11/15/2010, Portobello
Saturday 13th November , 2010
Our last stop in the San Blas was the islands of Chichime. We spent a few days exploring the snorkel sites and met up with friends that were in Coco Banderos with us. There was also a small bar on the island but this one we didn't visit, wonder of wonders!. There was a yellow trimaran anchored close to us though, that obviously partied hard of an evening and decided it would be fun to let loose with a few flares in the anchorage.... not up, but through the boats. One missed our bow by a very close margin. Needless to say that there were a few of us cruisers who did not think this behavior was very professional.
We left Chichime on the 29th October destination Isla Linton. Mostly the trip went well until the afternoon when the seas chopped up a little with wind on the nose and making headway slowed so we decided to stop overnight in Green Turtle Bay, which turned out to be much smaller than anticipated and a roller coaster ride. Here we spent a sleepless night as it was very uncomfortable and we couldn't wait to get going in the morning. Upped anchor early and sailed to Isla Linton ( 30th ), a short trip. On the way we went through a squall which lasted quite a while, lots of rain and no visibility but fortunately the sun peeked out just as we were making our way to the entrance so the stress level evened out somewhat.
Isla Linton was a really lovely protected anchorage, nestled between the island and the mainland and with plenty of space. Isla Linton itself is uninhabited except for some monkeys which we hear are fairly tame but get a little upset when they see you leaving the island and could bite, so we decided we would just take photos from the dinghy. Rather safe than sorry! We are now on mainland Panama and the vegetation has changed to jungle. Most homes and villages are built on the waters edge and there is a road link to Colon by bus or taxi. We can hear howler monkeys and there is lots of wild life and bird life. Total contrast to the San Blas islands but a change is as good as a holiday, I guess.
On shore was a restaurant/bar, owned by Hans and a few afternoons were spent here playing Mexican Train dominoes or stopping for a few beers and a meal after a walkabout. We walked through the villages of Puerto Lindo and Garrote which are typical fishing villages with dogs, chickens, ducks and pigs. The population is now more West Indian and although Spanish is still spoken, English is heard a lot more. We visited Isla Grande ( next door island ) by dinghy and being Independence holidays in Panama found it very festive with everyone set to enjoy their BBQ and beach day . Even though the day started out rainy it cleared up and a good day was had by all the visitors. Unfortunately the weather turned nasty for a few days with swell entering the bay and having us boat bound and rolling. When we eventually decided to try a shore visit we had a right time trying to get off and then back into the dinghy later. However nothing much deters the four us from partaking of liquid refreshment. We sat in Han's place with some other brave, wet cruisers and enjoyed our beers while watching the waves break over into the restaurant area from a safe distance.
Tuesday 9th November was the day picked to make a run for Portobello as the sea was supposedly calming down but allow me to add that the swell was a good 8-10ft. We left at 10.45am and arrived in Portobello at 2.30pm, 11.5 nm trip and had a current of 2-2.5 knots against us. I will post pictures taken by Passat who were ahead of us. Very thankful to arrive in a calm anchorage and have a peaceful rest.
A lot more rain on this side of the world, seas not so calm and weather windows need to be picked before moving on. Still small villages built along the waters edge and the rest of the mainland with thick growth reminiscent of jungle. Very pretty though. Went into Sabanitas town yesterday on an old school bus (1 hours, local transport ) to check out the supermarket which was quite an exciting ride. The Reys supermarket was huge for us as we have been buying out of huts for the last few months..... but better is yet to come as we get to Colon area. There was a parade on the go as it was yet another holiday and after shopping ( 1.00pm )we came out to catch the bus back. While we were looking around a taxi person came to tell us we needed to catch a taxi back as the next bus to Portobello was at 6.30pm because of the holiday. This would cost us only $ 20.00 for the 5 of us. ( the bus was $ 1.30 each ) Needless to say, even though we were concerned, we were not trusting of the taxi man which was a good thing as a bus did indeed come along about 20 minutes later. Us "gringos" are such prime targets in this neck of the woods!
