05/27/2008, Purple Space Monkey, Placencia, Belize
Well I had this long blog written on my computer complete with photos and left the boat withouth my computer bag. Crap. I'll post it later. Tomorrow morning I'm headed out towards Livingston, Guatemala and the Rio Dulce. The plan is to read to Seal Cay for a snorkel around and then to Cabo Tres Puntas for a little cruiser party and anchor for the night. Then its on to Livingston the next day. There are many boats heading up that way.
Placencia has been a fantastic place. But it's time to move on.
HEA
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05/23/2008, Placencia, Belize
Today makes day two of our stay in Placencia, a lovely little seaside village on a narrow peninsula off the mainland of southern Belize. Survey says that the top ranking adjective most commonly used to describe this little town is "laid back" followed closely by "sleepy" then "lots of bars with funny names". There's the "Purple Space Monkey", the "Tipsy Tuna" the "Pickled Parrott" (notice a theme here?) and the most famous drink would be the "Pantirippa" (think about it). Have not tried the Pantirippa yet. I'll let you know.
Tonight is Friday, a big night in Placencia and I'm told by Stephie, a pretty French backpacker type selling handmade jewelry along the boardwalk (which is by the way cement) that if I go to a place called "The Driftwood" that I will see Garifuna dancing the likes of which I have most assuredly never ever in my life before seen. She opened her eyes very wide and then quickly shut them tight as an animated emphasis to her point.
Then she knitted her brow and said "Wat ees dis word "dreeftwood" ? My eengleesh ....ehhh.... not so good."
I say "it's a piece of wood...... you know wood, right?" and rapped a knuckle on the table top. She nods and I continue ".........that, you know, floated up on the beach...." and mimicked with my hand a little piece of wood floating up on the beach.
"Oh!" she says "you mean like sheep explode..." and she makes a big explosion noise complete with hand gestures simulating the explosion and the pieces-parts raining down then floating up on the beach and looks up nodding hopefully and says "Yes?"
"Well.....not really.....sheep??" I say.
"Huh?" she says.
"Sheep........why would sheep explode?" I say. I looked puzzled.
"Ahhhh.....I dunno.....maybe....... de petrol tank catch fire?...." with a shrug.
"I wasn't aware that sheep had a gas tank" "Is that just French sheep or is that sheep everywhere? I mean, I admit I don't know all that much about sheep, but I thought they ran on meadow grass or something...."
"NOOOO...... not sheep...... SHEEP!
Then I got the eye-roll. With the French it's less apparently than 30 minutes. Damn the Franc. At length I bought some homemade French backpacker jewelry I'll never wear.
I'll agree that Placencia is indeed "laid back" and quite a pleasant contrast to the much more touristy San Pedro, the student-ghetto atmosphere of Cay Caulker and the urban jungle of Belize City. I like it here very much. And there is a cruiser population here in the anchorage intermixed with the big catamarans of the Moorings charter base located here.
Jason and I have just spent a full week exploring the offshore atolls of Turneffe and Lighthouse Reef. These are the best and most beautiful that Belize has to offer. We went spear fishing and snorkeling along miles of pristine reef and out at Lighthouse even had the benefit of mooring balls to make the nights more stress-free. There was a sheer wall face nearly right under the boat were the reef dropped down into the abyss much further than I could see. Too bad we had no tanks. The wind died down while we were out there which is a bit of a double edged sword as the heat and the bugs can find you then. We walked ashore on Long Key at Lighthouse and promptly met a woman who, when she goes back to the States lives in my hometown of Fairhope and works at the local Rite Aid. Small world, huh?
Jason has been a pleasure to have aboard. He's picking up the sailing stuff pretty quick and certainly enjoys the diving and the whole experience. Jason is a pretty smart guy, currently getting a degree in Biology at UNC Asheville and is a well-spring of scientific information. It's been great having him on board and having a good mind to talk to. I knew we would get along the first night when while sitting at the bar having a Belikin or twelve the following verbal exchange took place:
Jason: "Well...... waddya think?"
Me: "I gave up thinking back in January"
Jason: "Oh..............(and with a nod)...good thinking......""
I don't know yet how much longer he'll be aboard, he wants to do some diving and perhaps inland travel here in Belize and I'll probably be heading south soon.
So Placencia is essentially my last stop before clearing out of Belize and heading for Guatemala. I've met some cruisers here from Houston and they have confirmed the stunning nature of the experience of heading up the Rio Dulce for the first time. I've had my fill of beaches and clear water...... as beautiful as they are. I'm ready for a little jungle cruise adventure.
HEA
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05/16/2008, Cucumber Beach Marina, Belize City
Jason made it in yesterday and this morning we are headed back out to the reefs. If we can make good time we will go out to Turneffe and get inside the reef and see whats happening out there for a day or two. Its about 35 miles out to Turneffe mostly against the relentless trade winds but we will probably be able to angle off and get some sailing in. If not we will hole up behind on of the many keys lining the barrier reef and wait for a good time to cross to Turneffe.
I will probably be away from an internet connection for a week or so so don't look for much from me until we get back to the mainland.
Off we go into the clear blue yonder.
HEA
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