 2013
18 Photos
Created 21 October 2013
Newport beach shots
8 Photos
Created 3 October 2013
46 Photos
Created 23 September 2013
San Luis Obispo, rounding Point Conception, Santa Barbara and on to Oxnard, CA
33 Photos
Created 15 September 2013
Photos of the trip south to Morro Bay, and a few of the scenes here.
30 Photos
Created 5 September 2013
12 Photos
Created 29 August 2013
11 Photos
Created 24 August 2013
Leaving Sausalito, out the Gate to Half Moon Bay
18 Photos
Created 17 August 2013
14 Photos
Created 9 July 2013
2 Photos
Created 25 December 2012
Due to our old refrigeration failure, we were forced to remove and replace the refrigeration which, as they say on a boat, led to a complete remodel.
20 Photos
Created 16 December 2012
12 Photos
Created 15 December 2012