We have walked through the town, found a few Chinese supermarkets with the necessary supplies, stores selling tourist bits and pieces and have visited Capt. Jacks on the hill where there is wireless internet at $ 3.00 all day, and he runs a restaurant and bar. He is quite organized catering to the needs of cruisers. A visit to the San Jeronimo Fort was also very interesting ( There is another to be explored ). The Church of San Felipe de Portobello is home to the Black Christ of Portobello, a wooden statue of Jesus of Nazareth. Once a year the devout make a pilgrimage to the holy shrine, sometimes walking on their knees from as far away as Costa Rica to show their devotion. The Festival of the Black Christ is celebrated October 21st every year.
Our plan is to get a bus to Panama city next week and I will keep you updated.
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10/26/2010, West Lemmons
SAN BLAS 23rd September to 28th October 2010
These islands are picture postcard material. Islands covered in palm trees, white coral sand and beautiful clear waters with amazing coral reefs to snorkel. An abundance of fish, rays, and sharks. Home to the Kuna Indians who effectively control this quarter of Panama. They have preserved their tradition and culture for the most part except for a few villages, Nargana being an example. They are peaceful people and live life simply. The women row in their ulu's ( dugout canoes )to sell their molas, mostly hand sewn. A mola is part of the Kuna Yala women's traditional dress, a blouse with two reverse appliqued panels front and back. The panels have between two to five layers of cloth with different colours being cut away and embroidered to form the patterns. There were some excellent traditional designs and also some more modern designs catering to the tourists. Mostly Spanish spoken though the men often had a smattering of English, some having been educated and/or have worked in Panama city. The women on the islands all wore traditional dress with gold nose rings, gold earrings, headscarves, patterned wrapped skirts, arm and legs beads. I have bought quite a few.
And the men are out early in the morning fishing and then come past the boats to sell their catch. It seems that cell phones and computers are making their way in even though there is no electricity on the outer islands, thus many a cell phone has been brought to us in the morning to charge batteries.
Our time in Coco Banderos was spent snorkeling on the various reefs, happy hours on the beach around a big bonfire, night snorkeling for Vossie( I gave that one a miss due to shark feeding time.) and social evenings with friends. In fact knowing so many people in that anchorage we had a torrid social life.
A few trips in the dingy to Nargana ( 4 miles away )to top up fresh veg and beers when the weather was good and the supply boats from Columbia and Panama had come in. No supply boat equates to no veges. After 2 weeks of this hard life it was time to move on to Nargana for a few days to buy some diesel so we upped anchor and motored to Nargana and anchored near the end of the small runway which is serviced by Air Panama light aircraft. The small aircraft and boats is the only access between the cities and the islands as there are no roads into this area. It was also unfortunate that there was no garbage control here and the anchorage was the garbage dump which spoilt the scene a little. We did a trip up the Rio Diablo by dinghy. There was a constant stream of ulus going up the river to fetch fresh water or for families to go and have a fresh water swim. This was an interesting outing and you were transported from the sea into the jungle of the Panama mainland as you went further up the river.
Having got our much needed diesel we moved on to Green Island a few hours away. We had just anchored when an ulu arrived to sell some seafood. This ulu had a makeshift mast and sail and he got too close to our wind genny and next thing there was much shuddering at the back and we realized that his mast had touched the wind genny and snapped off one of the blades. Being unbalanced is what caused all the shuddering at the back of the boat. Repalcing this blade is going to be a problem. Not happy chappies on Talacam!!! There was a lot a cursing and sending them on their way. We are 4 boats travelling together at the moment and in sympathy no-one would buy their fish. Eventually they were sent back to us to deal with Vossie who managed to get a very good deal on their catch in repayment for the damage caused. Crab, lobster and a big fish from the grouper family. Spent the rest of the day cleaning and preparing all this food. Another feast to be had by all.
The snorkeling was not really that good here but we did explore and swim and it was pretty.
13th October we moved onto the East Hollandaise Cays to the "swimming pool" anchorage. Anchored in 10 foot of water, 4-5 ft under the keel. Totally protected by reef and islands this was a calm, beautiful anchorage with crystal water and aptly named. Sitting on the side of the boat you could see the starfish on the bottom and the rays and fish swimming past. Many reefs to snorkel on. We did a lot a trips in the dingy to find the reefs to snorkel on and to have a look at the wreck of a yacht up on the reef. It was during one of these snorkel trips that we spotted our first shark sleeping on the bottom under a coral head. Granted it was a nurse shark , a large one, but nevertheless there was a lot a back peddling to put some distance between it and us. The snorkeling was really great here! Sundowner time every evening had us in the cockpit watching the rays and fish leaping out of the water . What a magnificent sight!
On rainy days we spent time playing cards or Mexican train dominoes....great fun. And I also let Vossie loose with the graders to cut my hair as it was getting too long. Well now it is short, very short!! No problemo.....it will grow again.
19th October we moved onto the East Lemmon Cays and spent 2 nights. Took the dingy to check out the West Lemmon's anchorage and found a small beach bar with internet so no guessing as to where we are going next. Soonest!! Only excitement here was Passat catching a nurse shark at about one in the morning as he had a fish hanging on a hook at the back of the boat for night fishing. Debbie took a photo so will hopefully post that pic when we have a better connection. Just before leaving we bought another good sized grouper ( $10.00 ) and veges and coke from the vege boat that came around. Well stocked again we lifted anchor and onto West Lemmon Cays. Tricky entrance, less than a foot under the keel in some places and Vossie up front pointing to coral heads. Eventually anchored after some kind yachtie showed us the last channel to enter safely and anchor. All of the anchorages entail reef dodging but I suppose good practice for the Pacific.
Good snorkeling here and of course the bar and internet. Almost back to civilization. This last Sunday gathered at the bar to play Mexican train again, got home late but great fun had by all. Monday we put the 18hp motor on for a dingy trip to Porvenir, about 3 miles away, to check in and out of the San Blas and into Panama. Cost of this paperwork was $ 263.50 and no .50 cents change so effectively $ 264.00, the main cost being for the one year cruising permit for Panama. After this session No cold beers to drown one's sorrows as it is now prohibited to sell beer in San Blas, however rum and whisky seem to be no problem. Very odd reasoning by the Congresso who are the law in this area. But for those of you who know us well, we always have the ever present little cooler with our stock for the journey. Just as we arrived back to the anchorage an arriving boat went hard aground on a sand bank and no amount of maneuvering could get it off, even with the help of many yachties in their dingys . They eventually got off some 24 hours later after some Kuna boys dug a trench for them and the tide rose enough.
Tomorrow we move to Chichime where we will spend 2 nights and then say goodbye to San Blas and move to explore the islands on the Panama side.
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Wayne and Susan sv daydream, www.daydream.ca
10/26/2010, San Blas
CARTEGENA TO SAN BLAS
We left Cartegena on the 11th September bound for Cholon. After entering through a narrow, shallow entrance we found that the anchorage was large, protected and quite lovely. It wasn't too long before the boat vendors started coming by with jewellery, lobster and fish and seldom take no for an answer. In all fairness though, once you accepted something they kind of left you alone.
Happy hour was on an old shrimping boat called "Manatee". Getting on board was up a ladder on the side of the boat, climb over the side ( no ladylike moves in this exercise ) onto the big deck where we all gathered with other cruisers in the anchorage bringing our books for exchange at the same time.
The water here was cleaner than Cartegena but still not good enough for snorkeling but we took some walks through old plantations and explored . A trip in the dinghy to Baru, the closest village, took us through narrow channels in the mangroves which was quite spectacular. Naturally we have to find a store that has cold refreshments and then wandered the dirt roads between the homes and did some people watching. We spent a week here waiting for our friend Carolina who had gone to Bogota to do some business. On her return we had a birthday celebration for her eldest son, Xavier, who turned 16. We had a braai and plenty of Aguadente. Good stuff!
We left Cholon on the 19th September for the island of Rosario ( still Columbian waters ), a short trip and anchored on the south side. Minor mishap on the rocks when entering but went onto anchor only to be told this was not a safe anchorage overnight if bad weather came so.... up anchor off to the north side which turned out to be a far better anchorage. Lovely clear water. Bought lobster which were bigger than what we had seen in Cholon. Had a good night and the next day walked across the island to visit the bird park. Entry was free as this is the pet project of a gentleman who funds this himself and whose aim is to have every species of bird in his park. This was truly amazing and his collection at this point is unbelievable. We spent a few hours here. The place is obviously very well organized with a kitchen for the different meals required by the different species and a medical room to treat sick birds. A very interesting outing and highly recommended for anyone visiting Rosario.
21st September we set off for the San Blas, destination Coco Banderos Cays, 181nm. The weather was good, seas flat but that generally means little wind and so motored most of the way. After 2 nights out we were in sight of the islands and very excited to see the island paradise much talked about.
Vossie caught a big tuna and called ahead to friends we had met in Curacao who were already in anchorage, telling them to have the BBQ fire on the island ready to go as there was going to be a fish braai. Even after all the boats in the anchorage shared this fish we still had plenty left over to turn into fish cakes!
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CARTAGENA 1ST TO 10TH SEPTEMBER
Our time in Cartagena, Columbia has been very enjoyable, although short. We are desperately trying to brush up on the Spanish as communication is important in a foreign country and as Debbie says, we feel a little intimidated by not being able to speak fluently. I suspect that by the end of our trip thru this area we will be talking like locals.
We are anchored off Club Nautico, which is undergoing construction, in the suburb of Manga. The water is muddy brown and encourages healthy barnacle growth. Lots of floating debris and floating grass islands. We have had to get our hull and propeller cleaned before departing after only 10 days in the anchorage!
The highlight in Cartagena is, in my opinion, the Old walled City, known as Centro. It is European Spanish beautiful and the photos I post will give a better idea. Narrow streets, overhanging balconies decorated with trailing plants and bougainvillas. The architecture is stunning , very romantic and eye catching with the earthy colours mixed in with the bright blues, orange and reds. Solid large old wooden doors with smaller doors inset. Old churches, sculptures ( by El Gordo ) and many Plazas and parks dotted around the old city where everyone hangs out in the shade.
Street vendors selling everything from fresh fruit beautifully presented in little cups to virtually anything you can think of. Also many boutiques both international and Columbian selling leather goods, artifacts and emeralds and more emeralds ( very expensive ).
On one of our walks through the old City the men were approached by a suave gent who was offering an unbelievable rate of exchange pesos for dollars. Very tempted the men begin to negotiate, although warily. This went on for some time and eventually the money began to change hands, again with everyone watching carefully. Just as the dollars were going to be handed over, Vossie caught the slight of hand trick and snatched back his $ 100 dollar note, whereupon the trickster turned on his heels and hot footed down one of the streets having been caught out. A small crowd had gathered during all of this and all were warning not to have anything to do with these banditos ( would have been more helpful before the fact ). Well, lesson learnt and we were ready the next time .
We visited 2 very interesting museums in the Old City. The Museum of the Spanish Inquisition being the first one. The priests of the Catholic church invented very simple, deadly and efficient machines of torture to inflict pain and thus get the required confessions. Undoubtedly there were many sinners and guilty people in this period of history. For example, there was a list of questions being asked during the torture session to determine if one was a witch, which undoubtedly one was, after days, if not weeks of torture . Unbelievably barbaric customs and one must consider that this was only about two hundred years ago.
The second was the Gold Museum which was very interesting. The history of the various groups of peoples which populated Columbia and their skills in the manufacturing of gold jewellery and other adornment for the rich and powerful and in the agricultural field, managing the irrigation of the fertile growing region when the yearly flooding of the rivers would otherwise have caused devastation to the area. The history is too much for me to elaborate on here in this blog but would make for very interesting research.
Food is really a good deal here. The typical local meal " la corriente or sopa y seco" consists of a good bowl of soup, a fruit juice and a plate of rice, beans, veg, salad and either a piece of meat ( carne ), chicken ( pollo) or fish ( pesca ) The cost of this hearty meal ranges between $4.00 to $6.00 depending on the restaurant.
We have been using the taxis here quite often and at a very reasonable rate, typically 5000 pesos, about $3.00. There are also motor bikes taking one passenger or a bicycle with a 2 wheeled cart behind ( similar to our rickshaw guys in SA). Everyone needs to make a living.
In conclusion, a very vibrant and colourful city and we are happy with our decision to have spent some time here.
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09/04/2010
ARUBA TO CARTAGENA 26th August 2010
We left Oranjestad at first light 6.00am to Monjes Del Sur 54 nm away which is a Coast Guard station. The guys are sent here for a year at a time and their supplies come in by boat. This rock ( and rock is all it is ) is part of Venezuela and the thought was to rest overnight as the rest of the journey to Cartagena is a 3 plus overnighter. Boats tie onto a rope which has been added from the old dock across the small bay to rocks on the other side. After achieving this feat with the help of Bob, we relaxed. A very pleasant young man came to check us in and only Spanish is spoken. Later we had Bob and Debbie over to enjoy the small tuna on the braai that Bob had caught on the trip and an early night for a planned for an early departure the next morning. At about 00.45 hours a squall came over and Vossie got up to check if all was ok, which it was. At 4.00am we were woken with a bang and rushed outside realizing that we must be on the rocks, which we were. We had obviously slipped along the rope when the wind shifted and had been pushed to the rocks. Vossie used the boat hook to push the bow off and to pull ourselves forward to release the boat line from the rope and in reversing, the keel once again hit underwater rocks. Now really worried as to what damage has occurred and whether there might be a hole in the boat, we alerted Bob and Debbie on Passat with lots of nervous shouting . We picked up a rope from Passat and hung off her stern until first light.
Having picked up the stern line, there was enough time to check the bilges and other compartments for any leaks . Thank goodness, nothing spotted. First light brought MORE problems. A big thunderstorm approaching. Counted the seconds, eight miles away. What is happening now? The wind is shifting again and Talacam, hanging off the back of Passat is being pushed towards the dock. Stern now very vulnerable but also, Passat is being pulled parallel with the ROPE and into very shallow water.
Lots and lots of different maneuver's later, Vossie managed to climb off the stern and onto the dock where he managed to secure first a stern line and then a line off the bow. Lightning bolts now very close 2 seconds later thunder. Passat gave a floating line off her stern and Vosssie managed to get it around a bollard and Bob was able to winch himself off the rope into a more favourable position. Lightning and thunder now virtually instantaneous. It is right on top of us, pouring rain with Vossie out there on the dock. Terrible surging on the dock, first one line then the second spring line breaks. This is not a good situation to be in. Pop goes one of the bigger mooring buoys. Man, this is really a lot of hassle.
To cut a longer story short, we were eventually successful in getting off the dock and tied back onto the rope "properly" this time at about 11.30. Consensus reached, we are GETTING THE HELL OUT OF HERE now, before more drama hits the fan. 12.30 Bob released from the rope and Vossie released Passat from Talacam and we followed suite seconds later. Another very good lesson learned...
In complete contrast to the early morning squally weather we motored out of Monjes del Sur into flat seas with no wind. This continued for the next two nights and days with us alternately motoring and motor sailing in light winds. Saw dolphins and a sight of Bonnitas jumping to feed off the surface on what we presume to be insects being washed out with the flow from the Rio Magdalena, as we have an invasion of them on Talacam, even though we are about 20 miles off shore. The water has turned from blue to green as we get closer to land.
SUNDAY 29th AUGUST
We approach the 3rd night out surrounded by gathering dark clouds and what promises to be a squally night. Vossie goes down to rest, very briefly, as the lightening lights up the sea for brief moments and he is called up to keep me company as this is not my forte. Wind picks up and the autopilot stalls, 360 degree turn and mad scramble before we get her back on track again. We suspect that this band of squalls are the same that Passat had to deal with a short while later, but being further ahead of us they were in the thick of it. There was no rest this night as the waves grew monstrous and the squalls kept coming bringing strong winds. We were obviously in the area where the river and the sea converge and it is renowned for rough seas when the wind is up. In hindsight we would have been better off another 20 miles out, but you live and learn. With me huddled in the corner of the cockpit hanging on for dear life, Vossie and Talacam dealt very well with the buffeting we were getting.
MONDAY 30th
The dawn brings slightly quieter seas as we try to make our way further out to sea to avoid the floating debris coming down the river. This turned out not to be as bad as we were expecting, although there was a fair amount of floating plant life and wood. We had a good sail and thought to make Cartagena by the end of the day. Unfortunately the wind again drops and with the current against us on our last leg we decide to motor to try and make landfall. Beautiful day and Vossie catches a nice size barracuda.the first fish caught since we started sailing. We ran out of daylight on approaching the city of Cartagena and came in on GPS alone in the pitch dark and with the city lights as a back drop, making one totally blind when approaching the entrance. We came through the small entrance successfully and made our way slowly to the anchorage, slowly because again the city lights make it very difficult to pick up the navigation lights in an unknown harbour. We are very proud of ourselves for getting this right even though it was nerve wracking at the time. Anchoring turned out to be a bit frustrating as we were tired and the anchor would not set properly. Eventually put our heads down at 3.30am. In the morning we had to scramble awake to re-anchor again, as we were drifting around and got too close to Pacific Bliss. This encounter resulted in a light kiss but fortunately no big damage. We are properly anchored now and hopefully it remains that way as the squalls bring 30-35knot winds from the south when they come through.
We have cleared in with our agent at a cost of 150,000 pesos ( US$82.50 ) allowing us 10 days to explore Cartagena. Decision has also been made to take haul Talacam in the Manzanillo Marina to fix our waterline and check for any damage caused by our encounter with the rocks.
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09/04/2010
CURACAO TO ARUBA 23rd August 2010
We left at first light on Monday morning in good weather, winds not to strong. Made good time to Aruba ( 57 nm away ) even though the swell picked up considerably and George ( our autopilot ) tried very hard to keep us on course every time our stern was swept sideways in the 6-8 ft swells coming from the sides. As per normal no trip can be without incident. This one turning out to be a worrying one.
About 15 miles from our waypoint we decided to start the motor to try and stabilize the boat and charge the batteries. She started well and ran for about 15 minutes and then promptly died. It sounded like a fuel problem so Vossie went down and changed the filters thinking this might be connected to the bio diesel problem we had previously. However that did not work. Much talk between Passat and Talacam trying to resolve the problem and in the process flattening the start battery, but all to no avail. It was decided that Passat would wait for us close to the entrance of Oranjestad and tow us in, after obtaining special permission to do so as clearing in needs to be done at Barcadera which has no anchorage facility.
We were also boarded by the coast guard who were very friendly and efficient and who took our details and took swabs in various areas of Talacam for illicit substances. These were taken back to the Coast Guard cutter, which was standing by, for analysis. After the tests coming back clear, the guys left and returned to the Coast Guard cutter wishing us well.
Once we were in the lee of Aruba the seas flattened and we were sailing along at a good 6-7 knots and picked up our tow line from Passat and taken to anchor. We immediately had to report to Immigration at Barcadera, who were waiting for us. So a quick transfer to Passat who came alongside Talacam and Vossie and I had to hop over while Bob did a slow pass. Too many first times in this trip for me!
Anyway we were given 48 hours ( because of the visa requirement ) to fix our problem and to report back if more time was needed. When we went to checkout we found out that this situation was not true as we are a St Maarten registered boat with a St Maarten address and therefore would have been able to stay in Aruba longer if we wanted to.
Vossie got to work first thing this morning and managed to trace the problem . There was no fuel coming from the day tank as air had got into the line. Firstly got the generator working ( which also died this morning ) and then the main engine. All of us very relieved that it was not a major problem to solve so we can continue on our way.
Spent the rest of the day walking the beach area of Oranjestad and after some roties and beer for lunch went for a swim at the Renaissance hotel pool and then we made our way back to the boat.
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